oldjohnt

FWIW I agree. The later blade style fuses have the element better encased inside plastic versus those old glass units with the metal ends over the fragile glass tube. I believe plugging and unplugging them was their worst abuse. The ones I saw still working fine even if 50+ years old looked like they had NEVER been removed. I'm sure you're still warm down there in Texas. I came back to Indiana too darn early lol still full timing in the RV. Best wishes John T

Yo Darryl, Oldddddddddddddddd Edison looking light bulbs sure are neat. When I attended a Lighting Seminar at GE's NELA Park in Cleveland Ohio I saw some real antique bulbs................ While I didn't restore any antique trucks or tractors that were 116 years old, I saw some maybe half that with working original glass fuses !!!!!!!!!!!!! Gotta love antique electrical stuff (To at least look at lol) Fun chatting with yall John T

EmPeg FYI while there may be similarities, what you call a fuse filament isn't EXACTLY "just like" an incandescent light bulb. The delicate filament used in an incandescent light bulb operating in a vacuum is designed and manufactured to produce light (and heat by default) when current flows through it, while the thin metallic conductor inside a fuse produces no light but is sized with precision and has the proper mechanical, metallurgical and thermodynamic properties so it melts open upon x amps of current flow over x time. In all my years I've never seen a light bulb last typically as long as a glass encased fuse (years and years) PROVIDED THAT the fuse isn't operated at its rating for too long too often. SURE they can degrade but not so much due to age versus too many amps too long...............HOWEVER I agree with you it may be called "just like" in that too much current too long too often might mechanically/physically stress it to the point it eventually fails, as would a light bulb due in part to the initial inrush current and its temperature changing resistance properties ............ Regardless of the reason your old one was blown or how old it was, if that new one is working fine and continues to do so for some time, your heating element and other electronics is likely okay YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY Good luck and best wishes John T

EXACTLY I've experienced that several times over the years. Even if to the eye they appear complete a continuity check or an ohm meter can still show an open circuit. I used to restore antique cars and tractors and saw a ton of those old glass fuses that were well over 30 years old all ratty lookin STILL WORKING FINE as mere age alone didn't degrade them. As long as they remain sealed against the elements and aren't stressed from over current they can last years and years, and that's more then I can say for some circuit breakers I encountered !!! Take care yall John T

"Hopefully the 5A fuse just reached it's end of life!" Darn good chance it sounds like, especially considering its age lol John T

"I assure you that a blown fuse does not always mean there is a problem" EXACTLY they are manufactured relatively cheap and may still open/blow if there's NO problem with the device, as well as open/blow if excess current due to a device problem or a short or excess initial inrush current causes such. Hey what can a person expect from such a cheap piece of *&^%$ Despite that, in motor control circuits and many industrial applications a good old fashion fuse is still quite reliable as compared to a mechanical circuit breaker with its springs, arms and cam action and all that other "stuff" lol Yall take care John T

EmPeg, CONGRATULATIONS thanks for the feedback...........Hopefully there's still no lingering problem (heating element perhaps) that caused the fuse to blow in the first place ????????????????? Best wishes John T

As a 47 consecutive year RV user and past dealer, I came across bad/open 120 VAC heating elements that caused the problem you're experiencing. That's easy to check using an ohm meter. It may well also be what Kirk mentioned, no 120 VAC power TO the fridge or a blown fuse or some other simple problem. You gotta have 120 VAC power TO the fridge (check wiring and 120 VAC distribution panel and circuit breakers etc) ,,,,,,,,,,,Then a good closed fuse for the 120 VAC circuit,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Then a good continuous heating element. PS You stated "the fridge switched to LP and won't go to electric" If the automatic switch over sensing circuit DOES NOT SEE the presence of 120 VAC, it will choose LP gas. Since that's the case, I would FIRST suspect there's no 120 VAC available over the other possible problem I spoke of above (heating element is bad) orrrrrrrrrrrrr the small fuse is blown. EITHER can cause it to cool on LP Gas but NOT on 120 VAC. A simple volt meter or a test light or an 120 VAC device plugged into the fridge outlet (if so wired) to see if voltage is present is the first thing to look at. If NOT look at the 120 VAC distribution panel (tripped breaker). Even if there's power to the outlet, however, the fuse still needs to be good !!!!! Let us know what you find These manuals may help https://www.manualslib.com/products/Norcold-N611-2649946.html http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Norcold-Service-N61x-N81x John T

Dutch good idea, I carry one also and as I best recall its a Dinosaur as you mentioned universal to fit some furnaces and water heaters but NOT my fridge which has a separate ignitor and an entirely different control board. I carry an extra ignitor module for it. Good insurance since if you spend the money and carry one with you the originals seldom go bad LOL As an old Boy Scout I usually carry a spare belt often spare radiator hoses and on some RV's that used an ignition module (and coil) I carry one of those, plus the usual spare tire and tire plugs and air compressor etc etc etc AND MY EMERGENCY ROAD SERVICE CARD and a ton of other assorted spare parts and tools.............. John T

Here's what we use when dry camping, it requires NO electricity, NO Generator running, NO Battery and Inverter use, WORKS GREAT https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000015167-Camping-Coffeemaker/dp/B001K7IDVU/ref=sr_1_1/141-9155492-5732724?ie=UTF8&qid=1521643357&sr=8-1&keywords=coleman+camping+coffee+maker John T

Al, in line with your post, in cases where all the voltages and connections AT THE BOARD are fine (and any safety limits or thermals or T Stat or fuses etc are all okay) but there's still failure to ignite, I have the wife turn it on while I'm outside at the heater. I hope/expect to hear and feel the gas valve open and on some models see ?? or hear the Ignitor Tip fire the snap snap snap HV arcing sound it makes. If I cant hear the snap snap snap or possibly see ?? the arcing, I remove the HV ignitor tip assembly cable (ifffffffffffff heater model is such type and allows ????) on the board and replace it with a jumper wire to within 1/8 inch from metal, turn it on and look for the small firing arcs to see if the board and its HV coil/transformer is operating. If there's no gas valve opening nor any HV arcing and the board is receiving full voltage, then I suspect the board. However if the HV coil/transformer is producing a spark (via the rigged jumper) and the gas valve is opening, then I suspect a bad HV ignitor tip assembly (hairline crack or carbon trace or bad connection or ground or improper location or its HV cable is bad) or it may just need relocated. And there's also the other problem you described where it lights but then goes out grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. If it senses no flame (or that board function isn't working correct) it shuts down for safety. DISCLAIMER NOTE: I cant say for sure any of this applies to HIS HEATER (I didn't take time to look at his manual) but FWIW it has on several models I've owned, take it as pure GENERIC suggestions. INDEED check all connections including grounds and for a resistive switch HE NEEDS GOOD VOLTAGE AT THE BOARD. Sure the board may be bad, but I try the simple easy CHEAPER fixes first lol Fun chatting with yall, hope were helping?? John T

LC, I was once on the phone with Dinosaur Electronics (who manufactures replacement circuit boards) troubleshooting a similar problem. They insisted I use a quality voltmeter to measure voltage to the board AS LOW VOLTAGE can cause problems. I was advised to remove the flat ribbon cable connector and use a lead pencil eraser to gently polish and clean up the contact strips on the circuit board as resistance and voltage drop there can cause problems. When cleaning sensitive electrical connections and components I do not like to use anything that may leave fine residue/particles. As I best recall it was Dinosaur who first suggested a pencil eraser and I also like electrical contact spray cleaner with a good clean up afterwards. You have to first confirm sufficient voltage TO THE BOARD (via switch and connections or other limits) and if that's present and its NOT a low voltage or connection problem, then I might suspect the board. I have also observed circuit boards that exhibited intermittent problems when moved or plugged and unplugged etc HAD A LOOSE FAULTY COLD SOLDER JOINT which was easily cured using a small soldering iron. NOTE one thing to remember when making voltage checks is that if there's a bad/loose/burned/resistive connection there's NO I x R voltage drop across it until current flows through it. Check connections and voltages and look for easy simple fixes (bad resistive switch contacts, ribbon cable connection, other limits) FIRST before investing in circuit boards etc. John T

Gee Yarome, "that's not how you do it" LOL LOL Just kidding I have to agree with your good advice, those relatively cheaper batteries labeled RV/Marine or those that talk about CCA and never Amp Hours, are often semi and NOT true Deep Cycle like a golf cart battery which are described in Amp Hours moreso then CCA. Their purpose is to have sufficient CCA to crank a big marine engine and then run the trolling motor a good period. Dan, That being said in my younger or broke days (prior to extended dry camping) I ran plenty of those RV/Marine batteries and got by fine, so once installed I wouldn't bother to upgrade until such time they totally failed (may be a long time if kept charged up and not discharged over 50% often) orrrrrrrrrr you upgrade and plan on a lot of extended dry camping. That's my story n Ima stickin to it John T

I found That's the same thing I found (NOT saying there aren't some out there) which is why for ease and availability and price and possibly less shading concerns subject to roof real estate and possibly less heat problems and less weight per panel, if I had to have 400 watts Id at least consider using TWO 200 Watt probably 24 volt probably wired in parallel Panels. They are so readily available at less then a dollar per watt. I'm running three of the 24 volt 235's in parallel now on my small 29 foot Class C and have room for even one more. Study your roof layout shop around and do your homework and I'm sure you will do fine John T

Kevin, good questions I pretty much agree with Dave's good response, here's my own take: 1) A 400 watt SINGLE panel would be one fairly big unit. My 245 Watt panels are 39 x 64. If you cant find a single 400 watt panel to suit your needs and fit your roof ???? you may be left with the use of MULTIPLE PANELS like it or not. 2) A SINGLE panel (if you can get a single 400 watt that fits on your roof) means less wiring connections and less mounting problems. 3) Multiple panels wired in parallel may (subject to location) reduce some shading problems.. 4) Without any idea of your available roof space and what if any roof restrictions you may have (AC units and vents etc etc) the use of a couple say 200 + Watt 24 Volt panels wired in parallel may be an easy straight forward approach versus a single huge panel. I CANT SAY WITHOUT KNOWING YOUR ROOF. 5) I would shop around to see if you can get a single 400 watt that will fit correctly ???? but if not consider two 200+ watt units which Id prefer versus say FOUR 100 watt units JUST TOO MANY WIRES AND CONNECTIONS. EITHER WAY WILL WORK Id say the answer depends on your roof space John T Long retired electrical engineer and NOT a solar expert so do as they say not me

I think I shared this earlier, but once I was on the phone with Dinosaur Electronics who manufacture replacement circuit boards and when troubleshooting an ignition problem I was asked to verify voltage at the boards input when the technician lectured me on now I needed to be using a quality DC voltmeter as an accurate reading was necessary and a few tenths too low could make a difference. I cant say from here what your problem was but Dinosaur insisted low voltage at the board could be problematic. Thanks for the feedback, congratulations on getting it working..........Now if it fails again we will start all over lol John T Moochdocking at relatives still in Indiana, starting for Texas tomorrow

Mntom, It will mostly be in Austin where our daughter lives. Where will you be ??? John T

Rocky, I had already ordered one it arrives Friday..............NO ELECTRICITY, The wife thinks its easier then our old campfire percolator and she likes how it works same as our household unit (add coffee and water and set it on stove) and besides it will add a bit of heat to help take the chill off in the mornings. After reading the great responses above I arrived at the same conclusion here and the reviews that 12 volt units are slowwww and suck up a lot of battery power............ THANKS TO EVERYONE John T (Currently still in Indiana but headed to Texas)

THANKS ALL those were a few options I wasn't aware of. The big 10 cup home coffee maker works off my 3 KW PSW Inverter but after running my extra 120 VAC fridge 24/7 and the CPAP and some furnace use at night I'm just looking for energy saving where possible in the AM till the sun shines. John T

Can anyone recommend a good 12 Volt say 3 or 4 cup Coffee Maker for dry camping use?? I've been using my big household maker ran off my Inverter (or at times the Generator) and sure, it works, but figure a smaller 12 Volt powered unit might be more efficient. I've read some BAD reviews but those may be from people who didn't run a good heavy hard wired 30 amp circuit to the coffee maker like I would. I sometimes use my old camp fire percolator over the stove but the wife says its too much trouble lol John T Currently "homeless" (if RV living don't count lol) having sold our home and farm after 39 years

Its sounding like EITHER the board is bad OR ELSE there's still a weak resistive voltage dropping connection (or ground) allowing low power board components or indicator lights to work but NOT enough voltage and current to operate the gas valve and/or HV ignitor coil. This assumes the switch and t stat and limit switches are all good with no bad connections and good 12 volt source voltage Id check to see if the gas valve operates if you manually temporarily jump 12 volts to it??? If so but not via the normal board function I'm back to the above. John T Thanks Kirk, we DO have emotional ties to the homeplace where we raised our family, but its too late now, we closed this morning !! Still hope to meet up someday. John T

Thanks coachmac, Closing is in two hours, hope I don't break down lol. We bought the farm in 78 and built the new home in 79, it was our dream and we raised our family here, gonna be tough to walk out the door, but we don't need all the acreage and huge home and upkeep anymore. The time has come, its part of the cycle of life. We have "half timed" for 10 years now full time till we buy our "last" home, before assisted living or nursing home or the cemetery............. Best wishes John T Its important to know if the "clunk" was the gas valve opening???????????? You ought to be able to feel it !!!!!!! Same (clunk) sound if you jumped 12 volts to the gas valve ????? and you would smell some gas ............If it did open but no HV sparky, then its time to check the boards HV coil to see if its causing a spark if a temporary jumper wire to 1/8" to metal gap is attached. That checks for spark at the boards HV coil itself independent from any HV cable or Ignitor tip or grounding problems. If the HV coil is okay then you check for problems in the HV cable and the ignitor tip and grounds and gaps etc as I described above. Once more, if there's adequate voltage (under load) at the board input but no sounds or gas valve opening nor sparky, I suspect a grounding or board (bad solder joint or strip ???) or still possibly a resistive connection problem. NOTE if the gas valve opens and holds open (requires adequate voltage and current), then voltage and power to the board itself and its ground must be okay which can rule out "some" of the related issues above. John T

At least twice a year I clean and blow out the heat exchange tube and all the gas inlet and air piping (similar in the fridge n furnace). I ALWAYS get some rust n soot. BEFORE however I close off where the LP Gas flows so the rust n soot cant get in. Preventive maintenance is so necessary in those darn RV's and even top of the line units are just as vulnerable. John T ONLY a few more days till we turn over keys to the farm and were OUTA HERE................RV is stuffed to the gills

GREAT Info from Kirk, looks like he and I and the manual are ALL on the same page. To simplify and summarize, If there's adequate voltage getting TO the board VIA the switch and t stat and limit switches and the ribbon edge connector (no resistive connections),,,,,,,,,,,,The gas valve should open (easy to feel and/or hear it, test by jumping 12 volts to it and/or check its continuity),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,The boards HV coil should begin throwing its spark (try a jumper to verify its producing high voltage),,,,,,,,,,,,,,The HV cable should carry voltage to the Ignitor Tip (check cable and ceramic and tip for hairline cracks or carbon traces and insure a good ground) and it should spark to ignite the gas. IF there's adequate board voltage (via switch and t stat and limtts) then you have to see if no fire is the result of 1) The gas valve isn't opening or 2) The Ignitor Tip isnt firing to ignite the gas or 3) NEITHER is working IF NEITHER the gas valve is opening ORRRRRRRRRRRR the boards HV coil itself (IE independent from any HV cable or ignitor tip issues) isn't producing HV to jump a spark and there's adequate board voltage THE BOARD COULD BE BAD. NOTE One problem in testing voltages at certain locations when you're looking for bad/loose/resistive connections, is there's NO I x R Voltage Drop UNLESS CURRENT IS FLOWING (IE a load is present). You may want to just check and verify the connections and grounds and clean up and polish and re attach. NOTE The no fire indicator lamp doesn't take as much current as the rest of the control board, there could still be a bad/resistive connection. NOTE If the boards HV coil is producing HV for the spark and the cable is good Ive still had the ceramic ignitor tips fail EVEN IF THEY LOOK GOOD TO THE EYE. NOTE Ive had units fail to light because the ignitor tips gap distance was too small or large HOWEVER if you're not getting EITHER gas valve OR HV sparking, then its a low voltage or connections or grounds or t stat or limits or finally yes even a bad board LET US KNOW WHAT YOU FIND GO BY THE MANUAL VERSUS MY SUGGESTIONS IF THERES A DIFFERENCE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm NOT there and ONLY speaking in general from experience with boards you can get to and perform the tests above................. Best wishes, keep safe and God Bless John T

coachmac, as typical Kirk and I agree as I also view it since the red light comes on, power IS GETTING TO THE BOARD (could still be a resistive connection however). YES its powered by 12 VDC not 120 VAC The patch is the Switch is turned ON,,,,,,,,,,,Then power gets to the board via a closed thermostat and any other limit and over heat thermal protection device,,,,,,,,,,,Then if alls well the gas solenoid valves opens (you can BOTH feel and hear its click),,,,,,,,,,,,,,Then the HV Ignitor coil on the board should start firing producing a snap snap snap sound when the ceramic encased Ignitor Tip throws a spark that's visible if you look near where gas flows out the tube. HOWEVER, if the gas valve isn't opening and the HV coil gonna isn't sparking and there's good voltage (cant be too low) to the board via the t stat and limit switches, the circuit board could be bad ???? Just for the heck of it I would remove the flat ribbon board edge connector (sure even though the light is coming on) and gently clean buff polish the flat copper looking strips on the board and re attach.............Then watch and listen carefully (I lay my hand on the gas solenoid valve to feel if it energizes) when someone turns the heater ON................ A) If the gas valve opens but she don't light, then I move on to troubleshoot if the boards HV coil is producing the HV (remove the HV cable on the coil and replace with a jumper wire off its output terminal to 1/4" to metal) and if so, then I move on to the ceramic ignitor tip (check for hairline cracks or carbon traces and its gap) to see if its sparking, but the HV CABLE from the coil to the ceramic ignitor tip could be bad ??? The last ceramic ignitor tip I bought came with the HV cable and tip as a unit. If the gas valve never even opens and if there's good full voltage to the board via the t stat and limit switches, I suspect the gas valve,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, or its wiring or ground connection is bad,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, or else the circuit board is bad............... You might have all else off and jump 12 volts direct to the gas valve and see if it opens????? You can also unhook and check for continuity thru its coil. If it opens when jumped manually that rules out a bad valve, so it must not be getting its power via the circuit boards proper functioning. If you just keep in mind power gets to the board via the switch and t stat and limit switches,,, and then the gas valve has to open and the HV coil and ignitor tip work to produce the snap snap snap spark you may find the problem I would also check all those metal ground connections and like the post above the tip assembly for a good ground (if the valve opens but no sparky) NOTE if you hear NOTHING (no gas valve opening and no HV firing) and the switch is on and there's sufficient voltage to and through the t stat and safety limits and the board is well connected (IE NO connector resistance) and there's adequate voltage right there on the boards INPUT and all the grounds are good n tight COULD BE A BAD BOARD but over the years its more often been something else ???? Sure you need gas to the unit but still the valve should open and the ignitor start firing DUH..........Id be checking the t stat and any high temp safety cutouts for closure and good low resistances. Go by the manual not us lol Keep us posted what you find. PS this troubleshooting ONLY works if it has a heater with a board and HV coil and HV cable and ignitor tip etc you can get to !!!! John T