yaaintdeadyet Posted July 29, 2019 Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 Our 1996 Lance 480 carries a Dometic 2510 3-way fridge. It has performed well over more than a few long distance trips. Including short trips. Always prepped by a tried and true pre cooling process. We've run the unit on propane while driving. It always kept temp. When stopped it's switched over to 110. On both the fridge has kept the cabinet temp in the low 40's to high 30's. As of now the lowest cooling that takes place is in the freezer. It doesn't freeze, just drops down 10 degree's or so from an initial reading. There's condensation yet no freezing. Previously the freezer would freeze yet the cabinet never reached the proper range. I've cleaned the flue, burner assembly and secured all grounds and wiring.I've done the check for the thermistor. It hasn't registered the correct ohm's during the test. I believe that issue is the thermistor the 2510 has in the cabinet. It's of a design I've never seen. Instead of a flexible wire with clip for one of the fins this model is thin metal. It slides in between the fins. It is similar in diameter to a ballpoint pen tip. It's been bent at different angles in some increments along it's length. We've owned close to a dozen RV's. I've never seen this style thermistor.What I'd like to know from those in the know is. Can I switch this metal thermistor over to the tried and true flexible style with plastic clip.Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted July 29, 2019 Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 The first suggestion that I have is to visit Bryant RV Service, Service Manuals page and download a copy of the manual for that refrigerator. I do have a couple of questions. Have you checked inside of the outside access pannel of the refrigerator? If not, check for any odor of ammonia or yellow residue that would indicate a loss of coolant from the refrigerator. It really doesn't sound like a thermister failure as that will cause the refrigerator to go into a continous cool mode and freeze things inside. (see item 11 of the trouble shooting guide) Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted July 30, 2019 Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 Most times when the thermister fails the refrigerator defaults to constant cooling at its maximum rate. The service manual Kirk pointed you to will be the definitive answer. Quote 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D&J Posted July 30, 2019 Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 If your burner stays on then the problem isn't in the controls but the cooling unit itself. One easy way to check it is to wire the electric element directly to 120V and see of the unit works properly, if it doesn't and it had good air flow in the back the cooling unit had failed. Denny Quote Denny & Jami SKP#90175 Most Timing with Mac our Scottie, RIP Jasper our Westie 2013 F350 SC DRW 6.2 V8 4.30 Gears 2003 HH Premier 35FKTG Home Base Nebraska Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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