Jump to content

Recommended Posts

We have a Norcold 1200 LRIM (1200 w/ice maker).

Recently put in a new Norcold Cooling Unit (old one leaked out yellow/no cooling).


-Put it all together and everything worked great.


-Decided to instal circulation fans to the interior (attaches to the fins in fridge).

Tested fans first and worked fine, but they ran in reverse. So I reversed the polarity and checked again.


-Everything shut down. Turns out I blew the 5amp fuse on the circuit board (automotive style pull out fuse).


-Replaced the fuse and thought I would check the 3amp glass (tube style fuse) also located on the circuit board.

I pulled the fuse and checked for continuity. It was good. I forgot to reinstall it before I reassembled everthing and re-started the fridge.


-I got the first "no ac" error message on both the auto and the ac setting. The LP worked just fine.


-I remembered the glass fuse and disassembed and put the fuse on the circuit board. After I reassembled everything and turned the fridge on, I still got the "no ac" error and LP works fine.


Please help!

Do I need to clear this error before it will recognize ac?

I have ac to at the plug (I know because it bit me while trying to connect it by feel).



Link to comment
Share on other sites

do you have a volt meter. If no you need one. Then learn how to use it.

With the meter test for voltage at the outlet, then at the fuse on the board. Then make sure that there is AC power at the connectors that the fuse sits in. I have seen those corrode as to not pass power. Yes a little sand paper may get them to work.Then if you have power on the connectors then test for power at the spade connection coming out of the board for AC power to the heating elements. If you have power to the spade connectors[ both spades as I think that fridge has 2 elements]. Then are the grounds hooked up. You need to follow the path of AC voltage to determine what is wrong.

Be careful with the AC power to not creat another problem.



Safe Travels Vern

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the Escapee forums. We have some pretty experienced folks here so should be able to help you and we will give it our best shot. My first suggestion is that if you do not have a copy, visit the site of Bryant RV and download a copy of the 1200 service manual.


The fans that you added are powered by 12V-dc, I would assume? If you look on page 40 of the manual it shows a picture of the power circuit board and you can see the two fuses on it. Both are 5A but the glass one to the left is for 120V-ac and the blade type to the right is for 12V-dc power. One would tend to think that it was the dc which was blown since the fans are dc powered. If there is no dc power the refrigerator will not operate.. The "no ac" makes me suspect that you still have no 120V power to the system. If there is none, you should still be able to get the until to operate on propane. I would try selecting propane.


I also suggest that you need to get out your meter and take some readings of voltages. If that ac fuse is not seated properly it would give the error that you have and the only way to be sure there is power out of that fuse is with a meter. Read from the supply side of the fuse holder to ac return and you should see 120V and then across the fuse holder and it should read 0V if the fuse is good. You can also read from the other side of the fuse to return as a second check. Since you had that fuse out, that is what I would check first.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info.

I have an analog meter and checked the outlet, shows 120v.

It does works fine on LP.

The interior circulation fans are 12v.

It was the 12v DC fuse that blew.

All was fine until I started mokeying around with the fan.

Then to add to it I decided to pull the glass A.C. fuse.

Since it is an AC problem I will follow your advice and concentrate on this fuse/fuse holder, and how well it is seated.

I don't like removing the circuit board cover. There is little room and I have to be cafeful not to allow it to drag across the circuit board components.


I downloaded the manual from the link provided. Good to have as I usually do my own work. Sometimes I get myself into trouble. I need to remind myself:

"If it ain't broke don't fix it"!


Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is something to do to that cover that will make it easier to work with. If the customer will allow me to I cut a connecting piece of plastic on the bottom of the cover where the AC lines are at so you can work on board without removing the AC heater wires.

But you need to remove the cover first to remove that piece of plastic.

That cover is fun to work with.



Thanks, Vern

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Vern,


I know exactly what you are talking about.

I thought of doing it but figure once I replaced th fuse I would never have to emove the cover again (since I haven't for the last 14 years).

As it got darker and darker outside it turned out I removed the cover ~ 4times. I just wanted to finish while I could see.

I will have to remove it again today so I will be sure to follow your advice.


I visited our located RV tech yesterday. He recommended I "reset" the board. I've seen info on this.

I found a Norcold Tech Buletin describing how to do this (using a jumper wire). This procedure is defined for a "no co" error (no cold).

I see no reason why it shouldn't work for my situation. I'll check w/Norcold to see. They may not tell me the answer, I realize that but I'll try anyway.


Tanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you go to Bryant RV you can access the service document for your fridge. Start reading about page 43. I did read on the documents and found you can access the amp draw on your control display on the interior display.

I do not think that board is resettable like some other boards but I may be wrong. If I was at the fridge I would be checking at the AC voltage and amperage on each element.



Happy New Year, Vern

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe one of your 2 120 volt heating elements has gone bad. This is what it was on our 1200 when I got that code. Unplug one at a time from the board and see if the code goes away. If it does then you can get a replacement element and install it. I would do them both at the same time and be done with it.



USA Master Sergeant Ret.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can also measure the resistance of the ac heat elements. There are probably two of them and they should be about 64 ohms each. If you do that, also measure the resistance of each lead to ground as well since sometimes dirt & rust can fall into them and short them out which will also cause an error code. A poor connection of them could also cause your problem if you don' get then connected back up properly.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure



Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Check AC before ans after the AC Fuse. It was ok. No power to the heater element spades. Heater elements check ok with ohms meter.

After check all I decided the board is bad.

Got a new board.

Thenks all for your help.

Hopefully this will fix it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

RVers Online University



RV Destinations

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

RVTravel.com Logo

  • Create New...