Pat & Pete Posted May 20, 2020 Report Share Posted May 20, 2020 I have , about 9 years ago . But , I must have done something wrong as it needs doing again . The glass has 'fogged' to the point that , if the sun hits it right , it's like a sheet of dull white paper . Otherwise , I can still see through , just not clearly . It's a rather easy job . Just time consuming and the weather has to cooperate . Lately , it hasn't been exactly perfect or maybe I haven't been . Quote Goes around , comes around . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted May 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2020 What did you seal them with. Just curious Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat & Pete Posted May 20, 2020 Report Share Posted May 20, 2020 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said: What did you seal them with. Just curious Vern I don't recall , exactly . I think it was a good quality non-hardening RTV . I left the old seal in place and simply 'dressed' it with that RTV . I do remember the seal being somewhat supple , yet slightly dried . The dried part is likely part of the reason for moisture getting between the panes . Edited May 20, 2020 by Pat & Pete Quote Goes around , comes around . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rls7201 Posted May 21, 2020 Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) I cleaned and resealed some windows in my Bounder. First, get a magic marker and mark the outside of both panes. I.E. in & out. Measure how far the spacer is from the edge of the glass. Use a handy knife to cut the seal. Separate and clean off all the old seal. Make a square corner from some scrap lumber to reassemble the window in. Get in the sunlight and spend the necessary time to get the inside of both panes perfectly clean. Now you know why the magic marker. Stick the new foam/desiccant spacer to the inside of one pane. (I left 2, 1/8" spaces in my new spacer to flood the window with argon.) Put the pane in the square and place the second pain over it. Press firmly around the edges to form the seal. I then applied 3M Window Weld to the gap, leaving 2 small spaces to flood the the window with argon. Flooded the window with argon and filled the 2 small spaces with the Window Weld. Run finger around the edge of glass to form a U in the sealer and let cure. After the sealer cures, remove the excess sealer from the edges of the glass. Reinstall the glass, clean off the magic marker marks and all your gooey finger prints. Take deep breath, have a cold one and grab the next bad window. Richard Edited May 21, 2020 by rls7201 Quote Richard Shields Gladstone, MO 95 Bounder 32H F53 460/528 stroker engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 Thank you for the detail on this project. I would not of thought of the magic marker idea. Also on using 3 m window weld. I was going to use locative roof and flashing sealer. It is polyurethane based. But over the past few years it has changed in its curing time that was going to be a problem for this project. It will be a few weeks till I get to this, but I will keep posted on this subject. Thanks greatly, Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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