D&J

After we work camped for a few years we decided that if we ever thought about owning a RV park it would no longer be in our plans ever. Denny

First if I could get 500 to install a access valve I would come out of retirement. When he checked the temp differential did he do it at the return vent and the first outlet or did he take the time to check it at the units out at the blower. If it was at the first outlet then your unit is working properly. To double check go up on the roof and remove the cover then start the unit and give it a good 30 minutes to balance out. Go back on the roof and you will see 2 lines coming out of the compressor and see if the bigger line is sweeting, if it is feel it and it should be what I call beer can cold. Don't touch the other small line because it will be very hot. If it's not sweeting it's either short if gas or the compressor is bad. The thermostat and control box has nothing to do with how cold the air is coming off the coil, it just turns it off and on. Unless you have a freeze control that has failed it would turn the compressor off not the fan. They don't put access valves on RV ac units because it's a point to leak and these units use so little gas that putting a gage set on it just a few times would make the unit short of gas. It doesn't matter what gas it has in it all refrigeration works the same just at different pressures. Your unit has R410A and in my experience it takes longer to balance out over R12, R22, R 134A so give it sine time. I'm really afraid you may change the unit and still have the same problem. But it's your money. Denny

To truly check the output is to check the temp drop at the unit after it's been running for 20 minutes. Check temp at the return and at the output, there should be a 20 degree difference. Just my guess but you will find it's the ductwork causing your problem. An example would be 80 in 60 out, as the temp goes down in the RV the output temp will decrease. Sometimes the RV insulation is so bad that the temp will not come down. Denny

I tried it and if made no difference 😒 Denny

I will try that when we stop tomorrow for the night. Denny

Probably the most frustrating time we've had extended traveling was when we were down in Mexico for a month in the winter and my wife's uncle passed away and we had no good way of getting back to Nebraska in a timely manner. Denny

We don't have a Wally we had a 211K. If someone with a Wally I would like to know if it has updated. Denny

We just moved back into our trailer so we are using our X2 portable dish with a 211K receiver and it still wants to find 129 and of coarse it can so it won't finish it's setup unless I manually tell it view tv. That also means if the power gets interrupted when we are gone it will not automatically set itself up. Will a new Wally eliminate this problem or will I have to contact Winegard for updated software. Denny

After talking to Dish about their so called free upgrade they can keep it. If I can get a better deal on my programming I may get a Wally with WI-FI adapter. We use a standard dish 10 months out of the year anymore so was thinking of upgrading. If I can't get a deal we may just stream everything but locals. Denny

Thanks that's what I wanted to know. Denny

I don't want it to run the antenna that will be done with the 211K, I want to run it off the second output for a second receiver. The X2 has two outputs one is the main and the other for a second receive Denny

We presently use a 211K with our X2 portable dish, if I use our 211K as the main receiver will a Hopper work as the second receiver, I know we can only watch one sat at a time. Denny

Not that big a deal just fill it and drain it a couple of times then fill it with about 1/2 cup of bleach and water and let it set for a few hours before draining that. Fill it again with same bleach 1/2 cup and let it set overnight, run some of it into the system to kill what ever is in the lines. Drain everything and refill with just a little bleach to keep it sanitized. Denny

We installed a 10.1 Cu Ft Magic Chef last year and never looked back. When running it only draws 56 watts on our 2000 watt PSW inverter. Denny

Lithium may charge different off the truck than our AGM batteries and the voltage may be higher. Mine are always under a load from my refrigerator, chest freezer and disk brake actuator, if they are all off at the same time it may be higher adding charge to the batteries I'm not back there watching it, I just look at it after we stop. Flooded cells, AGM and lithium all have different charging and discharging characteristics and floating voltages. I haven't used a flooded cell battery in a trailer for 20 years so I have no idea how they would act but our AGMs stay up but not to full charge because of the load we put in them, if nothing was running I'm guessing they would come close to full charge but that's not going to happen, that's what the generator is for. We are only on our second set of Optima AGM batteries in 20 years so I'm happy with them, this set is 7 years old Denny

I don't know about GM but Fords 12V circuit is fused and with the voltage drop on our Ford the best I can get back to the trailer is 12.8 so that would regulate the current draw charging the Lithium batteries. I can't get a full charge in my AGM batteries because of voltage drop so I'm sure the Lithium would be the same, basically it just holds the voltage after it drops to 12.6 to 12.8. Denny

Yes it will but not to full charge because of the voltage difference between the to kinds of batteries. Denny

What we do because we travel with a residential frig and a small chest freezer is run a 2000 watt inverter and keep the batteries changed with the truck when driving. When dry camping for the night I plug our converter into a old 650 watt Honda generator so we have tv and satellite and charge the batteries. The little Honda works hard but it was free and still runs great and after the batteries topped off it just idles along. When we go to bed the chest freezer gets turned off and the frig runs all night on the batteries without any problems. If we were going to boondock we would eliminate the freezer and get a small solar panel. We are running two AGM Optima 75ah Blue top batteries and all the lights we use have been converted to LED. We also have a 5KW built-in generator that is very rarely used, when it is used it's for short periods. Denny

Interesting post 😊 before I retired from my Electric & Refrigeration HVAC business I had to hold a Class A Electrical Contractor license along with mutable certificates to stay in business. The most expensive one was my electrical license with the cost of the it, cost of continuing education, permit costs and the most expensive part was the insurance and bonding. I couldn't compete in most of the residential unless a new service was involved so I did mostly new house construction and commercial where the unlicensed people couldn't work. I also did mostly commercial and new home construction in the refrigeration and HVAC end. If you get prices from a non license and insured and one that's fully licensed and insured consider the overhead the the licensed professional has to deal with and I'm not just talking about the fees but the business insurance on a commercial vehicle compared to the personal truck the unlicensed person is driving isn't cheap. Every year I got audited by my insurance company to see how much liability I exposed them to and had my rates adjusted for that year and the next. When I first retired and started workcamping I made the mistake of telling them what I did and I got so tied of internet electricians at parks that I no longer said anything when applying, life's to short. I sold most of my equipment but keep enough to do my own work and maybe very close friends. I just installed a new inverter driven heat pump in our house and the duck work was pain without my sheet metal shop but I got it done. Wife asked if I missed it and I said no way. Denny

That is caused by loose neutrals in your panel, it starts with one then overheats all of them around it, it's a good idea because of road vibration to check all connections every few years. In all my years being a electrician sence 1969 I've seen it many times. Denny

Before everyone starts running around like there hair is on fire I took one of my levington rec apart and the contacts are not steel (non magnetic) and they have a tab hanging down on both sides to put pressure on the contacts when a plug is engaged. Mine is a contractor grade and maybe Levington makes a cheaper grade but they are comparing the highest grade Hubble to the lowest grade from the other brands. I will say I wouldn't buy one from a box store because if there is something cheap out there they will sell it, just look at the contacts and see if they are brass colored. Denny

Back when the Triton engines had a throttle cable they had a IAC valve (Idle Air Control) and when it went bad you had to step on the petal to get it to start but yours is drive by wire so I could be the throttle body or the TPS (throttle position sensor) not allowing air past to the butter fly when starting. Denny

When I installed our 10cu Magic Chef it was $329 at Home Depot then $250 for a pure sine wave inverter that also runs our chest freezer and entertainment center. A lot cheaper way to go. I just got online and check and it looks to me that the DC compressors are still 120v A/C compressor with are inverter mounted to it. Denny

Never heard of AGM batteries catching fire but lithium yes. We are on are second set of AGM Optima Blue tops, the first set lasted 13 years and this set is on their 7th year. Denny

We had a Dometic that leaked after 12 years so I replaced the cooling unit with a Amish unit at it craped out after 4.5 years. Replaced the whole refrigerator with a residential Magic Chef from Home Depot and haven't looked back. It runs going down the road off our inverter along with our chest freezer, the truck keeps the batteries up. When dry camped for the night if needed we plug the converter into our old 650 watt Honda. The batteries will run the refrig all night without any generator power, the refrigerator only pulls 56 Watts when running and it doesn't run all that much. When set up in Yuma for the winter our electric bill is $20 to $30 cheaper than the Dometic running on electric. Denny