Exile

I have a tx commercial policy from progressive. there was an option for restricting the journey, or unlimited. i understand it to allow unlimited bob tailing, from memory. Policy from Donnely-Bay in Sealy, don’t remember the lady’s name mine is liability only. btw- Irby construction is still working near LaGrange, running a 36” or so pipeline, they haven’t shut down yet.

Yeah, never had an excavator,, but it would be nice. I would settle with a skid steer. i will borrow farmer neighbor’s loader when i need one, but have to move truck at nite, as wife doesn’t want neighborhood to bitch about my “rv” 🤔

Current status- deck bolted on scabbed some plating together for the last two ft. Length is about 14 ft still needs 3”x3/16” side rails on the outside, ramp connections and a bumper hitch. And painted, and flipped over to finish hidden welds. . . And and

Detail of mounting system using existing fifth wheel mounting holes two loose bolts at front, and a wooden cushion at end of dovetail where it rests on the frame. doubler spanning rails butt joint

Dovetail framed out Back bumper and cross piece in front of it are 3x3x1/4”, more meat for connection of bumper hitch and support for car’s front axle bought and mounted small crane to help with moving deck plates and get commercial fifth down.

Bed in early stage, enough built to use truck to go get deck plating. Couldn’t lift fifth wheel at that point, so just slid it back and bolted it down. I miss all the equipment on a farm that makes this more simple. Framing is 2x3x11ga(1/8”). One stick of it will hold my entire 4300 lb vehicle at the end, so should be plenty strong. framing was pretty cheap, decking was more expensive. I went with 1/4” diamond plate. Framing maybe 250$, still more laying in shop. had chop saw and wire feed welder, worked good to get this far. the stubs sticking up are to retain the decking, because frame doesn’t have any fore and aft tie downs yet

Grease the truck every 10k miles or so, fifth wheel more often some on here open up their wheel bearings on the trailer once a year, check trailer brakes based on use or big upcoming trip test break away brake system and check trailer suspension keep trailer jacks maintained take a crawl around the truck and trailer before going on the road, check the roof for caulk and vents and other penetrations condition do a pre-trip on the truck before driving it. You should catch many issues early by doing this.

Thank you, Found the online eaton spicer manuals, they said both axles are 1.87” 41 spline, so axleshafts should be ok still need to check that the interaxle shaft has the same dia and splines. And- they both show as same part no. 127646nss, so they should fit, fingers crossed. just need to clean them up, paint them, then wait a week until i get done using the truck, then try and put one in (the easy one) if too painful, take it to the local no name shop just down the road. lkq had inventory all over, even in the parking lot, so got out the door for 1350 and no core charge plus 150$ for the new bolt kits to install them

Gulp, so i need to go back and tell them to give me the axle shafts too . . . Both are 41 spline according to write ip, guess i need to count and measure

Guy at the salvage yard said they were, my research said dsp40 was compatible (new longer bolts required), that was what i thought i was getting, but when i showed up with a pickup to load them, they turned out to be DSP41s. I struck out online, any one here know? i understand DSP41s will not have lockers.

👍👍

Thanks for the update, i always wonder what the cause was when someone posts an issue like that. glad to hear you’re back up and running

Working from home and saving 17$ in tolls and 10$ in gas per day. Plus i get two hours of my life back each day. and doing plumbing projects for neighbor. Need to go get some new rear ends next week if the store is open. And two truck batteries, and some flat bar to finish the bed, and, and, .. . Then go buy sheathing and siding and work on my own house. Society will certainly change after this, gotta say I don’t miss traffic

Thanks, Spring eyes good, i believe there is space at the rebound bumper or wear pad, but I usually see it deflated. (Air trac) Looking at it, there is a 1” gap, i see aftermarket companies sell a poly wear pad to cushion the blow. With that, it seems like that should only come off the wear pad if i were to break hard but, empty, it might take less torque. will crawl through and check the engine and clutch end of the truck Ujoints tight by hand, since the driveline will rotate about ten degrees, i assume it is all additive slop in the rear ends.

Or at least when it is better . . . when it is parked right inside my shop. pickup with box bed never gets stuff stacked on it. Well, sometimes in the cab, but not in the bed. pete with flatbed has truck crane, impact, kitchen drawers, rachet straps, welding shield, muffs, two tubes of lexal, bolts, nuts, and all kinds of other junk on it. damned thing is just the right height for stacking stuff on. I guess it means I just haven’t run it enough.

I’ve driven a few trucks, and most of them, well, they were “experienced” (kinda junk) Where does the driveline slop come from? I mean that if you stop going down a slight incline, there will be a jerk when i let out the clutch as the driveline turns before the wheels turn, does this happen in new, or properly adjusted drivelines? seems lite it could come from xmission, ujoints, and two diffs, my ujoints are tight, should the diffs be tight? Or have slack in them?

There is a member here who uses his work truck to pull his fifth, cannot remember his handle, he has a red cabover he would know about weigh stations fuel taxes and logs while on vacation. only issue is hassle of insurance, logs and registration as a truck, but that would all be part of your business. Some neighborhoods will allow rvs but not commercial trucks some campgrounds might not appreciate a commercial truck coming in, but i have no direct knowledge on that part, they might not know or care the difference

Moresmoke- is your fifthwheel on under that flat bed? Nice dgn and mms on it.

1/2 psi for every foot of elevation. Ish.

Thank you all, i can see i have some options I didn’t even consider.

Lol, getting rid of a 18x24 slab right now, maybe i just need to jackhammer it into tiny pieces. Should only take two weeks.

I need to put in a couple hundred feet of driveway back to my hdt garage, and i’m not wild about putting in concrete. I have a lot of it already in other places The soil is pretty soft, it rained 2” and the contractor got his tractor stuck in my yard. Had to get a wrecker to pull it out. I’ve thought about those concrete blocks that let grass grow through, or pavers, with just a concrete apron in front of the building i can’t build it up too high, because the drainage will need to go down the driveway any recommendations/suggestions/opinions?

Cpvc. Pvc also available the one you show would come in useful for sure

I took 6 rims off a junked truck with the northern tool version of those, the trick is to only use the gear set to break it loose, then spin it off with a battery impact or the extension and handle without the reduction that comes in the kit. Took about an hour.

I found this in an Ace Hardware and other places, looks like a great part, gets rid of plastic threads.