SuiteSuccess

So sorry to hear this. Glad everyone is ok. Prayers are with you.

Yep. All I ever use.

Ok got my switch changed out. Turns out the 0 ring on the plunger was hard and had glued itself to the housing. Took a lot of effort to get the plunger to pull out but it was in good shape and not melted. Would probably be a good idea to periodically lubricate the O ring to keep it supple. I’m not so sure that it would not have broken the cable from the plunger if suddenly jerked.

My Progressive through Miller insurance.

Interesting Jim. I just changed to Progressive from National General through Miller Insurance. My contact was Roxanne Sutton. I specifically asked her about bob tail coverage and was told there were no restrictions. They did have to cover the trailer also but it is a separate policy. Wonder why a difference? I did also speak with Grace Street at Lazy Days in Florida (same company Rick is using) and she was quoting me a Progressive policy but it was the same rate and coverage Miller quoted so I stayed where I had been for the past 14 years.

Thanks Chet. Always a teaching/learning experience with you. I so much appreciate it.

Happy Birthday 🎁

I am electric over hydraulic. Interesting finding on your forensics. Makes sense though. I’ve ordered a new switch and when installed will tear apart the old to see if what you describe might be a reoccurring issue. If so two solutions come to mind. 1. Slip a pared down popsicle stick between the contacts to let them cool for awhile, then quickly change with the plastic plunger. OR 2. Put an on/off switch on the 12 volt wire. (Not ideal but should work).

Chet, Reason for replacement is the “plug” connected to the lanyard has become fused to the body of the switch so I can’t pull on the lanyard and remove it. Going to probably have to put vice grips on it to get it out. Want to have a new one available cause I’m sure it’s probably going to break. If so couldn’t I just cut and connect the two wires to complete the circuit, reconnect the battery and test with the clamp on meter?

Thanks Jim.

I have a 2017 DRV trailer that has a two wire emergency breakaway switch for the brakes. It’s the one that has the lanyard that activates the brakes if the trailer becomes disconnected from the hitch. The present factory one is ESCO and I’m wondering if a generic, Curt, or Hobbs replacement should work (I can get those locally)?

Good reminder, Rick. It’s okay to build outside the box but the further we stray from compliance the more we place ourselves on the radar for regulation. Sooner or later it will bite us on the backside.

New myth to discuss. Wheel bearings on a trailer need to be repacked every other year.

Good to know.

Rick, Allstate cancelled a homeowner’s policy we had in Texas for a broken window claim. We had been with them 20 years with only one other claim 5 years prior for hail damage on roof.

Thanks for the info Rick.

I switched because my agent since we bought the truck said National General (our previous insurance) was probably pulling out of Tennessee for conversion coverage.

Rick, Let me know because I’m now with Progressive. I also have the tow insurance. Be careful, my agent said it is filed as a claim against the insurance and may result in them considering non-renewal.

Yes and Kenworth and Volvo have speced a truck for folks we know specifically to pull a fifth wheel and be registered in their respective states for that purpose. So should they not be covered because Kenworth and Volvo mainly build commercial vehicles? Jack Mayer and RVH are ordering trucks and purpose building to not be used commercially. So I think the point I was making still has validity. Plus, I still would bet Prevost primary market is still for commercial use. In fact they sold shy of 400 commercial buses to New York State in 2023 with an option for more. https://prevostcar.com/. BTW you do know Prevost is owned by Volvo Truck Group?

My problem was and is with their “business model”. Even McDonalds teaches their employees to make the burgers the same way every time. Good Sam did not teach every employee the same answer to a basic question….am I covered? Having read a previous thread on this forum, I consistently called a representative (supposedly recorded response) and described my rig and what I was using it for BEFORE renewing. It was only recently that I was informed I was not covered because of the conversion of a commercial vehicle. I took it up the chain to a supervisor and then the head office rep only to find the “policy” had apparently changed four years previously. Why had the previous three reps not been informed of a company wide policy change? Why had the customers not been informed of a coverage change? Answer from higher up…it was my responsibility to find it, they had no obligations to inform. So I looked…their brochure indeed said no coverage for a commercial vehicle…I’m not commercial…registered as a Motorhome. DOT recognizes the difference. Called back to head office. Asked if they covered Prevost, MCI bus/motorhomes? Answer…yes. Well primary business of both is commercial bus production for passenger hauling. Met with crickets on the end of the line. Facts always lead to the truth and I choose not to deal with any business that I believe is less than truthful. BTW they would NOT refund my previous four year’s premiums for the time their policy was not going to provide coverage.

Aw, those were the days. No power, no torque. My “Fred Flintstone” mobile.

I see you’re singling so the roadside assistance packages should cover you but check and get it in writing. The three listed will not cover you if you are tandem. Do not believe their representative on the phone without verifying because half of them don’t know what they do and don’t cover. I went to the top of the chain with Good Sam before finding out my tandem hadn’t been covered for four years. Luckily I didn’t have to use it, but I didn’t get my premiums back either. BTW most people think these are insurance. They are service contracts not insurance and function under different regulations.

Chet, That is EXACTLY the explanation I was looking for. Thank you. It just seemed logical to even my grade school electronics brain that resistance was the culprit in the whole setup. Minimize resistance whenever possible.

Chet, I have a Xantrex Freedom 1800 HF which I installed years ago with 3/0 cable and short runs. I connected to battery 4 positive and battery 1 negative but really had no good facts to support that configuration. I’m putting four new batteries in (one battery died [tested] all four only 22 mos old) and was questioning whether my connection configuration might have been a culprit. BTW that battery was #4 and had little electrolyte while all others had plenty of fluid. Also I’m fused properly. (You helped me choose the size years ago.)

So you’re saying the latter option. Positive on battery 1 and negative on battery 4 or vice versa. That makes the most sense for balanced charging and the way I’ve always done it but really couldn’t explain the REASON I do it that way.