sushidog

There's new battery technology on the horizon. It's being rushed to market with big bucks behind it so it should be commercially available within the next 3-4 years. It's solid state batteries. They are safer because the electrolyte is not liquid, but glass. This means they won't catch on fire, as there's nothing to bur. It can be charged much faster (no dendrites) and works over a wider temperature range (from -4 to 140 degrees F.) It is brought to you by the guy who invented the lithium ion battery and random access computer memory. It's so good that the inventor, John B. Goodenough, just won the 2019 nobel prize for its design. It's supposed to last twice as long as current lithiums, is cheaper and easier to manufacture, uses cheaper, readily available, earth-safe sodium rather than expensive, toxic lithium, and I've saved the best part for last. Their energy density is off the charts - between 2.2 and 5 times that of the best lifepo4 batteries currently available. You can skip about the first 4 minutes of the video, as this is where the good stuff starts. Chip

LED efficiency is usually determined by the "generation" of LED, or the technology used in manufacture, and by the color temperature of the light produced. A LED that emits a warmer (lower kelvin) or yellower light has a lower efficiency than one emitting a bluer (higher kelvin) light. Older generation LEDs typically produce about 45-55 lumens/watt depending on color temperature. My headlights use one of the newer high efficiency 4w Philips bulbs which produces 167 lumens/watt. Philips now produces LEDs which emit over 200 lumens/watt. Yet I have some of the most efficient LED emitters I have seen in my reading light swivel sockets at 300 lumens/watt. They even have one on a meter in their ad proving the output for the sceptic. The maximum theoretical limit for a 100% efficient emitter is 680 lumens/watt, so there's still lots of room for improvement in LED development. The most efficient fluorescents go up to around 65-70 lumens/watt, but these are industrial bulbs designed for warehouses with an uncomfortably high color temp and a very bluish tint operating off of high line voltage with less ballast heat loss. Your typical warmer, home use fluorescents make around 35-45 lumens/watt. For comparison a typical incandescent bulb only produces 9-13 lumens/watt, maxing out at 17 lumens/watt. Halogen bulbs (which are basically tungsten incandescent bulbs which use a low-pressure halogen gas to allow evaporated tungsten metal to be redeposited back onto the filament) emit up to 24 lumens/watt. The advantage of a halogen (and a normal incandescent) bulb over fluorescent and LED lighting is it produces light with a perfect 100 CRI (Color Rendering Index). Tungsten incandescent lighting emits a full, continuous spectrum light that renders all colors exactly as sunlight does, which is one of the reasons it was used for so many years despite its relatively low efficiency. This gives it a niche market in the film industry and in certain scientific applications where perfect color rendition greatly outweighs its lack of efficiency - just not for general, everyday use. Now you know more facts (not opinions or preferences) about various kinds of lighting than I'm sure you wanted to. Chip

When I first bought my used MH, a 1999 model it still had the old sealed beam type bulbs. They produced so little light for my aging eyes that I would over drive my headlights, often missing turns, running over items in the road that should have been avoided and such, making it unsafe unless I slowed to a crawl at night, which is in itself unsafe. I looked on the internet and found these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G31B13L/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1 They have good color temperature (a little blue but not too bad - more white than blue) and an 80,000 hr life so for about $20 each, (I needed 4) they are super affordable too. BTW they make better ones but at a much higher price. And the amount of light produced is incredible for a DOT approved light (important if you don't want a ticket, as non DOT lights and light bars are for off road use only.) On low beam, only the lower row and one middle emitter on 2 of the 4 lights light up to avoid blinding oncoming traffic and keep them legal. But because they use the new high-efficiency Phillips 4 watt LEDs (most use 3 watt emitters) that's still 8,000 lumens)! For comparison my old sealed beam bulbs produced about 800 lumens each or 1,600 lumens for a pair. That means that the new LED headlights are 5 times brighter than the old ones, yet only draw 1/2 the power. On high beam, they are the brightest headlights I've ever seen - much brighter than even HID bulbs at an incredible 26,000 lumens for all 4. As a boondocker, I replaced all my internal lights with LEDs as well. I learned right away that there is a huge difference between the quality of LEDs. The cheap ones using a multitude of cheap, low output LED emitters are basically junk. Some are bad out the box and others fail quickly. Spend a couple dollars more and get the newer bulbs that have fewer, higher output emitters. They put out more light using less watts and I've haven't had one fail yet. For instance, the light output and overall quality of these are amazing (600 lumens) for 2 watts of power draw. Two color temperatures are available if you prefer a warmer, yellower light, but I find 4,000k perfect for reading. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9D2VQ6/ref=psdc_11439433011_t2_B01H1S5512 They even sell 3 watt (800 lumen) bulbs like these, but I think that's overkill. Chip

Here's a 60a 48-12v one that goes up to 56v. They claim up to a 95% conversion efficiency. https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Voltage-Converter-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B07QVJNQF2/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=power%2Bconverter%2Bdc-dc%2B48v-12v&qid=1575342138&sr=8-6&th=1 It's only $120 too. Chip

Yep, we sure were. Sorry to hear about John. Chip

I think common sense should rule the day, not fear. Yes, anywhere you go is dangerous; some more dangerous than others, but there are things you can do to minimize those dangers. I grew up in New Orleans, a very dangerous place. Heck 13 people were shot there this weekend. There are places there I wouldn't go there at night. Going during the day, especially with a group of people minimizes the risks. I'm wintering over in Los Indios, TX right now. Just last week 3 people were shot, not 2 miles from my RV park just across the border in MX, so yes even this, a relatively "safe" area can be dangerous. But will I let this discourage me from visiting Mexico? No. I will be crossing the border tomorrow, but I will be doing so during the day and with a group who make this trip all the time. Plus I will be choosing a "safer" border crossing. In this area, the locals say that the border crossing into Nuevo Progreso is considered the safest, so that's where we will be visiting. Would I wander through this Mexican border town alone and at night? Certainly not, but I'm sure there are places in Mexico where this is relatively safe to do so, just as they are here - and equally certain there are other places where it is not. I believe in doing whatever I can to minimize my risks wherever I am, as is prudent, but I won't allow unjustified fear to ruin my life. And the best way to eliminate fear is knowledge and planning. If I decided to take my RV deep into Mexico, it would be well planned and I would go with a caravan that has proven to do so safely many times, as I would be wary of corrupt police and authorities as much as MS-13, cartels or random bad guys. I would definitely learn from the experience of others, like Telcoman who I trust, having done so safely for many years, before hazarding to venture out on my own. But isn't that just common sense? Chip

To solve the problem of the large amperage draw of the slide motor I decided to just go with 2 battery banks. I have 620 watts of solar charging a couple GC-2s for my 12v needs. I mounted these panels on the side of my MH leaving the entire roof free for racking 9, 320w solar panels front to rear for my 48v system. This will charge a much larger 48v bank for my big inverter and 48v DC mini-split heat pump. Not only is this setup cheaper than a big 48-12v DC-DC inverter, but it provides additional energy storage as well as not suffering any inefficiency in the conversion process. Plus I have a small (600w) PSW 12v inverter that I use to power my entertainment center, computer and printer. It also serves as a back-up for minor 110v needs should the main 48v inverter go down. Also should the coach battery prove too weak to start my MH one day, these 2 GC-2 house batteries have enough starting amps to help start my coach. The coach manufacturer provided a dash mounted starter boost switch for this very purpose. I wouldn't lose this safety feature by eliminating my 12v house batteries. If I'm just using a limited amp (say 50 amp) DC-DC converter it may be powerful enough to work the slide, and start the generator, but not enough to start the engine in an emergency. Chip

That's a very clean install. You should be proud, as that is a very nice system. Congrats! On your photo hosting site, you stated that your roof air conditioners draw too much power to be run off of batteries. While this may be true for a typical roof mounted RV AC, there are RVers running high efficiency mini-split heat pumps off of large battery/solar systems. I plan on installing just such a system in a couple years. Here's a link to the kind of heat pump I'm talking about: http://www.geinnovations.net/solar-electricity-cost.html I am installing my solar system in 2 phases. The first, small phase was completed in July and consists of 620 watts of tilting solar panels mounted on the side of my MH charging two GC-2 batteries in series. This is being used to power my 12v appliances such as my slide, LED lights, evaporator fridge board and furnace blower (my biggest 12v power hog). I also have a small 600 watt PSW inverter I'm currently using to power my entertainment center and computer which were chosen for their outstanding energy efficiency. I mounted this on the side of my RV to save room on the roof for the second phase of my solar system. I'm planning on racking nine, 320 watt panels on my roof, in a straight line, covering it front to rear. This will charge a 48v battery bank which will do all of the "heavy lifting" powering both the aforementioned 48v, 12,000 btu mini-split and a 3kw inverter. There's one RVer I know who is running two mini-split heat pumps in his when boondocking off grid. Chip

I'm more like Linda and my DW is more like Barb. Imagine the fun time we have - sort of like the odd couple. She leaves everything out while I go behind her putting things up. I don't know if I got that from doing load plans in my Army days, or camping in an Aliner with a designated spot for everything. But I'd rather she leave them out than put them in the wrong place and forget where she put them - which happens more often than not when she attempts to puts things away. We try to find a happy medium, or at least detente. So far we've managed not to kill each other. Hope springs eternal. Chip

Yes I was just there last month. I boondocked near Natural Bridges with a great view of Bears Ears NM. I drove down the Moki Dugway to visit The Valley of the Gods. Unlike Monument Valley, it's free, which is why I skipped Monument Valley this trip and went to see Canyon De Chelly instead - also a must see, IMHO. The road is rather rough, through the Valley of the Gods, though was passable with my Chevy Cobalt which has low ground clearance. The Valley of the Gods road exits near Mexican Hat, which is also an interesting formation. BTW The Muley Point road at the top of the Moki Dugway has some beautiful vistas overlooking the Goosenecks and part of the Valley of the Gods. I saw a few RVs boondocking at various spots right at the rim, by Muley Point, and it reminded me of when we boondocked overlooking the N.Rim of the Grand Canyon a few months back. Both spots have million dollar views - and don't cost a penny. Chip

I'm currently fulltiming in a Class A motorhome with mine. During the day her cage is in the kitchen window, but she is free to fly around the motorhome as her wings are not clipped. During travel we set the cage in the floor of the slide, between 2 recliners for safety. If I had a trailer (like I had for many years with my first Sun Conure,) I'd travel with the bird caged in the tow vehicle, where the temperature is maintained. At night she sleeps in a hall closet (where some folks have their washer/dryer setup) with the door cracked for air and temperature control (both AC and heat.) Because she is free to roam the MH at will, we cover the backs of the driver and passenger chairs as well as the steering wheel to prevent chewing and poop from damaging these items, as parrots can be very destructive. We also travel with a little toy fox terrier. Other than being jealous of each other, each vying for our attention, they leave each other alone. I believe my sun conure, Skittles, thinks our dog is her pet too, as she tries to feed the dog daily, taking a few bites out of a pecan (her favorite treat) and then dropping it on the floor for the dog to eat. After all these years, I continue to be amazed at the intelligence of birds. Chip

The jacks are the first things to drag on my class A, which is an older gasser with a tag axle that I boondock with quite a bit. Gassers are a good bit lighter than diesels, which is a consideration when going through sand washes and such. The rest of the underbelly is out of the way. I did drag my rear bumper while boondocking on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, as I had to go through a little ditch to get into the campsite even though I did it on an angle. I don't think a class C with a long overhang would have made it. If you'd rather a C for boondocking try to look for one with a shorter overhang or one with the overhang cut up for more ground clearance, like an expedition vehicle. I've seen a few of these last month near Moab UT as they were having an expedition vehicle rally. They sound ideal for your purpose, with great ground clearance and AWD, so will go where I can only dream of going. You might want to attend a rally and talk to some owners first about their pros and cons. Even used, they are a little pricey though. Chip

I use a ready stop break-away system. It is simple, reliable and inexpensive. So far so good, but you should check the cables often for rusting as I have heard of them rusting through after several years of exposure to the elements. It is designed to complement the Ready Brake or Brute system. https://www.readybrake.com/store/p5/ReadyStop™_Towed_Vehicle_Emergency_Break_Away_Kit.html Chip

Yes. I agree. But these are two different things - one progressively applies the brakes on a toad to assist with braking and the other aggressively applies the toad's brakes if it separates from the toad vehicle. I believe the latter is required by law everywhere, as it should be. For years I used my under 3,000 lbs Chevrolet Cobalt as a tow vehicle to tow an Aliner that weighed around 1,700 lbs (over 1/2 the weight of the tow vehicle). In many states this light of a trailer would be exempt from a law requiring brakes, however considering the ratio of tow vehicle to towed weight I would have been foolish to tow it without electric brakes and a good proportional brake controller. Now I have a 22,000 lb MH with excellent ABS brakes on 6 braking wheels (the tag axle has brakes too) and am towing my little, under 3,000 lb Cobalt (that was my old tow vehicle) without brakes (other than a safety brake system that pulls a cable to activate its brakes in the unlikely event that the toad breaks free from the MH.) Again, I think it is the ratio of TV vs toad that is important. My toad is about 13% of the weight of the tow vehicle, not 58% as it was when I was previously towing with the car. Would progressive brakes on the toad stop the rig in less distance than not having them? Certainly, by a small amount - about the same as travelling empty as opposed to fully loaded. You can decide to either pay the $1,500 for a good progressive brake system on your toad or drive a little slower and leave a little more stopping distance between the car ahead. I'll choose the latter now that I'm retired and just seeing the sights with no hurry to get anywhere. If I'm doing 55 mph in a 65 mph zone just pass me if I'm too slow for you. If traffic is starting to back up then I'll courteously pull over and let them by. Now, If I were towing a 5,000 lb toad rather than a 2,900 lb one, or I had a significantly lighter TV, or one with marginal brakes or no braking tag axle, then my answer would be completely different. Chip

I just started fulltiming in a low mileage 1999 National Tropical (a gas model) the end of February, but we've already been through 12 states - wow. For comparison, it only has 275 hp and about 1/2 the torque of your cat. Sometimes it slows way down climbing steep grades at high elevations. I am in Utah now, boondocking by Capitol Reef NP. It was a bugger going over the mountains on UT Hwy 12 from Boulder (The Journey Through Time Scenic Byway) getting here, slowing to under 30mph in some places (pulling a toad up 8-10% grades at around 9,000 ft) as it was very twisty and we couldn't get a run at many of the steep inclines. But your turbo cat should do much better under these type of worst case scenario conditions. We chose a gas model because of expensive problems we have had with diesels (Ford) in the past. Though I don't think you will have many problems with a low mileage Cat. We love the build quality of our rig. Older Nationals are very sturdily built with great attention to detail and a high quality interior. Of course you will have things that just age out, despite the low mileage, like the water heater temperature/pressure valve that I replaced couple days ago. If your refrigeration unit and fridge board hasn't been replaced recently (ours had) I would expect to replace it soon, along with rubber parts like sway bar bushings, recaulking, etc. If you are handy repairing things as they break/age out then an older National might be a great value as it has "good bones" as they say. We got ours just under average blue book, but with only 28k miles and garage kept, it was in well above average condition, plus had lots of options, like dual pane windows, and the tag axle provided the load capacity needed needed for full-time use. Many motorhomes we looked at were unsuitable for full-timing because of insufficient carrying capacity alone. It was a good decision for us. In short, we're happy campers. Chip

I recently boondocked on both north and south rims - 14 days each for free. You can dump and take on water at the campground in the grand canyon for free. There's lots of free boondocking available around the Flagstaff/Williams area too, and absolutely drop dead gorgeous scenery. On the south rim I camped in my 36ft motorhome and toad on the Coconino Rim Road, about 2 miles from the rim overlook in the center of the park. On the north rim, my boondocking campsite overlooked the grand canyon itself. The view was unbelievable. It was a religious experience. I had few neighbors too, so enjoyed much more solitude and freedom than in a campground. Plus there was plenty of wildlife to view too, including herds of elk and even a solitary wolf (that's not supposed to be there.) I can't believe that these abundant resources aren't more utilized. Chip

Thanks for the props, $ Spot and the great information, Fro. This kind of real world experience is exactly what I was looking for. I'm sure it will help others here as well. Are you using 66" x 39" format panels, or some other size? Details, details, please. How much wattage do you have up there? What is your voltage going into your charge controller and what size, battery type and battery bank voltage do you have? Inquiring minds want to know! Pictures help. Chip

I am 11'9" now. This will add about 2 - 2 1/2" so I will still be under 12 ft. Here's a couple photos of my recent side mounted solar installation. Chip

Thanks for the suggestion of a linear actuator, Lou. I would have to choose another model though, as with only a 6 inch stroke my pivot point would need to be about 6 inches from the pivot. The force needed to lift a 78" long panel assy that weighs about 90 lbs total, at the center of gravity (39" from the pivot) is 90 lbs. Six inches from the hinge, the force on the actuator would be about 585 lbs. Since the actuators only lift 225 each (450 lbs of total force) they aren't quite powerful enough to do the job. Besides, I'm not too keen about applying 585 lbs of force (292.5 lbs on each side) directly on the end of the upper solar panel, as I'm sure it would break the glass from excessive force. By moving the pivot point closer to the center, the force is greatly diminished. Ideally, I'd like the lift attachment as close to the center of the panels (the center of gravity) as possible. If I could lift there, where the panel frames meet and the strength is doubled as not only is this a stronger lift point, but I'll only need 2 - 45 lb gas springs to lift the module. If I use the gas springs in my link with only 15.4" of lift, I'll have to settle with a mounting point about 15" from the hinge pivot point. At this point it would require about 234 lbs of force to lift the module. The pair of 80 lb gas springs would provide about 160 lbs of lift (68% of the force required) leaving me to lift 32% of the module's 45 lbs downward force at vertical at the end of the panel, or 14.2 lbs - a much more acceptable weight to lift over my head, even for an old fart like me. Besides, how can I be sure the linear actuator motors stay in sync and lift evenly on both sides. I'm afraid if one actuator motor spins a little faster than the other, or one side has a little more drag or binds, that it would twist the panel and the force could pop the glass. If there is a few lbs of lift difference in the gas springs that develops over time, I doubt that it would exert enough force to damage anything. Also I can get a pair of those gas springs for only $64 while a pair of linear actuators that could do the job, like these: https://www.amazon.com/Stroke-Linear-Actuator-Pounds-Maximum/dp/B00OGQQCDI would cost about $200 with mounting hardware and switch. I really like the idea of the module lifting itself, if I could only guarantee the actuators remain in sync while lifting and won't break anything. Reading the Q and As on the link, they don't recommend using them in tandem as a slight difference in speed is possible, justifying my fear of a broken panel. Chip

I just completed phase 1 of my 2 part solar project today. I purchased 2 - 310 watt Canadian Solar panels from N. Arizona Wind and Solar and instead of mounting them on top of the roof I decided to mount them on the passenger' side of the MH, about 6 inches behind the awning and at the same height so when both are flipped up the awning will not shade it. I mounted these 39" x 66" panels sideways one above the other so they take up 78 " when flat against the wall, over the bedroom window. As a bonus they provide a nice solar awning shading the bedroom window when extended. I just got finished installing them and wiring them up so I'm dusty, tired and bleeding from numerous wounds from all the sharp aluminum edges. I'll take some pics over the next couple days, as I'm on the move in the morning (my 14 day limit is up here at the Coconino National Forest by Flagstaff) so I had to complete the job relatively quickly. I decided on a side mount for 2 reasons. First so I could angle them into the sun to gain a little extra power, but mainly to free up my entire roof for the second phase of my system. I can fit 9 of these panels up there for phase 2, mounted flat and racked above the ac units with the first two sloping at a gentle 9 degrees, to ease the wind over the rest when I'm traveling down the road. the side mount makes it easier to clean too, so I'm apt to clean them more often. I used 4 rails of 1" square aluminum tubing attached to 2 large gate hinges up top to pivot the 2 panels in phase 1. I also added a 1 1/2" aluminum angle brace at the bottom to prevent twisting when erecting them and taking them down. I used heavy 2 gate latches with sliding pins to secure them in place when traveling. The only thing I still need to do is add a pair of gas springs to help me lift them. I am looking at these: https://www.autozone.com/collision-body-parts-and-hardware/universal-lift-support/mighty-lift-lift-support/334504_0_0 They will make it a little easier lifting them and holding them in the precise position while my DW slides in the support bolts and wingnuts. The panels weigh 40 lbs each. With the 4 aluminum bars and mounting hardware I'm looking at about 90 lbs total weight for the module. Of course with one end pivoting, I'm only lifting 45 lbs when near horizontal, which I am doing with a pole. Still I'm getting older and it won't be long when the pole itself might be a struggle for me to lift. Gotta think of the future, you know. Chip

I was reading my Generac manual the other day and I remember seeing that it had a 2,000 hr (or 3 yr) warranty, so it's curious that someone is recommending them be rebuilt before they are even out of warranty. Maybe different models have different levels of durability. Mine is a Q-55G. It has about 1450 hrs but it still starts runs great, other than having to manually choke it. Chip

Good info. I never get a receipt, but after hearing that story I will from now on. Don't you have to swipe your card for the pump to work? I didn't think you could get away with pumping gas and not paying since they authorize your card first, before you pump. Maybe thieves know something I don't. I haven't seen a gas station that lets you fill-up and pay afterward in a long time. I'll tell you what I have started to see since traveling in California that was not a practice 16 years ago when I lived there. Many if not most gas stations charge 10 cents more per gallon for credit card purchases. Their sign out front has one price per gallon (the cash price) while the pump rings up 10 cents a gallon higher when you put in your card. I didn't think they could legally do that. Chip

Thanks for all your replies! I have another card, a credit only card, but I only use it in emergencies - like when the bank suspects fraud seeing charges in different states and turns my debit card off (this happened to me a couple times, even though I went into my bank and explained to them exactly what I was doing before I started my full-time lifestyle.) A phone call gets it reactivated but this usually takes a couple hours. I prefer to use my debit card linked to my checking account. I have another debit card with another bank, but have depleted all the money from this account as my paycheck is no longer direct deposited into it (I have 3 monthly direct deposits into another account, but no more paychecks since retirement.) I've found that most gas stations block a second transaction from the same card (swiped at the pump), saying the transaction is denied. I guess I'll go inside from now on and do as some of you suggest. I didn't realize that there was a difference between activating the pump from inside the store, or outside at the pump. I can always use the walk anyway after driving for a few hours. Chip

I've only been full-timing since February, but I've run into a problem when I pay at the gas pump with my credit/debit card. The station limits how much gas I can pump into my RV to either $100 or sometimes only $75 before it shuts off. With gas prices well over $4 a gallon where I'm at now in California, this only buys about 1/2 a tank of gas in my motorhome. What does everyone here do to get around this problem? Carry lots of cash? Thanks for your help! Chip

I just did a little trig and the angle of the 40" wide solar panel will only be at 17.5 degrees, a gentle slope indeed. It might also improve solar efficiency slightly if the rv is pointed south. It certainly wouldn't hinger it even at a random angle to the sun, cause you never know which way you might have to orient your rig. I could even mount both the first 2 panels on the same gentle angle of 8.63 degrees to ease the airflow over the others, leaving the other 6 panels for the 48v system flat at 13" off the roof. Decisions, decisions..... Chip