Need help with damaged awning

[kmergen]

We have a 2013 Forest River Sunseeker 3100.

 

Ok, someone (possibly me) decided to drive this morning with the awning still out. It hit a tree branch, which seems to have pulled a few of the screws partially out in the middle and at the top of one of the awning brackets attached to the side of the RV. These screw go directly into the sidewall of the RV, it's not one of those that attaches to an external bracket at the top and bottom.

 

All the screws are still there but have been pulled part way out of the RV sidewall. I tried tightening them and it helped a little, but it seems as if, whatever they were screwed into (possibly wood behind the sidewall?) has been stripped. Any idea what these screw into and/or how to access the area or what to do.

 

I'll call the local RV place in the morning and see what they, but we're only in our current city for another 3 days and won't be in one place for more than a week, for a couple of months. I'd love to know if it's possibly a DIY situation or if it's something that really has to be done by a professional.

 

The awning still works....though due to the screws being looks, the bracket tilts slightly one direction and someone needs to push a bit on the arm when closing the awning to it to close properly. My main concern is that because the screws have been pulled out partially, that water might get into the sidewall if it were to rain. Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks!

[Newt]

Buy some wood tooth picks and Gorilla glue. Take the screws out. Coat the tooth picks with the glue and insert into the hole. FILL THE HOLE AS TIGHTLY AS POSSIBLE. Let the glue dry and run the screws back in snugly, do not over tighten. Coat the screws with what ever sealant you use.

 

Newt

[kmergen]

Thanks Newt! Depending upon any other possible replies, I'll give it a try. One question though....why Gorilla glue and not some type of actual wood glue? Thanks again.

 

-John

[kmergen]

Oh I see Gorilla glue makes a wood glue....maybe that's it.

[Newt]

Gorilla glue works.

[rdickinson]

See if Newt agrees with this, if not toothpicks, which you would use a fair number of, shave down a pce of cedar shingle to close to the size of the hole. Leave enough room for glue, you don't want it all to gish out.

 

My awning is put on with small lag bolts maybe 1/4" with a hex head. It may be a good idea to predrill a pilot hole the size of the lag bolt center shank diameter. That would be the diameter of the bolt minus the threaded part.

 

This is how we dealt with hinge screws in cabinets which needed to be move half a screw width to get things to line up better during the installation or service after.

[Newt]

We're not sure what's in there. If we knew it had wood backing, I'd say drill it out and glue a dowel in.

 

Newt

[theeyres]

I agree with the toothpick solution. You can also use instant glue (the thick wood type) or epoxy. Just make it sure it is outdoor or waterproof glue. Any of these will make the filled holes stronger than the previous holes. And also agree with coating the screw with sealant. Newt nailed it...or screwed it!

[SWharton]

Toothpicks and wood match sticks have been a traditional solution to "hole" problems.

[Chief 62]

In addition to what others have said, go with a longer lag bolt. Hopefully, the bolts they put in did not go entirely through the wood and you may be able to still screw into some new untouched wood.

[rdickinson]

I just had a look at mine. All of the ideas with toothpicks, matches, dowels etc will work especially with the new glues available. No more horse hoof glue to be used. Re longer and a bigger diameter lag bolt, sure, try that. Maybe drill out the bracket for a 5/16 up from 1/4. Length, make sure it doesn't pop thru inside.

 

Re mine, the bracket is white aluminum, pop riveted onto the arm and bolted onto the trailer. If all else fails get or make a different bracket with a longer reach down the side of the trailer....an aluminum extrusion of some sort. One leg could be shortened and drilled to match existing pop rivet holes. I should have done that with mine instead of fighting with it the way I did.

 

Re toothpicks and matches and dowels, I agree with all of them but when doing service work on millwork, I didn't have those with me. Cedar shims....a 5 gallon pail of them.

 

As they say in first aid, 'was the objective met?'

 

Good luck with it.

[kmergen]

Thanks everyone! Going to head to the store later to pick up what I need, then we'll see how it goes..

[jblscooper]

Got to ask, how do you get underway with the awning deployed? Just curious.

 

Jim

[rdickinson]

On my way back from Florida, there was a fairly low bridge somewhere enroute, a couple of hundred yards down the road was someones grey sat dish....ooopssie.

[kmergen]

Got to ask, how do you get underway with the awning deployed? Just curious.

 

Jim

 

Guess my mind was elsewhere. Found we had a can of vegetables roll under the sofa/coach and was busy digging that out so the slide wouldn't get messed up, then was still thinking about having to back up and hook up the tow dolly for our car.

What bothers me the most was that I didn't even get in the driver's side door (opposite the awning), I walked right under the darn thing, through the main entry door, went and sat down and started the engine.

The wife said a couple of weeks ago we should have a checklist. Guess she was right (again).

[Kirk W]

Is your awning attached with screws, or lag bolts, like most of us have? I suspect that you have lag bolts but you do need to be aware of the fact that an awning puts a very heavy stress load on the mountings, especially in windy conditions. The rush issue is part of the problem since you probably want the repair to be permanent and water proof. If water should gain entrance into the wall it could do major damage and sometimes before you are aware of it so be careful. As Gary said, consider longer bolts if you can without damaging the wall or penetrating inside. If you remove the current screws/bolts, you should be able to determine for sure what material is is attached to. In most cases it will be wood but a metal frame is possible. I'd not use wooden matches or toothpicks and glue if it happens to be metal as that probably wouldn't last long. Since most RVs today use laminated walls, you also need to be careful of the chosen glue in case there might be a layer of foam that the glue could melt.

 

My advice is that before you start repairs you need to first know what you are attaching to, then select the method and supplies. The wrong choices could appear OK now but come back to haunt you down the road a year or a few years.

[kmergen]

Yes Kirk, they are lag bolts. I just pulled out a couple that are in need of repair and small bits of wood came out of the hole, so.....I'm assuming they were screwed into wood. Didn't notice any type of metal or the sound of metal from within the hole.

[kmergen]

There are 11 lag bolts attaching that side of the awning, and it looks like I will probably need to repair 5 of them, basically all of them on one side of the bracket arm. Fortunately it doesn't appear to have hit with enough force to pull both rows out. The majority of them appear to be 1.25 inches, but one I pulled out is 1.75, so I'll probably go to Home Depot and get all 1.75

[Ronbo]

I would not use wood glue. It won't last under the stress. Use the toothpicks but use epoxy such as job weld. I used 5200 when replacing my arm but I didn't pull the bolts out. Mask the area with masking tape so you don't get the epoxy all over. Coat the hole with epoxy and then coat each toothpick with epoxy before inserting them. Have them sticking out slightly and trim in about 30. Jb weld has some fast setting epoxy. Let it set overnight and then redrill the holes.