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Ok I'm stumped, I'm having a water pressure problem, I have always had good water pressure up till yesterday, I washed my dishes and all was good, an hour later I go to wash my hands and I have a good 2 second blast and then down to a dribble on both the hot and cold, just like that nothing at all the     Faucets, except one the farthest one the bathroom cold water works like it should, now here's what I have done, emptied the HWT and blew air through all the lines, hot and cold, blew air threw and out the fixtures, removed and blew air threw the incoming city water connection, I have no water leaks, I have nothing obstructing the lines, confirmed that by blowing air threw them, I'm stumped

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theres a check valve at the water heater and one on your city inlet I know when the city inlet breaks the plug to stop water goes agaisnt the pipe so water cant get in..a sudden surge will break them.. cheap plastic, I have broke two already

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Remove the aerator on the end of the faucet and clean the sand out of it.

Steve and Joy

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If the problem is only one faucet set, be sure to do as suggested and remove the aerator on it and test again as those quite commonly do collect debris that restricts flow. If the problem is in all hot water faucets but no cold, then I'd look to the check valve on the outlet of the water heater as then are known to stick shut. The check valve on the city water connection could cause a problem but if so it would effect all faucets, both hot and cold. To check that possibility just turn on the fresh water pump and see if it can supply water from the potable water tank in a normal flow. I doubt that blowing compressed air through the water lines would be enough to push the hot water check valve open again as it doesn't take nearly as much to pass air as it does water. 

When you look at the back of the water heater, it could have the check valve on either the cold or the hot as the sticking would be the same effect either way since the cold water pushes out the hot. There are several types that you may find at the outlet and it will usually be threaded into the water heater tank and look like a nipple.

81Ks8+kvP2L._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg61TgxU0XqwL._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg 41j1cIF6T9L._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg 51tziIVYRqL._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg

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I'm betting on the screen on the aerator. sounds like a bit of scale broke loose and got in there . 

That would not explain why he has good pressure on the cold side but not the hot side

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
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8 minutes ago, Big5er said:

That would not explain why he has good pressure on the cold side but not the hot side

He didn't say that . . . He said  . . .  An hour later I go to wash my hands and I have a good 2 second blast and then down to a dribble on both the hot and cold.

Steve and Joy

Amateur Radio Operator WZ1T . . .  Flex 6600 M,  Flex PGXL, Flex TGXL, 

2014 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q . . . Lincoln MKX Toad


The Kids . . . Yogi the Yorkie  passed 10/20/2018. . . Cookie the Chihuahua passed 11/30/2017 . . . Cooper the Aussie Doodle passed 3/10/2020

Abbie  and Abel  the Doodles . . . Brother and Sister Born 02/02/2020   . . . Lucy the Yorkie . . . and Axel  . . .The Bernie Doodle

 

Where We Are Now

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On 5/3/2017 at 2:43 PM, JEEPOHOLIC said:

Faucets, except one the farthest one the bathroom cold water works like it should

 

On 5/3/2017 at 3:05 PM, JEEPOHOLIC said:

still nothing but the bathroom cold water has great flow

Might wanna double check

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~

2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission
singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin
2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 

2014 smart Fortwo

 

 
 
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After re reading the OP I am thinking that it may be possible that the screen on the incoming line could be stopped up instead of the aerator. I suppose its also possible that the PSI reducer has a problem .

I'm basing this on his statement " An hour later I go to wash my hands and I have a good 2 second blast and then down to a dribble on both the hot and cold." this is sounding more like an incoming water supply problem

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  • 1 month later...
On ‎5‎/‎3‎/‎2017 at 4:35 PM, Kirk Wood said:

If the problem is only one faucet set, be sure to do as suggested and remove the aerator on it and test again as those quite commonly do collect debris that restricts flow. If the problem is in all hot water faucets but no cold, then I'd look to the check valve on the outlet of the water heater as then are known to stick shut. The check valve on the city water connection could cause a problem but if so it would effect all faucets, both hot and cold. To check that possibility just turn on the fresh water pump and see if it can supply water from the potable water tank in a normal flow. I doubt that blowing compressed air through the water lines would be enough to push the hot water check valve open again as it doesn't take nearly as much to pass air as it does water. 

When you look at the back of the water heater, it could have the check valve on either the cold or the hot as the sticking would be the same effect either way since the cold water pushes out the hot. There are several types that you may find at the outlet and it will usually be threaded into the water heater tank and look like a nipple.

81Ks8+kvP2L._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg61TgxU0XqwL._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg 41j1cIF6T9L._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg 51tziIVYRqL._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg

the fitting on the far left is and was the problem, you can just see the white check valve inside it, it had failed, I removed it and replaced it and now everything is back to normal, thank you everyone for your help sorry it took so long to get back to you all

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