Deezl Smoke

Finishing up with seed harvest, I hope to completely wash the poor thing and get it out for a short shake down. Working on the rear mud flaps and an issue with the sleeper hvac, then on to calibrating the cb.

Is the silver cylinder on the left of the gen box a muffler? If so, where does it terminate? Running the generator exhaust into the truck exhaust, if that is what is being done here, is not a good idea. That is "assuming" (usually never a good idea to do) that is what is going on as I can't really see in the picture all too well, the termination is going to the truck exhaust. Just going on that assumption for conversation purpose, when the truck engine is off, there will still be valves in the head open. The generator exhaust will be leaking into the truck engine. Problems from that are too many to list, but if I am not seeing the picture right, then ignore my rambling.

LMAO. 😆

The intermittent (as I interpret the written text anyway) grinding noise scares me. I cant help but wonder if this is a brake controller issue causing the trailer brakes to oscillate or harmonically engage and disengage at a very high rate. ?

I am NOT an insurance agent or have any real knowledge of insurance etc. I am also in no other capacity legally or otherwise. However, I have a gmc topkick for personal use that is vin#ed at 33,000gvwr. I only T plate it here in Oregon for 26,000lb. 26,000 and under does not require a cdl, 26.001 and up does. That for "T" plates here in Oregon which is a truck plate that you pay fees based on weight. Similar to the RV where you pay based on length. I've had this truck for years and for some reason even after being insured with the same company for several years, I get a letter in the mail stating that my vehicle in vin#ed as commercial and would not be renewed. I called to explain, did'nt matter. The larger insurance companies make decisions based on statistics and manufacturers facts. So I went insurance shopping. Found one that would sell me a policy for personal use, no cdl, non commercial. Basically they called it a "ranch" policy and I had to also bring other insurances to their table. Ok. Then I get a letter in the mail stating that the vehicle description and plates do not match the vin#. ???? huh? They required me to take pictures of the vehicle, with the plates and vin# etc. I did. They sent a letter confirming the vehicle and that it must have been a typo, however because it was originally equipped with a class 7 hitch from the factory, and that no official documents exist otherwise, they would not renew my policy unless I put F, or farm plates on it. The recent crack down of issue of F plates would not allow this, so on to insurance company 3. We will see how long this company keeps selling me a policy, but the agent, whom is new here from the south, (love her accent)mentioned that new computer programs are used to "audit" policy holders. Could'nt (or would'nt) explain further, but it is a risk management procedure because of all of the fraud now days. Similar in nature to the "why" it is so useless to put "private use only" or "not for hire" on your rv truck, because so many in the past abused the RV registration and used their vehicle for commercial use just trying to get away without the high expense of commercial license and insurance etc. Which is also why the farm or "F" plates are under fire and so hard to get now. My HDT RV is currently through PEMCO which is a small company. I dont know how long they will continue selling me a policy no matter the paper work I produce showing no commercial hitch, Motorhome title, etc., but no amount of splaining to them will change their minds once they find a way to use statistics to cut their losses or increase our premiums and restrict our coverages. IMO, which is worth the entire fee you paid me for it.

Yep. 👍

500 efficiency. I wont know the true mileage until I run a tank and get the gallonage at the pump, but the engine meter made it up to 12mpg driving home at purchase which was 450 miles. Started out at I think 8.9ish. That was from the prior owner pulling a trailer etc. Commercial service.

I tried my Viking 15 amp charger and it actually did the job just I want, but was very slow. So I found this copy of it on Amazon, but it is a 25 amp. Figured I would give it a try, and it works just as I want. Not sure how long these cheapo things will last, but for my limited usage, probably long enough. 25 amp charger amazon link

Almost embarrassed to show it with all of the super cool stuff everyone else has, but the build is finally about 95% done. It's trip ready anyway. Just needs to be washed and the new wheel cover set installed. Once I get my sidexside,I will build the powered ramp on the back.

I like that color too. It would go well with stainless and chrome as well as black which it has some on it. Nice.

Motor carrier told me Oregon and a couple other states, and this is a few years back, have a very advanced camera system in place. Weigh in motion and pre-clearance chains are I believe a good minute before the scale entrance. The cameras are near those devices.

Oregon signs say "all trucks over 20,000lbs must exit" at the scales. I emailed the Oregon motor carrier division about my class 8 rv. They called my phone, which I had included in the email, and told me they would know everything about me before the weigh in motion scale. What my title says, if I'm current with tags etc. They asked that I please not clog the scale lines, and drive on. For Oregon, ASK ODOT is a great resource. If you want to know before you go, simply email or call the state you wish to pass through. I'd rather email as then you have hard copy of the official's reply.

Yep. So you know the all too well the type of situation of which I speak. I've been pretty "lucky". No skill involved, but so far, I've only received the malfunction and in a very few small cases, been able to fix it for next to nothing, and sell it or use it. I've also passed up many easy fix specials as I am so gun shy after seeing a few friends buy an "easy fix" only to learn otherwise. I don't always learn, but I do try to learn from other's situations. My lack of confidence in these situations, depending if one's glass is half full or half empty, has either kept me from loosing too much or kept me from gaining much.

If you sell it, sell it to someone not on this board or any way to contact you. Not because of the issue, as I'm sure you will be forthright, but because the next owner may very well fix the issue for $5. I've witnessed this too many times over the years. Someone gets frustrated and disappointed enough to sell his/her beloved machine only to hear that the issue was resolved for next to nothing. Unfortunately sometimes ending a friendship as the seller accuses the buyer of knowing what the issue was and taking advantage of the situation. To which I will reserve my thoughts, but anyway..... Whatever you do, don't fool yourself into thinking that going to a pickup to tow, or some sort of motor home will solve anything. All vehicles are susceptible to intermittent, difficult to diagnose issues.

I'm barely a novice at solar, but I do see a lot of discussion about the benefits of each and heated discussion about which is better. But I am in a quite mild climate near Portland Oregon. I have no idea how well this will work out, but hoping for the best. Even if it does fail, I'm not giving up on solar, I will just chalk it up to expensive education.

I just bought a Renogy 1280 watt system for my off grid shop/work area. I have not got it put together and running yet, but solar is the way I plan to go going forward. My only solar experience up to now is 100 watt amorphous cell, pwm controller stuff. Now with the Renogy I am stepping up to the polycrystalline and mppt controller. I just want to get on the road and see what my eventual requirements are, then consider solar if I can utilize it. More than likely, the way I travel now, I would'nt even need to charge the house batteries until I return home. But since I will be running the generator for a short while each day for other AC needs, I may as well take advantage and keep the house batteries topped.

I see the NOCO getting high marks elsewhere as well. They sure have a large selection of models. Thanks for you input.

I have a coach battery bank that I wish to charge with the generator only when on trips. The batteries are not hooked to the truck in any way. There is no inverter on this battery circuit, only 12 volt dc items such as lights, water pump, fan etc. I would like to find a charger that does not have a start switch that has to be pushed each time. The charger will be located in the battery compartment. I do not wish to open the battery compartment each time I start the generator to start the charger. Trying to find a charger that will just start charging when the generator is on, and one that does not keep any display lit etc. when no input power. In other words, does not draw on the batteries when the generator is off. Any ides or recommends?

This is a valid rule of thumb for systems such as hydraulics etc. Especially mobile hydraulic systems where you may have a small cooler or even one with a fan, but you can not thermostatically control the flow of the fluid for cooling. Always a good rule of thumb to have in your knowledge base.👍

I'm hoping the attorney agrees and the dealership comes to their senses. But, typically, that's not how things go for people like me that work for their money and pay taxes. I will be sure to let the board know as soon as I do, what the lawyer says. Appt., at 9:30 this morning pacific time.

What little i can find online, which is, well....... there appears to be a time limit in which the seller has to make the cancellation, and even in that timeline, certain criteria have to be met. Far as I can tell, 10 days is the timeline most info have in common. This went on beyond 10 days. But,...we'll see I guess. In real estate, it used to be earnest money was irrevocable. Now the law has changed, and earnest money is pretty much of no value. I'm just hoping, but that's about it, hoping, that there is some law somewhere that protects against this sort of seller from cancelling the sale based solely on their market watch change of mind.

Nothing as cool as everyone else, but I got my new vanity plates for the Pete. I think it's cool anyway.

It's not going to court or anything. I'm only going to talk to my attorney to see if there is anything I can do. If not, I'm screwed.......like always. But 2 to 300 bucks for a 50k$ deal is worth the time and money IMO. Most of the time dealers work with statistics. So statistically, I would have just shouted curse words at the sales...person? and got my check sent. I just told him I'll consult with my attorney and get back to you. Not a statistical answer I bet.

This direct subject is a bit off topic, but the question may help other HDT'rs in a general way if they are in such a pickle. So I purchased a lowboy semi trailer from a multi store dealer chain back in the end of April. Used, priced really well. Called, ngotiated the delivery location, and made the deal. They sent a sales order to bee signed, I signed, scanned, emailed back. They then sent the wiring instruction, I wired the money the next morning standing at the bank door when they opened. Wire went through and all was confirmed. Time passes, I call to inquire if all is good. Yep, just waiting for truck to deliver it. A few more days pass, and I call again, now they want more money. ?? I said no, I bought it and wired the money, the deal is as stands. Several more days they screen my calls. Finally friday morning they answer and say deal's off, how do you want your check made out? I have an appt with my attorney monday morning, but curious if anyone here feels that I have any recourse, or if I am just screwed out of my trailer? FWIW, I feel very strongly that they noticed it was priced below market and with the market today, they simply decided to not honor the completed sale and go for more money. Just my opinion, but based on the price and how they carried things out...... Thanks. If the mods feel this is not the place, then delete this and I understand.

WOW...just wow. Nothing I can say other than it is so good to hear that you are ok.