coyote Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 I just picked up 2 Solar Panels to add to my system but the MC4 connectors have been cut off. I was wondering the best way to connect the wires together to run from the panel to the combiner box. I've never been great at soldering. I've seen the waterproof wire connectors that have silicone in them such as these: http://www.amazon.com/King-Safety-62225-Waterproof-Connectors/dp/B000BW0YG2 . Has anyone used these for on the roof connections or is there a better way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don&penny Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 When we had to make waterproof connections at work on our instrumentation cables, we would wrap the connections with self fusing tape (essentially RTV that comes in a roll, that fuses with itself when stretched tight. It didn't matter what type of connector was used for the wires. It worked well in water and jet fuel. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wa_desert_rat Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 I would buy the proper connectors. You can get them at Amazon pretty reasonably. They do need to be soldered but it will help you considerably when you need to trouble shoot the system. http://www.amazon.com/Pairs-Female-Solar-Panel-Connectors/dp/B00A8TRKJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425010926&sr=8-1&keywords=solar+panel+connectors If you have to parallel your panels you can also get these: http://www.amazon.com/RENOGY%C2%AE-Branch-Connectors-Solar-connector/dp/B00BCWRB48/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425010926&sr=8-2&keywords=solar+panel+connectors The only alternative I know of would be heat-shrink butt connectors that are just like regular butt connectors but after you crimp them you put a heat gun to them and they contract around the insulattion. But if you really want them water tight then do the tape trick Don posted about afterwards. However, I really suggest you use the proper connectors. WDR 1993 Foretravel U225 with Pacbrake and 5.9 Cummins with Banks 1999 Jeep Wrangler, 4" lift and 33" tires Raspberry Pi Coach Computer Ham Radio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaHybrid Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 I always used crimp style, heat shrink, waterproof marine splice connectors. Crimp them in place and shrink with a heat gun or flame. They are waterproof and will not corrode. Similar to these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-3M-Heat-Shrink-Butt-Connectors-Marine-Electrical-Wiring-Waterproof-22-10-AWG-/380793143433 A boat supply or repair place should be able to sell you a few if you don't need large quantities.... 2017 Kenworth T6802015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites2016 Smart Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 There are all sorts of products and methods available to splice electrical conductors making them supposed waterproof, but I figure if you use heat shrink sealed over with fusible or liquid tape or silicone etc., you have doubled your chances of sealing the connection. Of course, if you choose the type of connections and splices the solar industry normally uses (so long as waterproof) that's fine, but again they are not MAGIC or an exclusive method required just because the energy source just happens to be SOLAR. NOTE there's nothing magical or mysterious about the fact the conductors are conducting current generated by SOLAR panels versus any other energy source, so use common sense and good procedures. Likewise, if the conductors are properly sized to handle the current with acceptable voltage drop there is again nothing magic or mysterious about SOLAR generated current versus other energy sources. There is an advantage, however, if all the methods and connections and splices and unions used throughout a system are industry standard it makes things easier when its time to repair, upgrade or troubleshoot. John T Longggggggggggg retired Electrical Engineer so no warranty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 You got some good answers above. You can find heat shrink butt connectors. Home Depot and Lowes often have them. Or look on Amazon. These produce a soldered joint with just a good heat gun. They work well electrically, but they do not provide a lot of strength to the joint. If they shrink down properly you have more than you think (strength) but they are still not at the performance level of a PROPERLY crimped connector. However, they ARE probably as good as a crimp with the typical pliers. I typically use a silicone filled crimp connector and put adhesive heat shrink over it. If I don't have an silicon connectors I put a good anti oxident like NOALOX on the wires and crimp them. Then seal them with adhesive heat shrink. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 I've lost the link to a crimp butt connecter inside heat-shrink tubing that is coated internally with wateproof glue that is heat-activated when a heat gun is used to shrink the tubing. I read about it on irv2.com, I'll try to locate it. edit: I found it_ http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Electrical-Insulated-Adhesive-Connectors/dp/B000S2040G 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coyote Posted February 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Thanks for all the good suggestions. It really helped. I feel better prepared to do the wiring I need to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Joe Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 I have used the Ancor adhesive lined butt connectors quite a bit in marine applications. Many of them in the bilge of boats for pumps, etc. where they are submerged in salt water much of the time and have had very good results from them. Just a couple of things I have learned over the years from using them is to crimp them firmly, but make sure not to cut through the covering, and use a good quality crimp tool with the proper size crimper jaws. Also, when heating them to shrink them and heat the connector evenly around it to make sure the adhesive oozes out evenly around the wires to completely seal and waterproof it. Good luck with the project!!!! Capt Joe 2004 Winnebago Brave 32v on WH20 Chassis w/8.1L and Allison Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscans Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 I have used standard heat shrink but with hot glue run over the connection just before the tubing was slid into place. The heat gun will remelt the glue as the tubing is shrunk so it becomes a waterproof, monolithic structure when it cools. You want to move fast once you apply the glue however. Did it because I couldn't find the good stuff and had to seal just behind the front grill. It did work great. Happy Trails, Florida Mike EXPERTS AREN'T!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimalberta Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 On my fiver when I installed the solar I bought a pvc waterproof junction box and some seal tite conduit with waterproof connectors. Inside the junction box I used buss bars so no splices were used. The buss bars I used each had extra spots for future additions. <p>....JIM and LINDA......2001 American Eagle 40 '.towing a GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 with RZR in the rear. 1999 JEEP Cherokee that we tow as well. IT IS A CONTENTED MAN WHO CAN APPRECIATE THE SCENERY ALONG A DETOUR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscans Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 On my fiver when I installed the solar I bought a pvc waterproof junction box and some seal tite conduit with waterproof connectors. Inside the junction box I used buss bars so no splices were used. The buss bars I used each had extra spots for future additions. Because of the damaging affects of the sun on plastic I have been painting exterior plastic items with a coat of exterior house paint for several years now with good results. usually no need for neatness just keep the plastic out of the sun but of course you can select your color of choice before you start. Happy Trails, Florida Mike EXPERTS AREN'T!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliott&vicky Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 The secret to crimp is to use a rarcheting crimp tool. This and the ancor crimp fittings with the shrink tubing built in is the best way. I've had several of these connectors in the bilge water of my lobster boat for several years with no problems at all. 2014 Redwood 36RE 2013 RAM SLT DRW, Cummins, ASIN 2001 Dodge SLT Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djnorton Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 3M Crimp & Seal connectors can be purchased at Wal-Mart. These meet military specs and will never leak or come apart. You need good criers and a small heat gun. Don't motorhome with out them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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