Travel Supreme..slide out problems

[Fuzz]

2002 Travel Supreme...36ft 4 slides.The large living room slide stalls out on retraction where it comes over the hump.It's level floor when out.Need to help it over the "hump" where it raises slightly above floor from level .

I have increased the potentiometer on controller to max...didn't help....

As you are probably aware...bottom of trailer is covered...Hate to start removing tin without some reason.

When closed it appears to be aligned .It opens OK.Tried some dry lube on tubes.No help.

Again ,just not enough "oomph" to get over the first little hump.Thanks for any help/suggestions.

[Mark and Dale Bruss]

I would call Jerry Ryman at All Brands RV Repair in Elkhart. He had part in the slide motor design. Some where in the timeline before 2003, Travel Supreme beefed up the slide motor. Maybe that is what you need.

[Fuzz]

Thanks Mark,I'll call 'em later today...

[rdickinson]

Fuzz, I have a 40 ' TS. You may have an adapter which if you remove the motor will slide on the rod operating the slides. You can put a 1/2" drill on the other end. That may work. It will have 2 shafts and acts like a differential to change directions of input fron parallel with the frame to coming out the compartment door facing you.

 

Your motor may have issues but I was told the motors are most often not the problem.

 

If you do start switching motors, turn the potentiometer down. If you don't the new motor will shear off the Woodruff key inside. If that happens, the motor will turn but the driveshaft won't. The woodruff key is designed to break first before breaking shafts or gears.

 

The Woodruff key for the bedroom slide is 3/32 X 7/16.

 

Also if you start disconnecting things, label things and take pics. The different slideouts have different colored wiring to confuse things.

 

Barker Engineering, has motors as well as another firm mentioned on the forum a year or 2 ago. There is a guy in Texas who bought up TS parts, I may have contact info. But they shipped me the wrong motor so I got mine repaired instead.

 

Please post your findings as this is also a concern to me, how do we lube or service these things??

 

Another firm to call is Midwest Custom Rv in the Elkhart as well. They are or were former Travel Supreme people so will know them inside and out,

[TreyandSusan]

If there is no binding where the sprocket drives the tube then my GUESS would be a failing controller. After fighting the large slide on our 2002 Travel Supreme this past year. After other fixes (motor replacement because gears in gear box broke - realignment of shaft, repair of broken shaft), the replacement of the controller seems to finally have done the trick. (And was likely the cause of the other issues) The Intellitec folks (controller manufacturer) told me that the controller can lose it's mind. (meaning weird intermittent failures)

The system is not too complex so there are not too many options for failure. So, if the motor is just stopping early with no weird sounds, then I would tend to lean towards controller failure or binding. It is hard to know without seeing with the eyes.

 

A controller (~$130) is less expensive than a motor (~$700) - at least for our system - 2002 Travel Supreme

[rdickinson]

Trey may be right. I'd try switching out controllers before ordering one. The bedroom slide would be the easiest to get to. It will ne in the main panel area. Beige or black. Take pics and label the wires first. Turn down the potentiometer so you don't shear the key when closing the slide. Shut off the power rocker switch so you don't short the potentiometer when hooking and unhooking wires. I've done that.

 

it wouldn't hurt to have an extra one.

[Mark and Dale Bruss]

All the Travel Supremes I have helped with used clevis pins through round shafts that fit into square shafts. None had Woodruff keys.

 

And while the clevis pins often break like a shear pins, they really are not

[rdickinson]

The Woodruff keys are inside the motor Mark. I have pics.

 

As far as the rest of your statement, it is correct.

[TreyandSusan]

Roger,

Do you mean inside the gearbox connected to the motor (on the shaft)? So, to check to see if the key is broken one would have to separate the case that covers the gear/shaft mechanism?

I would like to see the pics if there is a way to show them.

I have an extra motor, which I've replaced, and something is busted inside this gearbox. (shaft will not turn) If what is busted is just a key that can easily be replaced (relatively easily) then I won't have to send the motor in.

[rdickinson]

Yes, inside the motor. Separate the 2 halves, be careful not to damage the gasket. Torx screws. The reduction is so great you won't be able to turn by hand anyway.

 

If you put power to the motor, will the motor itself turn but not the output shaft?? If so, it will probably be the WR key. Lordco carries them.

 

The Machinist who repaired mine the first time told me the Woodruff key designed to break before stripping gears. Like a fuse or tripping a breaker.

Which slideout was the motor from?

 

Bedroom slide is the smallest motor, the other 2 are quite a bit bigger.

 

Do you have the adapter to move the slides by a drill?

 

The bedroom slide can be moved by a 1 -1/8" open end wrench.

 

Pics are on my American phone so I'll see if I can wake it up and send pics to you.

 

R

 

Edit,

https://www.google.ca/search?q=woodruff+key&biw=1536&bih=718&tbm=isch&imgil=5Azkt14312iI5M%253A%253BVmSoGWWT8yJpzM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ecs.umass.edu%25252Fmie%25252Flabs%25252Fmda%25252Fdlib%25252Fmech_comp%25252Fkeys%25252Fwoodruff_key.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=5Azkt14312iI5M%253A%252CVmSoGWWT8yJpzM%252C_&usg=__lz4wNfcGIsnpMkiCnJ1rNS8eOZo%3D&ved=0ahUKEwjLq-uc19nMAhVE8mMKHdzaAM4QyjcIKA&ei=aCk3V8vXLsTkjwPctYPwDA#imgrc=5Azkt14312iI5M%3A

 

Not able to locate pics. This is the best I can do without taking the motor out. You get the idea. My BR slide WR key size is 1/2 X 3/32 not 7/16 X 3/32

[Fuzz]

First off thanks to Mark for the info on allbrands RV.

I started email with these fellows,Corey answered...he sent several emails helping me troubleshoot this rascal.It looks like it might be the controller.He getting me one to try.said it possible still the motor.As stated in my first post.It would move and with someone outside helpinggo over the "hump"from level floor.Messing with it ,I think I might of really fouled up the controller.Now when pushing button no movement,and red light on switch stay on....But ,I put dc power direct to wires to motorl; and slide went in over the hump with no problem..Corey suggested this test.So he is getting me a controller...

 

Bought this trailer used and I have nothing to retract this slide as mentoned by someone in earlier post.

Sure would like to find that...anyone?

 

Good idea about swapping out controller from bedroom slide..When it quits raining will try that....

Thanks all appreciate the help

[rdickinson]

Send me an e-mail address and I'll send a pic of the device used to bypass the motor. Also when I bench tested the motor if there wasn't enough 12v going to the motor, it still would not work. I was using a power supply for electronics which didn't need a lot of amperage.

 

Barker mfg may have an bypass adapter. If not the new guy who bought the Travel Supreme parts business who lives in Texas. Barker would know who that is.

 

https://www.google.ca/#q=Barker+mfg

 

If you didn't take a pic of the wiring before you started disconnecting things, I can send a pic of the correct wiring. If you didn't switch off the power when working on the controller, you may have shorted it and blown it up.

 

I label all wires and take a pic as well, before taking things apart. And shut off the power.

 

You will have 2 red wires going to the controller, the bigger red wire is the 12v power.

 

The controllers can be bought from Intellitec yourself.

 

http://www.intellitec.com/index.php/products/Motor_Controls/Slide_out_room_controllers/

[Fuzz]

Thanks Roger,Pics would be great...Have to admit,I thought I had the switch off on the slide panel but don't know for sure,kinda thnk maybe I didn't ...Where is the bedroom slide controller...Hate to start unloading the wrong compartment,its Sunny today but been raining and lottsa mudholes.

 

My Email: fuzzparten@juno.com

 

 

Thanks again

[Jim & Wilma]

Send me an e-mail address and I'll send a pic of the device used to bypass the motor.

Roger, I'd like to see what you're talking about too. If we had a failure, figured I'd swap controllers or motors or even push the slide in if we had to.

 

pratten@hotmail.com

[rdickinson]

I will type this now and add pics in an hour or so, that would be 1030 Eastern time. I'll send them to Fuzz, he can post them if he can, it's fine by me. I just got out of the Hospital after getting my rt thumb tip joint fused and a 28mm screw or screws down the middle after the punched some holes in my radius us or ulna to "harvest" material to do the graft. I feel like an organ donor but alive when they were taking parts out. Somewhat intense with a local and tourniquet. Rather like typing with a partial hockey glove.

 

I'll send a pic o f the "device", the breaker panel where the controller is along with the tagged wires also the bed slide motor area which will show the round to square adapter so that particular slide can be moved in or out with a 1- 1/8" open end wrench.

 

You will need to disconnect the motors mechanically if trying to move the slides manually. They are so heavy, I'm not optimistic that they can. I doubt they can be moved without being disconnected, the gearing is so low, it takes a lot of power to move them. Someone else can explain it better.

 

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Pics are sent to both of you. The adapter is called and "Ez drive" and it came from Barker Mfg. The drill is on the powered 1/2" shaft the other 2 are what goes into the square steel tube the motor shaft slides into.

 

If there is something not clear, ask. For some reason, I've had a lot of dealings with slideout issues.

 

R

[Mark and Dale Bruss]

Having had to push the 14' main slide in, I can attest that the first couple of inches are the hardest as the weight of the slide has to be lifted.

 

Once the front edge is lifted, the slide moves pretty easy. I used come-alongs to get the slide started.

 

I was doing this because the shaft connection at the first idler had broken, so the motor was disconnected.

[Fuzz]

Darn Roger,so sorry to hear about your surgery..Make me shiver to even think about it...They would of probably had to put me asleep,or in a squeeze chute....

 

Send the pics when you feel better......Rest up some

Fuzz

[rdickinson]

You both should have the pics by now, they were sent an hour ago.

 

You need to make sure the Potentiometer is turned way down when replacing it. If you don't and the slidout is in or out all the way, the motor will try to force it some more and shear off the Woodruff key...I've done it. it depends on which way you hook up the motor. It will work either way.

 

No problem with the hand, the thumb is in better shape than Randy's little finger. The fluffy gauze they use has come apart with the Velcro on my jacket and there is some bleedout from the holes they punched in my arm so I'll change the dressing in the morning.

 

This is one of the reasons we pay more for gas up here, this surgery cost me nothing. 8 people in the OR. 2 plastic surgeons and an anesthetist plus 5 nurses. No complaints here considering injuries people come home with from overseas.

 

Loading the Smart and handling the ramps will be a challenge.

 

MB, how do we lubricate the slideout mechanism, or can we? It's all enclosed and gets deformed when dropping it.

 

Thanks

[rdickinson]

I forgot to post this yesterday but you can bypass the controller by hooking up a rocker switch. A momentary switch. I wound up doing that. A rocker switch like your landing gear switch. That as about 10$ I think. Just hook up the power and ground wires and you are good to go. You will need to hook it up in the motor area.

 

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On edit

Pics of landing gear switch or momentry switch plus wiring schematic sent to Jim. I had to do this last year. Jim can you post info, others may want to see?

 

This will verify if controller is acting up or the motor.

 

Also consider printing this off and keeping it in a plastic binder sleeve under the bedroom slide along with Woodruff keys, EZ adapter, rocker switches, some cotter pins or a safety pin will do, a 1 - 1/8" open end and a controller if you get an extra one. Saves hunting for them when needed.

[Fuzz]

Well darn I would like to have one handy...but as usual I'm not sure how this would work...Hook the 12v power to one side of switch and Ground to the other?I did use a electric drill battery to run the motor but used the Motor 1 and Motor 2 wires...

So if I understand this correctly...The rocker switch would put power to the motor thru the controller ..

Guess that stuff about older and wiser...doesn't seem to be working for me...LOL

[rdickinson]

I took a pain pill so my mind is fuzzy this am.

 

The black and red wire from the motor go to the straight blades of the rocker switch. Doesn't matter which to which. It will run backwards or forwards.

You need the big red power wire off the controller as well as the white ground. Again, it doesn't matter which to which on the slanted blades. The controller is now out of the loop and you are moving the slideout with power thru the rocker switch.

 

You have now bypassed the controller altogether. It is out of the loop.

 

Push rocker 1 way and it goes in, push other side of rocker and it goes out.

You control the pressure when the slide contacts the side of the trailer.

 

If this is not clear let me know. It does work. Turn off power to the slideout before switching things and hooking them up.

 

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pic sent to your e-mail just now.

[rdickinson]

Roger,

Do you mean inside the gearbox connected to the motor (on the shaft)? So, to check to see if the key is broken one would have to separate the case that covers the gear/shaft mechanism?

I would like to see the pics if there is a way to show them.

I have an extra motor, which I've replaced, and something is busted inside this gearbox. (shaft will not turn) If what is busted is just a key that can easily be replaced (relatively easily) then I won't have to send the motor in.

I've been able to locate a couple of pics with the motor apart showing the WR key location. Send me an e-mail adress and I send them. You could post them if you want.

[Fuzz]

Installed new controller...Didn't work...The switch on control panel pushed Led light comes on but no slide movement.

Hooked the Motor wires to a drill battery and slide works like champ.

Checked voltage across the slide switch then compared to working slide switch...they are the same.

It appears that the voltage is not getting to the controller...Figuring on checking voltage between large red 12v wire and ground wire at the controller next...

[Fuzz]

OK.Corey at All Brands RV sent me an email..stating that Travel Supreme put 2 Fuses for the slide on some units.The fuse in the main panel behind the mirror was OK.When I looked under the hitch area I saw none marked slide.After his email I went back and cheked them all (4) found one blown.Forgot what it was marked but now the switch works.The slide still hangs up on the floor bump.

Corey said they had a customer who could r;un the slide in with a drill battery but blew the above mentioned fuse when using the switch.Had to change the motor.I'm not blowing the fuse right now but as it don't work like it "oughta" I will switch the motor with one of the other slides to see if that works...FYI

[rdickinson]

Disconnect slideout mechanism linkage and take the 2 wires from the motor, connect them to a good 12v source and let me know if the motor turns fwd and backwards.

 

Lets see if the motor is OK first.

 

The main power wire will be the bigger red one. There may be 2 red wires.

 

There may well be a second panel on the man door side of the trailer. In my case the fuse panel is in the outside wall of the trailer man door side compartment. There are 3 compartments.. The middle one will take a generator. A hinged wood door with fuses inside.

 

If the motor works, the controller may be set too low. It is a rotary dial and increases power as it is turned clockwise. I sent instructions to your e-mail.

 

If the motor runs but the output shaft doesn't then the Woodruff key is sheared.

 

Motors are not necessarily interchangeable. Check the specs stamped on the motor. It will have amps, rpm plus some other info.