SuiteSuccess

Merry Christmas to all and a blessed New Year.🎄

This should be a great project and pretty ingenious on Charlie’s part in coming up with this idea. If you want to build one it will be $10 “ at the door” the day of the project. If interested go ahead and post that interest here so we can get a count. BTW Charlie I’m in for one.😊 and thanks for helping.

Dan sent you a personal message.

After the holidays we will begin assembling the seminar topics for the ECR. Some are “mandatory “ and designed for newcomers who are considering a move into an HDT tow vehicle. However, would like to include topics that are of interest and informative to the entire group. So if you have an idea, would like to present a topic or otherwise please post here or email me at ecrcarl at gmail.com. Thanks.

Sounds like a parts man who didn’t want to be bothered.

Just some follow up. Thanks to my good friend GeorgiaHybrid was able to get my MorRyde IS alignment done at Diesel Plus in Ringgold Ga right outside Chattanooga. David and I “supervised “ the whole process and let me say those guys were great. They have a Hunter trailer alignment system which hooks to the kingpin and it was fascinating to watch how it worked. The IS system is a bear to get in specs. Requires special shims I ordered from MorRyde and a chain “come along” for the toe in. The spec range is in hundredths of a degree which took a lot of time and patience for camber and toe in. I was the second MorRyde they have done but they are willing to do more and in fact may petition MorRyde as a certified service center. Price was extremely reasonable seeing how it took close to 5 hours. Pulling back to Knoxville was a dream, I couldn’t believe the difference. Trailer stayed perfectly in line behind the truck. Before I had always had a little tail wagging. The truck itself tracked much better on the road probably due to elimination of the trailer forces on the rear. Was amazed in my two year old trailer how far the alignment was out. Don’t know if DRV or MorRyde even attempts an alignment before they put these trailers on the road?

The 215/75/17.5 or the 235/75/17.5?

Thanks, that’s why I ask the smart folks, 😊

In the process of changing all my corded tools in the truck and trailer over to cordless with lithium battery. My plan is to fully charge all the batteries before storage in the truck for the winter then recharge before first use. Going to have about 8 batteries so don’t want to carry them home and leave on chargers. Any problem leaving them off chargers for 4-5 months?

Steve, Could you remove the “p”trap at the sink and run a hose down the pipe and use a siphon pump connected to another hose and empty that way so you can work on it? I know you have to have a Gomco suction pump somewhere in all that medical equipment you have.

Thanks again. Happy Thanksgiving.

Agree, amen to that.

Thanks Dave.

Have one other question after more research. Says recommended rim size for Sailun 215/75/R17.5 is 6 inches while G114 is 6.75 inches. Could the 215 Sailun be mounted on my 6.75 rim? or is this another reason to go with the 235?

Follow up on an earlier post about alignment on MorRyde IS on my 5er. Appointment for alignment in couple of weeks. (Waiting on shims from MorRyde). Tire shop says my scalloped G114 would be okay as a spare. My present spare will go on the ground after the alignment. After much thought my present plan is to purchase a Sailun 637 from Amazon for $170 (great deal) and keep it as the spare and scrap the scalloped tire. My question: My G114s are 215/75/R17.5 (3 yrs old) and my thought is I should get the same size in the Sailun however I can also get a 235/75/R17.5 for the same price and it can carry more weight but is slightly larger by about 1”. My future plan is to replace the G114s in the next few years with the 235 for more weight carrying capacity. Would I cause any problems using the 235 as the spare until I could get somewhere to get a new 215? I’m hoping it would never be used until I replace all tires.

Just be sure and shake and turn upside down if you try it. It’s the propellant that freezes.

Dave, Back on my chisel suggestion. I’ve heard of using “canned air” (the stuff to blow dust off your computer), turning the can upside down and spraying til a good layer of frost forms then whacking the now frozen, brittle bolt to pop off the head. Apparently will break a padlock.

Dave, Enough room to get a chisel on the head? Couple of hits with a two pound sledge may break the head off.

Al, The Sailun will be my spare after the alignment. I’m going to put my present spare G114 on the ground and continue to run them until aged out. The messed up tire is going in the dump. I’m going with the Sailun as a spare because of price $170 on Amazon. G114 is over $300. I will also consider Sailun as replacement for the G114s. Just depends on research and price. Like I said, Hankook is also high on the list for me.

Yeah Rocky read those after you pointed me in that direction. These tires were on my rig when we bought it. Going to get realignment and then replace that tire with a Sailun and use as spare. On my last trailer when I replaced G114s , went with Hankook and really liked that tire. But will probably go with Continental or Michelins when I replace.

Follow up. Removed tire and took to my trusted tire shop. All the old guys agreed was alignment issue, not tire issue.

I feel we’ve sidetracked as these discussions often do. My original post raised three questions based on individual opinions. These were 1. As HDTers do you feel today, as opposed to several years ago, we are a higher profile target? 2. Has anything changed in how and where you boondock? 3. Do you feel more vulnerable than before? At no point was I suggesting opinions as to who should or shouldn’t boondock or how they choose to protect themselves. That is an individual choice. Early in our camping lives we used to tent camp with our children in some out of the way places. Only scare we had was a raccoon scratching the tent near my daughters head and making her come alive in the middle of the night.

No, it was right front. This is right rear.

Sent

Independent Suspension System Alignment Guide INTRODUCTION DESCRIPTION The MORryde “IS” Independent Rubber Suspension System uses 100% Natural Rubber Springs to support the trailer weight and absorb road shock. By absorbing the shock, the rubber provides a much smoother towing experience than steel leaf springs. With the new MORryde “IS” Independent Rubber Suspension System, there are no more broken leaf springs! The towing is virtually hassle-free with the smoothest towing available for fifth wheels and travel trailers. The Primary benefits that you can expect from the MORryde ”IS” suspension are: SMOOTHER TOWING - the MORryde suspension has up to 2 1/2 times the suspension travel of leaf springs or rubber axles, allowing the MORryde suspension to absorb road shock much better. IMPROVED TOWABILITY - the MORryde suspension is designed to “block” body roll, improving the cornering and stability of the tow vehicle and trailer combination. AUTOMOTIVE STYLE ALIGNMENT - a MORryde first! You can manage your tire wear through toe and camber adjustments, a feature no other towable suspension offers! HEIGHT ADJUSTABILITY - the MORryde suspension can be adjusted easily to accommodate different tow heights and to compensate for side-to-side load variations. PROVEN DURABILITY - the MORryde suspension has undergone strenuous testing to prove it’s durability. The result? No more broken leaf springs! U.S. PAT. NO. 5,899,470 ALIGNMENT PROCEDURES The design of the MORryde Independent Suspension System allows for automotive style toe and camber wheel alignment. This allows the operator of the RV to effectively manage tire wear under normal towing conditions. There are four bolts and one torque bracket per wheel that allow for these adjustment. Refer to the directions below for proper tow and camper procedures. NOTE: Always adjust the camper first followed by the toe. ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS Camber (+0.5 degrees to +0.8 degrees) Toe (+0.01 inches to +0.06 inches) ADJUSTING CAMBER 1. Connect the alignment machine and level the unit on the alignment turntables. 2. Loosen the four torque bracket bolts 3. If the camber is negative, add a shim(s) to the outside of the torque bracket. 4. If the camber is positive, add a shim(s) to the inside of the torque bracket. 5. A 1/4” shim will change the camber approximately 1 degree. 6. Tighten torque bracket bolts. NOTE: The unit will need to be raised to add camber. CAMBER SHIM SPECIFICATIONS Shims are available in three sizes: 1/4”, 1/8”, and 1/16” 1” 8” 1. Connect the alignment machine and level the unit on the alignment turntables. 2. Loosen the four torque bracket bolts. 3. Adjust the torque bracket assembly to obtain the correct toe readings on the alignment machine. 4. Tighten the torque bracket bolts. 1/2” ADJUSTING TOE NOTE: Toe adjustments can be eased by the use of a “port-a-power” or large adjustment bar. TORQUE BRACKET ALIGNMENT ADJUSTING CAMBER 1. Loosen highlighted bolt and nut assembly. 2. Add shims to the inside or outside of the torque bracket to achieve proper camber alignment. 3. Tighten 1/2” bolts to 60 ft-lbs. 4. Tighten 3/4” bolts to 180 ft-lbs. ADJUSTING TOE 1. Loosen highlighted bolt and nut assembly. 2. Adjust torque bracket side to side to achieve proper toe alignment 3. Tighten 1/2” bolts to 60 ft-lbs. 4. Tighten 3/4” bolts to 180 ft-lbs.