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Teton slide adjustment


Steve from SoCal

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Getting ready to move into the Teton, I noticed the living room slide is not sealing at the top. The slide seems like it is racked the rear is a bit closer to the outside than the front upper corner. The frame is level and the slide is clearly low in front. I see the bolts with nuts on both sides to adjust the slide in the travel position, the travel position of the slide is actually pretty good. My best guess is the slide needs to come out further on the forward jack screw, I removed the access cover and see the jack screw and drive motor. The odd thing is, the lower part of the slide is within an eight of an inch front to back? The gap at the top is about 1/2 inch at the rear corner widening to 1 1/2 at the front.

 

Steve

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Before You adjust the slide tubes, check the floor under the front of the slide. It sounds as if it has dropped down. Normally the top of the slide rolls out as the weight shifts and the top of the slide contacts the wall first.

Randy,

 

The floor IS low, I am a complete newb, I thought it was an aspect f the slide?

 

Steve

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If that section of the floor needs to be replaced as it seems, it is usually easiest to remove the slide. However, I didn't want to remove it so I replaced the rotten section from underneath. It took 2 or 3 days of working under there as I had to chisel out a lot of the floor. Then I replaced the floor with 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood stacked to equal the 1" floor. It has been a number of years since I fixed it but I remember it was easier than one 1" piece. As I slid the second piece in I covered it in glue. Then the outer edge was lined with angle iron spanning to the metal braces on each side. On our Teton the side floor was still good but a leak could have compromise that too.

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This is pretty much in line with what I did on my bedroom slide last Summer. I too used 1/2" plywood, 2 layers of pressure treated plywood with the grain going parallel with the side of the trailer as opposed to using an end pce cut off the end of a sheet.

 

Add to that the application of the black waterproof membrane on the underside. That was applied in 3 sections to make handling easier. One side was held in place with masking tape, the other side was then sprayed with 3m spray contact and flipped up and rolled then the taped section was dropped and the performance repeated.

 

It was a pile of work and not easy to do upside down. But like RR's, pulling the slide out wasn't an option.

 

The problem was caused by leakage. 2 firms in Calgary did sloppy work, one initially and the second installing carpet over an already wet and rotting floor to the point the bolts holding the slideout wall to the floor pulled out.

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Thanks to Randy and Roger on a fix. I shimmed the front of the slide and the top sealed up nicely.

 

The affected area is about 2/3 of the slide opening, I will wedge a pipe noodle in the gap for the time being. The trailer is in a heated shop so I can do this as time allows. Anybody know the procedure for removing the slide? I have two other big projects to finish before I start on this, any and all info is welcome.

 

I don't have any issues with doing the repair with the slide in place however, if removing the slide is practical I have the means to do it.

 

Thanks again to all who contribute here, the resources are astounding!

 

Steve

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You would need to remove the inside facia. The front one would attach from the backside with those horrible Phillips #2 screws. Put tape on each pce and number it and take pics. The second or backer pce will screw on from the front. They have to come off as well.

 

Disconnect the apparatus that slides it in or out. Be careful not to pull on the wiring for switches and receptacles.

 

Get all furniture off the slide and get your forklift with some blocks on it to deal with the ouside flange, 2" or so so a 4x4 would work and pull it out just beyond normal range of travel.

 

The thing is, is the slideout double layer, one layer underneath and one on the inside the furniture sits on and are they both rotten. Like an ice cream sandwich. The inside floor in my case is 3/4" plywood single layer.

 

You will need to see if the plate that the studs sit on is rotten, some of mine was. It had to be cut out, and treated with that Git Rot product then the void filled in to original measurements. Use gloves that stuff sticks to your skin. It is water soluble for a short period of time then it won't come off.

 

I'd use a double layer of 1/2" pressure treated plywood and stagger the joints like a concrete block wall.

 

Even out, it is still going to be a PITA to work upside down. Shoulders will ache dust in the face etc.

 

When you say 2/3's do you mean in length or from outside wall to inside the coach?

 

You also need to find the source or reason for the leak and del with that.

 

Are the little metal fingers that hold the seal in place rusting and falling off or has it come unglued or maybe the wrong seal???

 

Sounds like a lot of work and it is but it is doable.

 

Geo was over yesterday and gave me some help with Photoshop. I installed a drip channel on my slidout side to prevent water from running back inside. I'll take some pics and try to post them. If I can't I'll ask Geo to post them for me.

 

Are you in the LA area?

 

R

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As JC and Angie mentioned above, you might try contacting Shaun at Forks RV (574) 825-7467. They might be willing to explain their procedure for removing the slide and making the repairs you need.

 

As far as Teton ownership in general, you might consider joining the Teton Club International at <http://www.tetoners.org>. Their newsletters contain many articles about repairs and solutions to problems common to Tetons. It is a wealth of information. I'm no longer a member since we no longer own a Teton but when we were members, the "Members Only" portion of the site included an index that linked subject to articles in the newsletters. It was very helpful. That particular forum is no longer very active but there is a Yahoo members forum that is a little more active. At least it was a couple of years ago.

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Roger,

 

The location is Hutchinson, Ks. The area effected is about 2/3 of the slide opening, looking at the floor from outside the black plastic is sunken in this area. There may be more water intrusion that is not manifest as total rot, very likely. The area that is rotted is right where the spray from the center and rear axles would occur. Upon further investigation the wood is bad from under the center of the kitchen counter to the middle of the slide opening. There is no sign of water leaks or water damage in the wall or slide.

 

I joined the Yahoo group last night, I may try calling Forks if the details are not forthcoming.

 

Steve

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Roger,

 

The location is Hutchinson, Ks. The area effected is about 2/3 of the slide opening, looking at the floor from outside the black plastic is sunken in this area. There may be more water intrusion that is not manifest as total rot, very likely. The area that is rotted is right where the spray from the center and rear axles would occur.

 

Is there a tear, void or gap in the black vapor barrier in that area?

 

 

 

 

Upon further investigation the wood is bad from under the center of the kitchen counter to the middle of the slide opening. There is no sign of water leaks or water damage in the wall or slide.

 

What about in the sink cabinet or where the plumbing comes thru the floor? Could it be the plumbing couplings, fridge water connections if you have them or the sink drain. Are you referring to the cabinet bottom itself?

 

I joined the Yahoo group last night, I may try calling Forks if the details are not forthcoming.

 

Steve

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The black plastic "looks" intact? The kitchen is ahead of the slide on the curb side, the kitchen faucet was bad when I got the trailer. I put a Grohe faucet in and there are no leaks now, the faucet or drain pipe could have been the culprit. The other water damage on the floor below the fridge was due to a frozen valve that split. The trailer sat out in Penn winters, there was trace amounts of antifreeze in a few places, my guess is it was stored poorly several years ago. The original owner stopped using the trailer 3~4 years ago.

 

I am disappointed and upset about the actual condition Vs what I was told, my bad for not looking at in person. I buy a lot of stuff over the internet, everything from clothes to industrial machinery, usually it is as represented or better! I foolishly took the owners sons words at face value. Is it the end of the world; no, I will fix the trailer up and use it and enjoy it. I have the skills and equipment to do what ever it takes to make the trailer right and, I am already into it this far. This may push me over the edge and paint the whole thing when I am done with the repairs. Would I buy another 5Th wheel without personally inspecting it, not on a bet.

 

Steve

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I was wondering if you meant the sink cabinet bottom was rotten. If it is it can be cut out using a router and straight flute or spiral bit or Roto Zip. Drop the router down, a plunge cut, and use the inside of the cabinet gable and back as a guide for the router base and go around the perimeter. You'd need a straight edge at the front as a guide. The shelves are, in my case, a sandwich of 1/8" ply with a spacer in between to give the overall thickness of just over an inch.

 

You may only need to replace the top one or cut all the way thru to check the trailer floor underneath for problems.

 

Is the rotted area black, powdery and dry or is it black and wet? Black and wet doesn't mean rotten. Dry it and coat it with the Rot stuff I mentioned.

 

Another shelf can be installed on top of the cutout, 2 pcs if needed, just tape the front edge to match.

 

What were the other projects on your plate?

 

I wouldn't beat yourself up about the condition. They are a good trailer. With the issues I've dealt with both on the trailer and truck, I just suck it up, deal with it and move on.

 

Also not everything works out as planned so re -do it and move on again.

 

This is what I did with the generator.

 

You are sort of on my way from Victoria/Vancouver BC to Florida. If I can get away and that is questionable with Mum's health sliding. Besides center of the continent doesn't seem to rv friendly weatherwise in December or Feb.

 

R

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