phoenix2013 Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Nasty air leak in the fan clutch. Open the hood, put hand just behind the fan, feel steady air stream. Empties tanks in five minutes, compressor , real trooper, keeps up with the front tank (and the rear tank), I'm assuming not for too long. Any suggestion on how to fix it, or get it fixed and what to expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porky69 Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Make sure it is actually the fan clutch before doing anything, the control line air fitting (and the line itself) have been known to leak from time to time. If it is the fan clutch I would bite the bullet and install either a new one or a remanufactured unit(with warranty). You may be able to buy a rebuild kit but from my personal experience they don't last and won't have any warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix2013 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 There was an air leak in the line feeding the fan clutch (rubbing against the belt), I fixed it. The leak definitely comes from the fan assembly. Curious how involved the fix is, for instance, does the radiator need to come out to get at things. My experience with Volvo servicing is that ease of getting to things to repair/replace them was not high on their design criteria. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolpsaddles Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Make sure it is done right, have heard of fans coming off and going into the rad. Makes a costly mess. 2005 Western Star, MDE 4000 ,singled mid, 12' deck with Smart CarBison Stratus 3 horse with 16' short wall 12' slide out http://www.spottedhorsegallery.com/http://www.campingandhorses.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Mark Bruss had his rebuilt at one point. 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 If the air is leaking, most likely the bearings are going out. Check for wobble in the fan and FIX IT NOW. Spin the fan--can you hear the leak change as the fan spins? On my '97 WIA, it was just a matter of : A: loosen the belt B: CAREFULLY reach in and unbolt the fan. Wear glove to protect your knuckles from the radiator fins. C: Gently set the fan forward into the shroud. D: unhook the airline E: remove the 4 bolts holding the belt pulley and fan clutch assm. and lift it out. F: remove the clutch assm from the belt pulley assm. About a 30 minute job each way-slow and easy. If you did not have adequate clearance to the radiator to get the fan bolts out--that could be a PITA. I chose to replace--it was just easier. And this was my work truck so its all off taxes! I should note that (on mine at least) the bearings that hold the belt pulley are different than the fan clutch bearings. The belt pulley bearings were fine, I just replaced the clutch assm. No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewhoknowslittle Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Just rebuilt mine, took more than 30 min to do mine, but could do another one in less time, the kit was about 350.00. Make sure you remove the air line brass fitting before you put the unit in the vise, yes I broke mine. instructions in kit will walk you through it, no problems.. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix2013 Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Just rebuilt mine, took more than 30 min to do mine, but could do another one in less time, the kit was about 350.00. Make sure you remove the air line brass fitting before you put the unit in the vise, yes I broke mine. instructions in kit will walk you through it, no problems.. Roger Thanks Roger, that's the kind of "confidence builder" I needed. Is the kit Volvo / year specific, or also engine specific, I have Cummins N-14 in mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porky69 Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 It is fan hub specific. Which is determined by year, make and engine model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beyerjf Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Different clutches vary in complexity and ease of rebuild. It is such an important part and if it fails can do so much damage to the surrounding components and people i would not consider anything other that the OEM(vendor) remanufactured part. I just replaced the Horton clutch on the 12.7 Detroit in the Argosy last summer. It was possible to do without removing the radiator but had to be done quite carefully. the radiator can be damaged very easily. Jeff Beyer temporarily retired from Trailer Transit 2000 Freightliner Argosy Cabover 2008 Work and Play 34FK Homebase NW Indiana, no longer full time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Just rebuilt mine, took more than 30 min to do mine, but could do another one in less time, the kit was about 350.00. Make sure you remove the air line brass fitting before you put the unit in the vise, yes I broke mine. instructions in kit will walk you through it, no problems.. Roger The cost of the rebuild kit has me surprised. I never would have thought it would cost that much. What would new cost ? Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 It is fan hub specific. Which is determined by year, make and engine model. And then somebody changed it. I got the "right" clutch for my truck VIN...and it was completely wrong for the one that was on there. I finally did my own research, figured out what I had by specs, and then took that to the dealer. I would have had to change a bunch of stuff to put it back to original...besides the OEM clutch was twice the cost of the one I needed. Phoenix...I remember finding some videos on Youtube showing the rebuild procedure for certain models. I don't think it would be hard. IIRC the thing that made me decide to go new was my clutch "V disk" was worn out as well. The cost of a new clutch disk and the rebuild kit wasn't a lot less than a whole rebuilt clutch. No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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