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Phx area best shop to convert my retired semi to an HDT


Trucker Bernadette

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Hi, I’m an active long haul owner op (26 years) and recently retired my 2011 International Prostar (Wally). He’s got 1.1 million miles but only 300k on new Cummins ISX engine. While I’m somewhat handy I want a pro to replace my orig fifth wheel with one to tow a DRV or similiar 5th wheel as well as do the electrical work. I wasn’t planning on changing much and I’ll keep the dual axles but, where or who can swap out the 5th wheel and get me hooked up right? Thanks!

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Really any fab shop or machine shop can do it. I just threw a 3/4 plate on and bolted a Comfort ride on. 

 

https://i.imgur.com/YqpE0qhl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YqpE0qhl.jpg

YqpE0qhl.jpg

 

 

Edited by jenandjon

Farmer, Trucker, Equipment operator, Mechanic

Quando omni flunkus moritati-When all else fails, play dead
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.

 

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Did you single out the drives? I wasn’t going to touch the axles. Can an RV dealer install/hookup electrical? I mean, if someone buys a camper from them and uses a regular pickup truck, I’d think the dealer could handle setting up the electrical connections, doing it on my rig shouldn’t be hard, isn’t it mostly just a different pigtail?

 

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4 hours ago, Trucker Bernadette said:

Did you single out the drives? I wasn’t going to touch the axles. Can an RV dealer install/hookup electrical? I mean, if someone buys a camper from them and uses a regular pickup truck, I’d think the dealer could handle setting up the electrical connections, doing it on my rig shouldn’t be hard, isn’t it mostly just a different pigtail?

 

Converting from Commercial to RV 7 pin connectors requires some hardware with relays to take the separated brake and turn signal on the commercial side and make it a combined brake/turn signal on the TV side.  The most common way of doing this with forum members here is using a Jackalope kit.  It was developed by a forum member here and he has a thread going talking about upgrades he has recently made to the installation manual and kit.  I doubt any typical RV dealer is going to be knowledgeable about the conversion.  If you have any basic electrical skills, it is a fairly straightforward DIY project though.

 

on edit:  here is the thread I mentioned 

 

Edited by Chad Heiser

2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift
2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard
2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan
2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage)
2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)
My First Solar Install Thread
My Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the build
My MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet!

chadheiser.com      West Coast HDT Rally Website

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AZCACOIDIAKSMNMOMTNENVNMNDOKSDTNTXUTWYxlg.jpg

 

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On 6/7/2023 at 9:55 PM, Trucker Bernadette said:

Is there a specific hitch that works best? Someone said an ET? 

ET is the most expensive hitch on the market. I opted for the Comfort ride. There are a ton of trailer saver hitches out there as well. They are more affordable and easier to DIY yourself. 

Farmer, Trucker, Equipment operator, Mechanic

Quando omni flunkus moritati-When all else fails, play dead
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.

 

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On 6/7/2023 at 9:58 PM, Trucker Bernadette said:

Did you single out the drives? I wasn’t going to touch the axles. Can an RV dealer install/hookup electrical? I mean, if someone buys a camper from them and uses a regular pickup truck, I’d think the dealer could handle setting up the electrical connections, doing it on my rig shouldn’t be hard, isn’t it mostly just a different pigtail?

 

As Chad Said get the Jackalopee. It comes plug and play now. Remove your old pigtail and plug this in. It converts your commercial truck wiring to RV.

Farmer, Trucker, Equipment operator, Mechanic

Quando omni flunkus moritati-When all else fails, play dead
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.

 

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It's been 2 years since I priced, but the TrailerSaver, a pretty good hitch, was about $1k cheaper than the ET, top-o-the-heap.  I think they were about $3.500,v. $4,500 ish back then.  I opted for the ET because, A), we had a TailerSaver and while it did okay, I wanted better, and 2) This truck will very likely be pulling a heavier trailer in a few years.

Edited by rickeieio
Software glitch changes what I type.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Just bought a TS and was available to ship right away after they added the 3rd bag with $65 shipping.  The ET was out 4-6 weeks before I could get an answer as to availability and I have heard that some are seeing 14-16 weeks for 1.  Well I didnt want to wait and I had a TS in the past and it was suitable for what I wanted to use it for.  Oh, and the shipping to me was about $475 and they were priced about $1500 more than the TS was at just under $4000.  32K# capacity and 7500 pin capacity.  Worked for what I wanted.  So now its installed and pulling.

Marcel

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I have a used ET Hitch for sale. 
it’s listed in the for sale section or private message me. 

Rick and Alana

Fulltimers

2018 Newmar Ventana 4037

2020 Jeep Gladiator 

1997 Jeep TJ

2009 Mobile Suites 36RSSB3

 

formerly owned 2000 Volvo 770, 600 Cummins ISX,18 speed autoshift, 14 foot "garage"

ET,Jackalopee,MaxBrake,Pressure Pro pro

www.rickandalanasgreatadventures.blogspot.com

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