SuiteSuccess
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Posts posted by SuiteSuccess
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My recent travails with my 2006 Volvo D12 has me pondering. To rehash, luckily we were backing up to hitch at our storage facility when the truck coughed, sputtered and died. Threw all kinds of codes and J1939 communication errors and said check just about every control module at next stop. Next stop? I was dead in the water with no restart. Anyway turns out I have two issues: 1. Cracked primer/secondary fuel filter housing sucking air and 2. A dead ECM. Now to the pondering. The primer housing is fairly widely available. The ECM for older trucks very difficult to find and very expensive $3-4k if dealer buys it. Everything on back order and could be 3 days to 6 months. Rebuilt ones can be had for $1500 that you can get personally. Just need programming to your vin BY SHOP WITH COMPUTER and access to Volvo on line site where your parameters are stored. Don’t know if that’s same with Pacar orCummins. Now I’m not sure if that module has to be physically attached to the truck or just the computer software added by the dealer. I’m just wondering if investing some $$ in those hard to find parts on older vehicles might be good insurance? Pay to have pre programmed. May not get your money totally back with sell but I can imagine there is a market. If we had been on our trip several hundreds of miles away, the cost of getting the trailer and/or truck home would be many thousands of $$. Having to stay in an area for a long length of time waiting on parts would be problematic. Insurance is not for everyday frequent occurrences..it’s for catastrophes. Anyway, your thoughts? And if you agree, in what “spares” would you invest? Again just pondering.
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15 hours ago, rickeieio said:
Have you asked them? And, how much would you save by having it re-built v. buying from dealer? It might be easier and nearly same cost to just let shop di it all.
Rick,
Rebuild through Circuitboardmedics.com is $1500 with a ONE business day turnover. Dealer will have to reprogram once I get it back. Shipped off yesterday. I went up to dealer yesterday and they could only find one for my truck through their network and it was going to cost me just shy of $4000 with reprogramming. I hope this turns out ok. My research shows over 25k five star reviews for this shop and both Charlie Lord and I have talked on the phone with them and got pretty good vibes. Now their techs do all kinds of boards not just ECMs but I’m thinking if you know what you’re doing that education should apply across multiple circuits. We also found another site Goecm.com which sells remans or does repairs but really couldn’t find a whole lot about them. Oh BTW just about everything for an older truck is on “backorder” and dealer said it could be 6 weeks to 6months to get a part that is not in stock. Unfortunately we’re not first in line for those precious parts because we don’t make a living with them. That’s why it’s important to advocate for yourself.
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On 9/18/2021 at 9:20 PM, Parrformance said:
The used ECM worked, the oil pressure guage is working again. The Truck is no longer de-rated.
I am having a couple of new issues, engine fan speed error, and the two intake air heater codes.
I am hoping not an ECM issue but perhaps a wiring problem.
Tackle these tomorrow.
I recently replaced the engine fan solenoid and the short pigtail harness, so going to start there first.
I know older thread but any updates on issues? BTW sent you a p.m. Think we have sister trucks.
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Okay, progress report. Two major problems with truck. 1. Priming pump and secondary filter mount was cracked and sucking air. That is why truck would start, run a couple of seconds, then die. 2. ECM is dead. That is the source of the multiple error codes. Gonna be big $$ for this one. I have been researching rebuilders for the ECM and I can get mine rebuilt for $1500 from a company called Circuit Board Medics in Greenville, SC. There is also one in Texas and one in California. Don’t know if anyone has experience with any of these but I do know dealer has to re-program to your particular truck after rebuild or replacement. So I’m not sure how receptive they would be to not getting to replace it themselves? Any thoughts?
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13 hours ago, lappir said:
I didn't get to check today, but will call one person tomorrow if I'm not able to run there tonight.
Rod
Rod,
Thank you but I’ve located the part close to me. Going to get it shipped out today. Truly appreciate the help.
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Anyone ever used this place before? Feedback? They have my fairing piece.
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Did it also several years ago. As Michael said, wasn’t that difficult that I recall and all my friends will tell you I’m not very mechanical.
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45 minutes ago, lappir said:
I know where there are a couple older Volvo trucks. Won't be the same color, but I'll take a look at them and see what they have. Yours is a Gen 2 right? 2006 I see in your signature.
Rod
Yes Gen 2. Rod those panels come in two sizes 53” and 72”. Mine is the extended 72” panel. volvo part #824870084. Should be labeled on back side of panel.
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5 minutes ago, Steve from SoCal said:
The plastic is likely Metton or a similar type. They can be bonded but, the labor to do that would exceed the cost of a replacement? This stuff is not like car plastic that can be hot melt fused, you need bonding strips at the splice and the adhesive is over 200.00 a tube alone.
Ok thanks.
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11 minutes ago, runaway parents said:
Try Spalding's in Spokane. They say they have several of these trucks there.
Thanks
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Another question. I found the piece by the highway and it was scuffed, had several cracks, and a small section missing. Could a good paint and body shop plastic weld the cracks and fabricate a small piece to fill in the gap and plastic weld in place? Alternatively I can buy a new 53” piece and could a shop cut out a piece of my old, insert, and plastic weld to get desired length?
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11 minutes ago, Steve from SoCal said:
Thanks Steve. Close but it is only 52”. I need 65”. I appreciate the help. I’ll give them a call though and see if they have others.
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As my truck was being towed to shop the passenger side middle chassis tank fairing blew off and got destroyed. Looking for the piece shown by the arrow in the pic. It is 65” visible, 69” with piece that tucks behind front step. I’ve tried VanderHaag and others with no success yet. Any help?
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Thanks
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7 hours ago, craigjanelle said:
We've been having the same random shut down at various times, then starts right up & runs fine. After seeing your post & checking a few You Tube videos, this may just have solved my problem. I'll replace, both, the oil pressure sensor & crankcase pressure sensor. They are right next to each other & together under a $100. Thanks so much for posting your experience. You may have saved me quite a few nights sleep. Safe Travels, Craig.
If you have a Volvo engine, would you please post some pics of the locations of these sensors and also part numbers and where purchased? Would be helpful in future since my old Volvo is starting to become infected with gremlins.
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3 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:
Posting for Vern:Filters
Daryl. Didn’t link. Saying can’t find server. Could you please repost?
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1 hour ago, rickeieio said:
My logic:
1) Truck stumbled before dying. Classic sign of sucking air/lack of fuel.
2) Fuel filter low/empty. Was fuller at previous service. You found/repaired a bad check valve. Supports #1.
3) Several pumps of hand primer will get it to run a few seconds, Pump leaking fuel. Likely source of air in system.
4) Early in this process, you found information where a fuel problem caused the same codes you've seen.
Thus my recommendation to correct a known problem, (fuel primer), before moving on to more costly electrical parts.
Reasonable. Will see what happens.
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18 hours ago, rickeieio said:
Carl,
When they take the truck to the shop, PLEASE ask for a mechanic, not some snot nose "technician". Tell them how the truck stumbled before dying, and that the fuel filter level had dropped. Make sure they correct the fuel pump issue (leaking fuel and sucking air) before firing the money cannon at electrical components like are likely fine.
All those codes can be, and likely were, caused when the ECM saw a drop in fuel pressure and subsequent miss-fires as the injectors received air.
Rick,
I plan on following the tow truck over to the shop and hopefully can talk to the mechanic. Being my usual OCD self I have a spread sheet with all the codes I could pull and a second sheet with all the “fixes” I’ve/we’ve tried with the results of those tries. At $185/hr don’t need them repeating a lot.
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1 hour ago, Jaydrvr said:
There are hundreds of them on Amazon, or your local auto parts or farm supply will have them. Prices are from $10 to hundreds of dollars. I just used an old one I already had to polish my gas tank. Here's a representative one from Amazon. Biltek 12 Volt Fuel Oil Transfer Pump Diesel Kerosene Biodiesel 12V DC 10.5 gpm Pumps https://a.co/d/7QpHAQs Jay
P.S. Also, Harbor Freight has them, but you don't want one of the high volume ones for this project. Carter is probably the classic brand for old hot rodders.. Carter Universal Electric Fuel Pump Automotive Replacement 12V (P4070) https://a.co/d/atOueAO
Thanks Jay
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Would you be so kind as to list the model of 12 volt pump(s) you are using. This is a great idea.
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So you are just cycling the polished fuel back into the tank rather than out into diesel cans or jugs, am I correct?
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Rick, David. Thanks. Good information. This episode reminds me that cheap little gadgets can be very helpful and I thought my misfortune might help someone else to be ready in case they break down and can’t or don’t want to cage their brakes. Maybe someone can add a Pete adapter. When I built mine after seeing Charlie’s it was around $10. Hardest thing today was remembering where I put it. 😜
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At least on Volvo engines and I would assume on others there is an access port to use “shop air” (compressor) to fill the air tanks. Useful to check for leaks without truck running but in my case a lifesaver to get my brakes released without caging them so I can move truck out of storage stall to be towed from the rear. Was told this was cheaper tow rate than having to disconnect driveline or axle. I have actually seen videos where some tow trucks can hook their own supply to the port. This port is pre- air dryer so not huge risk of moisture although I have a water filter on my compressor. To build one find fittings for air conditioner lines and use the red high pressure fitting on the port (the blue low pressure will not work). Plumb for air hose connection and you are set. The pics show the connector and the location of the port on a Volvo engine. Note: Be sure and trace the hose back to your truck air compressor or to the air dryer to be cure it’s an air line! Cheap insurance if you need to be towed.
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3 minutes ago, runaway parents said:
Must be a week for breakdowns. Hope it's something simple. The rest of my parts should be here shortly shouldn't take too long To Get it fixed and back on the road. I feel pretty lucky that we didn't have to be towed back to wenatchee. Maybe I can send some good luck to you so here it goes good luck.😃
Thanks. I need some luck.
It's official
in HDT
Posted
Rod and others. Just a question. You said the shop was interested in your old truck if the price was right. Will salvagers give a reasonable price? And has anyone dealt with salvaging a vehicle?
BTW congrats on the new truck.