Randyretired

I have installed a few solar systems in RV's and assisted on a few others. In virtually every case peoples needs evolved. As they had power they thought of new uses for that power. I suggest that people install at least a little more than needed and think about expanding in the future. We have 1400ah @ 12v and use around 80% or more daily this time of year in the mountains heating with our mini split. Our 3,700 watts of solar need a clear sky all day to recharge. Charging with the generator at 100amps our inverter/charger takes forever. That is probably extreme for most but you get the idea. Watching the solar generate 200amps is impressive

We have been boondocking sort of on our mountain property all summer. We installed a septic system a couple of years ago and a well but we are off grid. Solar for power.

If all else fails there is Hughesnet and Viasat? sp. We currently have Hughesnet but hope to switch to Starlink. Hughesnet works but is slow and the delay is a pain. Just about every year the dish needs to be readjusted. $175

Solar and batteries are great but China is making the money. China makes around 80% of the solar panels. The US contributes around 3%. I love the technology but I hate sending money to China.

We lived in our RV over 2 years mostly in the garage as we finished our house. The garage was insulated but not heated. It was significantly warmer than outside. It had a dump but even with doors open it wasn't a fun time when we used it.

I think finding a well cared for truck with lower mileage is important. If a truck has been abused or not cared for it will often be a money pit. Finding the options you need are also important. Volvos drive nice and make a good hauler but parts can be expensive. Some others may meet your needs but I recommend you drive a few to see what you like. Still a quality cared for truck in good condition with the options you value would be my choice. Then check it over and over to look for problems. Problems cost money in these beasts.

I prefer to assemble the cells myself and add a BMS of my choice. It is nearly impossible to find cells not made in China. I haven't found any. There are significant differences in the cells available and some are just scams. Most of the cells available are batteries that don't pass the strict requirements for cars but function very well in a less demanding roll such as solar. Some of the new cells available have been tested to maintain 80% or better capacity over 6,000 cycles. I don't have anything bad to say about Battle Born. The batteries are proven to function well and the warranty is excellent but the price is very high. For my use I parallel prismatic cells to build higher amp hour batteries. I started with 200ah cells doubled to make a 400ah battery. I have 2 of those and just added a 608ah battery using 304ah cells. The company that provided my recent cells will match the cells for internal resistance and capacity for a little more and that made for a very well balanced battery. I have only purchased a limited number of cells from them so I am not ready to recommend them yet. Currently I am using JBD BMS,s. These are often relabeled as Overkill. However, the balance functions struggle to keep up with higher ah batteries and my future batteries will use JK BMS's. As you might guess the BMS's are also made in China. The US has a long way to go to compete with China on batteries. The elements such as lithium are available here but the mining and processing plants are only in the infant stage. Building plants to make the cells and batteries has began but I would guess these will use imported material for at least many years. At this point China is well ahead of the US and any other country. Just edited to add I hate sending money to China and dealing directly with them is an experience.

My HDT has 2 air lockers but it was originally ordered that way. It is a 2001 Volvo with a 42" cab. It was very difficult to find a truck with even one locker so when this one was available I grabbed it. I bought it used in 2005 and it has around 560,000 miles today. With 2 lockers it will get us out of a lot places but if the front axle buries it is over. Locking both axles makes the truck only want to go straight if the axles have significant weight. Turning can be a little tricky.

Registration in CO is a little easier than some places. My HDT is registered as a recreational truck and none of the MH items were required. They do send out a form annually stating that GVW over 55,000 requires some special taxes but I stay under that. Like all vehicles in CO plates are relatively expensive. My driveway always required my PU use 4x4 to back my 5er. I put a fairly heavy bed on the HDT and it will back the 5er into my garage without powering both axles. I had a single axle Freightliner before this Volvo without a bed and it was a struggle to back the 5er. Hitch weight makes a big difference. I have a small dump trailer that I can't load for hitch weight as the hydraulics can't lift it. Even with the heavy bed the HDT struggles with only one axle powered on steep gravel roads with just 21,000 pounds. Our HDT has air lockers on both axles when going gets really rough but that isn't needed often.

There are big differences in price. I received the first one last fall and my copay was $15. I still need the second one. Maybe this fall.

My DW and I were able to retire before 50 because her employer offered healthcare for life and pension. This was during a down sizing phase. Without that it would not have been possible. Her former employer stopped offering that just months after she retired. Healthcare today can ruin most budgets before Medicare. Even with Medicare most need to budget carefully.

I built a small motor home and wanted to be able to drain quickly so we could use it for ice fishing. To facilitate the drain lines and water lines we purchased all the plumbing parts and appliances before we built. This allowed us to be exact on the placements. All of the water lines, hotwater tank and fresh water were set to drain by gravity by opening 2 valves.

I don't know a better way to answer your question. Maybe someone else can.

I have also had problems with Goodyear tires. We had 2 year old 5er that had been weighed and was less than the maximum for the tires. On 1 trip all 4 tires separated from the tread. I kept the tires at maximum cold pressure. These separations caused considerable damage to the 5er. Discount Tire told me when we visited them about the problem Goodyear had a silent recall on those tires. I am not sure what that is. In any case Goodyear paid for the damage and prorated the tires. That was nice but changing tires along a busy highway isn't my idea of fun. We also had to scour small town tire stores for tires to continue home as each tire blew. I no longer buy Goodyear tires. We have used XPS Ribs for the last 20 years with only one flat. We replace these every 10 years and keep the 5er in the garage when not being used. Based on the recommendations of others I have decided to try Sailun tires.

A MPPT doesn't just charge a battery it has a float voltage that it will hold as long as the solar can support it. The float voltage should be set equal to or slightly above the rest voltage of fully charged lithium batteries. To high and the high voltage will damage the battery over time. To low and the battery will not be fully charged when the sun sets. For lead acid it is typical to set the float of a 12v battery to 13.2v. Lead acid rest voltage is around 12.8v but 13.2v is tolerated. The loads are supplied by the solar because the voltage is higher. My MPPT are set to charge to 14v (absorb) and hold that voltage for 60 minutes then float at 13.4v. The MPPT will hold that voltage as long as the solar can support it.

Glenn, I think you are correct in that the all in one can be set to use solar first. A separate system will tend to do that also if set correctly. As soon as the voltage drops a little the MPPT solar controller will attempt to keep a float voltage if there is enough solar to support it so the batteries remain charged. But how much this matters with lithium batteries is not a concern. The latest cells I purchased are rated for 6,000 cycles (fully charged and discharged). They say a 50% discharge is one half of a cycle and so on. Rarely will cycles be a limiting item. Age is more likely to limit a battery in our RV's. Also remember the cycle limit is rated at 80% capacity and there is still a lot of battery remaining at that point.

There are also many videos of LifeP04 batteries sustaining punctures without igniting. Some claim these are safer than lead acid but as you said these can burn if all things align. Another aspect is the total amount of energy stored. Most RV's that have lithium have larger battery banks and like in an EV that much energy is not without some risk. Most of these use a BMS which in most cases keeps the battery safe. Maybe safer than gasoline? However, the sensational stories of lithium batteries burning has some jurisdictions banning ANY lithium for solar in a house unless it meets a new testing criteria that most are not certified for. So we have these batteries in our EV's in our garage but can't have them in an attached garage for the house? We have them in our phones and laptops but not for the house.

Most, but not all of us are using the LifeP04 batteries that Chad referenced. The chemical make up is very stable and doesn't burn like typical lithium ion batteries. Like what is found in a cell phone. These aren't as energy dense, meaning a little heavier and slightly larger. EV's such as Tesla use both types. There are advantages to both but I only use LifeP04 as they are much safer. Unfortunately when people mention lithium batteries the fire problems are all mixed together. There are detailed articles and YouTube videos that discuss this in detail.

We have had Nationwide for more than 15 years. One time while talking with them I called out HDT a toter and they threatened to drop me. A toter was described by them as a HDT modified as a camper and an extended frame. I changed to call it a tow vehicle and sent a picture. No more problems. I also said we sometimes carry a car on the HDT and use it to haul more trailers than the RV. That was okay.

Glenn the neutral and the ground on your inverter are the safety of your RV. These are not separate issues. The inverter should be grounded to the frame and the neutral needs to be bonded. There is a misconception that the ground needs a ground rod to the earth to be safe. Not true! All grounds need to be connected together and bonded as John said for safety. Connecting to a ground rod is mainly for equipment protections. Grounding is a complicated and misunderstood electrical safety issue. There are some YouTube videos that go into some detail if you are interested.

I doubt Teton has the nuetral bonded to ground. It shouldn't be until you are plugged in. Then the nuetral to ground bond is at one location, usually the breaker box. I am not familiar with the inverter you have but it needs to bond the ground and neutral. Many smaller inverters do this but it might be wise to check. The ground and bonding within the RV is the most important. The ground rod provides mostly protection for surges and stray voltage for the equipment and some safety. However, for our safety proper grounding and bonding in the RV is essential.

To be safe ALL grounds should be connected together. This keeps everything at the same potential reducing shock hazards. Short answer is yes and the nuetral should be bonded to the ground.

Be careful with these setups. There can be some very dangerous grounding problems if the inverter has one leg bonded as a ground.

I typically have hydraulic cylinders repaired rather than buy new. When they have to replace the rods it isn't cheap but it is less than new. The chrome rods sell by the inch and then there is welding and machine work. When completed the cylinders are as good as new.

That seems high but I guess that is could cost that much. I do my own and the first site is pricey but once the well and septic are in additional sites are quite a bit less. If doing just one site $50,000 may not cover it if it needs well and septic. If utilities are available it may be less. Shared solar might be a deal breaker if full electrical including AC is anticipated.