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DPF cleaning


Rotorhead

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So, I was going to do a regen analyzer test with my Cummins Insite software. But it wouldn’t do it because there was a code for the after treatment system. SPN 5018, FMI 11. I called the Cummins service center and they said it was the inlet side clogged with soot. 
I was wondering if I should or could leave the screen off once I disassemble the DPF and clean it up? And then leave it unplugged once reinstalled. I would also unplug the EGR after it is fully closed. Both of course would give me a check light, but I wouldn’t have to worry about it getting clogged again would I?

Or should I just clean and reassemble and have it all plugged in?

I appreciate your thoughts.

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I wouldn't willy nilly unplug sensors related to the aftertreatment system because the software that controls your ECM is "looking" for specific engine operating parameters in order to run properly.  Now, if you'd like to reprogram the ECM for a diet, shall we say, your best bet is to go north of the border where writing those kind of computer programs won't result in an appointment with the feds.  And that's the last I'll say on that topic.  😉

2012 F350 KR CC DRW w/ some stuff
2019 Arctic Fox 32-5M
Cindy and Tom, Kasey and Maggie (our Newfie and Berner)
Oh...I forgot the five kids.

 

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10 hours ago, spindrift said:

I wouldn't willy nilly unplug sensors related to the aftertreatment system because the software that controls your ECM is "looking" for specific engine operating parameters in order to run properly.  Now, if you'd like to reprogram the ECM for a diet, shall we say, your best bet is to go north of the border where writing those kind of computer programs won't result in an appointment with the feds.  And that's the last I'll say on that topic.  😉

Got it. Thanks. I’ll just clean it and reassemble for now. Work schedule is keeping me busy as is the honey do list. 

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 My opinion.

 Fix it right. Then look into "snake oil" additives for the fuel. Additive is a very controversial subject and will get no end of heated discussion from both sides. I however, find credible information from those that share their company fuel and repair info in hard copy.

 Preferably, an additive with a catalyst approved for DPF and SCR emissions. I'll not promote any particular product brand or any particular company for info, as that is up to you to find so that you can trust the sources that you look for, but truck shows are a great place to find actual info, and/or sources for further info.

 I was able to find several Cummins owner/operators that had tried several products to reduce regens and derates from clogging. Many products that I had considered were debunked and no longer on my list. I'd like the best fuel economy that I can get, as my rv is not making me any money, but my priority now is to reduce the cost of emission maintenance over fuel economy. Idling is the death of the DPF. Do not idle any longer than absolutely needed.

I'm a work'n on it.

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On 5/25/2023 at 7:57 AM, Deezl Smoke said:

 My opinion.

 Fix it right. Then look into "snake oil" additives for the fuel. Additive is a very controversial subject and will get no end of heated discussion from both sides. I however, find credible information from those that share their company fuel and repair info in hard copy.

 Preferably, an additive with a catalyst approved for DPF and SCR emissions. I'll not promote any particular product brand or any particular company for info, as that is up to you to find so that you can trust the sources that you look for, but truck shows are a great place to find actual info, and/or sources for further info.

 I was able to find several Cummins owner/operators that had tried several products to reduce regens and derates from clogging. Many products that I had considered were debunked and no longer on my list. I'd like the best fuel economy that I can get, as my rv is not making me any money, but my priority now is to reduce the cost of emission maintenance over fuel economy. Idling is the death of the DPF. Do not idle any longer than absolutely needed.

Thanks Deezl Smoke. I have been using Pittsburgh Power Max Mileage. I will look around and see what else is out there. I talked to a guy who is a O/O and working for Landstar. He said it made a huge difference in how his engine runs and got better gas mileage. He said his engine actually runs quieter now. 
I plan on just cleaning the DOC and DPF since buying new are out of reach right now. If I can’t get them clean then I will go have them baked to see how that goes. 
It’s a never ending education on maintenance that’s for sure. Keeps the wheels turning.

Chuck

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12 hours ago, Rotorhead said:

Thanks Deezl Smoke. I have been using Pittsburgh Power Max Mileage. I will look around and see what else is out there. I talked to a guy who is a O/O and working for Landstar. He said it made a huge difference in how his engine runs and got better gas mileage. He said his engine actually runs quieter now. 
I plan on just cleaning the DOC and DPF since buying new are out of reach right now. If I can’t get them clean then I will go have them baked to see how that goes. 
It’s a never ending education on maintenance that’s for sure. Keeps the wheels turning.

Chuck

 That's the very same product that I keep hearing good things about.

 I have a 500 Economy Cummins in my rv. Trying to drive it while in regen,.... So any product that I can safely put in the tank and reduce the regen frequency?...I'm all in.

I'm a work'n on it.

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Is nothing to do but either exchange to a cleaned DPF or have the one in the machine cleaned.  Unless find someone willing to chance a DELETE nothing of trying to cheat that system has ever worked.  Is the main reason I accepted a Pre=07 truck to rebuild/repair.

Edited by ddm502001
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3 hours ago, ddm502001 said:

Is nothing to do but either exchange to a cleaned DPF or have the one in the machine cleaned.  Unless find someone willing to chance a DELETE nothing of trying to cheat that system has ever worked.  Is the main reason I accepted a Pre=07 truck to rebuild/repair.

Yeah, I decided to just clean it out. I saw some videos where they pressure washed the DOC and DPF. If that works great. If not I’ll go get them baked. 
I saw a video where they busted the ceramic out. I’m not sure how that would work out during a regen with the high temps. I would assume it would be better to just unplug the EGR and DPF if you’re going to do that. 
Anyway, I’ll clean them and see how long that lasts.

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Damaging the Ceramic changes the values for the sensor algorithms, that will drop a Check Engine light and a Derate.

Know two that have done the power washer routine, only does not last, as to baking, these are regenerated in a Natural Gas oven at 1800+ degrees to remove the ash buildup and contaminates collected on the ceramic metallic element.

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On 5/30/2023 at 8:16 PM, ddm502001 said:

Damaging the Ceramic changes the values for the sensor algorithms, that will drop a Check Engine light and a Derate.

Know two that have done the power washer routine, only does not last, as to baking, these are regenerated in a Natural Gas oven at 1800+ degrees to remove the ash buildup and contaminates collected on the ceramic metallic element.

Assuming my ceramic is not damaged, I am going to clean mine as follows. 1. Use blower and then compressed air to get as much loose stuff out as possible. 2. Soak using LA Awesome Cleaner. 3. Pressure wash/hose rinse until no more soot comes out. 4. Reassemble.

If that works to clear the code that says the DOC is clogged and the ECM will let the REGEN occur, I am going to do 2-3 parked REGENS in a row. Hopefully it will work. I can't afford a new filter(s) right now. Have to save up.

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