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roof sealing choices


charlyhors

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We're hanging out in Florida this fall and winter. Much different from Az - we have been through tropical storms and days of rain. So we've developed a couple of leaks, and I'm seeing that this is the winter to probably reseal joints etc on our 11 y o RV. Primarily redoing endcaps to our EPDM roof and also all seams and vents.

 

I'm considering different products - EternaBond 3" tape, Dicor self levelling - I'm looking at these 2 products for the flat work - end caps and roof vents. The EternaBond tape seems like a desirable product as its a solid piece that shouldn't leak if it seals well. I've heard different responses on Amazon, with some saying it works well, and others saying it doesn't. What is your experience with these products?

 

Also, I have various seams and vents on the vertical walls. Those cant be done with a self levelling dicor as it will just drip down. Should I just use silicone caulk?

 

Thanks for your feedback

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NO to silicon YES to Eternabond tape. I would go with 6" across the seam between the end caps and the rubber membrane. It works best on flat surfaces so you would end it before the curve down the sides. Dicor non leveling caulk would be the choice for the seam around the curve and Dicor self leveling anywhere else on the rubber membrane where Eternabond tape would be difficult to use. Eternabond tape works great anywhere on the roof where it doesn't have to curve. Eternabond will last a long time, perhaps as long as you need it to. Silicon is a poor choice for any uses on the RV as it doesn't stick all that well and has to be completely removed before anything else will stick there. For seams other than on the roof I prefer Geocel RV or Lexan. When you get the Eternabond tape also get the cleaner and primer for the best results.

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Eternabond does work terrifically. Typically, those that are reporting negative results are those that fail to prep properly or use a roller to ensure a good seal. As Roger said.. prep is absolutely key.

 

I use a rubber J-roller that can be had at any home improvement center for $10-$20. It's not an absolute necessity, but it will help provide better results. If prepped properly, you shouldn't ever have to touch your seals again.

 

Around roof fixtures that may or may not need to be accessed/replaced at some point in time I prefer using Dicor. Eternabond is a 'mother' to get off once it's down. Of course.. you could always just cut it at the fixture seam and then just tape back over the existing Eternabond, but that can start looking pretty tacky.

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Very helpful. On our endcap, there are hex screwheads that poke up about 1/4 ". Seems like it would mess up the tape. Should I surround the screw heads with dicor to smooth out the surface and then tape?

 

It's probably not necessary, but I would. The ol.. do it right the first time and never have to do it again thing. Dicors cheap and it certainly couldn't hurt so why not. Just be sure to leave enough time for the dicor to fully cure before taping them over.

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Very helpful. On our endcap, there are hex screwheads that poke up about 1/4 ". Seems like it would mess up the tape. Should I surround the screw heads with dicor to smooth out the surface and then tape?

 

You might consider using screw caps / covers :

 

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Screws-Screw-Covers-Protectors/N-5yc1vZc2an

Goes around , comes around .

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... but at a buck each it seems much more economical to just dicor em. $6 for a tube of dicor will do a LOT of screw heads. ;)

 

I saw only one cap at a dollar and that one probably wouldn't work in this application . The rest are 3 packs or more for the "each" price .

 

Sorry , I should have been a bit more specific :

 

These are about a dime each , after tax :

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pro-Tect-Cap-White-for-1-4-in-Sleeve-and-1-4-in-Hex-Head-Blue-Tap-Concrete-Screw-100-per-Pack-PT4CWH100/205568658

 

And , there's no drying time involved . Put them on and tape over , done .

Plus , if the screws ever need to be accessed , there's no time wasted cleaning heads . ;)

Goes around , comes around .

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And , there's no drying time involved . Put them on and tape over , done .

Plus , if the screws ever need to be accessed , there's no time wasted cleaning heads . ;)

 

Ohh... Yeah! (didn't look closely enough) Those would work great. Excellent point about the heads.

 

Thanks for the tip!

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The manufacturer probably used Dicor self-leveling caulking. Never use silicone on any roof but especially on one that is EDPM as the silicone caulking will damage the membrane and it will not stick when cured.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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The "J" roller is essential to burst the micro bubbles inside the layer of tape. I've used 4" to redo our joints, and the "J" roller makes it much easier to get adequate pressure on the tape to get a good, long lasting seal.

 

I've tried other methods to get down pressure on the tape, but this way really works.

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