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Slideout removal


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I have a major problem with my slideout. We think that a water leak that we discovered a few years ago did more damage than we realized. Our slide rollers are no longer touching the bottom of the slide so our slide is on metal trying to slide out. We have to push that side in order for it to go out. The floor in that are is probably going to have to be repaired. My question is how is the slide removed or if the slide has to be removed? I am trying to get hold of Newmar to find out some more information so I know what time frame I am looking for for repair and who I should take it to. We live in this full time so I am assuming we cannot stay in it while it is being repaired. We are heading back to San Antonio area from Alaska with alot more repairs but this is the major one. Does anyone have any information on the slides or a good repair place around the San Antonio/Austin area?

 

 

Thanks

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Here is some perspective about slideout repairs and what you might get into in the process. I have a King of the road with Aluminum framed slides so no structural damage from my water leaks. I replaced a 2 foot section at one end without removing the slide on my living room slide. My bedroom slide floor at the ends has rotted but that is a different type of slideout. I will be tackling that in the next few weeks.

 

On my unit, the outer edge of the living room slide floor rests on an aluminum support the full length of it so it is possible to remove the whole floor and replace it without removing the slide. The youtube links have a few repairs where they show step by step how to do this without removing the slideout. See: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=slideout+repair

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Most likely you do not need to remove the slide. I have replaced a few floors in slide outs and never removed the slide.

One time I rebuilt a bed room slide and all that was good was the roof and the fiberglass on the walls. Rebuilt the room while the slide was still in the unit.

If you want to stop in Kalispell Montana I could take a look at it. I do RV repair in the area.

 

 

Safe Travels, Vern

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Maybe push the slide out all but 6"and remove the trim edge. Then extend the slide to the normal position out. Unfasten the slide from the rails after there is blocking between the rails and the floor of the slide. Also support the rails from the ground. Do the repair and reverse the procedure.

Just a thought even if it helps someone else.

 

 

Safe Travels, Vern

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There used to be a really good repair service in Seguin, TX, not far from SA. I tried to Google them but couldn't find them right off. Perhaps someone has their name.

 

In Amarillo (which I know is a long way to SA) is Rodfather's RV Repair (They started out doing hot rods in another lifetime). Michael Lewis is the owner. They do big time, in depth repairs and I am sure they could handle it. They do good work, although perfection takes time. They are in west Amarillo, just off of IH-40. He works closely with an excellent RV tech shop, in case he gets something he has trouble with, but with his shop doing a lot of collision repair, they do a lot of take apart--rebuild.

 

 

 

Rodfather's
2900 Climer Cir, Amarillo, TX 79124 (806) 331-2765
(No, I'm not "kin" just a satisfied customer)
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This may or may not work in your application but this is what I did recently. I worked on one that had the problem of the slideout grinding on the outer metal edge, something like aluminum flashing. The slide had ground thru the aluminum.

 

We got a couple of bottle jacks and some blocking under the slideout when it was deployed out. We jacked the slideout up as far as it could go until it hit the top of the opening. About an inch and a half or so. We saw the roller tracks left on the underside of the slideout and fastened 3/8" thick by 7" wide and 3' long pces of Teflon type material from the Plastic Shop to the underside covering the roller tracks, countersunk the screws. This jacked up the slide so no more grinding on the outer edge of the trailer.

 

The damaged outside metal edge, we could not replace or remove without slideout removal so we got some extra sticky decal material from 3M and stuck it on top and down the side a couple of inches all across the opening. 2 layers of it. Bringing it down the outside enough to cover the crunch at the top but not below the outside flange of the slideout.

 

We also injected some of this Rot Fix material into the areas ground thru on the metal edge....did that before the tape was applied.

 

At your current state, if your slide out operates like mine, you could be applying a lot of pressure/strain on the motor which could cause the spline or keyway to shear.

 

Like I said if yours is a similar setup to mine.

 

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There is another longshot, your rollers may be adjustable. If you jack up the slide out you may see a hex head on the front of the roller bracket facing you. It would take a socket and extension to turn the hex head one way or the other to raise or lower the slide out.

 

 

 

Good luck with it.

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