RV_

Short answer: Yep their walled garden so to speak, like Apple. However I read they can also be flashed to use the Google Play store.

OK I'm typing on this Fire 11 Max now with a USB A female to USB C adapter and have the Logitech Unifying receiver in that is paired with my Logitech M310 mouse and my Logitech K400+ keyboard with built in touchpad so a mouse is unnecessary. But I prefer the mouse anyway. It is slim and feels very well made if sliperyIt is much faster than the two Fire HD8+ we have. And it handles more than one tab open fine. The screen is phenomenal with better than full HD resolution. I Iike the format and size but no good cases are available yet for under $20. I don't like Folios that expose the sides and/or corners in a drop. I much prefer the kids case with two flip out foam stands that I have on my Fire 8HD+. But they are not making those yet for this new tablet. It is no match for my Windows 10 Surface Pro and surface Go2 tablets in speed or ease of use for a primary Windows user. I as my eyes get older I like bigger fonts to read my Kindle books in bed and watch Sling TV Blue for 24 hour cable news. More later as I get more familiar and get a case for it. I already have the Microsoft pens for my Surface devices so no pens or keyboard cases for it ever it is just for consumption. But I wanted to make sure I could use my KBs and mice with it and it works fine with them. Picture to follow as I have my phone connected to my Windows computer.

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Linda, Perzactly! 💯👍

BTW Jay your topic got me to thinking and two people here love to be king of the hill, (and I am not talking about Kirk since I just criticized a post of his.) So I actually blocked my first two people here. I have advised others to do so for folks they complain about. I want to thank you because these forums have become fun again for me as I blocked two rude people and may a third. This is not a complaint - merely feedback that after a month with just two people blocked my experience here without their posts has been a lot more fun and so much less stressful. I had never blocked anyone before.

It looks like you are not concerned when you give bad info or interpretations. I thought you said you were staying off the forums because as you recently posted in the thread "Where is Kirk?" that as a moderator, participation in the forums you moderate or admin causes problems. People are always polite and kind when things go their way. Character can be seen only when things go wrong, or they are corrected on bad info. Participation can make for these kinds of posts and responses. I mean no offense but, respectfully, that was another snarky response because your post only used what you wanted it to say - confirmation bias, and you were called on it. I have found that these forums are much more pleasant since I blocked a couple of members. I peeked once and it confirmed my choice to block. The egocentric two I blocked. Might need a third as well. I would have thanked Blues for pointing out what I missed. If good info was my goal, and camaraderie here was the my intent. But then again I am just a member here on these decreasingly active forums.

Thanks!

Vlad don't you also "think that high speed internet is WORTH destroying the night sky for high speed internet" by operating two of these evil systems?

The disappearing night sky is not just from Satellites and space stations anymore. A lot is from the ground in addition from LED blue lights - it's a two way street: Excerpt: "In recent years, cities, towns and small communities across the world have taken part in a radical revolution — of our light-bulbs. Traditional orange-tinged high-pressure sodium bulbs are being swapped for more energy-efficient, whiter and brighter LED (light-emitting diode) lights. But the rise of LEDs is also illuminating new problems for our night sky, as well as our health. Over the past decade, scientists found, the night sky has become nearly 10 percent brighter each year because of artificial lights, mainly LEDs emitting too much glare. Streetlights are part of the problem, as are sources such as illuminated billboards and stadium lights. Those same outdoor lights are also affecting our health. Common types of LED lights contain higher proportions of bluer wavelengths, which can affect people’s nighttime patterns. They disrupt our circadian rhythms, lower the performance of our immune systems and increase the occurrence of certain diseases, including cancer. “People need to understand LED lights are being installed everywhere, not just streetlights, but they’re blasting up in all directions,” said Jim White, senior energy efficiency engineer with the Chelan County Public Utility District who helped with the county’s LED transition. But he added, “It’s one form of pollution that we could solve.” Agencies and organizations such as the National Park Service and the American Medical Association have recommended ways to reduce light pollution and its harmful effects on life. The changes begin with what type of LED light to buy in the first place. Shedding light on the issue The concern has come to light in recent years with the emergence of new LED technology. LED lights are the Olympic marathon runners of light bulbs: They consume up to 90 percent less energy and can last up to 25 times longer than traditional incandescent lights. As the most energy-efficient bulb on the market, it’s no surprise that so many people are adopting the technology. The Energy Department estimated LEDs made up about 19 percent of all lighting installations in 2017, saving about 1 percent of total energy consumed in the United States. By 2035, the lights are expected to comprise 84 percent of lighting installations. Roadways, parking, building exteriors and area lights — which are applications typically high in lumens, a measure of brightness — are expected to see nearly full conversion to LED lights by 2035. White was excited to have Chelan County, located in the middle of the state with a population of about 80,000 people, be part of the LED light revolution. Starting in 2014, the Chelan County Public Utility District began meeting with local governments, communities and agencies to discuss what it would take to replace their streetlights. In 2018, it embarked on a $1.9 million project, partially funded by a state grant from the Washington State Department of Commerce, to replace nearly 3,700 high-pressure sodium streetlights (about 60 percent of their outdoor street and area lights) with LEDs. The energy savings were discernible. After the transition, the new lights conserved 2,612,491 kilowatt-hours – enough to power about 120 all-electric homes in the county for a year. But there were downsides, too: Researchers with the National Park Service found the LED lights washed out more of the stars, particularly near the horizon. “You can tell the lighting gets bigger, so it extends higher into the sky … the entire sky got brighter,” said Li-Wei Hung, an astronomer with the National Park Service who published a study on the LED transition in Chelan County. “Just a few years ago, this [was] really new knowledge for us. Does the change to LEDs really decrease the light pollution or increase it? We [didn’t] exactly know." Camera data showed the sky over local Burch Mountain was 60 percent brighter after the county completed the switch in 2019 compared with 2018. The new artificial light stood at 3.69 times the natural light level after the transition; before the transition, artificial lights generated 2.30 times the natural light. White said the increased pollution was “a total surprise” because the Public Utility District had tried to direct lights toward the ground, but the light still scattered. Detailed nightglow data from individual cities is hard to come by, making the transition in Chelan County an important case study in understanding both the good and bad effects of LED lights. Yet observations and anecdotes indicate Chelan County is not alone. From 2011 to 2022, reports from citizen scientists indicated the average night sky got brighter by 9.6 percent each year, which researchers attribute to LED light replacements. Some cities, such as D.C., paused a transition to LEDs after residents complained about the bright lights disrupting their sleep. This graphic shows an annotated photo taken from aboard the International Space Station at night. The view is from above Baltimore and D.C. at night. This vantage shows us the difference between the bluer LED light present in Baltimore's metro area compared to the more amber colors in D.C.'s metro area. This is from the cities' respective rollout of LED lights from newer LED bulbs (Baltimore) to older amber-colored bulbs (D.C.). The bluer LED lights clearly outline Baltimore’s metro area when viewed from the ISS" Source with much more: https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/interactive/2023/glaring-problem-how-led-lights-worsen-light-pollution/

I hope all our full time friends here have a good parking place for the local fireworks and until the weekender holiday traffic subsides.

Linux guys, any answers? Ray sorry I have not done that yet. I would start from scratch and then load Mint with Cinnamon. If there is a trick to switching Linux versions I don't know it. However bear in mind the speed increase may have been due to switching to an SSD. Windows 10 would have been faster on an SSD as well. Ray no one will see it here in another topic. Why not post it in its own thread and then the Linux guys can see it and help?

John that makes sense. Have a great 4th John. Safe Travels!

Me too. One hand in my pocket 😉

John Sokol says about the 50-30 amp adapter that you asked about was fine without it. Where he suggested additional protection is with 50-15 amp adapter with multiple appliances plugged into that. "However, the 30-amp main circuit breaker in your RV should be able to limit the current flow in the shore power cord to 30-amps and prevent overheating and a possible fire. So while it’s technically a code violation, it’s probably safe for your RV shore power cord." He showed a pic of a 50 amp to multiple 15 amp outlets adapter. Then he goes on to talk about folks with multiple SloCookers and grills etc all plugged into it in your link: https://rvelectricity.substack.com/p/a-safer-50-amp-to-20-amp-adapter?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email If I had any 15 amp appliance to plug in I sure would not disconnect my rig's 50 amp to power 15 amp stuff. That is what the two 15 amp outlets are for. I test them too. And would use them with appliances if needed and we carried good extension cords, 2 each. and we had two 15 amp GFCI outlets on the curb side of the rig as well. In fact we never used that 30 amp to 15 amp adapter for any loads only for testing the outlets. I could see that kind of overloads for part timers just out with 12 family members for a holiday and another loaded group with them next site over. But we were just us two and when full-time we used the propane grill and the RV stove inside and the microwave. If we used the SloCooker outside we used a heavy duty extension cord. When my wife did new home construction and flipped houses she had a 75' extension contractor's grade cord that was so thick that it weighed too much to carry long distances. Thanks John I learned a lot here.

John, I had no idea so wanted to ask what you meant. You aren't boring John, to anyone. I had never heard of having over-current protection in a dog bone adapter, but also never looked. Thanks for your patience and willingness to share without rancor. 😊

The afterburner is published twice a year for USAF Retired personnel. I will post them here when published. It is DOD so applies to all branches of retired personnel most of the time, as does the AFSA info I post twice a week when it comes out. https://www.retirees.af.mil/Portals/53/documents/AFTERBURNER-CURRENT/Afterburner Vol 1 2023.pdf

Thanks Bill. If we take a trip I'll get an AT&T prepaid just for the trip to augment our two US Mobile MVNO Verizon tower serviced phones.

Kirk, even the best of us can make a mistake. But try to find an unlicensed electrician who has insurance for his work and is bonded for electrical work. Most states let you work on your own home without being licensed, and lots of AG and other exemptions. But I do not want farm buildings to burn down either when we have cows and goats on the property and a barn. I choose to have insured and licensed. Unlicensed electricians in most states cannot be insured. Excerpt: Texas for example: "media.inquiries@tdlr.texas.gov. ELECTRICIANS CONSUMER PROTECTION Don’t ever use the services of an unlicensed electrician – your safety depends on it! Anyone who offers to provide electrical contracting services in Texas must be licensed by TDLR and they must use TDLR-licensed electricians to perform the work. Licensed electrical contractors must either hold a license as a master electrician or employ a master. They are required to carry insurance, which protects you as a consumer on completed jobs. It’s important to hire a licensed electrical contractor because: ● they have passed examinations covering the National Electrical codes; ● they have been educated on Texas laws and rules; ● they have undergone criminal background checks; and, ● they have insurance to cover any damages that might happen when the job is completed. BEFORE HIRING SOMEONE: ● Get bids: You should always get more than one bid before deciding who to hire. ● The bid should include their Texas electrical contractor license number (TECL 12345) and the department’s contact information on the bid proposal. ● Make sure you have time to confirm that the electrical contractor’s license, and the license of the associated master, are current and in good standing on our TDLR website. Go here (https://www.tdlr.texas.gov/ LicenseSearch/) to do that. ● Look at the truck: the TECL (Texas Electrician Contractor) license number should be visible. ● Look at the license they carry in their wallet: a journeyman or master electrician can perform work alone. An apprentice electrician requires the onsite supervision of a more qualified licensee, such as a journeyman or a master electrician. ● Confirm that the license is real by checking our website: https://www.tdlr.texas.gov/LicenseSearch/. ● Before signing the contract for work: Ask for references from people they’ve performed work for and follow up by checking those references. ● Payment: Don’t pay for a job in full before the job is completed. That includes any permits that should be closed out with a final inspection. Report unlicensed activity here: https://www.tdlr.texas.gov/complaints/. WHAT QUESTIONS SHOULD I ASK WHEN I’M HIRING AN ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR? ● Are you licensed and certified? (Be sure to look at their license) ● Do you have general liability and worker’s compensation insurance? How much do you have? (Be sure to look at the certificate) ● What’s the address of your physical office? (Be sure to check whether it’s legitimate) ● Do you have references I can contact? (Be sure to talk with them) TDLR AAG FORM-201 Aug. 2020 TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF LICENSING & REGULATION" Source: https://www.tdlr.texas.gov/media/pdf/Consumer Protection Electricians.pdf Excerpt: "Problems with Homeowner’s Insurance Your insurance provider may refuse to compensate for any damage resulting from unlawful electrical work. If a fire started from unpermitted work, the insurance adjuster could deny a claim outright." Source: https://homeinspectioninsider.com/electrical-work-without-permit/ A licensed electrician can make mistakes, but my opinion is they are less likely than DYI unlicensed electrical wannabes. If someone is not licensed and insured when I decide I am hiring out a job, no one steps in to do an estimate without showing me current license and insurance. It is no longer a money thing for us but who offers the most experience with my job type for the buck with licensing and insurance. Online or off if someone can't do their own work unlicensed on their own property legally I strongly urge my friends and folks we built steel buildings for to use only licensed insured tradesmen and women. But that is only my opinion and YMMV!

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YW! John any comment on the 50 amp outlet I have? I'd like your opinion.It has interesting materials for the contacts. NEMA 14-50R Outlet I never checked if that dog bone has overcurrent protection John. I would buy one of the testers with surge protection for <$50 if I was worried about that. $29 combined surge protector and outlet tester However, do you have a link to one so I can see specs and what one costs? My thinking is I have circuit breakers before it in the pedestal and after it and in my rig's main breakers. This question is for the currently active RVrs and I was quite frankly surprised had one of those "Why didn't they have these 27 years ago when we started fulltiming?" slap my forehead moments. Thanks in advance.😊

Hi Stephanie. Welcome to the SKP forums. Sorry that happened to you. I am sure someone has lawyer experience on RV claims with Progressive will come along. Just keep checking back. Good group here.

Dutch good point, they can do that too. I saw that too when I looked for the link to outlet testers. 30 amp traveling RVrs might want to carry a 50 amp adapter for folks who are traveling full time or travel in their RV a lot. If the pedestal tests out good then any issues are the dog bone, shore power cable, or inside the RV. I tried to find a 30 amp outlet tester back in 1997, none available so I adapted. A few years later our rig was 50 Amp. No 50 amp outlet testers then either so I used my 15/20amp tester as above and could not find the 50 and 30 amp RV outlet testers when we were full time 1997-2003. I have found about five or six badly/dangerously wired RV pedestals over the years. Whether 50 or 30 amp RV, I would also still carry a 15/20 amp outlet tester to test the 15/20 Amp outlets at the pedestal too if I used them routinely, not just the 50 amp outlet tester. And the outlets inside the RV if troubleshooting them.

Denny and PP, good advice to periodically check the neutrals for tightness.I did check the neutrals first and that is how we found it. However 50 amp service, if miswired at the source, can potentially overload the neutral. So long as it's correctly wired to 220v, the neutral carries only the DIFFERENCE between the two hot wire currents. If the source outlet has both 50 amp sources at just 110v, the neutral will carry the SUM of the two hot wire currents. No outlet should be wired at 50 amp /110-120v but you hear occasional accounts of people who've encountered a "cheater" 50 amp plug. That's why I won't plug in an RV shore power plug without testing the outlet for safe wiring. It is a good practice to check them for tightness. We had one park that had GFCI at the pedestal that just kept tripping immediately. We found another site that worked. I guess the installer got some wrong!

I am a JOAT too ( Jack of all trades), experience just makes me able to know where to look it up to do/fix it. I had the 50 Amp circuit in my garage installed for me because I did not want to pull new thicker grounds across the house and basement and doing the newer larger 200 Amp breaker box and all the wiring was just too much because while I could take a week to do it and likely survive and get it right, the power to the house had to be off. So getting it all done in a day by the licensed electrician was worth the extra. And even if I did do it ten years before once, I keep saying here I am not a Sparky but muddle through the easy stuff myself. YouTube is my friend! I can't remember my resistor color codes from 1972-1974 doing the Basic electronics course. The pro who does it every day can do it much faster with no major mistakes. Folks arguing online? There is a difference between opinions and facts. 🤫

Payroll, I had no idea about the extension cord prejudice. Thanks for the heads up on expecting that. For 30 amp pedestal wiring check for my 30 Amp first 5th wheel (fiver) I used a 30 amp male to 15/20Amp female adapter like this: which costs $9.99 at Harbor Freight: 30 Amp male to 15 Amp female adapter link to order Then I just plugged in a regular 15/20 Amp outlet tester with GFCI check like this: for $8.99 at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-Tester-Receptacle-Indications-Electric/dp/B071FVB35Q/ref=sr_1_24?crid=3H81PSL1J0R72&keywords=15+amp+outlet+tester&qid=1688155722&s=automotive&sprefix=15+amp+outlet+tester%2Cautomotive%2C127&sr=1-24 Now they have a GFCI checker one for the same price: GFCI outlte checker at Amazon for $8.99 : https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-Tester-Receptacle-Indications-Electric/dp/B071FVB35Q/ref=sr_1_24?crid=3H81PSL1J0R72&keywords=15+amp+outlet+tester&qid=1688155722&s=automotive&sprefix=15+amp+outlet+tester%2Cautomotive%2C127&sr=1-24 Because some RV parks have only 50 Amp outlets I also carried a 50 Amp male to 30 Amp female adapter to plug my RV into 50 Amp outlets like this: 50-30Amp $10.99 at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/EPICORD-Dogbone-Adapter-Electrical-Converter/dp/B07RKR4JGF/ref=asc_df_B07RKR4JGF?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80607998235731&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584207580748105&psc=1 So before plugging my 30 amp RV into that adapter I plugged the 50 amp to 30 Amp female adapter to the pedestal, then the 30 Amp male to 15 amp female adapter pictured above into it, and then the regular 15 amp outlet tester to that. However today you can test a 50 amp pedestal with just one outlet checker and no adapters before you plug into any 50 Amp outlet with this for $19.99 at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Dumble-Outlet-Tester-Plug-Receptacle/dp/B0B3LW9JC9/ref=asc_df_B0B3LW9JC9?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80882956862547&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482475734006&psc=1 So you can test any 50 Amp RV Outlet without doing a Rube Goldberg assembly like we have to do for 30 Amp RVs, and use the 50 Amp outlet tester on the pedestal directly. If the three left green lights light up and the last LED does not light green or red it is wired corectly at least. You don't need to be an electrical expert or Sparky GURU to test your pedestal nor learn how to use a volt-Ohm or multi-meter to test them. There are just 4 LEDs and the legend tells what each combination means, EZ PZ, and much cheaper than repairing damage to your RV electrical system or devices like computers and TVs onboard. So why test the pedestal outlets? Here is a pic of what happened to my second rig and we don't know which park or friends house this happened at. Here you see all the neutrals burnt in the RV inside circuit breaker box. I also had a friend who had an RV hookup in his garage that I plugged into and it caused my computer power center to catch fire. and damaged my A/C causing us to need to replace the whole A/C unit which I did myself. Safe Travels!