Rethinking it from the ground up...

[bobk3d]

Thanks for clarifications. I sort of knew the F-350 was about the same as the F-250, since both are rated the same. But I'll be shopping used, and it's much easier to find good deals on F-250's; Chevy/Dodge the same story.

 

The other thing I notice, in the Ford lineup anyway, is that in terms of GCWR, the next worthwhile step up from a base Gas/3.73/SRW is is to go Diesel DRW. In between, the options are Gas/4.30/SRW, Gas DRW, and Diesel SRW. All are relatively scarce in the used market, and only marginally higher in capacity.

[outwestbound]

I made my purchase late 2013 and launched 5/15. I would have ended up in a wheeled bath tub without the help from folks on this forum. The primary reason I wanted the IS and disc brakes was because, fully loaded, the truck is only about 1/3 the total combined weight of the rig. The truck is about 9,200# and the total is 28,500#. This could get hairy on downhill descents, which I still believe. Willingly or unwillingly, you need to understand how all the vehicle weight threshold values function independently and combined. I would buy a better quality used unit and fix it up. Not having an "artic" package would be a concern. While you can add underbelly insulation in terms of spray on, batting and a membrane, I guess, you can't do much about the walls and ceiling. I'd find a used unit with decent insulation and do the underbelly yourself, if at all depending on climate. Be sure the unit you buy is insurable, based on age. Identify which state you will select for domicile (FL or TX maybe), so that if you get preliminary insurance advice, it comes from the correct state. Get a "full timer package", rather than an endorsement to an existing auto policy.

 

As to acquisition, identify which trailer you want - maybe get the list down to 2 that you would be indifferent to. Then, develop a target price range you'd buy in by using comparables that are for sale. Verify what it may be insured for, plus there are some online services that provide value, similar to cars. There is an online service that reports recalls. If any apply, verify that they were completed in a targeted unit. Obviously, have it inspected to boot.

 

Point is, be ready to jump on a deal when it comes up. If a unit is out of your target value range on the low side, make sure it's an owner issue, not the trailer. If it's 1,800 miles away, tie it up with a contingent contract, get it inspected, before you consider traveling to get it. Don't worry about kicking something to the curb if it has issues. Many folks are baffled by the blizzard of options in the market, so complete your homework and be specific in your targeting and acquisition. Figure out how you'll take delivery and what needs to be done to ensure it couples up to your truck properly. If you're going to drive 1,500 to take delivery yourself, try to figure out if it will couple up and run level. Folks are sometimes surprised that modifications to the trailer's suspension may be necessary to get a level ride. The camper should run level so the weight is evenly distributed to each trailer axel.

 

I like the size you're targeting, because you'll be able to access the state parks that are more about "camping" and aren't parking lots like may "camp ground" really are. At 37', I barely fit into some places and have scratches to prove it. Some little state parks are too still too small, but I get into most if and only if I can get to the site, and some I cant' due to the road's inability to accommodate my rig's overall length and height.

 

Good luck.