Researching Trucks for Full-Time Living

[Jack Mayer]

Doesn't seem to be much "room for discussion" on this forum, especially when FACTS are given

It is all about the numbers. Assuming that one "believes" the published numbers of the manufacturer. I happen to use an HDT because for MY purposes it meets my needs better. BUT, if the numbers work for your choice of tow vehicle then there is nothing wrong with using it. You can have a debate about if a dually or single is better in that "crossover" area, but I believe MOST people would say a dually is ALWAYS superior to a single rear wheel when you get into that grey area where both work and are sufficient. Can one use a single where both would work - sure; that is an individual choice. And for some people a single may be the better choice. But technically a dual will always be a better tow vehicle in the situation where either could be used.

 

As to the forum not being friendly to "non HDTers", with due respect that is simply not the case - in general. Most HDTers will tell you that an HDT is not for everyone. It may simply not meet one's needs or wants. The bottom line is that to select the appropriate tow vehicle one really only has to look at the numbers and make sure they work. Only then can one make decisions based on personal needs, wants and preferences. The numbers have to work FIRST. Most people on this forum are happy to help someone understand the numbers.

[NC Hauler]

Though it's not much heavier, mine unloaded, ready to hook up and go camping weighs in at 9150#...In case of an emergency maneuver or emergency stop, most ALL all towing heavier will need room to stop....been there, done that, pulled the leather out of my butt to prove it when an idiot pulled out in front of me and decided to stop and hang a left...knew we ere going to hit them, slammed brakes on to where ABS kicked in also and steered and came to a stop before hitting anything....guy driving car gave me an obscene gesture and drove off?? I normally tow at posted speed limits, but don't normally tow faster than 65 mph, though I have towed up to 70 mph.. I keep distance between myself and person in front of me to allow for a quick stop, (been driving almost 50 years, experience IS the best teacher). I tow in T/H mode and EB set in "aggressive mode"..I do this safely for the weight I'm towing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I can comment that a 18500lb 5th'er will push a 8800lb dually down an interstate highway downhill considerably further than you think. We drove thru a wreck as it was happening around us. Lost the trailer brakes due to debris on the highway- jagged pieces of a Forerunner barrel rolling in front of us. The truck went into anti-lock, PacBrake engaging, transmission downshifting (auto), and us trying to maintain control without wrecking ourselves or wiping out anybody else. Less than fun.

We are full time, we tow our home with nowhere else to go "Home" too. Having a vehicle that can stop our home with or without its brakes working is important to us.

An HDT is not for everybody. Most, I would say 99% of all the 5th wheels towed, are towed by the big 3 dually pickups. Most without issue.

I would like to see testing on I-70 Colorado- downhill with the "Max" tow rating. First with a set of the cheap drum brakes that most RV's come with, then another test with just the truck brakes.

[NC Hauler]

It is all about the numbers. Assuming that one "believes" the published numbers of the manufacturer. I happen to use an HDT because for MY purposes it meets my needs better. BUT, if the numbers work for your choice of tow vehicle then there is nothing wrong with using it. You can have a debate about if a dually or single is better in that "crossover" area, but I believe MOST people would say a dually is ALWAYS superior to a single rear wheel when you get into that grey area where both work and are sufficient. Can one use a single where both would work - sure; that is an individual choice. And for some people a single may be the better choice. But technically a dual will always be a better tow vehicle in the situation where either could be used.

 

As to the forum not being friendly to "non HDTers", with due respect that is simply not the case - in general. Most HDTers will tell you that an HDT is not for everyone. It may simply not meet one's needs or wants. The bottom line is that to select the appropriate tow vehicle one really only has to look at the numbers and make sure they work. Only then can one make decisions based on personal needs, wants and preferences. The numbers have to work FIRST. Most people on this forum are happy to help someone understand the numbers.

 

 

I understand the numbers and know how to apply them to an application, been doing it since 1970....I post facts based on manufacturers specs..I'm an Engineer, I DO know and understand the numbers and adhere to them to the point that on several other forums that I'm commonly referred to in a very ugly manner as, "one of the Weight Police"..You appear to either not read my post thoroughly, or simply don't understand. I DIDN'T recommend a 3500 SRW over a dually. ..I told OP they could use a dually like mine and if they didn't want a dually, they need to get a lighter 5er.

 

uh...The numbers DO work and that was the FIRST thing I addressed...Just like you, I KNOW that a HDT is a NEED, or a preference, if you want a certain weight unit to tow, THUS the reason, I KNOW the limits I'd tow with MY 3500 Dually..SAFELY. (Safety first). THUS the reason I won't even exceed trucks recommended GVWR, which a LOT of people ignore and go straight to RAWR...thus the reason I'm referred, so lovingly, as "the weight police in some places..

 

So I say day and you say night...You obviously are using a TV that will easily tow your unit safely, just as I am. and again, I REALLY DO understand the numbers and understand how to do weights, math and then apply some common sense to the entire towing equation

[NC Hauler]

 

NC,

 

Several forum posts lately describe some lemon-law buy backs of 13 and later 3500 trucks and it appears that some dealers step-up to the pate but some do not........,such is life......

 

Most of the failures seem to NOT involve the engines but it appears that the rest of the drive train that tows at or near the "newer-enhanced-load-ratings" have serial-drive-train-faults........

 

All makes and models seem to have a few lemons in the populations.......Towing near or max ratings can bring a lightly loaded peach .....into the lemon category at times.......

 

I have found having a good load reserve margin is best.......

 

Drive on...........(Lemons make nice pies.......)

 

 

I'm under my trucks GVWR BY almost 900#, under my GCWR by over 9,000#....WELL under RAWR and tire rating, but again, I use the lessor GVWR to guarantee I'm well under all trucks recommended specs...Don't need a HDH to tow it with.

 

My truck is 2 1/2 years old with, 34,500 miles on it, zero issues and no problems to this point...A LOT of towing 16,950# 5er in mountains of WV, TN, NC and VA, as I mentioned earlier and it's performed extremely well.

[G&K]

A quick question. Is your truck certified against SAE J2708?

 

I'm asking as trusting the numbers on a pre-J2708 truck may not always be a great idea. I'm guessing yours is certified?

 

Geo

[NC Hauler]

Unfortunately a lot of number slinging and an admitted use of 11,000 lbs on a Ram rated 9,750 lb axle led away from what the OP asked.

 

By description, the long stay between two locations means a very serious full-time living. A trailer in the 18K-20K GVWR will be build to the needs of some living. Moving a trailer by a commercial trucker can get expensive, enough to warrant a tow vehicle capable for the trailer.

 

The need for a daily driver can be solved a few different ways. An adequate daily driver truck is possible depending on your expectations. We used a Volvo 770 (very tall) as a daily driver for a while. Other people on this tread have described HDT daily drivers also. Exactly where did HDH come from?

 

The using of an HDT carrying a Smart car is an option if the Smart car fits your daily driver needs. Smart can be too small for some.

 

You can have you mate chase your rig with a suitable car or light truck. If you are toggling between two locations, maybe a car at each location is an option.

 

For 10 years we towed a car behind our trailer. This option requires a tow vehicle for pulling 25K+ lbs. The car adds to the GCWR. Also the trailer frame need to constructed with a 5K lb tow hitch. There are issues like you probably will be over the usual 65' RV length limit. You might amiss of a state double towing law. But it is an option.

 

Many ways to solve you needs. Start with the living conditions. Pick an adequate transport. And pick a daily driver vehicle.

 

 

...??? admitted use of 11,000# on a 9750 # rated rear axle??? WHERE, and by whom??? "I" stated weight on my rear axle is 7770# (drive axle) , over 2,000# under my RAWR...almost 900# below my trucks GVWR. I also stated, just FYI, that the manufacturer of my 11.8 AAM rear axle rates it at 11,500#...I use Ram recommended specs. I don't "sling" numbers, all were printed per manufacturers specs and my numbers by weights at CAT scales.

[NC Hauler]

A quick question. Is your truck certified against SAE J2708?

 

I'm asking as trusting the numbers on a pre-J2708 truck may not always be a great idea. I'm guessing yours is certified?

 

Geo

 

 

Didn't start till 15' model year..My truck is identical to a 2015 like model, ...Towing, weight specs haven't gone down on 14'15 or 16 model. When I purchased my 13, I based towing capabilities on Manufactuers published numbers...they haven't changed since Ram started using J2807specs...In fact, in 2013, none of the big 3 are using SAE J2807 specs

 

Below is a snippet;

 

"Thanks to the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), when car shoppers look at horsepower and torque figures on vehicles, they know that all the automakers are calculating them the same way. However, that isn't the case when it comes to truck buyers and max towing capacity ratings because each company figures the value differently. That practice finally changes with the SAE's standardized J2807 system, though, and Ram Truck is the first one to apply the new test procedure to its entire light- and heavy-duty pickup range.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All models of the Ram 1500, 2500 and 3500 use the new, standardized rating for the 2015 model year, but buyers might not notice too much difference. According to the company, in 99 percent of cases the max towing weights are unchanged or even improve slightly from last year. That's a strong result compared to the 2015 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra that are seeing few increases but mostly decreases under the new testing procedure.

 

"For too long, an uneven playing field existed and towing capacities went unchecked. We're happy to be the only pickup truck manufacturer to align with the SAE J2807 towing standard across our pickup truck lineup," said Mike Cairns, director of Ram Truck engineering, in the company's announcement of the new specs.

 

The new 2015 Ram SAE J2807 towing capacities are as follows:

• Ram 1500 with 3.6-liter Pentastar V6 – 7,600 pounds
• Ram 1500 with 3.0-liter EcoDiesel V6 – 9,200 pounds
• Ram 1500 with 5.7-liter Hemi V8– 10,650 pounds
• Ram 2500 with 6.4-liter Hemi V8 – 16,300 pounds
• Ram 2500 with 6.7-liter Cummins inline-six diesel – 17,970 pounds
• Ram 3500 with 6.4-liter Hemi V8 – 16,420 pounds
• Ram 3500 with 6.7-liter Cummins inline-six diesel – 30,000 pounds

Not only is J2807 meant to create a standard across all truck makers; its tests are supposed to simulate real-world towing for trucks. To achieve a given weight rating, the pickups have to perform certain tests. These include evaluations like a 0-60 miles per hour time allowance, the ability to climb a grade without dipping below a certain speed and some handling checks. Once all of the companies are using J2807, buyers should have a far more accurate idea of towing performance. Scroll down to watch a video of Ram touting its new numbers and read the company's official release.

 

[NC Hauler]

Hey again, I quit...you win, can't take anymore of the 3rd. degree and stating I said things I didn't...Proof is in my post,,,Glenn stated , "IF" I "believe" the numbers..dang, that could go for a MDT, HDH, and on..

 

My whole post boils down to telling OP he needed a dually, or go to a lighter 5er.. I ALSO stated a truck like mine could tow 17,000# 5er he is looking at..heck, if he DOESN'T WANT a 3500 dually, I'd think he wouldn't want a HDH, but maybe I'm wrong ???..I gave no misleading FACTS.., but if it's not a HDH recommendation, one doesn't belong on this forum and mis-statements about what I posted are all over the place..I get it...can't handle the 3rd. degree and non comprehension of my post...

[G&K]

Perfect. Nice to be able to trust your numbers Jim. A few years ago was not the same.

 

Next time around I'm probably heading for a 12,000 travel trailer and an SRW 1-ton will do fine.

 

Geo

 

 

 

Didn't start till 15' model year..My truck is identical to a 2015 like model, ...Towing, weight specs haven't gone down on 14'15 or 16 model. When I purchased my 13, I based towing capabilities on Manufactuers published numbers...they haven't changed since Ram started using J2807specs...In fact, in 2013, none of the big 3 are using SAE J2807 specs

 

Below is a snippet;

 

"Thanks to the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), when car shoppers look at horsepower and torque figures on vehicles, they know that all the automakers are calculating them the same way. However, that isn't the case when it comes to truck buyers and max towing capacity ratings because each company figures the value differently. That practice finally changes with the SAE's standardized J2807 system, though, and Ram Truck is the first one to apply the new test procedure to its entire light- and heavy-duty pickup range.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All models of the Ram 1500, 2500 and 3500 use the new, standardized rating for the 2015 model year, but buyers might not notice too much difference. According to the company, in 99 percent of cases the max towing weights are unchanged or even improve slightly from last year. That's a strong result compared to the 2015 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra that are seeing few increases but mostly decreases under the new testing procedure.

 

"For too long, an uneven playing field existed and towing capacities went unchecked. We're happy to be the only pickup truck manufacturer to align with the SAE J2807 towing standard across our pickup truck lineup," said Mike Cairns, director of Ram Truck engineering, in the company's announcement of the new specs.

 

The new 2015 Ram SAE J2807 towing capacities are as follows:

• Ram 1500 with 3.6-liter Pentastar V6 7,600 pounds
• Ram 1500 with 3.0-liter EcoDiesel V6 9,200 pounds
• Ram 1500 with 5.7-liter Hemi V8 10,650 pounds
• Ram 2500 with 6.4-liter Hemi V8 16,300 pounds
• Ram 2500 with 6.7-liter Cummins inline-six diesel 17,970 pounds
• Ram 3500 with 6.4-liter Hemi V8 16,420 pounds
• Ram 3500 with 6.7-liter Cummins inline-six diesel 30,000 pounds

Not only is J2807 meant to create a standard across all truck makers; its tests are supposed to simulate real-world towing for trucks. To achieve a given weight rating, the pickups have to perform certain tests. These include evaluations like a 0-60 miles per hour time allowance, the ability to climb a grade without dipping below a certain speed and some handling checks. Once all of the companies are using J2807, buyers should have a far more accurate idea of towing performance. Scroll down to watch a video of Ram touting its new numbers and read the company's official release.

[Yarome]

I think where people are saying, "if you trust the numbers" is because some of the "published" numbers just aren't always so. Not so much when it comes to axle's and tech specs, but curb weights and load capacities are pretty much vehicle specific due to various options that may be installed on a particular vehicle. Any of which can/will have an impact on GVWR, CCC and so on. KWIM?

 

The following numbers are bogus, but just to illustrate what the "if you trust the numbers" crowd are saying:

 

A rig has a "published" curb weight of 7k, however, with the off road, tow, and lariat package with 20" tires.. it's "actual" curb weight might be 8k. That extra 1k just skewed every other "published" rating that needs to be accounted for. Your CCC just went from 3k to 2k. So your 5ers pin weight is 2.6k, which by the "published" numbers, you're in good shape, however, in real life you're actually 600# over right out of the gate and just dropped your "actual" towing capacity because the published tow rating is greater than your GVWR will allow.

 

To further muddy the water.. the same examples would apply to your RV's "published" weights and capacities.

 

Pretty simplistic example, but just illustrating the two different "camps". The "do the math by the published numbers and you'll be fine" camp and the "if you trust the numbers" camp who "get an idea" of what their dealing with from the published numbers, but realize it really ain't so.

[NC Hauler]

I think where people are saying, "if you trust the numbers" is because some of the "published" numbers just aren't always so. Not so much when it comes to axle's and tech specs, but curb weights and load capacities are pretty much vehicle specific due to various options that may be installed on a particular vehicle. Any of which can/will have an impact on GVWR, CCC and so on. KWIM?

 

The following numbers are bogus, but just to illustrate what the "if you trust the numbers" crowd are saying:

 

A rig has a "published" curb weight of 7k, however, with the off road, tow, and lariat package with 20" tires.. it's "actual" curb weight might be 8k. That extra 1k just skewed every other "published" rating that needs to be accounted for. Your CCC just went from 3k to 2k. So your 5ers pin weight is 2.6k, which by the "published" numbers, you're in good shape, however, in real life you're actually 600# over right out of the gate and just dropped your "actual" towing capacity because the published tow rating is greater than your GVWR will allow.

 

To further muddy the water.. the same examples would apply to your RV's "published" weights and capacities.

 

Pretty simplistic example, but just illustrating the two different "camps". The "do the math by the published numbers and you'll be fine" camp and the "if you trust the numbers" camp who "get an idea" of what their dealing with from the published numbers, but realize it really ain't so.

Yeah, I really do get what you mean... You're Going to HAVE to use SOME numbers to just get started...I use the truck manufactures recommended GCWR and GVWR, ( I don' base CCC of my truck on RAWR/FAWR...not going to cut into safety factors), so I use trucks GVWR to figure how much pin weight I may be able to handle. Being an Engineer,and in Manufacturing since 1975, I put some faith in specs; concerning my truck, it would be it's GVWR and GCWR..the two I pay most attention to...again I use CAT scales to get real trucks weight. Since 2005, EVERY 3500 dually I was serious about purchasing, (and eventually did),, Part of test drive was to a Certified CAT scale.so I knew what it really weighed before I purchased it. Common sense,some research and math are best tools to use when putting together a towing"combo" AND going to CAT scales and getting real weights.

 

Thus, people who know and understand the numbers will do the weights, i.e., weigh their truck loaded with family, pets, full tanks of fuel and DEF, ( if applicable), hitch, etc..ready to hook up... THAT WAY, they KNOW, how much pin weight they can put on their hitch by using simple math

 

IF people KNOW how to do do the weights they'll purchase a towable and use its GVW instead of a "dry" or "empty" weight to figure what to tow it with... IF a 5er, I figure 22% of 5ers GVW to "ball park" pin weight...yes, that's a "guesstimate", but FAR more accurate than a "dry pin weight".

 

The above is how I matched my truck to my 5er. If my truck wouldn't ' have been able to handle this 5er, I'd went to a lighter 5er because I didn't want to buy another truck, thus the the reason I ordered my 13 the way I did...Cummins, (GVWR 14K), with medium duty Aisin tranny, 4.10 gearing' (with idiotic GCWR of 37,500#... no, I'd NEVER go there), long bed, crew cab, 4-wheel drive dully, with tow package, including frame mounted puck system to attach hitch to....my retirement truck:)

[Jack Mayer]

 

 

I understand the numbers and know how to apply them to an application, been doing it since 1970....I post facts based on manufacturers specs..I'm an Engineer, I DO know and understand the numbers and adhere to them to the point that on several other forums that I'm commonly referred to in a very ugly manner as, "one of the Weight Police"..You appear to either not read my post thoroughly, or simply don't understand. I DIDN'T recommend a 3500 SRW over a dually. ..I told OP they could use a dually like mine and if they didn't want a dually, they need to get a lighter 5er.

 

uh...The numbers DO work and that was the FIRST thing I addressed...Just like you, I KNOW that a HDT is a NEED, or a preference, if you want a certain weight unit to tow, THUS the reason, I KNOW the limits I'd tow with MY 3500 Dually..SAFELY. (Safety first). THUS the reason I won't even exceed trucks recommended GVWR, which a LOT of people ignore and go straight to RAWR...thus the reason I'm referred, so lovingly, as "the weight police in some places..

 

So I say day and you say night...You obviously are using a TV that will easily tow your unit safely, just as I am. and again, I REALLY DO understand the numbers and understand how to do weights, math and then apply some common sense to the entire towing equation

My statements were general in nature and not directed at you or any other individual. I was actually reinforcing what you said. Too many people do not understand tow weights. It really is quite simple once you understand some of the acronyms.

[NC Hauler]

My statements were general in nature and not directed at you or any other individual. I was actually reinforcing what you said. Too many people do not understand tow weights. It really is quite simple once you understand some of the acronyms.

Thank you, we're in agreement and I apologize for getting so defensive about some of the post.

 

Jim

[GlennWest]

Don't know how you equate length to RAWR...first time I've heard that one .. at 80 psi,(4 tires) my RAWR is 11,500# per the manufacturer of the rear axle, AAM...BUT, I'm under my trucks GVWR my over 800#. no where near RAWR, even at 44'. if that's what you go by,,

Sorry for the lateness of posting back. Working and got short time on forum. I stated my sisuation because it was stated that no one needs an HDT for 40' fthers. Mine is a good example. 5thers vary a lot of weights. Most of our storage is in the front area also. Nature of 5th wheels. We are full time so lots in storage. Adds to pin weight. Tetons tend to be weighty on pin also.

[NC Hauler]

Sorry for the lateness of posting back. Working and got short time on forum. I stated my sisuation because it was stated that no one needs an HDT for 40' fthers. Mine is a good example. 5thers vary a lot of weights. Most of our storage is in the front area also. Nature of 5th wheels. We are full time so lots in storage. Adds to pin weight. Tetons tend to be weighty on pin also.

 

 

I never stated that. I know my numbers and pin weight, so I KNOW I'm under weight ratings on my truck...one of the most important weights to me IS pin weight. Last 5er I towed was almost 40'' long, had 4. slides and weighed in at 16, 400# and pin weight of just under 3500#... Never had an issue going up or down mountainous roads...weight nor length were an issue...Tetons are heavy to be sure.

[GlennWest]

Wasn't addressing you on saying one needed a HDH, that was to Glenn...and Wow, $100,000!!!, don't know where you're from, but glad I'm nowhere near , but you can purchase a loaded out (top of the line) Ram 3500 DRW/LB/ 4X4/Laramie Limited with Aisin, 4.10, whole ball of wax all day in mid to upper 60K range all day in a 4 to 5 state radius. A truck like mine, in mid to upper 50's, possibly low 60's on a 16'. , A Laramie in low to mid 50's.. and if you don't want fancy and a lot of the bells and whistles, you could have the dually in low to mid 40's...

that is your post

Again, if you need the HDH to tow your 5er with and it meets all your needs...That's great... I can use my truck as I stated, and like I need, 365 day's a year. Take it tp work, shop, go to church, park it in enclosed carport, ( no door) beside the wife's car.

 

i stand by my facts...it's there for the research..All I stated was, "You don't need a HDH to tow a 19,000# GVW 5er with...nothing more, nothing less..'MY truck will tow it easily and mine is a 3500 dually"..It's a fact that is there for the research whether you agree with it or not.

[GlennWest]

What does HDH stand for? Heavy duty truck is hdt

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

I've had several people call the truck a HDH- Heavy Duty Hauler as apposed to HDT. They thought that a dually pickup was a hdt-heavy duty truck.

At least they didn't say LGT

[GlennWest]

Had never seen that before. Makes sense

[NC Hauler]

What does HDH stand for? Heavy duty truck is hdt

Forgive me, I've seen it presented more than several way's....as you can see, I'm not part of this forums "clique "

 

HDH.....Heavy Duty Hauler

HDT......Heavy Duty Tower or Heavy Duty Truck

 

Trucks designated 150/1500, 250/2500 and 350/3500s, are, in reality really considered light duty trucks, Though the Cummins engine and the Aisin tranny are both considered medium duty diesel and transmission ...The Ram 3500 has same GVWR as a Ford F450, a medium duty truck....

 

My truck, as I very well know, and have never stated other wise is a light duty truck...the emblem that says "heavy duty" is nothing more than some bling..."I've" known all this for quite a few years.

[GlennWest]

I was just asking. No criticism

[NC Hauler]

I've had several people call the truck a HDH- Heavy Duty Hauler as apposed to HDT. They thought that a dually pickup was a hdt-heavy duty truck.

At least they didn't say LGT

Whose "they"?... I' NEVER heard anyone call a 350/3500 dally A HDH, never, I personally don't know anyone that would allude to a 3500/350 dully pick up as being same as a Semi/HDH, and I've been towing for Over 40 years..Must have been uninformed brand new rv'ers, or not very smart... Almost all I know that own the 150/1500, 250/2500 and 350/3500 series trucks, (INCUDING 350/3500 DUALLY's), KNOW THEY ARE ONLY LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS....IT WOULD BE ABSURB TO THINK OTHERWISE, ( a lot of us are actually educated and grow and change and learn with the changing times, or we wouldn't have survived). Anyone who has been RV'ing for a while knows these things..but if one wants to continually dig at others, the above quote would be one way to do it.?

[NC Hauler]

I was just asking. No criticism

 

Over the many years I've been camping, and visiting camping forums, I've heard, HDH, HDT...even ran into campers using a HDH towing their Teton and alluding to their hauler as a Semi.....

[Yarome]

Part of test drive was to a Certified CAT scale.so I knew what it really weighed before I purchased it. Common sense,some research and math are best tools to use when putting together a towing"combo" AND going to CAT scales and getting real weights.

 

That's a good tip and should be a part of any pre-purchase check for anyone that plans on using their rig as a TV.

 

The other common misconception is when folks think that having 4WD and an off-road package somehow increases their towing and payload capacity.

[NC Hauler]

That's a good tip and should be a part of any pre-purchase check for anyone that plans on using their rig as a TV.

 

The other common misconception is when folks think that having 4WD and an off-road package somehow increases their towing and payload capacity.

A COMMON misconception??,? Not by most knowledgeable campers that I know...and if one did believe what you alluded to, that person doesn't understand that a 4 wheel drive truck is heavier than an identical 2 wheel drive truck, due to extra components added to MAKE-it a 4 wheel drive truck., taking away from CCC......it's really obvious to most of us...In fact, my truck , comparing 3500 duallys in like trim to each other...the manual tranny equipped truck weighs less, the 68RFE equipped automatic weighs less than the Aisin tranny equipped truck...crew cab weighs more than reg. Cab, mega cab is heaviest...truck configuations, and they're a lot of them, AND trim level, affects weight of the truck, which can add or take away cargo carrying capacity....it should be obvious to most..thus the reason I weigh my truck before I purchase it, (good $10 investment).

 

Me personally? I chose 4 wheel drive because we get snow and I don't miss work...so I put truck in 4 wheel and go...4 wheel drive in high has gotten us out of some wet, muddy places several times over the years while towing.... I really don't go , "off road" with truck, especially when towing..