Wrknrvr

If there is wiring on the rear of the hot water heater then it is most likely a Dometic unit. If the front of it has a PCB that has two plug connections on it, then the front thermostat controls both gas and electric heating element. How do you turn the electric heating element on. If it is a small 12vdc wall switch, then the wiring to that switch could be the problem. The 12vdc switch controls a relay that operates the 110 vac. Then it goes through its own thermostat controls on the rear of the heater . That area on the rear of the heater that has the wiring is a pain to work on. Most of the time the wire nut has a connection problem as the water heater most likely has stranded wire. The power feed wire will be solid wire. Putting those wires together with a wire nut does not work the best.

Yesterday I had new steer tires installed on our truck. Wrote them a check, while not having my closeup glasses on. They took the check. I said thank you and walked out the door. They called today said ( senior moment) happened. I did not write the check out properly. DW went in and handed them a proper check.

Although anti-inflammatory activity is mostly attributed to salicin (13), the main bioactive compound in willow bark, catechol and flavonoid compounds have also been found to be responsible (12). Willow bark inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines TNF-alpha and COX-2, and nuclear translocation of the transcription factor NF-κB (1). It was also found to significantly raise low glutathione levels, thereby limiting lipid peroxidation (14). Antiproliferative effects in human colon and lung cancer cells are due to growth inhibition and apoptotic induction (15). In vitro and animal models suggest that salicin can inhibit ROS and ERK signaling pathways to produce antiangiogenic effects (4).

I will say my ophthalmologist is quit interested in what I am doing for my treatment. He was sorta disappointed that we were headed south east for the winter. But I am going to go into his office this week and give him some more info I have found about willow bark. And it’s medical use. I need to pickup my records from the last two visits. Now I have found some info from the Mayo Clinic, the National Institute of health and a few other good sources, that does explain how it could work. There is some studies that have been done in the last 15 years. And some info does show that works on some vascular problems. Let me say that reading and trying to understand medical wording is rather confusing. Will post a link to some info later.

So I have been have eyesight problems since the summer of 2020. I have posted my experience under the heading Being diagnosed with Macular Degeneration. But has that been true from the beginning. I will say that without the internet I would still be getting shots in both eyes. My Ophthalmologist is rather perplexed as to my condition and my experience in my recovery. So I am going post a link to a actors experience with possibly the same disease. Actor Ashton Kutcher's rare autoimmune condition If you search this heading you can find what can happen with this disease. With research about it you can see that it is sorta rare. And it can affect people differently. It is possible that I should see a rheumatologist.

It is still dark in Montana at this time. Will take a photo later this am. Hopefully it has flushed out by now. Filling the tank is a good idea. But then the system is not usable at that time. Or until it is emptied. When I was doing rv repair I carried a clear 90 elbow for the sewer line. So I could see what or if anything was flowing out. I recommend that you get one and install it so you can see what is happening. There has been more than once that I was called for a plugged black tank. Installed that clear fitting. Had the customer fill the bowl in the toilet.. Dump the bowl of water and. That bowl of water came out as I could see it pass through that clear fitting They apparently had a valve that was not closed fully from the last dump. But probably had a pile in there. Maybe even floaters. I told them to use 1 bowl of water for a number 1. Two bowls of water when there is a number 2 to be dumped. With the water in the tank the plug may float up and out of the way. It should get soft and naturally dissolve in time. I really hope you have had a false alarm on this subject

Is it after the tank valve. Or before it. I can take a picture of a tool in the am and post it. Is the underside closed or is it open on your rv. Vern

This is another update on my eyesight and my time at the ophthalmologist. After almost 4 months I finally went for a checkup at my ophthalmologist. Past my eye exam. Had my eyes dilated. Then, after awhile I got to see my ophthalmologist. He asked how I was doing. I said good. Then he looked into my eyes with his equipment. So today he said you do not need any shots in the eyes. The last time I have had a shot in the eye was December 18th last year. He is quit confused. But he has started to be interested in situation. I have more web sites to give him for what could be happening. So for now I am thinking I had more than one thing wrong in my eyes. I will say that the injections may have improved two problems that the were distorting a small area of sight . One in each eye. But they are different subjects. One was a extremely small fussy line to the upper edge of my left eye. No where that it affected my actual vision. Just since the beginning of this issue have I really paid attention to my vision and anything that I noticed to be different. That fuzzy line has probably shrank by 50 percent. On my right eye while looking at a amsler grid. There is a distortion to the right of my central vision. It has shrank in size and dose not affect my line of sight. So the next part of my vision is my actual ability to see straight out of my eyes. When I was getting eye shots my vision would start to be really good in a few days. Then I would go about life sorta not thinking about said subject. But then little hints of my problems would start to appear. O, I know my next appointment is in 10 days. Well it was time to get shots. Yep stick that needle into each eye. I will post what my aspirin/ willow bark treatment has been doing for me tomorrow am. I need to start working on packing as we are leaving next Sunday, or there about. Will keep informed, Vern

If I was there doing a service call on this unit. The first thing to do is to unplug the 110 vac power. That way you cannot get shocked. Then I work remove the dc power from the board. Thinking about it you could use your old board. Then plug all wires into the old PCB. But not the connection to the eyebrow board. Now test for 12vdc power coming out of the PCB headed towards the eyebrow board. There has to be power coming out of the main board. The next thing is to unplug the eyebrow board, then plug the connector into the main PCB that connects the eyebrow board. There has to be 12vdc power to the eyebrow board. So I would suggest using the ground connection for the main PCB for all testing. I would go so far as to skin some insulation off the ground wire to make sure you are getting a very good ground. I am talking about the main ground wire before the terminal end. A ground problem can cause trouble shooting a 12vdc system very confusing. I would also replace the fuses on your old board. Just replace them with good fuses. Let us know what your results are . Will try to help more if needed. Vern

Before you lube it with anything. I would suggest putting some Levi shine or clr in the bowl with a full bowl of water. Say two tablespoons of said substance. Let is sit for a hour or three. That should dissolve iron out mineral build up. Next thing to do after flushing the first treatment down, then put a half cup of simple green in the bowl with a quart of water. Leave that sit foe a few hours. Flush as needed. Just my thinking

I would think about judging the rest of the truck to compare how it was taken care of. If it looks respectable inside and out then that could indicate it was sorta taken care of. Now if other things are sorta tough, then it might be time to look elsewhere. Today I seen a local dump truck that had oil on the front right side lug nuts. It was very noticeable. I would think DOT mite pull him over for a inspection. Mismatched tires on the rear axle. Not very clean on the outside. Now no comment on my Jeep. I now it workings are respectable. Corvette motor with 80,000 miles on it. It may not look it. But it really is a rat rod in disguise.

On there website it has the park is closed due to the weather. Reds Oaks down the street has flooding in there park according to a local paper. Hope they are ok down there. I tried to post a link but couldn’t.

Just wanted to keep everyone updated on my eye situation. I have not had any concerns about my eyes to see the ophthalmologist about. Still taking willow bark daily. Although I did skip 7 days as I was doing a topical shin cancer treatment and did not one it to cause a problem. Still no problems. I changed my next ophthalmologist appointment to a mid October date. We are trying to leave Montana before the end of October. I have hobby that really involves seeing good. So I have been using that for comparing my vision concerns. Safe Travels, Vern

I was sorta confused about it starting if the solenoid was jumped. But was someone else. More thinking and testing as Darryl said. Bad ignition switch. Just throwing thoughts

You are correct Rick. But when my does not start I do hear a click in the dash area. Like I said it does it, say once in twenty starts. But it always starts the next time. But basics will eliminate the things that work. And yes it can be frustrating until the problem cam be found and fixed. I chased a right headlight high beam working sporadically for say three years. Put a new switch in the dash. Chased wiring connections. There are several connections until it gets to the bulb. Finally had the problem get big enough and expose itself to say I found it.

So if you look at the lower right of this target there are 3 holes. The black target is actually a 11” painted pie pan. The target base is 42” across. And 6’ high. For the 3 bottom holes my elevation adjustment was at. 3 1/4 turns up. So I adjusted it to 4 1/4 turns. Fired 2 rounds. Did not see any marks on the target. So I adjusted the view I was seeing at the target to have the bullseye to the right of my sight ring, but still inside the sight ring. Fired my last round. And hit high above the bullseye. So yesterday I looked at the target again. I noticed the holes on the right side of the upper part of the target. So I think I am making progress. The last time I was there, there was another long range black powder shooter there. I have seen him there before. But never talked to him. He does hoot at 1000 yards competition. But he needs a scope to see the target.

The other week I decided to cheat, sorta on this subject. I went to a gun show and bought two different creedmore style bullet molds. I think of it as visiting a trading post. Actually it was. So I have to admit I really flunked making bullet molds. When I find time I will pursue that again. But this target is my 300 yard target. So I did shoot at 100 and 200 yards. The new bullet molds are copies from the Creedmore shooting competition from the late1800 hundreds.

I am wondering if there is a start relay in the upper dash area in with the fuses. It has been years since I looked in ours, but there could be one there. So the ignition switch would activate that relay to actually activate the start relay on the starter itself. Just thinking

https://www.volvotrucks.us/-/media/vtna/files/shared/body-builder/wiring-diagrams/22622040031w

Some starter have the OCP Over Crank Protection it's a switch in serie for ground relay supply to cut the ground of the relay (to stop cranking) if the starter temperature comes I found this on the net. At times there is a relay on our 610 that clicks but the truck will not start. Next try it starts. It’s been doing that for years. It sounds like it is behind the dash cluster. I did send some other info to another member for him to post it as my computer will not allow me. There use to be info on the HDT resource guide. But I cannot find it.

I just looked at a video on YouTube about your model of fifthwheel. I was looking for how much of the underside of your fifthwheel is covered from the elements. I can see the rear of the rv is probably not covered as in either a plastic cover or metal from side to side or not. But looking at the sides of the rv it looks like the body lines are straight. So that would make skirting in much easier. I would suggest that the front also be enclosed. Look around the hitch where it enters the body. For air leeks. Every little bit of air stopped with make things more comfortable and cheaper to keep interior temps respectable.. I will say that this is from real life experience. When bought a fifthwheel and moved in in mid January in Pennsylvania. While hooking up the electrical cord that day, snow was flying sideways. But we made the decision to go rving full time with nooooooo time to figure this stuff out. . Well the heat was on, the fridge was working and the tv was operational. We did it. So heck it was time to go to bed. Got undressed, crawled into bed, And crawled back out. Told the wife to get in and get my side warm first. She did what I did. Ok it will warm up if we stay still, long enough. That had to be one of the coldest nights I ever slept anywhere. Even in boy scouts, or at hunting camps. Or just in a van, in Montana, in a down filled sleeping bag. Well the next day I figured out the slide was about 3” from being out the whole way out. The slide seal was not against the outside wall. The wife was sorta stiff the next morning. Where in Montana are you located

So the photo above is my hydrant cover. It contains two filters, a water softener and a separate hose connection for a garden hose. Also you see a large black plastic tube leaving the box. It has the waterline and a heat tape installed in it. That large black cover is actually a 6” plastic duct for a home heating system. I normally leave the line connected until steady below 10 degrees temperatures are happening over night. That is your judgement there. I do keep say 2/3 of a tank of fresh water on board. For those times. If it needs refilled, just do that as needed. Once temperatures get cold enough I remove the equipment in the heated box cover. Yes I do keep a heat tape in the box. So the next advise I would suggest is to visit a few campgrounds in the area and look at what other people are doing for the winter time in a rv. They may not be allowed to put up skirting until a certain date. I did use 1 1/2” pink styrofoam board to insulate the underbelly. The first thing I did was to build a frame work out of scrap wood from Home Depot. Most of your pieces of wood are going to be short. So just cut out what you need. In Montana there probably are people that will enclose your rv if needed. The other thing that should be addressed is 12vdc charging capabilities. This is important as your furnace operates on 12vdc. Yes your rv has a converter. You need to be prepared to charge your batteries especially from outside shore power. That shore power could be a problem if it is not available. For any reason. Will your tow vehicle charge the batteries. The other thing that a rver should have is a 10 amp battery charger with them. Just Incase your converter cannot charge your batteries. Just had a customer plugged his rv in after sitting awhile. Batteries were dead. As he plugged his unit it the dead batteries overloaded the charger. It blew the converter fuses. He installed new fuses plugged it in again. Now it will not charge at all. I was talking to him over the phone about said subject. Told him to charge the batteries separately. One battery only had 9.6 volts. He then took then to NAPA and had them tested. He replaced one of them? I stoped the next day and tested the system. The converter will not charge now. He needs to replace the converter. Just thinking, will post more in a day or two. Vern

We have had the heat on up hear for about a week in the am. planning on going away this winter.