Rhyph Posted June 8, 2018 Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 Howdy! I went to go out and start my truck yesterday morning to give it a little exercise and an odd series of events happened (2007 Frieghtliner Sportchassis w/330 Mercedes). When I unlocked the truck with the alarm key fob, all seemed normal, other than when I opened the drivers door there was a chime coming from the inside of the truck. It is the same chime that happens if you open the door without the parking brake set. So I go ahead and start it, all seems fine and I let the truck air up. I release the brake (has air parking brake) and put the truck in reverse, then all heck breaks loose. The alarm (as in anti-theft) goes off, the truck locks itself, the digital indicator display on the Allison transmission selector pad goes out and comes back after a few moments (seems to be a slow flashing), and I get both check engine and check transmission lights. The dash the popped up with fault codes. In my trying to figure out what is going on, my attention went to the alarm system. I shut the truck down, pull the key, hit unlock on the fob and that stopped the alarm with a triple chirp, but the doors didn't unlock. I had to unlock the door manually. I get out of the truck and start over and all goes normal other than it now has fault codes showing in the dash, and it all goes to heck again as soon as I try to drive the truck. The truck seems to drive and run fine? I've only moved it around my driveway a few dozen feet. In the meanwhile, with the truck off I still get that chime with any door open. The next thing I did was put the alarm system in valet, no joy, so I put it back into normal operation. Last thing I've tried was disconnecting the batteries on the truck for 10 minutes and tried everything again, all the symptoms came back except 1. The door chime going off with the doors (any of them) open, even though the truck is sitting still, parked and off did not return. Does anyone have any thoughts on what might be going on? Is the alarm system going bad, even though it seems to be ok otherwise since it spazzed out prior to the power disconnect? How can I find out what the fault codes mean? Pics of the fault codes because I'm not sure the the digits are (letters vs numbers), and pulled in order as I cycled through the screens: There was a FAULT 1 / FAULT 2 in between these below, I assumed that mean FAULT 1 is the first code & FAIL #, FAULT 2 was the second code & FAIL #. I tried to call Sportchassis today and I didn't get an answer. Unfortunately I got super busy with work and couldn't chase them. I'm trying to figure out what my best next steps are, is the truck safe to drive somewhere if I can't fix it myself? Thanks in advance if anyone can give me guidance. 2007 Freightliner SportChassis RHA-114 2016 Heartland Road Warrior 420 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53wlee53 Posted June 8, 2018 Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 This Link is for The Thomas Bus running the Freightliner M2 chassis. Hope this helps. www.autobusthomas.com/pdf/...Fault_Codes_Combined_2013_2013.01.23.pdf Wayne 2009 Freightliner M2-106 Crewcab 8.3 Cummins 330/1000- Allison 3000RDS 2003 Newmar MountainAire 39 SDTS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted June 9, 2018 Report Share Posted June 9, 2018 Try disconnecting your batteries for 5 minutes. That is what us HDT drivers do to reset the computer. Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemsteadc Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 On 6/8/2018 at 3:54 PM, Rhyph said: I tried to call Sportchassis today and I didn't get an answer. Don't call them. Email to sales@... They answer me usually within 10 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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