I haven't logged out in years. It's not a secure site, so it never occurred to me. Maybe there's a good reason to?? Jay

Have you tried a different browser? Jay

https://a.co/d/81pil79

Like new, used a couple of times. Retiring and no longer need. Free shipping included. Jay

jbeachy at gmail dot com

I don't think they have seals, per se, but they get weak over time and start leaking. They're replaceable for not much money. Jay

23 minutes ago, richardbetsey said:

The link is broken

Works for me.

SOLD

https://www.google.com/url?esrc=s&q=&rct=j&sa=U&url=https://ww2.arb.ca.gov/homepage&ved=2ahUKEwif9o2FzoWDAxWeSDABHS9wBuAQFnoECAcQAg&usg=AOvVaw3IUl3kUae_2tJkH7UeMnDk

It's difficult to find a definitive answer to this, but last I heard they're only actively tracking commercial vehicles for exhaust emissions. Scuttlebutt suggests they're planning to do so in the future, but again I've heard nothing definitive. Jay

Elkhart, IN has a variety of shippers that move the units around the country. If you contact them, you should be able to find someone to help. Jay

5 minutes ago, usbusin said:

Is it $75,000 or $85,000 for truck and trailer?  One says $75,000? 

The original price was $85,000, since reduced to $75,000. It's listed in a lot of places and it's hard to update them all. Currently, just the trailer is available and it's a commercial trailer. Jay

On 11/28/2023 at 2:46 PM, lappir said:

 

$85,000 is for truck and the commercial trailer, not just the truck. Jay

On 11/29/2023 at 9:02 AM, palmeris said:

 from the add....

1999 Volvo vnl 610

$45,000

Listed a day ago in Newberry, FL

Message

 

Save

 

 

About This Vehicle

 

 

Exterior color: Gold · Interior color: Black

Fuel type: Diesel

2 owners

 

Seller's Description

1999 Volvo VNL610, 2013 Tarasport 50’ stepdeck, dual purpose commercial and/or recreational, with extensive restorations, turnkey and ready to work or play. $75,000 for truck and trailer. 1999 Volvo VNL610, pre-ELD, N-14 dual torque 370/430, Super 10, fully setup for both commercial use or to pull a fifth wheel RV. I’m the second owner of this truck, purchased in Apr. 2004. This was originally a Watkins truck, ordered by them to pull doubles, with factory 23k single drive. Gearing yields 63 mph at 1600 rpm. The ECM is unrestricted and will run as fast as you are brave. I’m not that brave. I generally get 7-8 mpg loaded and 9.5-10 mpg empty. Upgrades include a Honda EV-4010 RV generator in a custom enclosure, a 525 a/h hotel load battery bank from Fullriver in a custom in-frame enclosure, a 3000 watt plus a 2000 watt Xantrex inverter set, wired with 4-0 marine grade custom connections. Also, a 10 amp NOCO battery maintainer for the starter

Thank you for that. It's in multiple places, but linked to Facebook. I understand some don't do that. Contact me for further info at jbeachy at gmail dot com. Thanks

P.S. It's 63 mph at 1500 rpm, not 1600.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2654124584752060/?mibextid=9R9pXO

If doesn't matter. I think the spec is to have 50% coverage minimum of the tape. I think so.... I didn't look it up and my memory isn't what it once was.. Jay

If you already have a driver's license from another state, you don't need a vehicle. You just walk in to the DMV, present your current driver's license, take your eye test and walk out with your new FL driver's license. You will need to be physically be present.  Jay

32 minutes ago, Payroll Person said:

Consider upgrading the wires too. Likely sized bare minimum. Will spin the starter easier and charge easier. 

Just change out the starter to a gear reduction for the same results, at least for starting. Less amperage, faster starter spin, much less weight to install. Jay

Based on app. 2200 miles from Leavenworth, WA to MI, I would expect to pay at least $5000 to transport this equipment. Depending on the market, it could go much higher. I have the licensing, but my company doesn't have insurance coverage for that. Jay

When the truck is running, the voltage should be at least 13.2, or higher. You should be able to run diagnostics in your driver information display by using the buttons on your wiper stalk. Jay

The location and description of your rig would be helpful. Jay

Also, it helps to use reverse to break them loose, at least in my experience. Gentle rocking is better than being really aggressive. Another good reason to exercise your truck regularly. Jay

As a point of reference, my '99 Volvo has always had a 135 amp alternator, which I also use to charge my 525 a/h agm battery bank, in addition to my starting batteries. I think in the last 19 years, I've replaced it maybe (?) 3 times.. Maybe 4??? I'm completely satisfied with that kind of life and I never felt the need to get a larger alternator. Jay

The newer generators have CO sensors that will shut the unit down. In an enclosed area, the sensor will do what it was designed to do and shut the generator down. CO is heavier than air, but underneath your living space is a dangerous and potentially deadly setup. Something else to consider. Jay

27 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

   Since I just noticed these chargers, I need to do some research about them...

 

    years ago I was working on a Monaco coach and it needed a alternator on the engine replaced.

    So I called Wilson alternator rebuilders.   I was talking to the tech at there facility.

   He said what is this on.   It has a higher voltage rating than HDT do. I said it is on a motorhome. He stated that since it is going through a battery isolator, the voltage needs to be higher than normal to charge the batteries to where they need to be.  As the isolator restricts the voltage some.

  If I remember correctly the voltage output on that alternator was at15.1 vdc at it’s highest rating.

   I also think the alternator had a sense wire on the batteries to control the proper output voltage that was needed.

 

   Now that has been probably 8 years ago, since I did that job.

The higher voltage would only be needed if it's going through an old style diode isolator. If it's a relay style, that passes the full voltage through.

Every alternator I've replaced in the last few years has the sense wire. If you have a shop do the alternator, you med to check behind them to make sure it's properly connected. I have yet to see a shop mechanic who understood the concept. Jay

6 hours ago, craigjanelle said:

My concern with the DC-DC is the stress on my stock alternator. I was reading up on the DC-DC chargers for our 12 volt mini-split in our Volvo. Seemed like many were talking upgrading to a higher power alternator so as no to fry the original. The DC-DC sounded like my answer until that came up. I had an extra inv/charger that I ended up using with a small genny & 225ah of AGM's. Interested & following. Safe Travels.

This is why it's important to size the DC to DC to stay well within the parameters of your alternator. It depends on your mission. If you just need to maintain and maybe add a bit, I think the 20 amp would do fine and not tax your alternator. If you need to step it up significantly, you might want to consider a large alternator. You don't want a lithium bank to overload your alternator, hence the DC to DC charger. Jay

I can provide feedback on the FL location. I advertised our fiver on this forum and other online places. After several months, we contacted PPL and were connected with a very nice lady in TX, who said she'd make sure the FL location would take care of us immediately. We couldn't contact the FL location directly. We tried for two plus weeks and made several calls to the 800 number. We never did hear from PPL FL and by that time, I would've never given them my business. We were eventually able to sell it ourselves to an incredibly nice couple. We put that potential commission in our pockets. You may have a different experience. Jay