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About jpcoll01

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  1. Surprised no one mentioned eternabond. I just ripped off approximately 4 pounds of what I assume was Dicor from my roof and replaced with eternabond. I followed the directions and cleaned with the eternacleaner, used the primer and the roller to get it properly sealed. My guess is that this tape will be on there after I have sold the rv and moved on. It seems rock solid.
  2. Everything in life is a trade off I suppose. Finally made a long-time dream came true and bought a used Class C last fall. We are having a blast traveling in it (not full timing, weekends and vacations) but have noticed the need for a car when we get to our location. We do a month out west each summer and usually rent a jeep for some rock crawling or mountain passes (depending on where we are). I have read that a jeep is pretty easy to tow. I used the search function and found some threads similar to this and have noted some of the suggestions for brake systems, tow bars, etc. Seems to me all that wil cost about as much as a dolly, is there a reason to go either way? Understand that I am asking for opinions so don't hesitate to share your thoughts. Also considered selling the RV and getting a truck/5th but we would miss the TV, etc for the kids while driving.
  3. I have an inverter but it is. It wired to anything but one outlet and my refrigerator. My question was about adding a better charger and perhaps solar. Is there an easy way to unhook my factory converter/charger? I actually have no idea where it is.
  4. I added two Group 31 AGM Duracells from Sams so how about 210 Amp Hours. How much of that is usable with AGMs? I was told that they were fine to be taken down to 20% (I.e. Use 80% of the capacity) but that seems suspect. Anyway, my actual question is about solar. I'd like to add a panel or two but I'm not sure I understand the charge controller side of it. My current batteries are hooked up to the converter/charger that came with the RV so I assume I'd have to turn that off and add a different controller?
  5. I ended up installing a Kisae 1000 watt Pure Sine wave inverter. Used 4 gauge battery cable about a 4 foot run. I wired up a new outlet which will work for TV/PlayStation and ran an extension cord to refrigerator. The inverter shows the fridge pulling 60 watts. That seems pretty low.
  6. Maybe I'm missing something here but aren't these roughly the same? Aren't country folks using more gallons of gas to drive those extra miles thus paying more fuel tax?
  7. Followed the instructions above exactly on the front cap of my 2005 class C and it looks amazing. Anyone who didn't have a good experience likely skimped on the prep...don't skimp on the prep work. The results are worth the elbow grease.
  8. Great info! Thanks John.
  9. I'm looking to install some solar on my Class C. I'd like to have enough battery to run a TV and PlayStation 4 while driving along with a Haier fridge. I have gens (onboard if I need air and a small Yamaha for other times) so not really worried about having enough solar to fully sustain the fridge but also don't want to constantly watch it. I am fairly handy and am sure I could do the install but am also juuust lazy enough to let someone else do it if the labor isn't too much. I'm assuming it's most cost efficient to buy individual components but would be willing to look at a kit. I currently have 2 regular deep cycle 12v batteries as coach batteries. Believe I could easily fit 2 6v in their place. Would also consider LIFPO (or whatever the ones are that don't explode) if there was a good packaged solution. I have read a bunch of threads on here but was hoping for some relevant feedback maybe from someone who had rolled their own and someone who had a system installed.
  10. Getting quotes for the building. Looking at steel span and pole barn. Any additional pointers. Based on the plans I shared?
  11. Here are a couple rough sketches, I didn't have any way to do 3d so they aren't perfect, but are to scale (i.e. shows how it fits on the lot). Any feedback based on this? Additional info: Location: KY Zoning: None Water: municipal water on site Sewer: no sewer available Electric: On site Also looking for info on best ways to build the living quarters so that they can be easily winterized (like an RV, plug in an air compressor or let gravity do the work). Thanks in advance.
  12. Kirk, your setup is very similar to what I am thinking of doing. I want it to look like a garage (and hopefully be assessed as a garage for tax purposes) but offer usable living quarters inside which we will use from time to time. 50x50 would work well on my lot I believe. Are there companies that do the engineered steel buildings nationwide or is that a regional thing? I'd just like to get some idea of cost.
  13. I have a FEMA letter of map amendment for the property which puts it in zone X so no flood insurance required. If the water ever gets to ground level of this location the national guard will be in town because all surrounding towns will be under significant water. I am planning on elevating the living quarters because I don't want to have to worry at all if I am in New Mexico or somewhere in the spring time.
  14. Not really above the RV, just raised over part of the garage. The property is on the Ohio river and out of flood zone but I want any living space raised.
  15. Wondering if anyone has plans for a garage with apartment? Also looking for things to avoid or ensure I do. There is a similar thread but the OP was looking for a garage with no power. I want the place to look like a garage with sliding barn type door on the back covering the windows and deck access door from the living quarters. Will have regular insulated garage doors front and rear to allow access and to open up the space to the river. How big is big enough to ensure no matter what rig I buy in the future (have a 31' class c now) it will fit. Thanks in advance for any help.