Fresh Water Pump

[burnsgd2]

We own a 2000 Monaco Windsor and recently the fresh water pump quit working. We replaced it with a new one yesterday and to our dismay it still does not work. We have checked the fuses. The person that installed it checked the voltage on the wires to the to pump and there is none. No sure what to do next. Any ideas?

[Ranger Smith]

If you have more than 1 switch that controls the pump there is a pump controller module somewhere. That is either bad or the 12 volts to it is dead

[burnsgd2]

ok thanks. I Will research where that controller module might be.  

[Devilishjim]

switch itself might be bad/ check for power at the switch

[Kirk W]

Do you own a voltmeter that you can use to check the voltage with? If you do, go back to the switch and check where power connects to it. Does your water pump have more than one on/off switch? There are several ways they can be wired but if there are more than 2 switches, there must be a control somewhere. The circuits are not complicated but some basic knowledge of dc electricity is helpful. 

If you still have the first pump, you might want to use a pair of jumpers from the battery to test it as quite likely it is still good and the loss of power is the cause of its failure. 

[oldjohnt]

Good advice above. Basically if the fuse in the DC distribution panel is okay and the branch circuit wiring is okay there should be 12 volts getting to the water pump On/Off Switch (many have a pilot light to show when its on, if it has but its not lit when on, switch or supply to it must be bad/open) and then if ON there should be 12 volts (with respect to the ground wire) to the pump area HOWEVER the hot wire goes thru a pressure switch and ONLY sends power to the pump motor itself when pressure drops and the pump needs to run. If you don't have a simple DC Voltmeter one of those cheap 6/12 volt test lamps should be all you need to check for 1) Power to the Switch,,,,,,,,,,,,2) Power out of the switch when ON,,,,,,,,,,,,3) Power to the pump area,,,,,,,,,,,,,,4) Power to the pump motor itself when its needed due to low pressure.

 If that dude told you no power TO the pump, its likely a bad fuse or a broken wire to the switch or a bad switch or a bad wire from switch to the pump. Start at the switches INPUT then OUTPUT if on then down at the pump area ahead of and before the pressure switch 

  You can do this, its not near as hard as troubleshooting a hot water heater lol

John T    Currently full timing, we handed over the farm and home keys one hour ago

 

[Darryl&Rita]

Be aware, at least one pump remote switches the ground side of the circuit.

[oldjohnt]

19 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Be aware, at least one pump remote switches the ground side of the circuit.

Darryl, Ive seen RV appliances switched on the NEG side, no idea if it was factory original or not??? I always switch on the POS side myself. Its unlike household 120 VAC where the UNgrounded HOT conductor is switched as its 120 VAC with respect to Mother Earth,,,, as well as the Equipment Ground Buss,,,, and Equipment GroundING Conductors, which are bonded to the outer metallic conductive frames of tools and appliances,,,, as well as the GrounDED Conductor (Neutral).

 John T

[Darryl&Rita]

I had to dig into the memory bank for this one. Take a look at the wiring diagram for this pump controller:Intellitec Page 2 gives the wiring diagram for the whole system, including the switched ground.

 

ETA: This link will also give the OP an idea of what they're looking for.

[Kirk W]

35 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Take a look at the wiring diagram for this pump controller:Intellitec

Thanks for that link. I seem to have lost it somewhere in my travels. One thing to note that should indicate the use of one of those controllers is the fact that in this case, that pump switch is only momentary, and spring returned to open, where a single switch is typically manually closed and opened.