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Dometic RM2652 won’t turn on


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For starters here are basic operation manuals plus a troubleshooting manual, I'm occupied now (company coming) but will check back later to see if I can help.

Insure there are no blown glass fuses on the control circuit board and battery voltage is adequate. Check the voltage in the rear where the 12 VDC power circuit is attached. I forget where the cable attaches to the eyebrow panel, see if you can find it and all is tight and in place.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/2652operation.pdf

http://www.dave78chieftain.com/RVFridgeLibrary/Dometic/RM2612_tips.pdf

John T Be back later if I can

 

Edited by oldjohnt
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Did you check the fuses with an ohm meter, as it can be difficult to tell if a fuse is bad by just looking. You can either remove the fuse and look for a 0ꭥ reading for a good fuse or you can measure across the fuse with power supplied and a good fuse will measure 0V and with an open fuse it will read 12V or whatever the supply voltage is.  The service manual suggests the following things to check.

Quote

Operation
DC Volts
Fuse
Wiring
Upper Circuit Board
Lower Circuit Board

 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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Just visual, I will find a meter and check once I’m back at the camper, I did read about those checks in the service manual as well, I’m suspecting the lower control Board in the back since I have 12V present for lights inside the fridge, just trying to narrow it down. I’m not electrical at all, give me wood to build something, now we’re talking lol Thanks Kirk and John

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Hey Guys, I figured out the problem with mine and I hope this helps out someone in the future so you can get your rig fixed fast. Dometic, Forest River were not able to to talk me through this so save some money and read this!

My Rig is a 2020 Wildwood Heritage Glen HL. 

My fridge is a Dometic DM2852RBFX.

Issue: Fridge was Deader than disco. No Power at all. 

Solution: Blown 152 celsius/ 303 Fahrenheit Thermo fuse (Not Thermal Fuse aka thermal (hi-limit/resettable) switch)

Cause: Drove home with fridge on propane in windy conditions. 

I know enough about electronics to be able to frustrate myself. I tested fuses, traced 12 volts, replaced both mainboard and eyebrow board and still no luck. 

I ended up finding a tucked away therm-o fuse tucked off of (1) leg of the thermal (hi-limit/resettable) switch on the stack just above the ignition module. Parts available on Amazon for about 10 bucks. You will need to crimp/solder in the new thermo-fuse. 

The Therm-O fuse comes off of (1) leg of the thermal fuse. (Images attached)

 

This is 12 volts DC. Please be smart and make sure breaker is off, battery disconnect is off, and nothing is energized. 

Hope this helps.

Therm-O.jpg

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Just Snake, good information. FWIW Ive had those thermal fuses go bad on LP Gas Water Heaters but never had that problem on a fridge. REGARDLESS if 12 VDC is cut off that causes failures

THANKS FOR THE INFO IT MAY HELP SOMEONE

PB  "I’m suspecting the lower control Board in the back since I have 12V present for lights inside the fridge"

  AFTER insuring its NOT any fuse or connection or a bad ground or low DC voltage problem or the eyebrow has no power CIRCUIT BOARDS CAN GO BAD    FWIW Ive replaced with Dinosaur Brand and never had any of them fail 

John T

 

 

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