Hayes Brake Controller issues on 06 630

[txdslshop]

I have searched through a number of listings and haven't found any reference to this. Basically I spent a few hours the last couple days installing my Jackalopee and my Hayes Controller in my Volvo. When I powered the controller it immediately illuminated the red light. It periodically blinks the light and nothing is plugged into the RV plug at the back of the truck. I verified there is no air pressure signalling it to activate and I have even removed it from the truck and power/ground from a power supply and same same. According to the directions, it should only activate the light without a trailer connected when brakes are applied or the lever is moved to side. Turning the knob on the lever has not made any difference. I verified it is sending a pit of power to the jackalopee with a test light and the led on jackalopee is illuminated constantly. It is a brand new controller. Any ideas? Hayes Tech support has banking hours and closed at 3:30. Go figure. Thanks for any and all help. Jeremy

[NeverEasy]

I think you need a replacement.

 

My first Hayes controller was bad. Drove my crazy trying to figure out why it had no output and no light unless I manually pegged it into the stops. Got a replacement and all was well.

 

They are extremely simple. Just a wire wound resistor and a wiper that moves up and down on the resistor to change the amount of voltage (and thus current) the brakes get. The knob just moves the wiper up or down on the wire wound resistor to change the starting point.

[txdslshop]

Thanks. I was thinking the same thing as I can pull it hard to the left and the light goes out. I am considering a bit of minor "Exploratory Surgery" to see if I can adjust it some. I am sure not too excited about sending it in for a new one when I am scheduled to make my first trip in a week to go retrieve my 5th wheel from our place at the coast. I was sure hoping to get the feel of the trailer brakes and see how this long HDT is gonna tow. Jeremy

[adept99]

Has anyone made any progress on the "brake applied" light issue for Hayes brake controllers? Ours started to leave the light on but I could stop it by pressing on the slide lever. Jackalopee light also stays on. At this point, no amount of twisting, jiggling, pushing, pulling, sliding, or adjusting will turn either light off. It does not get hot when sitting still, but does get uncomfortably hot to the touch sometimes when driving. (Not dragging the brake)

 

Any Ideas yet??

[sclord2002]

If you open up your controller you will see a contact for the led that is supposed to make contact when the air pressure moves the knob/shaft toward the "brakes applied" position. This contact should not make contact when no air pressure is applied to the controller. You should be able to carefully 'tweak' this contact so that the led does not come on in the deactuated position but makes contact when the controller knob/shaft is moved toward the actuated position. I hope this cryptic description will help. Charlie

[NeverEasy]

Attached (I hope) is a simple drawing of the Hayes Controller. Perhaps it will help diagnose the problem. The important thing to remember is that "open circuit voltage" means there is no current flow and therefore, no voltage drop across any component. If you put a meter across the circuit at any point to ground, it will see source voltage. The LED is this case acts like a meter. Therefore, in your case, the slider has to be making contact with the wire wound resistor (although perhaps in the wrong place) to get 12VDC to light it. If you look inside the cooling holes and can see the slider moving up and down on the wire wound resistor, the problem is likely downstream towards the trailer from the LED.

[NeverEasy]

To add something, this is where a clamp-on DC ammeter comes in handy. Clip it on the wire going to the jackalopee and you will see if the circuit is good and the brakes are actually drawing current, Each magnet will draw a maximum of 3 amps in a perfect circuit with 12VDC applied. On our trucks, the size of wire and length of wire will always prevent full current. In a 4-magnet system the current should be something over 11 amps.

 

I should have shown the jackalopee in the circuit. I don't have a jackalopee so I cannot be certain but this is a variable voltage going to the brakes so it is unlikely that a relay on the jackalopee is used. The jackalopee is just a feed-through connection point and is likely fused.

 

Chet

[NeverEasy]

Sorry, I just can't help it: Alternatively, buy this and mount it. Run the blue trailer brake controller through the blue inductive pickup. This one is good up to 20 amps (three axles or less).

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-Current-Eletronic-Transformer/dp/B00YBX1M40?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

 

 

[txdslshop]

I called Hayes and spoke with their Tech Support guys. They replaced mine under warranty and all is well. I think the "tweaking" should work if your's is not under warranty. They let me keep my old one and I intend to do some "Exploration" to see what can be done to correct it. Jeremy

[NeverEasy]

Getting ready for a trip to SC. Thought I would share a picture of where I mounted my trailer brake controller ammeter/volt meter. I used the module two posts up. Yellow wire is attached to the blue wire going to trailer brakes. Inductive pick-up is around the same wire. So I get a voltage reading and an amp reading of what the trailer is getting. The switch will shut if off if I want to lessen the dash lights.

 

Chet