aknavy

Got a new windshield put in after driving it with a huge spiderweb of cracks for a year. Also put Dynamat and Dynapad in the cab, followed by stock rubber floor and a layer of carpet. While it's plush and clean, it only dropped the sound at idle 4 DB. It does sound noticeably quieter driving. Also put a Gen 2 door panel in on my passenger door. The old panel didn't take to -15 F very well and broke pretty badly. Other than the power window switch, it's a painless swap. The panel I bought came with a switch that was bad, so I had to finagle it.

As a planning app, it's pretty good. Just takes some getting used to. Maybe try this tutorial:

I had HDT insurance thru these folks: Cory Jacobs Executive Sales Agent 800 Superior Ave. E. Cleveland, Ohio 44114 (216) 592-7173 Cory.Jacobs@ngic.com My local State Farm dealer got me a policy that has better coverage for less money, so I switched. My truck is a 2001, NGIC would only do liability on it because it was over 20 years old.

KOA's are fairly reliable. Keep in mind - a KOA journey is designed for an overnight, while a KOA Holiday is designed for a longer stay. If using campgrounds, I look hard at the reviews of all the campgrounds in the area that I want to stop. If I were making that trip at the beginning of my RVing life, I'd do the following: 1. Plan more days. The schedule you have will be no fun. I'd plan for no more than 3-500 miles per day, especially as a newbie. Long travel days wear you out, and you will probably average 50-55 mph. And things will go wrong that you have to deal with. Maybe minor things, but that's just the nature of the beast. 2. I'd pick up a cheap 3500-4500 watt inverter generator. That's really all you need to start boondocking. It opens up so many possibilities. When we started, we had a generator and kept about 30 gallons of water in our fresh water tank, so we could boondock if needed, and dumped our waste tanks when we hit the next campground. 30 gallons will easily last 2-3 days. 3. Join Harvest Hosts- lots of nice overnight spots. We prefer this program for our overnights to parking lots. 4. Pay attention to any casinos on the way. They are also good overnights. 5. Crossing Texas - it's a long trip and there is nothing in west Texas. Just pick a campground that fits your travel plans and move on. 6. Key West - better have reservations, and prepare for sticker shock. If you are eligible for military campgrounds, they have a great one that is biking distance to downtown.

I'll post the before/after and driving impressions when I get it done.

Good to know ahead of time. The wife wants it quieter for her work calls. I'm ok with it, but it'll be nice to have a quieter truck.

I've got a thousand dollars worth of Dynamat and Dynapad sitting in the cab of the truck waiting from some motivation and warm weather. I'm going to do a DB test before and after and see if it makes much difference. Doing the doors and floor. Also going to add a muffler to my weed burner exhaust in an effort to quiet things down a bit.

Pretty sure it's SR 95, north out of Blythe, California to Needles, California. We came down south from Lake Havasu thru Parker on the other version of 95. Both routes are nice. Going thru Havasu takes longer, as you run into many traffic lights and the Havasu traffic. The road from Blythe to Needles was pretty quiet and an easy drive.

Just did this route a couple weeks ago. Nice road, nice views, barely any traffic. Just make sure you have fuel, as it's sparse for that stretch.

If you're watching the market, it's an ok deal. The miles are pretty high. You can get a 500-600k version for ten grand more. If you're planning on putting a bunch of time and money into it to convert it, I'd spend the extra and get the lower miles. With that being said, it would depend on what's been done in the way of maintenance.

We also don't do alot of reservations ahead of time unless the places have generous cancellation policies. I hate places that keep your entire fee if you cancel. Take a day if the cancellation is under 7 days prior, but to take more is irritating. Stuff happens, things break, and losing hundreds of dollars on top of it really irks me.

Lot of videos on the subject. Some have built an aluminum square tube frame and put aluminum sheet on both sides, then glued the existing fiberglass to the outer wall and non skid on the inner door, with rigid insulation in the middle. It appears to be sturdier, and who cares if there is condensation, as the door is primarily aluminum. I have a door that is beginning to fail, and if I have access to the right tools/shop when I decide to address it, I may go this route. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=youtube+rebuild+toy+hauler+ramp

You have more pictures of the truck?

I have a higher end production fifth wheel, and the wiring is a mess. A total mess. There are even wires ran between the frame and the floor. I dread the day that I have to deal with that failure - I don't see any easy way to rectify the situation without major surgery. The previous owners of my HDT must have owned stock in Scotchlocks.....which eventually caused me to lose bed/trailer lights. Was a mess. As you did - all went into the trash.

I don't think you can transfer any more, other than updating the information on the account. The original user will still be tied to it, but you can change billing/email address/etc for the new user.

I'm no expert by any means, but I would say $20-30k.

Put up a pic that includes the bed and hitch, that makes a big difference.

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of. I'm gonna put it off till we settle down for the winter and roll the dice.

2001 D12. My injector harness started to leak at the beginning of the year. I just had it officially diagnosed, and the dealership can't get the part here before I'm scheduled to move. I have not had any electrical issues as of yet. For those of you that have dealt with it, is this something that can wait another 5k miles till we're settled down for a while and I can get it done?

I've tried many, and Lexel is the best. Look at the links above for the Nomad Detailer for how to apply it somewhat easily. I used to redo the ProFlex a couple times a year. Lexel holds up much better, but is a royal pain in the butt to apply the first time. You can get it in clear, white, or black at Lowes or Ace Hardware. Clear is usually available, the other two are hit and miss.

Check out the DRV Fullhouse JX450. I think it has the best living space of the toy haulers out there. Luxe has some pretty good ones too. We're in a JX450, btw.

Death by drowning.

My only drawback, from being a potential customer, is that there is alot of unsupervised traffic thru the RV's on their lot. Probably not a big deal if it sells fast, but not a great situation if it sits on their lot for a month or two.

Sounds good, makes sense. Let me know if/when you want to get rid of the door panels, mine are a mess.

Any update on selling parts, or not selling parts?