Yarome

Exactly! I "do" buy components direct. Ie., I recently needed 3 step-up converters so I bought 8 direct for $12. In the U.S. they would cost me $5 a pop. I order 8 because I need at least 3 out of the bunch that will perform to specs to "break even". Odds are in my favor. It's quite possible that 1 or 2 may be DOA... another 2 or 3 may not perform to spec, but I only need 3. Any above and beyond that is "gravy". I gambled and I lucked out. No DOA's! 2 performed below specs and ended up in the trash, tested out the 6 remaining... "all good"... so I took the 3 I needed, built out the 3 "extra's" and sold them cheap to fellow SKP's. I "cleared" a barley pop out of the whole deal so everybody wins! There was that chance that I wouldn't have received them at all or that they would have been entirely different items than I actually ordered (although my odds were good since it's a company I've used several times before). It was 12 bucks that I was fully prepared to lose with "0" remorse. Apply that same philosophy to 100watt panels? Yeah... no. Too rich for my blood.

Just be aware that buying direct leaves you holding the bag on returns/replacement shipping costs which is generally "considerable". Also, if asked to present a receipt for warranty work, it may not be honored by distributors/service centers within the U.S. Ie., You order a 100watt panel. You don't receive what you ordered, it does not perform to specifications, is damaged or DOA. Shipping may be "free" from China to a U.S. seaport but sending it back for a refund/replacement/repair may see you spending $200+ to ship back an $89 panel... that may take 4-12 weeks to get there with no reliable in country (China) ground tracking so they are on their honor to acknowledge receipt. It's also important to be aware that some international companies are fully aware of those facts and may take advantage of end user customers. Ie., knowingly shipping a defective product or something entirely different than what you ordered. Buying direct isn't any kind of new revelation. There are reasons why more people aren't doing it above or beyond purchasing "component" level or other relatively low cost items. Be aware of the risks and potential levels of exposure, but ultimately it's your dime & your choice.

I'll add... for the "techie's"... the more accurate way to get to AH capacity of a wet cell is RC x .4167 (assuming a standard 25a 80degrees spec), but in smaller batteries it doesn't make much difference. Ie., 58.25ah's vs. 58.34ah in this case. Just sayin' before someone points out, "that's not how you do it!".

Not at all! Specs on the 24DC 12V are listed with a reserve capacity of 140 minutes @ a discharge rate of 25amps. Quick and dirty math.... 140min/60min = 2.33hours. 2.33hrs@25amps = 58.25ah's capacity.

First step would really be to measure out the battery compartment to see what will actually fit in there. A group-24 is going to be a about an 11x7x9.5 battery, but odds are... it will hold something bigger.

The 24DC 12v is a hybrid marine/deep cycle (vs. true deep cycle) battery with... if I remember correctly... ~60ah capacity. Typically, any battery that has a CCA rating on it is going to be a starter or hybrid. Let me double check..... Yup. 58ah capacity (140min@25a). Any wet cell battery shouldn't be discharged below 50%SOC in order to maintain optimal battery health. That's not to say that you "can't" draw them down more than that. If you're just looking for a single 1-year "trasher" battery then, really, anything goes. I would still try and get something with a higher capacity (or 2 lower capacity batteries)... basically... buy as many ah's you can for your dollar and then don't worry about SOC's. The main thing being to charge them immediately after use and not "leave" them severely depleted. Bang for your buck-wise... it's not a great value, but if the bucks are limited it's perfectly fine to get whatever you can afford and keeps you rolling, right!? Ie., 2x $73 60ah DC24's ($146 total) would get you ~120ah (60ah@50%). Alternatively, 2x $90 6v GC true deep cycles ($180) would get you 220ah's (110ah@50%). So... for $40 more you nearly double your ah capacity and get a longer term battery. The flip side.... you can't run a single $90 6v battery by itself and if you only have $70 in your budget it's moot anyway. You buy whatever will keep the lights on.

Many of us have entirely different definitions of "bang for your buck". If you've never had experience with sourcing items directly from China, my only advice would be to not spend more than you're willing to "eat" (time and money)... graciously, and without putting yourself into a financial hardship. Other than that I'll keep my mouth shut. Your $... your choice and wish you luck. I hope it works for you.

.... I take it back then.

Lou brings up an excellent point. There is no industry standard of measurement or generator ratings. They are set by the mfg. so comparing generators on lables and rated output alone is no clear picture of how one will actually perform. Ie., a genset may be labelled as a 2000watt, but reading the fine print, that may only be a max surge output for 90seconds or less. Sustained may only be 1300. Other 2000watt units may have sustained max surge for 1.5+ hours and sustained at 1800watts. Be sure of what you're actually paying for.

Installing a seperate charger does not necessarily make it a given that you will see improved charge performance. What is being discussed as a "charger" is quite vague and makes it impossible to determine what is actually being represented as a "proper charger". What it boils down to is "which" converter/charger is currently installed in your rig. In a 21' trailer where space is premium, many may choose to upgrade their existing converter to improve charge performance... and... sized appropriately for optimal charging (and health) of their battery bank. In newer year rigs... the installed converter may be more than adequate. One additional factor is if or not an inverter is going to be in use. In that case.. and moving to solar, a combination charger/inverter unit may be a better choice. But this thread is on portable generators. As Kirk said... having a converter capable of "proper" output is just as critcal as the generator that feeds it. When determining generator size you need to consider what your energy demands will be. Charging batteries only? So.. turning off your reefer, all lights, fans, TV, water pump, etc while you sit charging? I'm being sarcastic to illustrate the point that your converter/charger's maximum output to your battery bank is not your only consideration. Do you have any "heavier" loads you wish to power with your generator? An electric space heater, microwave, coffee pot, toaster oven, etc? Things that could operate off battery via an inverter, but makes more sense to run off a genset when able (and often while charging is taking place). Also as Kirk mentioned... many boondocker/dry campers will look at a 1500-2000watt generator as a minimum. A common practice is to kick over the genset in the morning to handle your heaviest loads while charging your batteries. Ie., running the electic coffee pot and toaster. Unless your needs are specific, LP may or may not be the best choice as your primary fuel. Unless you purchase a dual fuel unit, conversion can be quite costly. $300-$500 into a conversion can buy a lot of fuel. As pointed out, it will reduce your generators rated output by approx. 15-20%. It also requires a LOT of LP to run a portable generator for the equivalent period of time as a genset on gas or diesel. Empty LP tanks are exponetionally heavier and more difficult to transport than plastic fuel storage cans. LP output is more greatly affected by temperature and elevation. While LP purchased in bulk and in local communities of often cheaper the gas or diesel, in "tourist" cooridors or in or around RV campgrounds, that may not always hold true. I'm not say that LP isn't a "bad" choice, just that there is more to the equation than just that it stores forever and burns cleaner. I would also X2 the suggestion to carefully review Mark Nemeth's "The 12V Side of Life" articles 1 and 2. That will give you a great foundation to build on in making these types of choices and as you move forward to expand your energy capabilities (solar).

Never said the long waiting list was due to demand greater than production. Maybe because they produce only a limited number and they often halt production for months at a time? From 2008 to 2009 they produced 42 units. In 2009-2010 production was halted due to the economy and only 3 of the larger (Elite II) units were produced. Unit #45 was the only unit sold with a production year in 2010 and the other 2 remained. By 2014 they were up to 50 units and after production "really" started to kick off... the last count I remember was in the later part of 2016 when they were up to 125 units produced. Getting the picture? That doesn't change the fact that, when they get around to it, they are great little units and they put a lot of attention in to detail.

Olivers are great little rigs! Very low maintanence and quite durable. I think the main reason folks have a tendancy to shy away from them are fairly small holding tanks, fairly low cargo capacity, no slide options, requires different skill sets (fiberglass) to perform modifications, initial cost... and as Ken said... quite a long waiting list. If one suits your needs as is though, and outside of some of the issues inherent to nearly all RV appliances and fixtures, I don't specifically recall hearing anyone that actually owns one have much bad to say about them.

It really "is" a personal preference issue and dependent, to some degree, on the type of camping and travel you plan on doing. Personally, I kind of worked my way backwards. I started with a class A and toad, went through a couple of 5ers trying to find a better "fit", and finally settled in on a 25' TT about 5 years ago. The best "fit" for my chosen lifestyle since I started out and couldn't be happier.

I agree with trailertraveler. You're spending habits won't change dramatically without concerted effort so looking at your current budget on expenditures you will be "taking with you" (ie., food, clothing, entertainment, etc.) should put you in the ballpark. I also agree that $2k/month is QUITE doable... with your "cushion" in place that is. $2k may not leave you with much of a savings budget on a monthly basis. A good full-timer strategy is to contribute a portion of their monthly in to a "maintanence/repair/replace/incidents" account. Since you already have that set aside you're one step ahead of the game. Being a solo, one suggestion I might offer is to go with a 4-down toad. Dolly's can be a PITA. Doable, but if it's at all avoidable....

I am sure it will shock some folks for "me", of all people, to advocate cast iron (), but in an RV where storage space is limited... you really can't go wrong. Induction, LP, barbeque grill, oven, campfire... It's a one for all and won't break the bank.

Yes, the Champion 3.4k genny does in fact use a Honda engine. What's important though is the subsuquent regulator and distribution panel and the full metal vs. plastic regulator gears and electronics that make the difference. Not exactly the same animal, but well suited within their specific portable generator class. The claim that the Champion service department is superior is quite subjective. They "may" be great at sending out repair parts for a DIY repair, however, their service departments and "off-shelf" parts are few and far between. That being said... they are great at sending out replacement parts.. however.. with a Honda, it isn't necessary to call in.. wait... etc. Everything is pretty much available "off the shelf" at most home improvement centers and service department saturation is leaps and bounds above. Just doing a general search. Champion authorized dealers (not specifially listed as service centers) within my current geographical location comes to all of 3 locations. Honda authorized, service center specific locations numbers at 15. You do the math. As far as output reading/stability, it's easy enough to quantify stable readings at set low consumptions. What the main differentials the price and quality classes though is the is the clean output at varying levels and transitions. I'm certainly not knocking the Champion genny's. They are absolutely top notch in their price class and certianly have a predominate place in the RV world. As appropriate to your specifc needs, especially for full timers.... If you think you're getting something for a fraction of the cost and pennys on the dollar... you should know better.

X2 and an ABSOLUTELY!

Without going with a true theft deterrent device I wouldn't invest too much in heavy chains/cables or locks. Just enough to deter the opportunistic thief if you feel it's necessary. Remember that their handles are plastic and can be cut through within moments. Personally, I think they are the most suseptible to theft when they are stored in bays. Bay locks are simple, the same keys are common among almost all RV manufacturers, most don't think to secure their portables with locks when stored and many folks leave their bays unlocked when parked. The thought being that it is less hassle to have insurance replace a stolen item than it is to have your home laid up in a repair shop to replace a damaged bay door or frame... that will never quite match back up with your rig. I tend to agree with that school of thought. That being said, not that it doesn't happen, but theft rates in the RV community are extremely low. IMHO, forking over a few extra bones for good insurance is money better spent over heafty deterrent devices.

True. Output will also depend on elevation (even on gasoline), but on LP you'll want to calculate your needs at 80% of rated output. On the 3.4k the sustained is 3100 watts on standard fuel. Even on LP you shouldn't have many issues running a 13.5k AirCon. By way of suggestions... the Champion is a decent genny in it's class and adequate for occassional use. For long term use or full-timers that regularly boondock/dry camp, you might consider going with a Honda or Yamaha. They are a bit more expensive, but as is generally the case.. you get what you pay for in terms of clean output, fuel consumption and reliability. Maintanence /repair and customer service are also factors you might consider. Champion's can be very challenging in that regard whereas a Honda or Yamaha can be readily serviced just about anywhere and maintenance parts are readily available "off the shelf". The Honda would be the leader in the service center department. Many folks, myself included, go the dual portable route. Ie., 2x 2000watt portables. That allows for more economical use of a single generator for charging batteries and such while still having the capability to run heavy loads (ie., AirCon) by running them both in parallel when needed. Not to mention that 2 singles are much easier to maneuver and store due to their lighter weight and size. Just food for thought.

Ain't THAT spiffy! I've never seen one of those. You'll have to do a full review once you get your java on.

Amen, sister!

I've looked at those from time to time. I've seen a lot of roadpro's in use and the power hunt is supposed to be one of the best single cup drippers (comes with battery cables as well) and puts out a cup in about 3 mintues. They take quite a bit of juice though. Probably not even close to what your house dripper pulls, but IIRC the roadpro runs at 15amps for 15min per 16oz pot of go juice. So... 3.75ah per pot. The power hunt runs at 25amps for 3min per 8oz cuppa. All in all it puts you ahead of the nuker or a S&B dripper and might work for a quickie no hassle cuppa, but I took a pass on them both. I dont' know about you and the Mrs., but a single hit 8oz cuppa just doesn't cut it for me. I figure if you're gonna make coffee MAKE coffee. My "go to" is a thermos vacuum insulated press. It'll make 34oz's and keeps it hot n'fresh for a good couple of hours so you can take your time of it. They really aren't that much work considering what you're getting out of it. Dump, rinse, repeat and if you don't want to grind your own beans a lot of grocery's that sell beans have grinders. I actually keep a little bag of store ground in the freezer for those times I'm just not feeling the grinder action. Be prepared though. The grocery grinders aren't always very consistent (aka. muddy coffee) and they get a lot of different types of beans put through them so the flavor can be a bit "off" from what you're actually buying. For short mornings and "on the go" I use this mug press. Most road side places have hot water available next to the coffee machines so you can just load your grounds, grab some free hot water and you're good to go. For cheap, convenient, energy efficient, on demand and not too choosy about your coffee... I think Reed has the right idea. Aeropress deal w/350 filters.

That makes better sense now. To start... I highly doubt you're getting actual acid spillage. More likely is just off gassing in an inadequately ventilated space. High temperatures or excessive charging can contribute to that, but regardless, AGM's "would" solve that issue completely. Good advice from Al. Before "sizing" a new battery bank it's a good idea to really determine what your requirements are. You mentioned the possibility of 4-6v. That's quite a lot of juice, weight, and cost that may be completely unecessary if they only see light overnight or point A to point B travel usage.

That's an extremely vague question. Many use 6V, 12v, flooded cells and AGM's. Some use lithium and most use multiple batteries. About the only "most common" denominator is to use true deep cycle batteries when installing wet cells (vs. starter or hybrid marine/RV batteries). It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish, your budget, size of your battery compartment, supporting equipment, energy requirements and how you plan to replace the energy used from your battery bank. In the most general terms, many find that 6V flooded wet cell golf cart batteries from Costco/Sam's club provide the best bang for your buck for semi to light usage. What is your intended usage and what exactly are you trying to determine ?

I've used Walmart before, but not in the past year or so. Maybe things have changed, but at the time I got soured when I discovered that much of what they offer is through 3rd-parties with no "global" return policy or "mediation". Walmart doesn't actually fulfill those orders. When my order was over 21 days after I was notified of shipment I tried contacting Walmart and was instructed that I would need to contact the seller directly. I did.. and eventually received my order... which was "wrong"! When trying to return it I was informed by Walmart that they could do nothing and to contact the seller. The seller stated that they have a 14-day return policy and my order had been originally shipped nearly 5 weeks prior. SOL I'm glad it wasn't a high ticket item, but it seemed to me, then, that Walmart was becoming more of a "poor mans" eBay dressed up to look like an "Amazon". If it's not a "walmart" product then the sellers set their own shipping and returns policies. Just checked now and it looks like it's still the same. "Items purchased from a Marketplace retailer cannot be returned to a Walmart store or to Walmart.com; they must be returned to their Marketplace Retailer in accordance with their returns policy. Please email the Marketplace retailer directly. Items purchased from dealers or resellers and not Walmart.com directly are not eligible for return, refund, or exchange" Kirk- Looks like the one you purchased is a "marketplace retailer". JLC Concepts LLC.