lartross Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I'm not sure this is the appropriate category to post this in, but...I've got this old 2003 coachman chaparral, admittedly not a premo unit, but I'm poorish and it's what I could afford. I've pretty much gone through it, upgraded converter, new frig, new water heater added fresh water tank, filter system, replaced a lot of plumbing stuff and rebuilt commode, wired for sat tv, painted it...and there's the rub. With fresh paint it's obvious there's some delamination in the bedroom area. My inclination is to ignore it because I'm just kinda' tired of working on it, I'm not good at body work and I really can't afford to pay at this time. I'm looking for someone to reassure me that it'll be OK for awhile. Is there anyone out there that would say that? Honestly-ish. 2003 Coachman Chaparal 276 RLS 2000 F250, 7.3l auto ext. cab 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skp51443 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Sorry, I wouldn't say that... However if you find the cause of the delamination, likely a leak, and fix it then things should stabilize and you can ignore it for a while. Once you go to fix it you really need to determine just what the issue is. If it is just the fiberglass coming free of the plywood you can likely fix it with some glue and big clamps. Think 2x4 lumber and ropes for the clamps so you can put pressure on the fiberglass you just glued down until the glue sets. However if there is bad news and the underlying plywood has also delaminated the repair job is a lot harder, some folks don't try to do a repair of this type of damage on an older rig and just add lots of glue to stabilize the area. Just find the reason it started and fix it for now. First rule of computer consulting: Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day. Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lartross Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Oh thank you Stan...I have sealed things up. when I bought it it had a deep gouge along the side, before, through and after the slide. I spent months repairing on that darn thing and have gotten it functional, if not too pretty up close. I did tons of stuff eliminating possible leaks. I was concerned the delamination might effect the strength of the unit, but, common sense tells me it probably will only be a big factor in big wind. I'm hoping that's the case 'till I can rathole more money 2003 Coachman Chaparal 276 RLS 2000 F250, 7.3l auto ext. cab 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 If there are no more leaks then you will probably be OK for at least a while. Repairing delamination problems is difficult at best and may or may not be all that successful, at least as far as my observations go. I have not personally done any of that sort of work, so all that I know about it is just hearsay. What I can tell you is that there are many RVs out on the road with at least some delamination issues and some of them seem to continue that way for quite some time with very little change in the amount as long as there are no leaks. Leaks can destroy an RV. A major part of the issue is just how bad the lamination problems are. If it is a few small areas, I don't think that I'd be too concerned but just watch them. If they start to get worse, then you may have no choice but to attempt a repair. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 L & K where specifically is the delamination, a main wall or in a slideout? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lartross Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Main wall, near the bedroom windows on each side. The drivers side is worse...about 10 sq feet. I've been mulling it over and it seems if I made a rig out of a coupla' long 2x4s, held together with a strap at the top, drapped across the roof, I could drill a smallish hole in the fiberglass, shoot in some glue [don't know what kind and fashion a pad to pressurize the delaminated area by attaching a ratcheting strap to the bottom of the 2x4's and stabilize that area. Does that sound reasonable? Then I'd just have to waterproof my little holes and a dad of paint...do you think I'm thinking right? 2003 Coachman Chaparal 276 RLS 2000 F250, 7.3l auto ext. cab 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 deleted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skp51443 Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Main wall, near the bedroom windows on each side. The drivers side is worse...about 10 sq feet. I've been mulling it over and it seems if I made a rig out of a coupla' long 2x4s, held together with a strap at the top, drapped across the roof, I could drill a smallish hole in the fiberglass, shoot in some glue [don't know what kind and fashion a pad to pressurize the delaminated area by attaching a ratcheting strap to the bottom of the 2x4's and stabilize that area. Does that sound reasonable? Then I'd just have to waterproof my little holes and a dad of paint...do you think I'm thinking right? That is pretty close to what we have seen. When gluing make sure to use a pressure roller to get the glue to every spot that is even thinking of coming free. If you have an existing screw hole in the area or border on a window or door frame inject the glue from there. For a pad a piece of 3/4 ply, 2" soft foam and another piece of 3/4 ply makes a good pressure pad. Use plenty of 2x4s, don't crank really hard on just one or two or you'll snap them or get uneven pressure. If the plywood is deteriorating you'll need more pressure, longer. Taking the pad off a day late hurts nothing, 10 minutes too soon is a disaster, keep that in mind as your fingers itch to see how it looks under there! First rule of computer consulting: Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day. Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Take the windows out and strap across the middle also Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Also be careful in your choice of glue as many glues will melt Styrofoam of the insulation. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skp51443 Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Glue choice is really critical, as Kirk mentioned melting can be a problem as can not sticking. I've seen folks glue up Filon and find that the glue pops off easier than an egg in a Teflon pan. Filon and usage guides: http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=2122 (PDFs at bottom of page) First rule of computer consulting: Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day. Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lartross Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Thanks Stan. I ordered some sikaflex and will start to address my issue soon. 2003 Coachman Chaparal 276 RLS 2000 F250, 7.3l auto ext. cab 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 www.irv2.com/forums/f87/delaminated-skin-114498.html www.irv2.com/forums/f44/filon-or-gel-coat-fiberglass-30160.html I wasn't going to involve myself with this any more, clearly you didn't like what you were told, that is part of the reason I deleted the post. This is not an easy fix. The only way to get Sikaflex even close to being thin is to wrap it in a heat blanket or put it in hot water. If you put it in a micro wave for too long, it will blow up. I've seen Eastern European painters try this with caulking in Calgary, you chuck the micro. PL premium is very thick, PL 8000 is much thinner. ALL of the suggestions sent to you are covered in the first topic. Find the cause of delamination, it may not be water. The cause may be a poor glue job. Find and stop the leak(s), if there are any. Remove inside wall paneling Remove foam, it is a closed cell foam. This could be salvaged but I wouldn't put new glue over old. It has already let go once, why risk it again? Remove Luan paneling glued to skin Dry everything Parking next to a wall with braces b/w wall and trailer. If you cut the plywood out for the window, the window need not be removed. Unless there is another reason to do so. All 3 people and firms I contacted are experts in this and related areas. Another glue firm is West Epoxy Systems. I know you were not thrilled by the info provided the other day. That was obvious. Read through the topic a couple of times. I believe the 4 of us are on the mark. Not including me there is over 70 yrs experience with the other 3. This isn't their first rodeo. Good luck with whatever method/process you try or use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moisheh Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 More than likely the window is the source of your leak. If the delam is in that area you may be able to clamp the wall by removing he window. An alternative is to park your unit next to a wall ( garage, house) and apply pressure from the house to the sidewall by using a very small hydraulic jack and 2x4's. You will need some hitech glue. Try a body shop supply house. If the interior of the wall is rotten or wet no glue will hold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 If the problem extends up to or very near to the window, I would definitely remove the window first. The only way to be sure that a window does not leak is to remove it and replace the butyl caulk that is used around the edges with new and then tighten until a little bit squeezes out all around. Only with the window out will you be able to make sure that there is no water entry point because it is quite possible that the water which caused the leak got into the wall but not inside of the RV so it didn't show. With the window out you will not only be able to check for signs of leakage but if the problem reaches the opening it will be far less difficult to get the glue into the opening. Some manufacturers put a sealant covering the edges of the wall around each window opening to help prevent water intrusion, while others just put the window into the raw opening. I have seen them both ways and while I prefer the sealed edges, it is probably easier to tell if there is a problem at the window with the raw edges. While I have little practical experience with repairing lamination problems, I have repaired several window leak issues both on my own RV and also helping others. Entry doors can also have that same problem and if leaking the fix is the same but most likely then it will show up as a soft floor. Removing a window requires two people but it is not a difficult job and neither is the reinstalling of one. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 Take the trim off so you can access the bad wood under the loose area. That is if the edge of the panel is loose. everyone that I have done has been different. Be careful as to not crack the outside panel surface. Once you get the panel loose them prop it so you can do the work underneath. I have removed the drivers side window on a Monaco coach, all the trim around the fiberglass panel, slowly worked the panel loose form th wall , repair the wood where needed and glued it back in place without cracking the paint. If the material underneath is respectable then apply a good water base glue. Do the best you can to get the glue where you need it and the proper amount. Then clamp with 2 by what ever and let set for two or more days. If you drill holes in the fiberglass and insert glue it may not have any solid surface to adhere to, Or may not squeeze out like it should be. If you drill holes in the fiberglass then when the panel is tight then repair the drilled holes with bell coat Most of this work is not hard, just that it needs patience and some thinking on what to do. Safe Travels, Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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