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About porky69

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    Coaldale,Alberta, Canada

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  1. Parking on an incline

    1. When applying the parking brake there is no air pressure to the brakes. Parking brakes are spring applied and air release. Service brakes are air apply. Failsafe design....loss of system air pressure equals brakes coming on. 2. Could be. 10 degrees is fairly steep (approx 17-18% grade). 3. Parking on an incline shouldn't be an issue so long as parking brakes work and engine has enough oil to stay primed.
  2. Up and Down Vibration at Speed

    If you find the right shop they may have access to some high tech vibration diagnostic equipment. Years ago the company i worked for had a bed truck (similar to https://www.camex.com/trucks/bed-pole-rig-up-trucks/equipment/11872/2015-kenworth-c500-bed-truck/) that had a vibration that no one could diagnose. Threw lots of parts at it with no results (on warranty luckily). Dealer ended up accessing a system where they puts sensors all over the truck (various points on frame, multiple points on each axle, engine, transmissions,etc) and was finally able to determine where the vibration was. If I remember correctly it ended up being a rear suspension issue (100,000lb capacity rubber block)
  3. Engine brake

    Is the ECM set so that the Jakes only come on with the service brakes? Only have to tap the brakes enough to activate the jakes then let them do the braking...you may not realize that you are doing that when they work..or it could be some of the stuff above.
  4. Proper Use Of Volvo Jake Brake

    Keep in mind that cruise control and jake brake parameters can be adjusted in the ECM. Not every truck (even if identical drivetrains) will be set the same way so far as at what speed the jakes come on, whether or not they automatically switch between hi/med/low, if the cruise control will allow the jakes to come on, and many other parameters that affect engine braking. As indicated above the higher the RPM the more braking power there is. At a given engine RPM the engine produces the same braking power whether in 1st or 10th gear, but the mechanical gear reduction of the lower gears (at the same RPM)makes the braking more effective as you gear down.
  5. Runaway Truck

    I once had an 18speed manual do pretty much the same thing, stepped on the clutch, put into gear like normal and took off. Next time I stepped on the clutch it worked normally as I stepped on it but as I was letting it up all of the sudden the pedal dropped to the floor and the truck stalled from rapid clutch engagement in a high starting gear. Upon disassembly/diagnosis they found that the clutch was pretty much worn out but the main cause was the throwout bearing had come apart.
  6. Runaway Truck

    Definitely a clutch issue, but don't just go and throw new hydraulics on it. There are many other things it could be...throwout bearing may have failed, pressure plate may have failed, hydraulics may have failed. Proper diagnosis is needed.
  7. This is what I use to secure my vehicles to our car trailer (I know its different than what you are looking for but...) http://www.truckntow.com/auto-hauler-supply/car-hauler-straps/vulcan-silver-series-flat-bed-side-rail-tie-down-with-flat-hook.html Here is a link to all of their autohauler supplies: http://www.truckntow.com/auto-hauler-supply.html As an aside these guys have excellent customer service...when I received my order one of the 4 straps was slightly different (but still fully functional) and when I contacted them they exchanged it no problem and shipped the replacement quickly.
  8. truck brakes

    FWIW..... a tandem axle truck will most likely be spec'ed with a gvw of at least 46,000lb (12,000lb steers+34000lb drives) so weight capacity wise if you are under that weight you would technically have enough brakes to stop the unit. The legal side of the equation says that any trailer over a certain weight (varies from state to state, but usually somewhere around 3000lb) must have functioning brakes. Running with out the quick release valve could cause extra brake wear on the trailer. With the power an HDT has you probably would not have noticed the trailer brakes releasing more slowly (and therefore dragging if you didn't wait long enough). Most noticeably when running in traffic and lightly using the brakes while rolling along. I wouldn't hesitate to run without the trailer brakes functioning but would definitely have got them fixed ASAP.
  9. Need information concering, 3 pedal 18 speed Auto Shift

    The 18speed version is pretty much identical to the 13speed version, just more gears.
  10. Try explaining to the dealer what you are up against as far as registration and insurance, I bet they will have a solution for you. They might deliver it to you for a small fee, or maybe they can set you up with temporary registration and insurance through them ( in other words, make it look like you are going on an "extended" test drive).
  11. Wheelbase and axles

    Wheelbase will be affected by what make and model HDT you are working with. The distance from the steering axle to back of cab (sleeper) varies by truck. The numbers you need to figure are going to be cab-to-axle and cab-to-end of frame. Like others have said it is not a simple answer. You would need to decide how long of a deck you want, where you want your rear axle to be in relation to the deck (do you want it right at the back under the hitch(makes for a longer wheelbase, therefore bigger turning radius) or do you want it forward 4,5,6....feet to help with turning radius, lift some weight off the steering axle,etc. So you kind of need to work backwards....envision the final product, calculate back to get rear axle position and then figure that onto you chassis to figure out wheelbase.
  12. For what it is worth.....Here is another possible scenario to low voltage readings with a MS2012(or any Magnum inverter) equipped with the BTS option..... I had similar readings on my coach(which has a MS2012 with 4 Group 27 12volt batteries) last summer and after my local RV repair guy talked to his regional rep for Sensata (Magnum's parent company) he suggested checking the battery temperature reading on the remote. It read 99celsius, seemed odd that the batteries were at 4times the ambient air temperature that day but were cold(relative term) to the touch. It turned out that the Battery Temperature Sensor(BTS) for the inverter had crapped out and was telling the inverter the batteries were at 99degrees Celsius and therefore it cut the maximum charge voltage to ~12.5volts. Immediately after unplugging the BTS from the inverter the voltage increased to well over 13volts. Replaced BTS and no more low voltage.
  13. 2004 Volvo Questions

    If you want to use all of the gears the shift pattern is: Front Flipper(range selector) down (will only go down if red button is slide to back) then shift L-1-2-3-4 (L is all the way left and back). Then Flip the front valve up (pre-select) and shift back into 1 hole(also marked 5H/L), this makes gear 6. When it is time to shift again, Slide red button forward, let off throttle briefly, once you feel it shift ease into the throttle again. You are now in 7th(5 high). To shift to the next gear as you start to move the shift lever towards the #2/6 hole, slide the red button back to the low position and continue this progression until you get to 8H(13th). For light load (RV puller)or bobtail I would start in either 1, 2 or 3 (depends on the truck) with the front lever down and shift L-1-2-3-4, Front lever up and the go 5L-6L-7L-8L-8H(or you could go 5L-5H-6H-7H-8H, just so long as you get into High eventually), you don't need all of the gears. Here is a link to the shift pattern label 13speed shift pattern (I tried to post this picture but it wouldn't take it). It looks confusing but if you watch some YouTube videos and study the label its not that bad, you just have to find the rhythm of that unit. If you want to use the clutch you will have to double clutch (push clutch in to shift from gear into neutral, briefly engage clutch, push clutch in to go into gear, shift and the release clutch). I find it much easier to float shift (clutch only for initial start and stop, rev the engine to match the gears). You are going to grind a lot of gears for the first little bit but keep trying, it will get easier fairly quickly. If you have never driven a HDT before and are only going to drive it occasionally to pull your trailer I would recommend finding a truck with an automatic or an autoshift....
  14. Kenworth 600

    After running Cat engines (all various versions of the 3406 ending just before the bridge engines) ranging from 350hp up to 600hp with no more problems than the guys running Detroit, Cummins, Volvo, etc I would have no issues with a Cat engine, however I have heard from the parts guys at the Freightliner dealership I use for my motorcoach that hard parts for Cat on-highway products are getting EXPENSIVE (they say some fuel system parts are up to 5times the cost that they used to be). If the unit was low miles (either overall or since rebuild) I wouldn't give a second thought to purchase. There is nothing sweeter than the sound of a properly tuned Cat 3406E 600Hp running through 8inch straight pipes (the low frequency rumble is awe inspiring).
  15. Saw This Today

    Maybe a FWD 6x6? Possibly Autocar.....