Jaydrvr

1 hour ago, TB673 said:

Just as a follow-up, after contacting Roadmaster as to parts availability and or support for the Comfort Ride 5th wheel hitch line-up, here is their reply:

        Tim, my apologies. That is a discontinued product, and no replacement parts are available.

Short and sweet.

Jay thanks for the heads up. Are you going to a more common hitch?

Tim

No, we've sold our Newmar fifth wheel and no longer need it. It's been a great hitch for us. Jay

4 hours ago, jenandjon said:

My question is What happens if you pull into the state and they find that you don't pass? Do they turn you around and say get lost or do they fine you and make you get it towed to the state line? 

Since the beginning of emissions testing, in my experience, there's just a fine. Typically, you're often given a period of time to correct it in order to reduce significantly the total fine amount. This is mostly based on experience traveling through NJ, plus following industry news sources. Of course, CA has its own way of doing things. Jay

My Comfort Ride is now listed in the classified section. Jay

Does the SOC meter need to be re-zeroed? I'm not familiar with the Magnum, but my Xantrex requires zeroing out occasionally, due to minute system inaccuracies. Check your manual to see if that's the case. On my Xantrex Link Pro, you hold down the left-right arrows down for a few seconds to zero it out to full. Jay

43 minutes ago, rbertalotto said:

Do you know if there is an actusl difference in hubs and bearings? Are there special bearings and hubs specifically for oil? 

I've never heard of such a thing. New wheel seal, new cap, you're good. Just don't use a Stemco. You don't even necessarily need to remove the grease. Jay

Have you physically tested the input of the inverter under load? Sounds like low voltage cutoff, but perhaps your remote readings aren't reflecting what's going on.  Jay

I have a recently new Comfort Ride 308 fifth wheel that'll be available once the fifth wheel is gone. It's like this one.. https://www.ptrailerusa.com/categories/specialized-towing/5th-wheel/24k-5th-wheel-hitches.html , but it's the heaviest duty one they make. It's on excellent condition and I can include my custom Jackalopee setup as well, if desired. Jay

I expect to have a 308 available soon. If so, I'll post in the classifieds. Jay

If you have an HDT, it's important to place your transponder near the bottom of the windshield, or your visor may block it. I have colleagues who've been charged large amounts by NY for misreads. If you don't have a visor, no problem. Also, you no longer need a Sunpass for FL, your EZPass will now work there as well. A transponder will make your life dramatically easier if you visit NYC, Chicago, or the Northeast. There are virtually no cash booths there anymore. Chicago in particular, puts the onus on the driver to blindly figure out how much they owe for each toll gate and voluntarily submit it. Jay

1 hour ago, Parrformance said:

Finally got around to changing out the worthless Stemco hub caps, I see why you like the SKF hub caps.  I’m sold, thanks for the tip Jaydrvr😁

I'm glad it worked out for you and you're enjoying freedom from those miserable Stemcos... 😊 Jay

3 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Thanks Jay. I mainly carried the service not just for towing but services like tires, etc. Don’t think it’s worth it. 

I don't have that experience, but I'm guessing it's not that valuable for only 15,000 miles a year. For 150,000 miles a year, sure!! Jay

6 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

That’s probably what I’m leaning towards. Wonder what owner/operator truckers do?  

I've been an owner/operator for thirty years. I don't know of any road service plan for commercial use that is readily available. I just minimize the need for a tow and when it happened - once - I paid out of pocket. Jay

P.S. Actually, I forgot. There was another tow a loooong time ago, I think 1992.

1 hour ago, Chalkie said:

I do wonder though what it is about the human nature that we seem to gloat over others misfortunes?

Isn't that the truth... Odd.. Jay

3 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

I'm sure he knew, but the news medial did not pay attention to detail, which is the whole point of my reply. The story was reported with as much sensationalism as possible and facts were omitted or disguised.

It's been a long time since the media paid any attention to facts and details. Jay

10 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

OK, after reading that news report, which is not an accurate rendition of the city ordnance or law; proof of that is where it says he drives 70 hrs a day.; they say "commercial' trucks and RV's over those weights may not be parked in front of a house. Evidently parking beside or behind the house is approved.

Much ado about nothing for RVers IMO.

I imagine he meant 70 hours a week. That tracks with logbook regs. Jay

I don't think you could pile enough snow on a Volvo hood to actually damage it, but that's just my take. My Volvo hood is 24 years old, and nothing so far has put a dent in it, other than an exploding steer tire. Jay

Is this it?

https://youtu.be/_ItPxPOZs08

https://www.hhrvresource.com/

I agree with Chad that it's unnecessary to volunteer the details about your HDT. As far as anyone needs to know, you still actually have a dually. I would continue to just go with that. Jay

I have "dry camped" in my truck while working for many years when I lived and worked in the cold, frozen tundra of the Midwest. Many drivers just idled their engines for warmth, but I rarely did that. I was completely comfortable sleeping in temps as low as zero or beyond by using a bunk warmer or electric blanket. It was a bit brisk when one had to get up, though. Jay

16 hours ago, Randyretired said:

I bought a mini split that I run off of solar. For that reason I wanted one that is very efficient. SEER is a measure of how efficient an AC is. The higher the SEER the more efficient the unit is for cooling. Mine is a 21.5 SEER. That is higher than average for mini splits but if I was to do it again there are more efficient mini splits available. Ours is 12,000 BTU. Signature Solar has a 12,000 BTU mini split that has a SEER of 30. You can Google SEER to see how much more efficient that is. For our 40' Teton the 12,000 BTU mini split cools better than one of our 15,000 BTU RV AC's but not as good as both. The one 12,000 BTU mini split keeps us cool into the lower 90's. If you need more cooling there are larger mini splits and some even run 2 mini splits. Once the BTU's are greater than 12,000 the efficiency seems to fade noticeably but I haven't been shopping lately so there may be some better units. If you will be heating with the mini split there are ratings for that to. I think it is HPSF? or something like that. There are units that will work below -0. Some of the other advantages of mini splits is the nearly silent operation. Most units will have a rating for that. I should add that if you will be on the grid the higher efficiency (SEER) units are not necessary. Hope this helps.

 

 

 

I did this on my phone, sorry for the dead space. I don't know what I did to cause this nor do I know how to fix it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You should be able to place your "cursor" at the bottom of your entry and then use the back button to remove the blank space. Jay

2 hours ago, mike5511 said:

Since my gauges all work, I'm thinking of just adding the volt gauge, which it lacks, and maybe by a scan tool that will read any codes should I need to. This truck also has the Road Relay which works. Basically just a trip/leg meter, but does give your oil pressure and temp. 

Sounds good. Here is a link to the ScanGauge KR, if you decide to use it. They ScanGauge will give you fault codes, which I think is already worth the price of admission. Jay

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwjJpKOzotn7AhVOyYYKHTq1DlkYABAHGgJ2dQ&sig=AOD64_0VH79VtgdrfIfmWQS96gkW_FMv2w&ctype=5&ved=2ahUKEwiN-pqzotn7AhWuSjABHeYcCWQQwg8oAHoECAwQBg&adurl=

11 minutes ago, mike5511 said:

The place I sent it off to replaced light bulbs and did some re-soldering. The back light illuminates, but the panel is dead.

I would also check the wiring harness behind the display. The contacts can get weak and sloppy with time. Can you swap it with a known good one to check the harness? Jay

A ScanGauge KR will effectively give you much of the information normally found in the driver's information display. There are also tablet/software solutions, but the name escapes me at the moment. Jay

1 hour ago, Dutch_12078 said:

Thanks, Jay. That's what I would have expected, but not being in the situation, I've never looked into it.

You're welcome. I'm been self employed most of my life, so I'm accustomed to paying for my own insurance. I delayed taking full Social Security until age 70 to maximize my monthly check,  but of course I took Medicare as soon as I could.  Jay