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freedomline owners


heavyduty

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Just FYI been chasing a problem with a SM code and audible alarm for 2 months. Finally chased it to brake light switch out of adjustment. Who would have thought. When I hit a bump the brake lights would activate while I was accelerating causing the problem. Lots of hours checking everything and scratching my head for such a simple fix.

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Thanks, Heavyduty. I haven't had that problem, but it's something to keep in mind if a strange SM code shows up.

Phil

 

2002 Teton Royal Aspen

2003 Kenworth T2000 - Cat C12 380/430 1450/1650, FreedomLine, 3.36 - TOTO . . . he's not in Kansas anymore.

ET Air Hitch

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Thanks for the info. That's a lot cheaper than a doubler, eh?

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~

2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission
singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin
2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 

2014 smart Fortwo

 

 
 
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Where is that switch and how is it adjusted? I had to have an adjustment of the brake pedal once because it would bounce and disengage the cruise and it would also set off an alarm. I don't remember a code. Until I had Chance adjust it I used a baby bungy to hold the pedal up higher and solved the problem until I could get an adjustment.

 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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Brad pull the panel off on the lower right side of the steering column. Two torx 25 at top and on 10mm at bottom by floor mat. Look up under your break light switch looks like a spring comming out of it that touches the break peddle when it is applied. More than likely it is adjusted up to far and is activating when you hit a bump and kick your cruse off. What mine was doing is the same but it would avtivate while I was accelerating and the computer was confused and set off a sm code and a audible alarm. To fix it all you have to do is loosen a 12mm bolt above the switch and pivot the bracket back so the spring is not in contact with the brake pedal at all times. Be carfull not to adjust it back to far or your break lights will be slow to come on or your cruse will not deactivate. I was all over and under my truck pulled ever connection apart and cleaned everything and was no help. Then after about the 10th test drive I noticed that after the code went off it would stay on until I came to a stop sign and applied the break and then it would clear itself. Then the light came on in my old brain went back to the shop took 5 minutes to adjust and fixed the problem. After several weeks off every spare moment I had and several cases of Dr Pepper. Hope this helps.

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YOU DRANK MY DR. PEPPER????? :)

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~

2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission
singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin
2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 

2014 smart Fortwo

 

 
 
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Good to know!!! Thanx for sharing!

Don & Fannie

 

2005 Volvo 670, 12sp FreedomLine, "Black Dude", 3.36 axle, Szmyt Wonder-Bed Smart loader,

ET hitch, Jackalopee (original-prototype), BLUE-DOT air-over-hydraulic brake system,

2007 New Horizons F35RLSSS-C (Mor/Ryde-IS, Kodiak disc brakes, 17.5 H tires),

2005 smart fortwo passion

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