oldjohnt

Sounds like you're on top of this. Not too long back my Inverter (2 KW, 2/0 30 inch cables) was dropping out due to low input voltage............. My cables were new and just made at Interstate Battery..........The hydraulic pressed on type terminals Interstate Battery made looked perfect to the eye.............HOWEVER upon further testing ONE OF THE TERMINALS THAT LOOKED PERFECT was dropping voltage !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cut it off and manually installed a copper screw down terminal suitable for 2/0 THEN ALL WORKED PERFECT... Again as V = I x R a small 0.1 ohm resistance drops 13 volts at 130 Amps !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That coupled with the voltage sag of your batteries especially at high current discharge can reduce voltage enough to cause drop out. One thing I like about my new Lithiums is the voltage sag is less under load as well as they can charge up faster !!!! NOTE to measure voltage drop ACROSS a resistive connection (or Inverters input) may be tricky as it may not last long. My meter has a min max memory setting which can remember/hold what was there briefly... Of course the Inverter could be the problem or all other sorts of causes such as weak batteries (have they been load tested??) This is ONLY one guess and what happened when my Inverter dropped out due to a bad terminal that still looked perfect grrrrrr Let us know what you find John T In the RV from Florida Flywheelers in Fort Meade Florida

Not being there to test and troubleshoot and IFFFFFFFFFFF the Inverter itself is all ok??? ONE PURE GUESS the Inverter is shutting down due to low voltage........ ONE POSSIBLE CAUSE Is voltage drop across a resistive terminal or connection. ONE POSSIBLE CAUSE is weak batteries causing excess voltage sag under load If the current is 130 amps and there's as little a 0.1 Ohm across a cable end or connection THATS A 13 VOLT DROP I have seen what look fine to the eye cable ends still be bad under the surface or under the crimp or end still be bad and resistive Check battery levels and run a load test,,,,,,,,,,,suspect bad cable ends or connections etc NO WARRANTY only a few guesses, there could be all sorts of other problems but this is all for now John T

Thanks Doc, even before/without your comments, I already considered those brands to be top notch and will be doing my homework John T

Thanks Kirk, good info, looks like it may not be what Im looking for ?? I prefer a hardware solution versus any monthly fees grrrrrrrrrrr Thanks doc, a few I looked at appear to use LAN cable (for multiple sources) while my Hotspots ONLY produce Wireless WiFi (NO LAN terminals). I have to figure out if any of those multiple input Load Balance Routers can receive dual WiFi INPUT Signals and produce a new WiFi OUTPUT my phone or laptop can connect to ???? Have you any thoughts on that ??????????????? NOTE I may be over reacting as far as I actually NEED this device......Its rare that either ATT or Verizon dont yield all the speed bandwidth and internet I need........Our current location is like the ONLY place the past months where service is a bit on the slow side ITS JUST I LIKE THINGS IN THE RV TO BE NEAR PERFECT LOL 90% isnt good enough lol Thanks everyone John T

Thanks, yes I looked at it, something like $600 to purchase then maybe $130 per month and it needs a clear sky to pick up the signal. Its one more tool in our internet bag of tricks. Unless Im wayyyyyyy out in the boonies far from a cell tower either AT&T or Verizon is working even under full tree shade canopy. I was just wondering if the two could be combined in rare cases where the location yields a bit slow service. Oh Well its tough out here lol Thanks for the comment, take care now John T

Okay gents, in the RV I have BOTH AT&T plus Verizon Jetpack/Hotspots each with an external MIMO Antenna Amplifier BOTH work fine and subject to location one can be stronger than the other. My laptop or cell phones see both those (and others) WiFi sources and we select one or the other to connect to...... QUESTION is there some sort of Software or a piece of Hardware/Router that will COMBINE the two WiFi signals and output the sum of both (like WiFi 3 etc) to increase up and download speed ???????????? John T NOT any WiFi or Router expert, Im old school can barely answer my smart phone lol

Youre welcome I enjoy feedback and hearing what happened when a problem is posted here including mistakes grrrrrrrrrrrr lol John T Florida Flywheelers Fort Meade Florida

PROBLEM SOLVED: My bad (Not familiar with borrowed compressor and its air chuck) I had borrowed a friends Milwaukee 20 V Lithium Digital Compressor (never seen or used it before) to air up the accumulator tank..You set the pressure to 30 PSI,,,,,,,,,,, Push the air chuck onto the tanks air bladder charge inlet,,,,,,,,,,You hear it make a seal, compressor loads down and it shuts off at 30 PSI SOUNDS REASONABLE Buddy comes over says you need to thread the chuck on NOT just push n hold although it sounds like it seals and pumps air until 30 and shuts off NOT I thread it full on, set to 30, pumps up to 30 and shuts off same as before HOWEVER as I fast as I can unscrew the chuck and hear air leaking DUE TO SUCH SMALL VOLUME OF BLADDER air pressure dropped down to 10 by the time it stopped. Sooooo I experimented a few times airing and unscrewing and reading digital gauge at end to see the pressure lost in process,,,,,,,,,Air it up to 50 PSI,,,,,unscrew chuck and at end its around 30 PSI,,,,,,,Pumps cut in pressure is around 30 to 35,(55 is cut off) NOW IT WORKS PREFECT, STEADY NEAR CONSTANT PRESSURE, NO SURGING OR SHORT SUDDEN CYCLING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Moral of the story READ DIRECTIONS on something you're unfamiliar with (NOT my best practice lol) and never used before. That air bladder is so small even the slightest leak when disconnecting (removed as fast as possible) drops the internal air pressure Grrrrrrrrrrr Anyone here never made a mistake lol NOT ME and I admit it WELL DRATS John T Live in RV at Florida Flywheelers Fort Mead Florida now with good steady fresh water tank n pump pressure ONE HAPPY CAMPER Thanks everyone

I didnt close anything I just turned the pump off (and hose city water was off of course) and when I removed the hose on the pressure OUTPUT (accumulator tank input) side of the old pump there was a lot of water under a lot of pressure until it all drained out,,,,,,,,,then I installed new pump (did NOT mess with tank or bladder air pressure or anything) AND SHORT CYCLING SURGING TOOK PLACE and after I drained air pressure and re charged to 30 PSI now its worse gggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Im going right now and drain the air tank and refill to 20 PSI see what happens?? PS I let air out charged t0O20 NO CHANGE NO HELP i LET ALL AIR OUT no change no help still cycles and surges Air tank went abd in process of change need new tank """????/ John T

Soooooooo I had an older Flo Jet fresh water pump and one of those pressure accumulator tanks that allowed for smooth even no short cycling pressure at the faucets....(worked great smooth even pressure no short cycling) The old pump was failing so I just replaced it with a Shur Flo 4008 -101-A65 55 PSI Pump (dont know the kick in pressure) and made NO changes to the pressure accumulator left it in the circuit.......AFTER the new pump was installed it started the classic short cycling surging with NO smooth regulation like before.....I let water drain and had pump on n off etc but it didnt help......I had water off, no pressure, let the air out of the tank, recharged to 30 PSI (figured it needs below the kick in PSI but dont know what that is) NOW THE SHORT CYCLING AND SURGING IS MUCH WORSE grrrrrrrrrrrr With such small volume its hard to tell if the air bladder tank is holding but Im pretty sure its holding at 30 PSI BUT NOW SHORT CYCLING IS TERRIBLE Ideas ?? hints ?? welcome THANKS YALL John T NOTTTTTTTT a plumber grrrrrrrrrrr

Of course having RVed for 50 years I support safe effective additions or improvements that make things go faster or easier yayyyyyyyyyyy THANKS FOR THE POST. Hey whatever works for YOU is great... When I winterized I sometimes just removed the anode rod so I could inspect it and replace if necessary PLUS it seemed to allow for a better more rapid drain and discharge of any crud or accumulation VERSUS if only a trickle drain/discharge occurred and some sediment and particles got left behind WELL DRATS LOL I AGREE WITH LAPPIR Its my opinion if the anode was fairly new and still full sized the drain/discharge may be a bit slower, while if its worn way down which I have seen it would drain faster maybe bring more crud out with it ??? Darn if I know lol Thanks for the tip, glad it works for you it looks so easy peasey GOOD INFO John T

Thanks for the update: It sounds from what you post that genset should suffice !!!!!!!!! Indeed some RV's that use perhaps a 240 Volt dryer or AC or mini split etc. NEED FULL TRUE 120/240 SINGLE PHASE THREE WIRE ELECTRICAL SERVICE such as most modern RV 50 Amp NEMA 14-50R Receptacles furnish subject to the parks distribution scheme. Many 50 Amp RV's however do not use any 240 Volt appliances. They operate with ALL loads/appliances being 120 Volt, they just divide the loads among the two 120 availoable VAC legs, maybe one AC on L1 the other AC on L2 etc. While its unlikely you actually require that much, 50 Amps at 240 Volts = 12,000 Watts It's easy peasey (as I previously posted 4 comments up above) to check voltage at the gensets 50 Amp receptacle to see what's actually present. If you measure 120 VAC from EITHER L1 or L2 to Neutral or Ground and 240 VAC L1 to L2 THATS FULL TRUE 120/240 SINGLE PHASE THREE WIRE the same as most modern RV 50 amp pedestal power. HOWEVER (as I posted up above) if you measure 0 volts L1 to L2 thats NOT what you need if your RV requires 240 Volts for an AC or mini split or dryer etc Hang in there you are getting this, hope this helps, post back any questions Have a Happy and Blessed New Year everyone John T

I agree with Chad, I have seen portable gensets with 50 Amp 3 Pole 4 Wire Grounding Receptacles that produce 120 VAC from EITHER L1 or L2 to Neutral, however those are IN PHASE such thats it IS NOT 240 VAC L1 TO L2, ITS ACTUALLY ZERO VOLTS L1 TO L2 !!!!!!!!!!!!!! CAUTION even if you don't need 240 as the case in most 50 amp RVs, if L1 and L2 are in phase (like some gensets are) subject to current draw and Neutral conductor THERES A RISK YOU WILL OVERLOAD THE NEUTRAL CONDUCTOR, The reason is with true 120/240 Single Phase Three Wire service L1 and L2 are 180 out of phase with each other whereby its 240 L1 to L2 and in that case if BOTH L1 and L2 draw the same current NEUTRAL CURRENT IS ZERO, they cancel each other out UNLIKE the case in a genset thats NOT true 120/240. HOWEVER thats NOT to say a genset with a 50 Amp Receptacle (even if L1 and L2 are in phase phase cant be used) just be aware and limit your loads and realize you may NOT be able to power a lot of appliances as if you were hooked to actual 120/240 Single Phase Three Wire like many RV park pedestals and homes and be aware Neutral currents are additive ... Hope this helps, John T Long retired n rusty power engineer but believe this is still true HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE

Congratulations, you cant beat the old tried n true KISS method lol John T Live in the RV from Avon Park FL, back to 70 and 80 next few days yayyyyyyyyy

Congratulations rb and thanks for the info, using heaters to protect Lithium batteries and prevent any damage is so simple, basic and a no brainer as far as I'm concerned. With over 50 years of RVing and lots of dry camping I long ago converted to Lithium, am happy and never looking back... Merry CHRISTmas to everyone John T Live in the RV from Sebring Florida

Congratulations !!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the update......... I always hope for, try and suggest the cheap easy KISS fixes FIRST, but if all else was good then as suspected you were left with a bad ATS WELL DRATS lol usually happens its a more expensive cure (*&^%%$# You did good John T

Dutch, Good info, Ive had lots of experience on Onans as well as Generacs (Non imverter style) using those two adjustments, they work pretty well and are easy peasey to tweak. Maybe the OP simply needs to adjust his governor speed to achieve 120 VAC (as RPM increases Frequency as well as volts increases) but that isnt going to fix any ATS problems OR SIMPLY BAD CONNECTIONS !!!!! Those ATS screw down wire terminals (or wire nuts) have been known to come loose !!! The relay contacts can get carboned up and resistive likewise... As always nice sparky chatting with you John T Now in Lecanto and Inverness Florida area..Warm n Sunny days cool nights great for dry camping

Good questions but a bit above my pay grade absent detailed diagrams, but I will throw out some very basic best guesses: My background is more along power distribution and general RV electricals versus electronics and voltage regulation systems which is complicated and controlled with the circuit board. 1) Its my OPINION if the genny were consistently producing 140 VAC which is on the high side (assuming an accurate reading??) that would NOT prevent the ATS from switching. It senses when genny voltage becomes present and typically AFTER a time delay it will toggle. If thats a bit high my best guess is it wont matter. NOTE with no load and open circuited I can envision voltage being on the high side until such time load current flows causing the control board to bring voltage within tolerances and if that 140 is temporary but not when a load is applied (at which time it comes down to 120) its not such a concern BUT I DONT HAVE ANY DIAGRAMS OR EXPERIENCE TO KNOW FOR SURE NOOOOOOOO WARRANTY 2) For sure if its actually producing 140 VAC consistently over time (NOT just brief transitory until voltage regulation circuitry takes over) I would be calling tech support and performing some troubleshooting as called for in the owners manual. NOTE it also makes a difference if you genset were an Inverter style (which I doubt) versus the old school typical RPM voltage and frequency based. Those can run a bit on the high side (RPM frequency and voltage) until a load is applied which supports my guess 140 would NOT stop the ATS from toggling 3) Again the excitation voltage and current which regulates the gensets output voltage is most likely contained within the control board which is wayyyyyyyyyyyyy above my pay grade and expertise. Of course I'm hesitant to advise you that a new ATS is needed BEFORE all other possibilities are exhausted including simple basics like a bad connection !!!!!!!!! That being said, just above I described the situations when a new ATS IS REQUIRED. Theres just too many variables and unknowns plus not being there to run my own tests that I cant diagnose your problem over the net. Maybe others here can and great if they do but I'm not confident in telling you FOR SURE whats needed other than what I said above SORRY. John T Headed to Lecanto Florida I will check back later

Not being there to do my own testing I can't say 100% for sure. I can say however, (1) Iffffffffff the genny (assuming its a 50 Amp 120/240 Genset same as utility provides ?????) when running is producing 120 VAC L1 or L2 to Neutral (or Ground) and 240 L1 to L2 it sounds fine PROVIDED IT DOES THE SAME UNDER LOAD !!!!!!!!!!!!!! and (2) if the ATS isn't switching/transferring that same voltage to the panel (after delay time) when genny runs iffffffff all the wiring is good, correct and intact (could just have a loose/bad connection !!!!) ,,,,,,,,,,,IT NEEDS REPLACED. That 140 Volts you spoke of IS TOO HIGH which points to a genny problem !!!!!!!!! Again without my own testing I cant advise you to purchase a new ATS or troubleshoot the genny and still advise you contact tech support in addition to what any of us might speculate here in the dark... I was in the Austin later east of there a while back and would have been glad to help, but Im in Florida now Keep us posted how things proceed and feel free to ask any more questions John T Moose Lodge near Ocala headed to Lecanto Florida Moose later today for dry camping good food good cold beer yayyyyyyyyyyyy

Thats correct for a 120/240 Volt Single Phase Three Wire Service configuration of which most (not all) 50 amp RV power pedestals are set up. Ive seen 208Y 120 service in some RV parks !!! With Red and Black being the UNgrounded AKA Hot/Line L1 & L2 phase conductors ,,,,,,,,,White the Grounded AKA Neutral Conductor,,,,,,,,,Green/Bare being the Equipmemnt GroundiNG Conductor: You would measure 120 VAC from EITHER Hot L1 or L2 to Neutral orrrrrrrrrr Ground and as you found 240 L1 (Red) to L2 (Black) PROVIDED all is wired and configured correctly. NOTE there can be ONLY one Neutral Ground Bond and when wired to a genset some ATS's I read about provide a method to create that Bond ONLY WHEN using Genset power but NOT otherwise. Unlike a homes panel remember an RV panel has separate insulated and isolated Neutral and Ground Busses as the single NG bond previously takes place at the Utility or a Genset when used. NOTE so long as the ATS switches/selects EITHER the Genset or Utility to feed the panel with enough poles (its purpose DUH) and has sufficient ampacity and voltage ratings, any of among several different brands will, of course, work but I have no idea how your existing switch or a replacement might handle any Neutral Ground Bonding issues???? Absent your existing switches wiring diagram and the same for a proposed new switch, I hesitate to recommend a replacement. I suggest you talk to tech support to make sure if there are any ATS Neutral Ground Bonding issues that need addressed. There's likely nothing to worry about but I just can't say from here. Thats HIGH !!!!!!!!!!! and over 10% above nominal 120 !!!! Talk to TECHNCAL SUPPORT (instead of sales people lol) regarding your current switch (maybe they can help troubleshoot, maybe get yours going, maybe its a circuit control board problem ??? and before ordering any replacement is my best advice. Im just too long retired from power distribution engineering and rusty which is why I hesitate to give further advice or spend YOUR money lol Best wishes God Bless and have a Merry CHRISTmas John T Live in the RV from the West Marion Moose Lodge near Ocala Florida where Im dry camped for the night

You're welcome, Just hope (provided its not an ATS or bad connection) it's NOT a control circuit board problem (see owners manual troubleshooting tips) those are EXPENSIVE if you have to purchase from Onan and Dinosaur Electronics doesn't offer replacements grrrrrrrrrr The voltage check measurements at the locations I described are easy peasey even if all you have is a cheap Harbor Freight Volt Ohm Meter. Best wishes let us know what you find John T Live in the RV currently in High Springs Florida

Good morning, in fifty years of RV ownership and several different brands of gensets and ATS's, Ive encountered that problem and agree with the other fine gents. Here are the five most common causes I encountered: 1) ATS isnt switching...........There can be a built in delay from the time the genset starts until the actual switching takes place..........On some faulty AT switches if you shut them down and restart it may work the next time, try that. Check alllllllllll connections inside the ATS box 2) The onboard circuit breakers on the genset are tripped.... 3) Theres a bad or loose or open connection somewhere between the gensets output and the panel. Look in junction boxes and check wire nuts and connections !!! 4) If theres no ATS but instead the power cord plugs into a genny fed receptacle, insure theres genny power to the box receptacle and the plug is good and fully/firmly in place. 5) The Genset itself is bad it may be a control circuit board problem grrrrrrrrrrrr expensive Take a volt meter and one at a time see where there is (if any) power and where it stops. Start at gennys output and to the ATS input (look for a junction box open it and check connections and wire nuts etc) ,,,,,,,,,Start genny and see if ATS actually switches (wont until genny products voltage!!!) and if so theres power on its output,,,,,,,,,see if theres power to the panel and check all breakers there If allllllllllll connections and spices, wiring and wire nuts and ATS and genny breakers are good, look into genset troubleshooting, it could be minor or need excited or the control board is bad. I had that happen on a few Onans grrrrrrrrrrrrrs John T

Its crude and ugly and NOT professional looking but I have seen gents use an iron pipe that passes through well secured eye bolts to where one would have to demolish the door to gain entry. With all of todays security features such as cameras, motion detectors, lights and alarms out there such may be a safer more secure method of protection. If someone outside gets too close or attempts entry and lights bells whistles and alarms go off that may well scare them away. If not, there's personal protection of course !!!!!!!!!!! This is a very personal decision for you alone and none of us to make. It doesnt matter in the least if any of us ever had a problem or not !!!!!!!!!! It only takes one time !!! I figure crooks are less apt to be looking way out in the boonies for opportunities than in cities but what do any of us know ??? Pipes, brackets, bars, locks, personal protection, electronics alarms are YOUR choice... John T in the RV in Perry Florida boondocked in a church parking lot Locked n Loaded lol

X2 No harm in overkill (especially with all the shock and vibration in an RV) has been my experience. John T

X2 EXACTLY I can testify that's indeed true in my 50 years of RV ownership !!! For additions or mods like Glenn is considering I like the superior flexibility and vibration tolerance afforded by stranded conductors. Nice chatting with you, best wishes Denny John T DITTO XT I specified and our shop kept hundreds of foot spools of SOOW cord in stock which my electricians loved using. 6 AWG - Multi-Conductor - 600V - Stranded Conductor - SOOW - Portable Cord | ShowMeCables.com As always nice sparky chatting with you Chad CAUTION AND DISCLAIMER I'm rusty on the latest codes, do NOT know and am NOT saying when and where SOOW Cord is approved by the NEC for use in an RV. If not I advise NOT to use it even if I or anyone has... John T Live from Davis Bayou Camp in Ocean Springs MS