D&J

I've seen the HH trailers that have been full body painted and they look great, because of our HH brand rallies I've seen the before and after. Mine still has standard sidewalls and they still look good after 14.5 years but I painted my decals on two years ago, I also waxed our trailer for the first time when it was one month old and when we are at our home base it is in a building. If I was to buy a new trailer it would be full body painted but that's not going to happen unless something happens to our Hitchhiker. Denny

I've tried to tell a good friend we've traveled with for years both by email, texts and phone how to check his unit out, of course he was told just to install the Surpco fix all start cap by all the DYI'ers. I finally had to give up because he knew nothing about how they worked and I didn't want him to get hurt. They still had their front ac so they got by until we meet up with them later that year, it took me 15 minutes to check his unit out and told him his compressor was grounded and we needed a new unit. He was all worried about what he was told by the DYI'ers how hard it wad to change the unit, after we got the parks backhoe to lift the unit on the roof it took 45 minutes and it was running. I'm just saying there are some things that should be left to people that know what they are doing for safety if nothing else. Denny

That's why I don't like contributing to this type of thread, I had my own electrical, refrigeration, HVAC buissness for years before I retired so I have real experience and just get tired of information that are just guesses or repeated information people have read on the internet. Here are some things I know for sure when it comes to troubleshooting this type of problem. 1 If you run a breaker over 80% of its rating for long periods of time it will trip on thermo overload, if you think this is a problem blow a fan on the breaker to cool it. 2 The compressor amp draw will vary depending on the temp of the air comming into the condenser, it is not a set figure, the hotter it is outside the higher the amp draw. If you have damage or blockage to air flow over the condensor you will get high compressor current draw. When checking the condensor you HAVE to remove the cover and look at the inside of the condenser, follow the air flow. If you have any doubt take a hose and flush it out, I made a lot of beer money with a little water and a hose. 3 A weak run capacitor will cause a high compressor run current, I always had a selection of caps in my truck so it was easy for me to check by changing caps. To actually check one it takes more eqipment than I had so swaping them out worked. 4 Any bad connection will cause resistance and the higher the temp the higher tbe resistance, more current draw. 5 Short of gas will cause compressor high current over time because the compressor uses the returning saturated gas to cool the compressor, if your unit has been running for 20 minutes the suction line (the bigger one) should be cool and sweating at the compressor, sweating if there is enough humidity. Don't touch the small discharge line because it will get a burn. If your unit is running very hot this will not work because the condenser is no longer condensing the gas back into a liquid. Lots of things to look at when trouble shooting any refigeration system, it was easy for me because I did it every day. Denny

I went with a Flow Jet variable speed pump 12 years ago and have had 0 problems with it, I can't remember the model number. The only time it makes a lot of noise is when something gets up against it. Denny