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Everything posted by DanZemke

  1. i've chosen not to buy a TOGO and the associated AT&T data plan. In my case, I already have superior cellular and wifi hardware. And my current data plans are large enough to meet my needs. 25 GB/month on a Verizon plan through FMCA, and unlimited through an AT&T Mobley plan. But for many full-timers, the AT&T $360 per year (unlimited plan) seems VERY attractive. The TOGO seems to be easy to install, and good enough for most folks.
  2. RV_ Good info. I prefer a full keyboard for typing more than a few chars. And have been underwhelmed, by the apps I've tried, for transferring photos to my Window's big storage drives. After I migrate from my old Moto G4+ to the Pixel 3a I just purchased, I'll give the Your Phone app a good try. Thank you!
  3. docj, "Maybe everyone already knows this". I didn't. Thanks for the useful tip. 🙂 update: for me, I preferred just setting the color to red. I tried bolder settings and didn't like them. The problem I seemed to be having increasingly, was being able to locate the cursor, even when moving it around. The red fixed that for me. Again, thank you.
  4. I am seriously interested in what your solution was. I purchased several lever controlled, stainless steel pins and have evaluated various locking pins. You are the only one I've found that has used something other than bolts to secure their ramps. Please tell me, and others, what worked best for you, and why. Thanks, Dan
  5. Sounds like a wise choice. Although the bamboo-based straight ones have their charms, the newer plastic circular ones are probably more appropriate for space constrained RVers. 🙂 BTW, "Android Pay" was rebranded as Google Pay (aka G Pay) in early 2018. Unfortunately, I have an old Moto G4 Plus that does not support NFC. But largely because of your posts, my next phone will. Thanks, Dan
  6. Alloy, Appreciate the info, especially about the EMS. I have a Progressive too, so you probably saved me significant time and frustration. Thank you! Dan
  7. Glenn, I like it too. I bought one this morning at the best price I could find. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-Systems-9019-65A-240V-AC-3-Pole-Rotary-Switch-New/174053754398?epid=1037666844&hash=item288669861e:g:5Z0AAOSwbqddl9T0
  8. Not in my opinion. But I purchased stuff from them over a decade ago. On the positive side, they provided some interesting information about weight distribution and RV quality ratings. But in retrospect, I didn't actually use any of their information in selecting the RV I bought. Suggest you ask folks on this forum first, and then decide if there are big holes in the information that you wanted were not filled.
  9. IMO, new blood, even with guaranteed issue, trumps a static pool of old folks. No one actually knows how the market will develop. But I plan to change my plan from a Plan F to a Plan G for 2020. In my case, a Plan G HD, seems best for me.
  10. Linda and Kirk, I did a bit more research and I think a Mea Culpa is due. You have it. The description of who will be able to buy a 2020 Plan F is ambiguous for current Medicare, on many websites. But I found some that say anyone currently on Medicare in 2019 will be able to choose a Plan F for 2020. So, from several sources saying you can, versus several ambiguous sources - the "you can sites" seem more probable. It appears that I was wrong. I apologize. However, it's not clear to me why anyone would want to sign up for a Plan F (or Plan F HD) in 2020. Plan G (or Plan G HD) seems to me to be a better option. I am currently on a Plan F and am hoping to change to a Plan G in 2020. Why? Because future younger folks won't be able to sign up for a Plan F. Over time, the risk pool for plan F subscribers will be older. Older folks, in aggregate, have higher medical expenses. I'd rather be in an insurance pool that accepts younger folks. That's why I would like to switch to a Plan G. In my case, a Plan G HD seems best.
  11. Linda, I'm truly not trying to debate with you. But I have a different impression than you seem to have. My impression is that for most folks, the only people who will be eligible for a Plan F plan in 2020 are those who already have a Plan F. "Starting January 1, 2020, Medigap plans sold to new people with Medicare won’t be allowed to cover the Part B deductible. Because of this, Plans C and F will no longer be available to people new to Medicare starting on January 1, 2020. If you already have either of these 2 plans (or the high deductible version of Plan F) or are covered by one of these plans before January 1, 2020, you’ll be able to keep your plan. If you were eligible for Medicare before January 1, 2020, but not yet enrolled, you may be able to buy one of these plans." https://www.medicare.gov/supplements-other-insurance/how-to-compare-medigap-policies
  12. docj, "Like anything having to do with insurance, it's all a matter of how you prefer to handle risk." Good point. You're right.
  13. "I don't know about any rules for going from an advantage plan to a supplement." Linda, There are no Federal rules about moving from an Advantage Plan to a Supplement. The process and rules are very similar to switching to a new RV insurance company. You shop, they offer you a price if they want to, or tell you they are not interested in insuring you.. The broker, or agent (eHealth is a broker) wants to sell you a Supplement because they, and their agents, get a commission. Typically, about 20% of your policy price for several years and then about half that for the remaining years you stay on their policy. They are intermediaries between you and the company that is actually providing the insurance (e.g. United Health Care, Aetna ...). These underwriters set their acceptance rules. If, in their sole opinion, you're not likely to be profitable, they will reject your application. If you are fortunate enough to not have any chronic health problems, you should at least consider a High Deductible Plan (F+ or G+). Why? Because if your actual medical expenses are less than the HD-Plan's deductible, you're likely to save money by going with the HD version. In my particular case, I've saved more than $6K with a high deductible plan F, over a standard Plan F, since, I became eligible for Medicare in 2014. And a critical point - my catastrophic insurance benefits were identical to a non-HD Plan F during that time. Consider widening your shopping net beyond eHealth. I have no experience with them and am not trying to disparage them. But there may be providers that would be good for you and not profitable for them. For example, the lowest cost Plan F HD plan offered by my (prior employer subsidizsed website) was 80% higher than what I was able to find in the open market. The provider I chose has an AM Best rating of A+. I paid an annual fee of $590 for my Plan F-HD in 2018 and 2019.
  14. "Why do you have to disconnect the positive side, with all those little cables? Why not just remove the ground side? One big wire........." Hmmm. At first I thought - why didn't I at least try that? Yeah, there may be connections to the negative grounded frame, instead of the battery, but it's also possible there aren't. So I walked out to my truck to check. Alas, there are also two small white wires connected to the negative side of the battery bank. So removing either side requires a fat cable and a few wires. And the difficulty of adding a heavy duty switch, to either side, is also about the same. BTW, several(6?) years ago, I bought a solar panel and charger and it didn't work for me. The panel was rigid, about 4 foot long and a foot wide. I, and my Volvo are in Connecticut, and my back yard has trees on all sides but does get some full sun. The panel/charger wasn't able to keep my batteries topped up in the winter or summer. I have no doubt a reasonably sized panel would work for folks without trees, especially in locations closer to the equator. But the one I bought didn't work for me.
  15. Scrap, It can go directly to the power studs on the inverter, and IMO should. You're basically using the solar panel as a trickle charger/maintainer. The low current generated by the panel isn't going to be affected much by a few more feet of wire (especially fat ones). The solar system mfgrs help guy either didn't know what he was talking about or was trying to sell you something.
  16. Wise advice from Moresmoke and RandyA. Better to be safe than sorry. However, if your truck sits for a month or more, without any convenient power source, just disconnecting the ECM may not be sufficient to save your batteries. That is the case with my 2000 Volvo 770. The simplest solution, is to disconnect ALL of the positive wires, including the thick one, from all of your positive battery posts. But over time, you may tire of doing that. I have. A solution, for longer term storage, is a proper switch for the task. Like the starter solenoid, that all of our trucks have. The switch I linked to above, was specifically designed for this task: "Cranking Rating 30 sec 1750A". It's also from a trusted source. It cost a bit less than $100 from Amazon.
  17. On my 2000 Volvo 770, disconnecting all of the small gauge positive wires from the batteries reduces the current draw, but some parasitic draw remains. My truck's stock radio and electric door locks still work when all of the small wires are disconnected. So those components, and I suspect several others, take their power from the battery to starter circuit. I decided not to bother tracing any other loads. My plan is to consolidate all of the positive wires going to my batteries on to a single power post. And run a single wire from it, through a high amperage switch, to the positive post of the battery nearest to the starter. I chose this switch: https://www.bluesea.com/products/3000/HD-Series_Heavy_Duty_On-Off_Battery_Switch
  18. DanZemke


    Everyone is concerned about you and hoping things do not get worse. Hopefully, neither your Teton or cars will be totaled. If not, you'll need to dry things out. If I were you, I would order this fan from Amazon today (assuming you don't have something similar). I bought mine 6 years ago when my basement flooded and am still impressed. It moves much more air than propeller type fans and you will have much more control over the direction of the air flow. It's only $66. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DNGSCM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B001DNGSCM&pd_rd_w=aU5IM&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=cMSkG&pf_rd_r=RCWG5PS9PEW0YBT9JRCB&pd_rd_r=e80d5c8a-980c-4dd3-ad2f-024a97b4c2ae&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMjlGWFNGNzRJQlVVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzgxMjcwMTIxUjdLTDg4TlIyMSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjQ5ODYwMlVQMFM0TDlaVUFBQiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
  19. Clarification. They only accept Visa Credit Cards although the accept may debit cards. https://customerservice.costco.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/719/~/what-payment-methods-are-accepted-at-costco%3F
  20. All valid ones, from Costco members.🙂
  21. SWharton, I googled: What types of credit cards does costco accept in the United States ------------------- The first hit was: Search Results Featured snippet from the web Image result for what types of credit cards does costco accept in the United States As of 2019, the only credit cards Costco accepts are Visa network cards. Costco also accepts cash, checks, debit cards/ATM, Electronic Benefit Transfer (EBT) and Costco Cash Cards. Costco's change to Visa came as a surprise to many, since the retailer had a deal to accept only American Express cards since 1999.Mar 18, 2019 However, that was not directly from Costco, it was from: https://smartasset.com › credit-cards › what-credit-cards-does-costco-accept ------------------------------------------------- This is the first hit I received, that was from Costco (not a 3rd party source): https://customerservice.costco.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/719/~/what-payment-methods-are-accepted-at-costco%3F Costco's current description of in-store payment methods they accept, in the US, appears to differ from your experience.
  22. Thanks! Now I know what he meant about skipping the checkout lines. My post was not meant to debate. It was to clarify statements that were incorrect.
  23. SWharton, I'm not trying to argue with you, but the current facts in my locale (Fairfield County, CT) are different than the oness you expressed. Sams annual fee is less. It is here too. Sams had better hours - not here. Both Sams and Costco's general stores open at 10am. Gas opens earlier. Sams has an app you can use and skip the check out lines - I don't understand "skip the check-out lines". If you mean order on-line, Costco has an app for that too. Sams has self-checkout. So does my Costco. However, they just introduced it a few months ago. My closest Home Depot added self-checkout about 2 years ago. Sams has better meat. My guess is that is a personal opinion and others may differ. But my closest Sams is double the distance to Costco, so I don't use them. Costco only takes their card or MC, no visa. That may have been correct a year ago when Costco's Card was an AMEX. Costco's card is now a Visa, and they accept any Visa card, but not MC. Dan
  24. Unfortunately, I don't. I wish I could afford your design expertise, but you're out of my league. I am a proud owner, of one of your ET Hitches.
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