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F 250 "Trailer Wiring Fault"


ANG0225

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Just hooked up my 2015 F250 to my Coachmen Chaparal. As I started towing, the display said "Training Wiring Fault" . My brake lights work, my turn signals work. What else could it be? How can I make sure that the brakes on my 5er work.

 

A little history. About 4 months ago, I accidentally pulled out the cable from the junction box. I hooked it all back up and everything seemed to work.

 

TIA

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Most brake controllers will have a manual brake lever that will actuate the brakes and is used in adjusting the controller settings. You can test the trailer brakes by moving the truck slowly and actuate the brakes using the manual lever. If the brakes do not work, I would start by testing to see if there is power being supplied to the seven pin connector on the truck when the manual actuator and break pedal are used. If there is no power to the brake pin on the truck, I would recheck the wires that you pulled loose. The brake wire is often a blue wire.

 

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Just hooked up my 2015 F250 to my Coachmen Chaparal. As I started towing, the display said "Training Wiring Fault" . My brake lights work, my turn signals work. What else could it be? How can I make sure that the brakes on my 5er work.

 

A little history. About 4 months ago, I accidentally pulled out the cable from the junction box. I hooked it all back up and everything seemed to work.

 

TIA

 

Cable from junction box ? are you talking about the steel cable that goes to box mounted on the frame of trailer ? If so that is an emergency brake should your trailer become disconnected while moving. If that pin that came out is not installed properly your trailer brakes will be engaged until your trailer battery goes dead, which would not take very long.

 

Jim

 

 

 

 

Jim Spence

2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB

BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans

34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch

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It's difficult to diagnose without more information, but I think Jim is on the right track. It could be a bad ground in the pin box, the break-away switch, the brake signal circuit, or a bad ground in the magnetic brakes themselves.

 

Electric brakes on trailers are not meant to be engaged for any great length of time, so.. if in fact the break-away switch had been activated.. supplying 'full' charge to your magnetic brakes.. there is a likelihood that either the wiring or the magnets themselves may have been damaged. Since the braking and lighting circuits are independent, it's also possible for your brake lights to be working while they braking system itself is inoperable.

 

In any event, I would first test the brakes by engaging them manually as TT suggested. If they fail to engage, I wouldn't attempt to move your rig until the brakes themselves have been inspected and the issue fully resolved.

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I was asking about the brake control? :)

Kirk,

 

Based on his response, I believe he has the integrated break controller that is available on the 2015 F-250. The break controller information of those integrated models shows up on the dashboard information display. There is no separate display for the controller and the only really visible part of the controller is the actuator bars/lever and the gain control buttons. I don't know who the actual manufacturer of the break control unit is.

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Normally, that error is a bad ground circuit on the connector plug or at the trailer connection. Ford's BCM will send a low voltage current thru the brake wire and expects a good return ground in the plug. The system will still work as the trailer will often ground thru the hitch ball but a loose ground wire in the trailer box or plug will give that error.

 

Edit:

 

If your manual controller will apply the trailer brakes, check your ground. If the brakes on the trailer do not work, the fault will more than likely be on the +12 volt wiring. Use a meter to check your pins on the truck and if they are OK, check continuity on your trailer umbilical between the plug and your box. More than likely, the problem will be in one of those two places.

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
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If your manual controller will apply the trailer brakes, check your ground. If the brakes on the trailer do not work, the fault will more than likely be on the +12 volt wiring. Use a meter to check your pines on the truck and if they are OK, check continuity on your trailer umbilical between the plug and your box. More than likely, the problem will be in one of those two places.

Another way to trouble shoot this would be to connect the plug without the trailer on the hitch. See if the symptom indication is the same with it plugged in but not touching the hitch. If it changes, that sounds like the ground wire.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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I experienced this issue on my '07 F250 with the built in brake controller. It kept showing a similar warning. We were on a trip coming home pulling the 5th wheel. Long story short I discovered that the 5th wheel hitch had accidentally pulled the break-away cable from the 5th wheel. Once I reseated it and all was good. Probably not your issue but just thought I would throw it out there.

 

Steve

2007 Pilgrim M378 SA4S-5

 

e9132d54-0b3a-4ebb-ae60-dd6b6d56e047_zps

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I experienced this issue on my '07 F250 with the built in brake controller. It kept showing a similar warning. We were on a trip coming home pulling the 5th wheel. Long story short I discovered that the 5th wheel hitch had accidentally pulled the break-away cable from the 5th wheel. Once I reseated it and all was good. Probably not your issue but just thought I would throw it out there.

 

Steve

 

Were you rolling with the pin out? That shouldn't be possible, or at least noisy and smoky.....

Previously a 2017 Forest River, Berkshire 38A, "The Dragonship". https://dragonship.blog/

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Were you rolling with the pin out? That shouldn't be possible, or at least noisy and smoky.....

I did roll a bit. This was when I first picked up the 5er and realized how far out of adjustment the brakes were. All fixed now. Point is I got the same error message on my brake controller.

 

Steve

2007 Pilgrim M378 SA4S-5

 

e9132d54-0b3a-4ebb-ae60-dd6b6d56e047_zps

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I still think the cable for the safety brake is not plugged back in properly and the batteries on the trailer are not charged thus giving him the signal on the dash that he is getting, and the brakes were properly adjusted if that pin was in place. I think a phone conversation would do him a world of good about now because I think he's getting confused by the different inputs

 

edit : Steve try disconnecting the posotive cable on the 5er battery and see if the error message goes away on dash. That will let us know if its in your safety switch

Jim Spence

2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB

BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans

34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch

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