mike5511

Everything after 2003 has EGR.

I have an old 610 too. My gauges leak. At $275 a pop, I have no plans to change them. As long as the compressor can keep up while driving, mine can just leak. It doesn't hurt a thing. The air compressor runs all the time anyway, so nothing is working harder than it should. You might get all your air leaks repaired, but it won't last long before you'll get more. It is what it is. I've driven all brands of trucks and the Volvos so seem to be the worst for air leaks. When overnighting, I throw a couple of white oak block under the rear bumper to keep the trailer more or less level for the night.

I'm hoping mine holds together. As much as I'd like a 13 speed, I don't want to spend the money.

My 98 is a 10 speed and I wish it was a 13 speed. We're the same age, and I agree 100%!

I think that is the one. My truck is a 98 with a Cummins motor. I've got all the gauges plus a Road Relay. I probably only need a simple code reader to check things every now and then.

There is place i sent mine to in Ozark, MO, that fixed all the cold solder joints and replaced all the lights. They said the LCD usually came back to life after they fixed them, but if it didn't, they had no access to parts. Mine lights up, but is blank. I think buying a aftermarket diagnostic/reader to use with a tablet would be the most cost effective way to "fix" it. A guy at the rally last year told me what to get, but I forgot he said!

I have 4500 lb winch. I ended up using a snatch block to slow it down. Works much better. My winch is on a bar similar to yours attached to the bumper. Just opposite of most. Nice work by the way!

Or.....you can trade instrument panels with me! Everything works except for than little LCD screen! Those codes won't bother you if you don't know they are there!😄

That is what I would need. My LCD readout on the left side of instrument cluster does not work. I had the cluster re-soldered and got all the gauges and lights working, but the little LCD readout is still dead. Need a little tablet and some kind of plug play scan thing. More research coming up. Ordered the DirecLink today!

I have the same disease! Been looking for a 'Y' adapter so I can plug the brake controller and a scanner/monitor in at the same time. So far, I've found every kind of configuration except what I need. I have the 6-pin plug.

My curiosity often slaughters the cat! But, at 66 years old, that ain't likely to change. lol Just talked to Tuson and without getting technical he explained that the module is necessary and the unit won't work without it. Pretty much what everybody said, but now I heard it from the horse's mouth so to speak. And no, I'm not from the "Show Me" state of Missouri, but I can see it from here! I appreciate everybody's input on this!!!

Okay, that is what I figured, but couldn't find any information on. If the 9 to 16 pin adapters work on other test equipment, and they do, I don't understand why it wouldn't for this. You say it won't work and I can't dispute that but I'd like to know why. I'm waiting on a return call from DirecLink, maybe they can answer my questions.

They sell a 9 or 6 pin to 16 pin adapter like on cars and what appears to come with the DirecLink for less than $20. My question is, why wouldn't that work? What does that little module (box) that comes with the adapter kit do? It must be necessary or why include it. Maybe it has some necessary electronic circuitry in it? $100+ is pretty outrageous for some wire and a couple of connectors. Link below is to a picture of the adapter kit I'm talking about. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tuson-RV-Brakes/335HDCON-9PIN-G500.html

Well its confusing. If you go on the Direct Link site they show some kind of little module or interface thing with the cable. I can't find out what that does or if it is even necessary??? Amazon has the best price. I'm wondering if customer support would be lacking if I didn't buy from one of their two recommended retailers?

Thanks for the responses!!! My decision has been made! I noticed you can buy the 9 pin to 16 pin adapters a whole lot cheaper than the cord Direct Link sells. Is there a good reason to spend the money on the higher priced cord?

My truck is a 98 Volvo. I was doing google searches tonight about the Direct Link and this thread popped up. I just ordered the Hayes last night to replace my Prodigy. Will the direct link work on the older trucks? I'm starting to think I should have just spent the extra and bought the Direct Link. Probably not too late to cancel my order.............

Hook the cables to the truck battery under the drivers door and suck it right up on the truck. Mine is a 2008.

Registered tonight. See ya in October!

😲 What have I got myself into! (Got spot reserved Friday and sent registration in!)

Who had the X-Aire at the rally?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-1-oz-Ox-Gard-Anti-Oxidant-Compound/4514334?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-lia-_-106-_-electricalaccessories-_-4514334-_-0&placeholder=null&&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=CjwKCAiAqJn9BRB0EiwAJ1Sztc4y8q1JZ6sETD0s3uugAxjg2Hr6UJKk-qa0s0yGvwOUT2VFAUF2EBoCDmgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

If I had been close enough to you, I'd of jumped at the chance just ride down the road in that Pete! It's been awhile.

Planning on coming. We might want to stay longer than the rally if they have space. Any advice on the best way to go about securing a reservation is appreciated.

I got an education about tires at the National HDT Rally this past week. Thank you Trey (rvsafety.com) for my education, and thank you L.D. for suggesting the idea. DISCLAIMER: Please disregard, ignore, etc, any comments of mine you have seen, or may see in the future, made by me in regard to tires, that were made prior to this date!!!👍 😄

Saw who started this thread and had to smile. His old truck is at the National Rally in Hutch. Met several here who knew him and his wife Valarie. The old 98 Volvo is still a good truck and doing us a fine job!