Exile

Er- what is a dual park chamber you mention? my tractor has a sticker talking about a brake mod required should it become a truck, and i thought it had spring brake cans. . .

That would certainly make the truck go faster, i might need to forgo that last gear!

22.5” tall rubber. I don’t think going 24.5” will make much difference, looks like 23 revolutions per mile fewer, or ~5%?

My apologies for the confusion, thank you for the replies. I have dd405s with 4.88s and all the locking stuff is attached and works so far as i can tell. I go 60 mph at about 2000 rpm with a .76 OD xmission. i would like to go a little faster so I don’t get run over. I agree this would be painfully stupid to change just a few rpm. Rickeieio, looking at all the junk connected to the axles, it looks easier to change the gears, but that is just my observation . Axles would cost more than just the gears, from my research at the local LQT. I don’t have good access to a loader, so handling weight of an axle would be difficult my understanding is that my axles have long splines, and i can use a locking or non locking diff with no problem. The truck has four air bags, with springs supporting the other end of the lever arm, “air spring?” Is maybe the name of it. so, I understand that i could have only one locking axle, so long as i have matched ratios. i understand that yoke removal and retorquing could be difficult, possibly involving a trip to local truck shop to have them pull it and torque it. I understand all the gear sets discussed should have compatible input splines And i will need longer bolts, i had not considered this. Thank you. Btw, anyone know what the diff set would weigh? I’m assuming 1000 lbs ish or less for each axle.

She just turned 21 and i want to get her a new rear end. The truck, so get your minds out of the gutter. Three questions- 1. How hard to change? Third axle doesn’t look too bad, kinda scared of power divider axle. And what about that input yoke, does it need torqued to preload that bearing? My skills and tools are moderate to good, i have pulled pickup xmissions, disassembled them, put them back together and it still worked. Local quote was for 650 per axle for labor 2. What are the pitfalls ordering it? I understand the axle spline count, i have eaton dd405, and should be able to install ds405, ds404, 402, but I don’t know about the input shaft spline count and the yoke. 3. Can i run a locker axle with a non locking axle if the ratios match? Bonus question- should i just drive it to Rickeieio’s and get him to help/supervise me? Thank you for your advice and opinions.

Yep, uniflow engines require a blower to operate at low rpm before a turbo will provide enough scavenge pressure. Can be done with an electric fan also, though not usually on automotive engines. it is putting blowers in series that i object to. Just wasted effort, turbos are generally more efficient at higher rpms. But then again, i have never built a 3500 hp engine. what he did obviously works, just seems inefficient.

I like the idea and looks of the two 12-71s, but the superchargers in series is dumb, and looks worse. Should have turbos and intercoolers. useful? No, but will always draw a crowd wherever you show up. I think that meets the definition of art, looks interesting, creates conversation, but practically useless. i would take it over a monet.

Most trucks don’t have the hose underneath connecting the fuel tanks at the low point any more. They are supposed to equalize with the fuel return system. Any truck with the connecting hose and a vented fuel cap could overflow. Check for the hose underneath.

Figured out that my tester will also give a % of life, and it declared one of my new batteries to be at 25% and the other at 45%. Dammit. Checked the two batteries it said were good, and they were both 89%. i’m not real impressed with Exide at this point, I don’t see how they could have released this many batteries without testing them with something more sophisticated than my cheapo meter. I will try to find somewhere with a more sophisticated and proven meter that can provide more information, since i’m not sure mine is accurate. And send this info back to them too.

Bit the lead bullets, and sprung for 4 new batteries. Local Volvo dealer had two year warranty Exides for 64$ ish ea. Charged them up, and battery charger gave me some warning lights before it was willing to charge them. tested with cheapo battery tester and it said 3 of 4 were bad. Wtf? took to local chain auto parts store, and they said two were bad. Took to Volvo, and they told me they couldn’t test them, and I would have to buy two more, and they could ship my two to Exide for testing. Took them back home. Do lead acid batteries need to be conditioned? They were made only a month before I bought them. Update: went to dealer with my cheapo battery tester and all 12 in their rack tested bad. Turned two in and took two more anyway. Will warranty claim the two i turned in. my tester now shows my two other new batteries to be good, so one of them got better? do these batteries need conditioning? I don’t understand this, from chemistry class, seems like they should only degrade with time. Will charge two newest ones and see what happens. Said 91% charged when i got them home. 12.9 volts

Roger that. Consensus is for me to break out my wallet. Since i hurt my shoulder, it hurts even worse to get it out 😯 And yes, i want a clamp on dc ampmeter too. I will look into it more, and try to convince my neighbor to buy one went to dealer on my way home from work to price batteries, and line was almost out the door, so skipped it for today.

First, the facts: engine starts right up, so long as it turns over. It will start when barely turning over, even after an attempt when it doesn’t turn over, so this is not an engine issue batteries (4) are whatever the seller had laying around, 925, 650, 950, 825 A two batteries showed bad with cheapo tester at rated amps, but showed good at 750a my tester would not test one battery, would just restart the menu when attempted Truck starts after sitting in shop on charger charger says all batteries are 97% individually, and 87% when connected to all truck doesn’t like to start after sitting out for several days not connected, cranks slowly or not at all replaced voltage regulator, get 14 v when driving now starts ok after driving my conclusions: i have a drain somewhere- i can fix that, or disconnect batteries batteries are not great best case would just be to buy all new batteries, or better yet, all new truck, but would prefer to understand the issues at play here my questions will batteries work ok in a group if they are different ratings? will a higher amp not great battery pull the others down even if it tests ok at lower amperage ? what kind of amps do i need for a s60 12.7 to start? Thank you for your patience and assistance.

Thank you, I finally know what the “diagnostic “ switch on the dash is for, i feel like a dummy. no active check engine light engine now, but shows throttle position sensor low voltage using diagnostic switch, so i will check that out.

Any recommendations for a code reader? it has a round connector, can’t remember if it is 6 or 9 pin. threw it twice while idling yesterday and shut down an hour away from my house on maiden voyage, then restarted and drove home no issues. This am, threw it twice and shut down. Found what appeared to be the main computer power wire loose. Tightened it up and went on a test drive just fine. it would be nice to know what the codes are though. Tried searching this site, didn’t come up with much. Trucking sites don’t say much either.

The one thing I should have learned is : SLOW DOWN!!! The motorcycle book of a similar name had one nugget in it, that if you are doing something, take your time and enjoy it, instead of getting in a rush. while changing a shock, i made the bad decision to run the nut back on the stud with the impact. And hammered it too many times getting it started, with the result of some nice new crooked threads. And the stud is welded to the chassis. Thank you uncle Lee, may you RIP, for leaving me a tap and die set with a fine thread 1/2” tap and die. in my defense, all of the other nuts went on hard because of paint, but it was still all my fault. BTW, I couldn’t finish the motorcycle book, written by a crazy dude about a crazy motorcycle rider. But- that last might be redundant 😉 now to try to go get the die started straight on the crooked threads. Sigh. . . may you be more patient than me.

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Ah yes, that looks like a good solution, thx.

Am now welding up the frame for the bed, and sure would like to have a small, couple ton hand crane. Ideally, i would like to be able to remove and install the bed with it, because I don’t have a hoist, but that would be more complex, so shelving idea that for now. hydraulic jack, some tubing, and a base swivel- i have a couple wheel bearing assemblies, complete with flanges from a sorento. Anyone done something like this? Didn’t see any projects for this in the resource forum. Best case would be movable to various locations on the bed.

Sent pm with emails.

Sounds good. The title manual say use a vtr-61 and convert the unit, which may mean it will end up with a salvage title. the new title manual also talks about covering the frame (bed) which is not in the state statutes. GThe email i got from Austin did not follow that. This is where it was strange the email i got said submit photos of the four systems, a weight certificate and a 130-U. i would paste it in, but my ipad, laptop and phone have all ganged up on me and conspired to stop me.- got it finally i took that email in, and the ladies were so mad at me they just followed the email from Austin instead of the title manual. i believe truck registration is much more expensive than mh.

Yeah baby, Flames. i want some too, so please keep us up to date.

The biggest thing is to get the weights and centers of gravity of all the loads going onto the bed, including hitch load. If you locate the axles under the centers of the summed loads, it will keep your front axle the same.

I had to request another title from the state. Cost me two dollars! And a couple weeks on the schedule.

Loosen the fuel headers under the valve covers and crank on the starter until it fountains up. You might try running it ether to get it primed, but not if it was your engine 🤭 easier to troubleshoot the cruise control back then. Is the hand throttle cable connected? Cruise is hooked up!