Yarome

The thing I really like with the 4021 (and that series) over the 4400 is the backlighting. That's definately a good price though. That's what I bought my 4021's for. Dunno why they would suddenly double in price, but if you're buying a 2 pack (@$25).. $12.50 a pop isn't that unreasonable.

Good choice. I keep an MS-4021B in the house and one in the TV. Good gauges. On edit: Looks like Amazon is doing $20 for 1 or $25 for 2. Not too shabby!

Sounds like you are WELL covered on the connection stint of things, but like Lenp, I would be a little concerned about your GFCI issue. I'm not sayin it is, but the main concern there is that you might have a "hot skin" issue that I would try to "discount" before you proceed. To test.. you'll need a non contact voltage detector. I you don't have one.. or know anyone who does... they can be had for $5-$10. To stress... you NEED to resolve your GFCI issue. If you do anything additional or not. Worse case.. I don't want to read a thread or see a link to a news report that our SKP DuneElliot was barefoot, stepped onto her 5er stairs and received an electrical shock that stopped her heart. Point taken? And as long as the barley pops are flowing... I gotta a dolla.

You didn't start it. And I agree.... that's one of those MUST share's.

And apologies to the OP for the hi-jack. Not even REMOTELY related.

Instead of taking the time to point out just how little the DYI'er knows, as others have done for you, why not return the favor and contribute something helpful to the OP and the community at large? Just sayin....

Honestly, I have no experience with RV model electric washers or dryers, but I have opened and repaired a few front loading residentials in my time. Basically, they are just drums on 4 lower rollers and a belt or gear driven motor... relying on gravity to hold them in position. (rediculously simple machines seeing how much they cost). Just by way of assumption... I would wonder if models deemed adequate for RV use might have lower AND upper rollers to better stabilize the drums and deemed more suitable for RV's? I would be interested in seeing their parts list to see if that holds true. With only lower rollers and the bouncing and jarring I give my rig, I wouldn't feel very comfortable travelling with any of the machines I've seen the guts of. Most of those drums are NONE too light and I could only imagine how rough it would be having that kind of weight bouncing up and down on only lower rollers. Just food for thought and completely out of my wheelhouse.

I was going to say... yeah... I don't think so buddy.. "300". You're panels were doing a bit of heavy lifting. You can see the aux draws from your mid to late morning. Looks real sharp! And I agree.. I don't think you'll have any issues if you can sustain a full charge day with that much traffic, this time of year, and a partially cloudy day. Day 2 must have been your "heavy" day hu? That was a lot of juice, there! I don't think you could get any happier with that.

I'm in the same boat as Al and run mine pretty much exactly the same. Not every other day, but on days when I have surplus free energy production, I'll run a batch for an hour or two, bag em, and toss them in the freezer. I'm never without these days. Granted... they aren't as good as ol "brick" style cubes, but when I haven't touched a shore power cord in months, or had to visit "civilization" in a couple it weeks, it still makes me chuckle to myself having a few clinkers in my drink. You learn to adapt with these hollow round cubes... drink faster!!

Personally... I would probably steer clear for the time being. What sends up a red flag for me is the fact that they only offer 1 battery and the other equipment they offer for sale is very much lower end. If the equipment they offer (chargers, inverters, controllers, etc.) are targeting that particular spectrum of the market then I would tend to think that their battery is also likely to have been manufactured to target the same segment. They may just be a fledgline company and this is just their initial lineup, but I would wait to see how they shake out. Digging a little deeper... They are selling a dragonfly energy battery. A company out of Reno, NV that is a fairly new startup less than a year old. They are partenered with Dynavolt (out of China) for manufacturing. Dragonfly was originally an R&D company. Their own claim to fame is in their "patented, environmentally friendly" manufacturing process that reduces manufacturing costs. Their focal demographic is selling OEM batteries "serving the marine and RV industries." Dynavolt... "...their first U.S. investment, gives them access to technology that is expected to lower their manufacturing costs." My opinion: Wait and see.

If you're in the market and looking for a decent deal, you might check out air-n-water's clearance section for the "scratch n dent's". I picked up a NewAir AL-100 from them a year or two ago. Never could find the "scratch" noted in the description and works like a champ. Looks like they have the same one I have for $124 (free shipping) and a couple of others right around hundred.

Your 3012 is going to drink around 28watts at idle.

True... but I think you're probably the only one that uses at PT-100 that I know of. That thing is a freaking monster.

Shut-off/disconnects, bus bar and neutral post (for convenience). 400a fuse is perfect.

Unless you need the auto gen start/stop feature.. a standard ME-RC-50 would do you. They run around $175-185. Small difference though overall. That's a really tough question. Price being equal.. I'm like any other techie.. I do love my toys. The GUI, programability and efficiency is really attractive. Being more modular friendly and dual AC outputs... not something I would ever take advantage of. But at some point I have to ask myself, "do I really need it?". Be it right or wrong I tend to hold the belief that with every bell and whistle comes another point of potention failure/conflict. I guess I also look at $500 for a REMOTE. That's steep for something I don't really use. Then there's the Magnum. I know it. It's a KISS (Keep it simple s*****) unit (IMHO). It's a dependable workhorse. I have more experience with their C.S., components and, all in all, has more than enough programability to fill my needs. I wouldn't necessarily say that it is more "reliable".. but a more "durable" transformer, then yes. If you use a decent EMS and surge protection then damage to the Victron transformer shouldn't be an issue. There IS that efficiency factor which draws me back to the Victron... Now that you made me think about it. I guess I would still choose the Magnum. Being a full-time boondocker.. something simple that I know and trust trumps a small margin of efficiency loss, the minute tweaking I could do and the coolness factor. That's simply based on my own situation, personal feelings and experience. If I had plans to expand my system then I would go with a Victron.

X2. Once your system is up and running.. how much are you really going to use that fancy GUI remote? I barely look at mine... OR my Tristar panel since most everything I need to know "system wide" comes off my Trimetric. I sure wish I had a fancy GUI display for THAT!

I don't want to get too deep into it, but either one is going to be a win. Performance, reliability, system integration, customer service... you won't be disappointed. The main differencences.. IMO, are cost, transformer core tech and programability. Pros on the Magnum: Transformer core is more robust. More in what I consider the "workhorse" category. Programability is "fair" in flexibility to meet most folks needs and is "user friendly" for those that may not be as tech/power savy. Pros on the Victron: Transformer core tech is more efficient, more module integration friendly, easier remote navigation and finer level of control over settings (although, might be a bit intimidating for the majority of end users.) Personally, I run a magnum. While the bump in efficiency is attractive.. and I "would" like a bit more control over my power settings, durability is more "key" to me. The remote and ability to integrate additional modules played no part in my decision making process, but may have more sway for others.

I think that is the only point of the testing. For those that like and use EVO.. cost does not always ensure quality. More a "know what you're paying for". Simple as that.

Yeah, well... when it comes to trying to keep a brother out of harms way (aka: wife with cold toes).. we got your back.

Sometimes the most obvious answers are the hardest to see. You owe Mark a few barley pops.

You might try connecting Red to R.. instead of B... and White to W. B is is generally reserved for a heat pump... but wouldn't be surprised if it didn't work since it's just making a "call" for "on".

You're going to want to get the wiring diagram for your furnace before anything else and trace back the 12v supply from the furnace to it's source (likely tied directly into your distribution panel). You'll need to run new control wiring to the new thermostat directly from/to the furnace. You should be able to follow the furnace installation guide as if it were a new installation... you'll just be routing it to the new thermostat. Eventually though.. you'll clip both the red and white wire (Y3 & Y4) from the AC control box, but I wouldn't do that until all of your ducks are in a row for the new thermostat or you'll be without heat until your mod is completed.

Exactly. Following Mark's suggestion would get you where you want to be.. and you already have the right Thermostat for the job so it's a pretty simple matter to just clip the wires leading out of the dometic control box and wire directly to your furnace. That would be my first choice.

THERE's a good idea!! K.I.S.S.

Evidently smarter than we are since you already figgered you canna do it. That's what I was afraid of. Yup.. not possible without a rewire. I've never done it, but it seems to me that you might be able to stick a 12v timer in-line of the furnace 12v supply. The thermostat can still call for heat, but if you kill the 12v feed to the furnace during programmed intervals then it would effectively kill the furnace from cycling. I can't think of any reason.. or harm.. that could be done. Something like this maybe?