Double-Trouble Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Not a sight you want to see when you walkout of the trailer the morning after screwing the enclosed belly back on. Acloser look and I see it's coming from the city water hookup. It's been at least 8 years since I have been hooked to city water. Why would water all of a sudden be flowing up hill and out of this connection? I dropped the belly pan to install Sea Level gauges on the tanks, no other modifications were done. This line doesn't run under the trailer, it runs inside the cargo area and connects to the system somewhere near the pump. I need to investigate this some more. Short version: City water connection leaking, water back flowing up hill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch_12078 Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 The city water connection has a check valve that's intended to prevent the back flow when the pump is running. Sometimes the little ball gets gummed up and doesn't seat correctly. With the pump off, you may be able to reseat it by pressing the ball in slightly and letting it snap back a few times. You may have to remove the hose washer first if it has a screen on it. If that doesn't do the job, a garden hose plug from most garden supply shops, even Walmart, will do the job for now. The more permanent fix would be to replace the fitting with a new one, but it's not really necessary. If the store doesn't have a plug on hand, an inline hose valve will also work until a plug is available. Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 I agree with Dutch, and back when I was selling used RV's plus in my own I saw that happen dozens of time, especially in an RV that had set for a while. IFFFFFF (as I read your post) the problem is when your RV's 12 VDC fresh water pump runs you get leakage out the city water fill, the check valve (designed to allow city water in but NOT allow the pump to force fresh water back out) isn't sealing and leaking. Ive also had had some luck pushing/popping them in and letting them seat back out, but that hasn't always worked. It depends on how long they leaked or how corroded or limed up the check valve is. Hey its worth a try and if it doesn't re seal, water inlet check valve combinations aren't all that expensive. THIS IS IFFFFFFFFFFF THE LEAK IS FLOWING OUT THE CITY WATER FEMALE HOSE INPUT CONNECTION????? In the event its NOT a bad check valve but instead the leak is where the water line attaches to the check valve assembly, that may require resealing or re connecting, maybe just needs tightened??????????? Maybe its more a line or hose leaking instead of a bad check valve, WHERE EXACTLY IS THE LEAK?????? Just a few weeks back a friend came to me saying their fresh water pump kept short cycling and water leaked out where the hose fitting was, so I gave them a male hose plug to screw in there which stopped the leak. Or use one of those splitters with the 2 shut off flippers to screw in and stop the leak. John T NOT a plumber so no warranty, see what the experts have to say Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double-Trouble Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Thanks guys I will check it out in a bit and report back. Pump isn't short cycling so that is weird, unless it's only leaking when I am using the pump? Just a coincidence I guess, I was panicking this morning when I saw the puddle until I realized where it was coming from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double-Trouble Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 I agree with Dutch, and back when I was selling used RV's plus in my own I saw that happen dozens of time, especially in an RV that had set for a while. IFFFFFF (as I read your post) the problem is when your RV's 12 VDC fresh water pump runs you get leakage out the city water fill, the check valve (designed to allow city water in but NOT allow the pump to force fresh water back out) isn't sealing and leaking. Ive also had had some luck pushing/popping them in and letting them seat back out, but that hasn't always worked. It depends on how long they leaked or how corroded or limed up the check valve is. Hey its worth a try and if it doesn't re seal, water inlet check valve combinations aren't all that expensive. THIS IS IFFFFFFFFFFF THE LEAK IS FLOWING OUT THE CITY WATER FEMALE HOSE INPUT CONNECTION????? In the event its NOT a bad check valve but instead the leak is where the water line attaches to the check valve assembly, that may require resealing or re connecting, maybe just needs tightened??????????? Maybe its more a line or hose leaking instead of a bad check valve, WHERE EXACTLY IS THE LEAK?????? Just a few weeks back a friend came to me saying their fresh water pump kept short cycling and water leaked out where the hose fitting was, so I gave them a male hose plug to screw in there which stopped the leak. Or use one of those splitters with the 2 shut off flippers to screw in and stop the leak. John T NOT a plumber so no warranty, see what the experts have to say John as you can see in the picture it's definitely coming from the hose connection on the outside of the trailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double-Trouble Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Check valve is bad. I went ahead and ordered this from amazon since I can't figure out how to get the check valve apart. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCQX30?gwSec=1&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 So for those of us that don't know how does the check valve come out of this part? I have demolished the old check valve trying to get it apart. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch_12078 Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 The check valve is an integral part of the fitting. It doesn't come apart separately. Replacing the whole thing is your best option in this case. Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Good looking replacement and its a BRASS CHECK VALVE which I like. If?? there's any threaded connections I have good luck with the white liquid pipe dope/sealer (or Teflon tape), and I like those 90 degree adapters or spring covered short stub hose strain reliefs so its easier to attach the hose. Mine looks a bit redneck (but so am I) but I have a short strain relief hose and my brass pressure regulator permanently mounted so I hook up to city water and I'm protected and ready to rock n roll while others are still messing with connecting their hoses and regulators. John T Still not a plumber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double-Trouble Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 Only threads are the hose that connects to the check valve. The hose is like you use for a sink with the rubber seal inside so no pipe compound needed. The vent and fill hose use clamps. I'm glad they don't come apart because I was feeling really stupid. I am at my shop with a good array of tools, I spent over an hour trying to dissect it after I ordered the new one. It's still together by the way. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch_12078 Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 I wouldn't say they can't come apart somehow, just not in a way that's easily put back together again. Where did I put my die grinder... Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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