SuiteSuccess

17 hours ago, vacationer said:

Well thats not good its not singled so that was a waste of money lol

My 20 mile tow was $750.  Out on the road that or more.  

15 hours ago, bigredhdt said:

Where did you find another ecm?

Please see my reply in the thread you started.

Try sending for repair to circuitboardmedics.com.  $1500 + $50 return shipping up front.  They will open it up and repair if possible.  If not will refund everything except the $50 shipping and return to you.  Mine was not repairable and they contacted me and did exactly as promised, refunded and shipped back.  There are a couple of other places that do the same and even have repaired for sale but their reviews were mixed.  Also if all else fails call Nacarato Trucks Parts in Franklin KY or World Wide Equipment in Knoxville, TN.  Ask for Ryan in the service department and tell him I referred you (Carl).  World Wide had me one in less than a week.  Cost was around $2500 programmed with core.  BTW yours probably suffered same fate as mine.  Seal on back of ECM failed and water and oil got inside.

Neither Good Sams Roadside Assistance nor Coachnet will tow an HDT IF it is tandem.  They will tow a singled HDT.  Others will say they have been towed tandem but I spoke to higher ups in both companies and got the above information.  As Rick says, get it in writing, not just verbal.  That is from experience with Good Sams.

Update:  Problem solved after much needed and appreciated help from Chet.  Turns out I could get my truck specific schematics from Volvo eMedia for free.  The setup to give power to cigar lighter, cab, cb,  and door/dome lights involves the battery low voltage protection system and two relays.  Working together they shed load to make sure you can still start the truck.  In my case, the R44 which is an expensive, double coiled relay was bad but my friend, Chet, had one in his stash of old scavenged electrical parts.  HOWEVER, after replacing the relay, still had no power.  Turns out in dissecting the schematics a fuse 52 allowed power to one side of R21.  I had previously checked all my fuses inside and at battery so was stumped but when I re-examined panel I found F52 missing.  Apparently the dealership in trying to diagnose my ECM problems had removed it (why?) and not replaced it.  New 5amp fuse and everything back to normal.

Depends.  Usually around 15 mph if I recall and usually just enough time to get you off the interstate, maybe to next exit.  The whole concept is to keep from tearing up your engine.  If it can’t communicate it thinks worse case scenario.  Now low coolant sensor will shut you down completely in about 10 seconds.  If that pops up, get off the road immediately.

13 years ago I started the same search for the “perfect tow vehicle “.  Lots of advice and initially thought a Volvo 670 singled short was the answer.  As you can see, I ended up with a Volvo 780 with tandem axles and haven’t regretted that choice one bit.  It’s not a daily driver but have used it to go just about everywhere we needed in a pinch…groceries, restaurants, even medical clinic.  A very smart individual convinced me to stay tandem because I didn’t know the future of what my truck needs would be.  As many have said, choose what YOU feel will fit your needs now but be cognizant of future needs also.  It is likely as time goes on more and more HDTS are going to need to haul vehicles other than Smart cars.  You’re at risk of overloading axles if not carefully planned…consider that.  
I am registered in Tennessee as a MH…I think number 4 to do so.  My county had no clue how to do it and like most bureaucratic agencies said I couldn’t (cause they didn’t want to admit they didn’t know how).  After a lot of leg work, phone calls to Nashville, I walked in with a stack of papers and letters and asked to speak to my County Clerk personally not an underling.  She asked what I wanted, told her, offered the ream of documents.  She got that “deer in the headlights “ turned to one of the underlings without even looking at the papers and said “make this man happy.”  I am.  Finally when you register be sure it’s right the first time.  Number 3 before me got it wrong in Nashville and it was a mess to get re-registered as a Motorhome.  BTW, as I said, don’t count on DMV, County Vehicle Registration etc. to give a definitive answer.  My stack of papers had copies of federal and state statutes and memos to prove I could do what I wanted.

16 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

Thanks Rick

 

   I am rather tired. But I did learn a lot of information I will share with this group when we get settled down in Montana.

 

   I hope things go better for the rest of the trip 

Agreed.  My recent ECM troubles and present electrical problems have been “enlightening “ to say the least.  Thank heavens we have some very smart people that are willing to help when we have issues.  Please share what you learned.  I think the worst “sin” for any forum is for someone to ask a question then never respond if the information provided helped OR what the final solution was when solved.  We all learn that way.

BTW we have stayed at Fern Lake Campground in Paducah, KY.  It was nice and had a really good Mexican Restaurant across the street. Also stayed at Duck Creek in Paducah but it was in more run down section of town and had a big auto salvage right next door which made it unattractive l

I’m not going to help with any advice but will definitely sympathize with you.  When my ECM went out I got all kinds of funky codes and communication errors.  It took a shop with a computer and $6k to get it running.  I know that is depressing but as rickeieio says “We pay to play”.  BTW did you find a suitable campground for longer term?

2 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

      We may need towed to a campground with the fifthwheel. 43’ Teton.

      Our Volvo 610 may need to be towed to a shop for repairs.

 

    We have Coachnet. I have made contact with them. 

 

    If you have followed my truck repair situations over the last three months, this will explain some interesting things that can happen.

In my repairs to the Volvo, with a Cummins n14 in it, I hope what I have learned could help someone else in the future.

 

   After a lot of talking to truck repair people and a ecm rebuilder. I ordered a rebuilt ecm. Installed it and the truck started up and ran great for say 200 miles. Now in my truck issues that we have had over the last couple months in South Carolina, one thing we had to experience was algae in the fuel.  

   We got just about north of Atlanta and the truck had a miss, then a few more misses until we stop and changed the fuel filters.

  Did that several more times until north of Nashville Tn.       Finally had to stop and park. Fuel is not the issue. If the truck idles for 20 minutes, it runs fin for 30 minutes.

 

    So I had a shop mechanic discover the the ecm lower plug if pushed towards the engine , the engine would start missing. Got permission to stay by day at a shop where we were at.    I talked to the ecm rebuilder and had another one shipped to where I am sitting. I also ordered a Cummins wiring harness for the engine. That was a real episode in it self. Not sure if it is the ecm or the wiring harness. But decided to put both in.

   Harness did not show up till Friday , say 10:30 am.   I have it about 95 percent installed when I quit last night.

 

   When this situation is over and I have calmed down, I will explain what installing a new wiring harness on a Cummins n14 takes. So if you find yourself in the same situation, I hope I have given you so good information.

 

    If I cannot get the truck operating by noon or so , I will call Coachnet to be towed. We were told to be out of here by Sunday.

   Looking for a campground recommendation. At this time we are not picky. I believe Coachnet will find us a campground to be towed to. Or what ever we can find.

 

   Thanks greatly,    Vern

 

   We are about 5 miles north of the beltway,north of Nashville Tn.

    

Vern,

I’ve heard some good things about Grand Ole RV Resort in Goodlettsville.  Never stayed there ourselves.  Where are you staying now?  There is also a KOA near Goodlettsville.  Inside the beltway will be expensive.

39 minutes ago, Sculptor said:

Tried that last time I replaced the sensor with no luck. 

Got it.  Sorry you’re having issues.

1 hour ago, NeverEasy said:

Carl, Start at the socket, not the relay.

Pin 30 is 12 VDC supply on the socket.  Try this with the key on and off.   If 12 VDC is not there, it is a problem before the relay.  

I would think that the relay is there to only provide power when the key is on.  Therefore, the normally closed contact (87A) is not used.  

If there is 12DC there, put a 10 amp fuse in-line with a piece of electrical wire.  16 AWG is good enough.  With 12VDC on pin 30, touch pin 87 (the normally open contact) and see if your systems work.  If not, touch to pin 87A (normally closed) and see if that works.  

This test does not rely on ground on the relay but to be sure the relay is good, test for 12vdc on either 85 or 86 with the ignition switch on and off.  Ever which one has 12VDC is the trigger.  The other pin has to have ground to provide a path for current to ground when the trigger is applied.

Ok going back to truck tomorrow.  I used a 12 volt battery at home across A & C (which I think is 85,86) and got nothing.  No clicks and no energizing 30, 87, or 87a.  That makes me think the coil is bad.  Normally my cigar/12 volt power sockets are energized even with the truck turned off so I was thinking that this was a normally closed circuit between 30 and 87a and that since it was battery protection, as voltage dropped, something would trigger 85,86 to shed the 30/87a load which is the sockets, cb, dome and door lights.   Am I thinking wrong?  I can use the same battery and will put 12 volt on 30 and should measure it on 87a correct?  If my hypothesis is correct then energizing 85,86 should make that 12 volts disappear? So I can also energize 85,86 to test.  

Pins are lettered clockwise from red probe A,B,C,D, and E center.  Will be testing socket on fuse board tomorrow to see which positions are energized.

Think I’ve narrowed my search down to a bad relay.  Sent pictures to my “expert “ and awaiting his opinion.  Thanks to everyone’s help and lots of Google and YouTube seems the battery protection relay modulates power to cigar/12 volt sockets on dash and overhead, CB power studs, and dome/door lights…all things not working in my truck.  Took this and several relays home for testing.  It is a Volvo specific five pin relay and stands taller than the others and mine has a yellow sticker with part number.  It’s expensive at over $100 to replace, hence, waiting on second opinion.  This relay has lettered pins not the usual numbers (and typical proprietary goods) NO diagram on it.  I even peeled back the yellow sticker.  However, it looks like a typical five pin configuration with A (85?), B (30?), C (86?), D (87?), and E (87a?).  When I tested resistance across what I think is 85/86 got no reading.  My understanding is the coil and resistor should give between 50-150 ohms.  Additionally 30/87 and 30/87a both read 75 ohms while 87/87a read 142 ohms.  Not sure I understand that.  Would seem if it was “normally closed” in either 87/30 or 87a/30 there should be minimal to no resistance. Also the 87/87a reading points to both being close with some type of resistor in those circuits.  I’m not smart enough to figure this out so any help is appreciated.

This weekend took the truck and trailer on a few day trip to Crossville, TN for some maintenance work.  Had four new airbags put on and antifreeze hoses, reservoir, and liquid changed.  I use J&K Truck repair and have always been very pleased with their work and prices.  They called me a few hours after the truck was in the shop and wanted to show me something.  Apparently on the Volvos the ram air intake hose to the turbo and the lower radiator hose are in close proximity.  Somehow a rock had wedged between the hoses and rubbed both hoses paper thin in an area about the size of a half dollar.  Either hose could have given way.  The air hose would have just been power loss but the radiator hose would have been a catastrophe with immediate shut down.  May want to periodically crawl under the truck and look around…something I haven’t done in a couple of years.

Kevin,

I can reset all mine off of the steering wheel stalk under diagnostics IF they are inactive.  Are you not able to do that?  Should be described in your owners manual.

Thanks Dan. 

Chet was kind enough to send me several schematics. Unfortunately they aren’t for my truck. Fuses and relays don’t fit what’s on my panel legend. Anyone have schematics for 2006 Volvo VNL 780?  Specifically tracing no power to cigarette lighters and CB studs. Or if anyone knows where I can purchase would appreciate it.

Should mention Resource Guide Schematics are what Chet sent. I don’t have a relay 29 which is supposed to control power. 

This is my fuse panel legend. 

2 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

   There is no primer pump on a Cummins n14

Ok.  Sorry.  This ECM stuff is all new to me.

41 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

  Cummins n14 red top

 

  without touching the truck as in filling the fuel filters.

 Engine started up as it should.

 

   Ecm fault code is in active before I started the truck. 5 pm yesterday it was active 

Vern,

May not be helpful but make sure you don’t have an air leak at the primer pump/secondary fuel filter manifold. When they replaced my ECM they found a crack in mine. It’s probably been sucking small amounts of air for a while because now truck idles smoother and seems to run on the road smoother. BTW careful with who you send your ECM to for rebuild. I highly recommend Circuit Board Medics. They charge $1500 to rebuild plus return shipping. If they can’t rebuild will refund full amount minus shipping. They communicated with me and couldn’t rebuild mine. Refund was processed same day.  

2 hours ago, NeverEasy said:

Cal,

Check your email.  Sent 3 pdf files.  Will have to send the rest later.  I don't spend much time in the Gen 2 arena so I am not sure which files to send.  I have to run off to a truck repair shop to put my 2001 in for brakes and clutch.

They are large.  Might not make it through the mail servers

Chet

They are coming through. 

Thanks Chet and Rick. 

Anyone have access to a 2006 Volvo 780 electrical schematic?  I just got my truck out of the shop replacing ECM and reprogramming. Discovered I have no power to cigarette lighters or CB radio.  Checked fuse and it was good at panel. Also checked fuses at battery and they are good. Isn’t that power direct from battery?

13 hours ago, Big5er said:

I thought I was the king of tacky replies. 
You better be careful Rick, you might damage your reputation

Phil, 

I thought you were just honest to a fault.  Never tacky….well almost never.  🙄

7 hours ago, Canyonrider said:

SuiteSuccess 

Did you get Your ECM problem fixed?

There's a company in Canada that repairs electronics  XeModex 

There's a US group and  Canadian group. 

They have been great to deal with. There's a large group of us Duramax owners that have had bad TCMs that have been sending our modules to them.

Lifetime warranty  I dont know if thats for all repair. Mine couldn't be repaired, but I was reimbursed.

Thank you.  Yes, I’m up and running again.  My ECM also could not be repaired.  It had leaked water and oil into it and fried the board.  A known issue with the Volvo D12.  I had even replaced my harness years ago to help prevent it but the sealant had several gaps which had allowed the leak.  Don’t know how you could check for that without removing and inspecting every few years.