Rotorhead

Yep. So far it is a good truck. Of course she needs a lot of attention. This job didn't require too many tools. 24 & 30 mm sockets and wrenches. (I only have up to 24 though), a couple breaker bars with a pipe for added leverage and a ratchet. Those were for the mount itself. For the wheel well just a basic socket set will do. I believe it was 11 and 12 mm sockets for mine. There were about 6 little bolts holding the wheel well in place. You can see in the picture how much room you have on the outside. The bolt head inside the frame is tight due to the starter being right there. Harbor freight or Lowe's are good places to start picking up some tools.

I completed my cab mounts with new bushings. All in all a very easy job. The only issue I had, I had on both sides. The lower front nut on both sides was extremely difficult to get off. The drivers side I ended up having to cut a chunk out of the nut on two sides. It started turning again after that. So I need a new bolt and nut to replace it. The only thing I can guess is that it was over torqued when it was installed. And I was basically doing a cross thread in reverse, if that makes sense. Anyway, it should be a big improvement in the ride since the cab won't be loose anymore. I attached a picture of the bolt and you can see the shiny flat spot. There are actually a couple of them. And a picture of the new mount during the install.

The front cab mount bushings.

I finally got started on my cab mount bushings. I started on the passenger side. It wasn’t too hard. A little tight because I didn’t want to take the tire off. One of the 4 frame nuts was extremely difficult to take off, almost like it was cross threaded or had some debris in the threads. Everything else came right off. Now for the drivers side. I imagine those were a big part of the noises I have been hearing.

Fortunately I had the tools for this. Got the passenger side done today. Took about 4 hours. It was shot. Probably would have gotten done sooner but one nut was extremely difficult to turn. And I’m no spring chicken anymore. Oh, mine is a 780 as well, 2010.

I agree. Get the vacuum and make sure it will hold. I have made good use of my air conditioner tools so far.

Hopefully not. But I could see that. I need to get that sniffer tool to find leaks. They say they work really well.

Yep, just nuts and bolts I say. I am replacing my cab mount bushings very soon. Just need some time off work.

The 134 I used had stop leak in it. Maybe that will help with slow leaks??

I just do it myself. It’s pretty easy. There is a placard under my hood that tells how much 134 and oil you need. I just replaced a leaking schrader valve and had to recharge it.

Oops. yes I would try the resistor. If the switch was not changing the fan speeds it is most likely corroded. I’ve replaced those before and some of them crumbled when removed. I may be checking mine soon because there doesn’t seem to be a lot of change in speed with my switch positions. hopefully you’ll get it soon.

I remove the original drain for the crankcase filter because the plastic was brittle and broke. I put a rubber hose on as a replacement. Hope that is ok.

Thanks. No rebuild in my budget. Oil samples are normal for now and no smoke so I’ll run it til I sell it.

I do drive it to work. I don't generally let it idle longer that required to build the air pressure. I was going to order one of the maintenance free cummins crankcase filters, which basically has the big filter removed and see how that goes, but it's about 150$.

It has 893,000 miles and just over 26,000 engine hours. Not sure about the idle hours. Are those in the ECM as well?

I believe I have found the source of my noise. I finally checked my cab mount bushings (front) and they are basically metal on metal. At least the right one. I am picking up new ones tomorrow. Maybe, just maybe, most of the knocking will be gone.

Hello All, My crankcase filter keeps getting saturated with oil. When I took the cover off this time a little water came out with some sludge. The oil on the dip stick looks normal. I checked the drain line, it’s clear. As is the line coming from the top of the case. Why would it continue to get saturated with oil? There is a spring loaded disc on the left or front side. I checked that and it seems to be working, aka not stuck. Thanks.

Your right about that. I had it at the Cummins Service Center for an overhead set and check my jake rockers. Those were good but one of the injector rockers was bad. They had it for a week due to being shorthanded. After I got i back I was checking the jake and the mid (4 cyl) and hi (6 cyl) were not working and I got a CHECK light. I called and told them about it and have to take it back on Monday so they can see if there is a wire disconnected or something. It does run a lot better though. Still a little rough but for 892k plus I think it won't get much better with out dumping a lot of dollars. Which I don't have so it will be fine by me. The electrical connector for the jake that is on the left side of the head was soaked with oil. I cleaned that out with some contact cleaner and dried it. I will see if that made any difference.

I dropped my truck off at the Cummins serví center for an overhead set. They called and said they found a broke adjusting screw on one of the injectors. They ordered it and it should be done tomorrow. He said the cylinder was pretty much dead as a result of the broken screw. Could be the source of my weird knocking kind of noise.

That looks great. Is the sound proofing doing a good job reducing noise?

Very nice.

Well after six months or more of wondering about this noise I took my rig in for an overhead set at a Cummins service center. They said one of the injector adjusting screws was broke and had to order one. He said that the cylinder was pretty much dead as a result. I’ll find out tomorrow if the problem is fixed when I pick it up.

Oh boy. Figures one of the more expensive repairs. I found a remanufactured one for about $3600. I guess I will have to save up and the get it done. I wish I had the Cummins insight program to calibrate the actuator.

I’m not sure about all the laws. But I would suspect that since it is registered as an RV you do not need to follow the FMCSA rules. The reason I say that is because last summer I flew out to Hayes Kansas to buy a 2010 Volvo 780. Of course I got pulled over less than two hours after I left heading home. I was pulling out of one of those toll places. Anyway, the trooper asked some questions and I told him that I had just bought it and that it was going to be registered as private so I could pull a fifth wheel camper. He said, “well I guess you don’t have to follow FMCSA rules”. You could also call FMCSA and ask them. I called about getting a trailer and moving my brother and sister-in-laws household goods from one state to another. They said as long as it was done as private then it was ok. Chuck

Hello All, I was tinkering around and removed the tube coming from the turbo to the inter cooler. There was a film of oil in the turbo and some in the tube. There was a little bit of spray at the end of the tube going into the inter cooler. I know that is not a good sign. Do you think the turbo is shot? I haven't had any indications prior to finding that. If I need to replace it my truck may be sitting for a while. It is expensive.. Thanks.