$ Spot

This would have me finding another office, unless the focus is on the GVWR anyway. Just sounds wrong for a correction not to be made at the DMV when documentation is in hand. I've been a reader here for just over 2 years, participant for just over 2 weeks, and recognize your state as Texas based on what I've read. Also based on what I've read at a TXDMV pdf along with a sticky here by David-and-Cheryl in the RV Action Items sub-forum, I thought that TX used the GVWR for registration purposes. Your comment here hits home as I'm en route to be a Texan as soon as I get there. If I use the GVWR to register, do I need a Scale Ticket as well? Thanks Spot

Your keeping it small will be less to heat and less to skirt, nice Some that come to mind are... https://casitatraveltrailers.com/ https://outdoorsrvmfg.com/ https://northwoodmfg.com/ http://www.bigfootrv.com/ Good Luck & Happy Trails! Spot

450 pounds two up makes loud too Did the pump activate? You were filling, but was the system calling? Spot

Depending on viewpoint, yes. In an earlier post I said my truck has a 19,500 GCWR and that I used the truck's GVWR to obtain a towing capacity, and this is a self imposed limit providing me a margin to not push the limits. With my truck at 6,500 pounds on the CAT Scale I could also use 19,500-6500 to get a 13,000 pound towing capacity. On the scale it was just me and some tools in the truck, not a true traveling weight but a starting point, and one that provides room to work with. I'll probably not get to the 10,000 pounds of my trucks GVWR but I'll use that number in my calculations to ensure that I don't make a regrettable move. I'll probably not get to the GVWR of the trailer either but I'll use that number as well. When I look at what I could be towing/living in and their weights it is tempting to use a sharper pencil when working the numbers, believe me. But the thought of stopping the entire rig along with the mountain passes have me choose the lessor of the two weights. Not wanting to send our new to RVing friend on a ride that needs warming up to was in my mind when suggesting the use of GCWR & GVWR when crunching the numbers. If a mostly flat tow is all that our friend will do (did say mostly Florida, the future is adjustable 😉) then adjusting the numbers in his/her favor by using the actual CAT Scale weight, with a camping load, will certainly gain them a few pounds advantage. Gotta get to the scale though. 5,228 pounds is what I show based on the OP for a truck weight, then to include our driver & stuff, could very well bring the higher tow capacity they found, keeping in mind the affect of tongue weight on the Cargo Capacity. Playing the numbers will open up other trailer opportunities beyond something called Ultra Light and the like. Lance Campers and the Keystone Cougar apparently make a line of 1/2 ton towables that can be considered. Load the truck & get to the scale Spot

An example of this; Two dealers that sell Northwood Trailers, Apache in Oregon close to the manufacturing location & Mike Jones Motor/RV near Cincinnati Ohio, and a $5K to $8K price difference with the same model trailer. Spot

Nearly 4,000 pounds is quite a range, I'd like to see a Speed Limit sign like that... Speed Limit 60MPH to 100MPH 😄 The link presented here, Ford's Tow Capacity Chart is where I would put my trust, it is as vehicle specific as a chart of this type can be. And that's key, each vehicle has it's own individual capabilities. Towing capacity & cargo capacity are very vehicle specific depending on how that vehicle was optioned including tire size/type, electronic packages, gear ratios, engine type/size, and even the bling will have an affect on your truck's capabilities. As you own a Ford, use the Ford Chart & your truck's specific cargo capacity, your truck's GCVWR, your truck's GVWR, and find your truck's towing capacity. It should be a number, a maximum if you will, and not a range. The range of numbers doesn't appear to be specific to your truck which is exactly what you want. I've done this, others have done this, and when you do you will have no doubt what your truck is capable of. edit: A helpful(?) example is my truck, an F250, on the Ford Towing Guide shows a GCWR of 19,500 pounds along with a 12,900 pound towing capacity. Needing to go further I used my truck's GVWR of 10,000 pounds to reveal a 9,500 pound weight (19,500 GCWR - 10,000 GVWR) that I will focus on in my activities. Could I tow more? Probably. Should I? I choose not to due to the effects that it will have in both the short and long term. (I could wear the cutest little sundress, but as a 60+ year old six foot tall bearded gent, should I?) I've been itching to make that analogy 😀 So what I've done to help with my truck's capability is make a few choices to focus on cargo capacity which would then help with my towing. My choices gave me an F250 with a 3,838 cargo capacity which helps with both the tongue weight of the trailer as well as the cargo that the truck bed inevitably absorbs. So the limits that I've personally placed on my truck's towing capacity fade as I can load the truck instead of the trailer and be within the self imposed guidelines, and I say self imposed only because I've chosen the lower number... 12,900 pounds towing on the chart vs 9,500 pounds towing in my math, for an F250. The 12,900 pound towing capacity that is on the chart reflects an empty truck. On the CAT Scale my truck is about 6,500 pounds when void of all the stuff so the 19,500 GCWR - 6,500 = 13,000 pounds, close enough right? Spot

The reviews that I've come across have been posted by disappointed/dissatisfied consumers so taken has a whole I suppose there's not a lot of happiness there... do satisfied and thrilled consumers post anymore? 😁 What you're looking for in a trailer will be a major player in your satisfaction. Research online goes a long way but nothing beats getting into the trailer to see, fit, feel, & smell what you'll be living in. I've had a "favorites" list be modified too many times to count regarding travel trailers once I was actually in them to see, fit, feel, & smell. There are trailers that I haven't been in yet so they're on the "to see" list, Bigfoot, Northwood, Outdoors RV, & Winnebago. The size range that you're interested in will have an assortment of trailers that can be profitable sellers for the manufacturer so I feel your pain, it is disheartening at times. Seems that when I view trailers I'm already considering the modifications that I'd do, something that I'd appreciate being there already. Then there are other trailers that are just a flagrant foul, far too price point orientated. Spot

Ford's Tow Capacity chart is a good place to start as it does give some values. For your truck, look at the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating to see what it's maximum capacity is by... GCVWR - 7,000 lbs (your truck's rating) = ________. ( The GVWR is the most that your truck is designed to weigh when loaded, same with the trailer). On paper this would be the max a trailer could weigh, the max that you can tow, the GVWR to look for in a trailer. Real world numbers should be no more than 80% of this number though for less stress on you & your truck. When you weigh your truck at a CAT Scale you'll have another number that you can work with as that 1,772 Cargo Cap is affected by you and your load and whatever you happen to have in the cab or box. All necessary items will not be in the TT, your truck bed will absorb some, guaranteed. The trailer will also have a GVWR and a Cargo Cap is why. You may want to add a cover or cap to the truck bed, more weight but rain proof How each is loaded, truck & trailer, is your choice but keep Trailer Tongue Weight in mind when loading the trailer so your ride will be safe & comfortable. This Tongue Weight will become a part of the math involving your truck's Cargo Cap so having an actual weight on your truck from a CAT Scale seems a must. Take 10% to 15% of a trailer's GVWR and apply this to your truck's Cargo Cap. When doing calculations, always use the GVWR of a trailer. It provides a margin of safety if you don't load it to max, which apparently many people do, or more 😲 Some items you'll come across... CCC= Cargo Carrying Capacity, UVW=Unloaded Vehicle Weight (sometimes called Dry Weight), we've already seen GVWR & GCVWR (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating, sometimes listed as GCWR as well), GAWR=Gross Axle Weight Rating (ideally the same or more than the GVWR when the axle's ratings are added to each other, unless it's a single axle trailer whose rating should be equal to or greater than the GVWR, it's the "weakest link in the chain" concept). You'll see these in brochures and websites as part of the Specifications. While we're here, water weighs 8.3 pounds/gallon so examine tank size on trailers for this and for your comfort, as well as traveling style... carry water, if so how much (nice to have some if you find yourself in a pickle). So then... Truck's GCVWR-GVWR=GVWR of trailer at the most, 80% max of this please Payload Capacity of your truck at 1772 is affected by the trailer's tongue weight. Trailer tongue weight should be 10% to 15% of the trailer's total weight. Use the GVWR of a prospective trailer in your calculations, become accustomed to looking at trailer sticker specs. Spot

Good to know... good information here, thanks Spot

a). Very true, I've learned much. b). I agree with you Joe. I agree with you here too. It's the elephant in the room for me. When I view the Thousand Trails locations map & directory on either the Camping Pass website or the Membership website, which totals all TT Parks/Encore Parks/Trails Collection Parks, 1/2 of the country has none of these parks. And the 24 states without Thousand Trails representation offers some very fine locations and camping opportunities. I suppose this is why I still haven't made a commitment yet. I certainly see the financial benefit of TT, depending on use of course, but I could easily spend an entire year in the 24 states that don't have TT representation. As I said yesterday, the only way for me to know for sure whether TT is a good fit is to get a Camping Pass for a year and conduct the experiment to see how it affects my camping. Spot

Another part of your research could involve your insurance company and the rider that may exist regarding your truck, trailer, & roadside assistance. Some here have shared that this does exist with them and that the trailer is included as long as the truck & trailer are attached which is what will be on the roadside. Spot

I've considered this circumstance often, especially when I see it, and bounce back and forth between differing viewpoints. I finally come to rest on the idea of consideration, and how it would effect ones choice of campsite. An inward focus will have one choice while an outward focus will have another. Spot

I agree that the value of something is determined on an individual basis. Based on what I've read here and in another running thread started by Roadtrek, I can see the value of Thousand Trails with both the Pass and the Membership, depending on its use. And since we decide for ourselves, I took the numbers presented by rm.w/aview in a previous post and applied them to myself to determine the value or benefit of using Thousand Trails. An average daily cost with a concise look at that post (with 120 days at RPI) is: year one=$16.26, year two=$11.88, year three=$9.68, year four=$8.59, year five=$8.08... all this assuming a $3200 resale membership purchase and $933 dues as mentioned in that post. This also assumes the use of the TT network solely for campsites. Now if someone would use the network less, these numbers will vary. And there's the rub. When I view the Thousand Trails Locations Map I'm certain I could make good use of the network, and I'm just as certain that I'll be in the out-of-network areas a good portion of the time if not the majority of time depending on the year. The only way that I see to make a fair assessment is to try a Camping Pass when there's a great deal ($) to be had, and try to decide if two Zones would actually be enough. If history is any indication that won't be enough, and I'd like a fair assessment to take place. I would then compare that to the budget without the Thousand Trails network in the picture which means I'll have to pay more attention to that, beyond the glee of having money left at the end of the month. Without this experiment all I have is speculation. Spot

Thanks for the updates, I've been following this thread but didn't catch it early enough to participate. Your satisfaction with the hitch, along with many others, is swaying me toward the Hensley in the future. I've been using the Equalizer with great success but see that hooking up the Hensley can be much easier, especially as my body ages along with the hitch sequence required with each. Each of the hitches require lining up but the Hensley, like a 5er, lets you know that you're there with the bump (don't want to feel that with the Equalizer). Overall it seems much easier to hitch and provides exactly the type of control when towing that someone could want. Spot

I've read where we're to target the trailer's pin weight at 20% to 25% of the 5er's GVWR, and that 10% to 15% of the Travel Trailer's GVWR is optimum tongue weight for safe & comfortable travel. I've also read that a target weight for the trailer should be no more than 80% of the tow vehicle's towing capacity. I've found this info repeated in articles, on websites both company & personal, and in forums. The pattern has me think there's truth in these numbers, and that the further one strays from the "guideline" the less safe & less comfortable the drive becomes. To be at or over maximum weight in any category is nothing to take lightly and may have a negative affect in the event of a traffic accident. I hope some of this is helpful and that our OP has been checking in since the May 27th one and only post. Spot

With the various lifestyles that exist in the RV world, it is easy to see the relationship these comments have. It is this and other first hand experience that can be so beneficial to researchers, thanks. Spot

I've been a reader here for 2 years & a participant for 2 weeks and have seen what you've described here and agree with your view. An opinion based on facts will have more value than one based on emotion, and the anti-TT fervor seems rooted in emotion. Here and elsewhere I'll read valuable information by folks that favor the various discount options like the State Park Pass, TT Camping Pass and/or Membership, Passport America, et cetera, as they share first hand experience or the results of research, and am grateful for their participation. And then at times due to comments I'll shake my head and wonder where the adult went as that thread goes off the rails. Spot

There is no hang up really, it's all still on the table. We have some choices & options to consider before saying "I Do" I now refer back to the OP... With a mixed bag of reviews, comments, & experiences involving RPI & C2C found on the web I posted my question here because the options exist, hoping to gain more insight into each. With nothing more to go on, I'll choose RPI. Regarding the apparent sidebar that came up in the thread involving TT, I do like your earlier mention of the Camping Pass to test, without contract, the fit of it all and get into some parks & the rhythm of using another tool in the bag. Among so many others, you seem happy with TT while using it about 100 nights/year, and as a member if I were to insert TT parks into my pattern in place of the parks used now our nights/year would be more so I believe that I'd be just as happy, but in reality I think the tools (camping sources/locations) would be a nice blend. As I said earlier, we diversify our stays and campsites for the pleasure of it Spot

🤣👍😁

Thanks for this However, our bodies have had the word work removed from our vocabulary. (Now let's see what can be done with pain.) Spot

By drain plug, are you referring to the water heater? Down low on the side of your trailer you should find a valve handle that when pulled will drain your fresh water tank from it's low point. It'll drain straight down so finding the protrusion from your trailer's underbelly could also indicate where to look for the valve handle, or search for the label "Fresh Water". Spot

^ I agree entirely, it's another tool in the bag. And using the tool analogy, it's as if I'm in the tool department at Home Depot with my gaze fixed on a certain tool with wonder (👁️👁️ tools)... is it worth the cost and how much will I use it vs the cost, you know, "getting my money's worth". I can certainly see it's advantage and this is a side note to the reason behind this thread. The RPI option exists with a TT Membership, and a C2C option was presented as well. Another option is the Trails Collection. But it was the two, RPI & C2C, that grabbed my attention due to similarities which then had me wonder if one would be a better choice, though the RPI option is less expensive in the price of admission. Before me lay, through Thousand Trails, RPI Preferred at $119 annual dues, and a comparable C2C at $149 annual dues following the buy in to the park. In viewing each other's maps with locations, I KNOW that I could make good use of this tool added to my bag. (The Trails Collection would come in handy too as it's free camping in 91 of the 109 parks following the current $214 annual dues). I also know that in a short time the cost of admit will be recovered. Currently, we travel in the same way that FL-JOE, MidMOTraveler, and kb0zke have stated. And like them and many others, although we have found ways to be economical while we enjoy life we have studied or are studying on a membership in TT including the various options that are available through them. As I said, I know that I could make use of the park system without seeming confined because of it, our camping/traveling style is just too eclectic. We enjoy the diversity presented by the various geographies regularly. This study, this thread, is only rooted in economics as I seek your valued opinions & case histories Spot

I have to agree Lou! That was money well spent, 7 years as well, nice work. Your story could be on the Northwood Mfg page of Testimonies Spot

A marine (boat) or RV store should have a product to help with a small fiberglass repair job like yours. The filler adheres to the surrounding area because it's compatible with the material which then enables a new hole to be drilled. I've done it plenty of times when adding cleats or lights to fiberglass boats. The RV skin is probably thinner is all. Spot

This is what comes up each time we discuss TT and its worth, and seems a sound way to test the waters, thanks Worth a lot David! Your story mimics ours, although we also started with Passport America, and like yourself are Lifetime Members, thanks The style aspect comes up with us also as we wonder if TT would be a good fit. Our camping/traveling style, like our music, is very eclectic Spot