SuiteSuccess
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Posts posted by SuiteSuccess
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2006 Volvo VNL 780 with D12D motor. Air dryer part number is Wabco 4324210090. There are two parts to the air compressor discharge line that feeds to the air dryer itself. The first is metal which circles to the drivers side from the passenger side location of the compressor. The second piece is rubber (shrouded) hose from a compression fitting on the steel line and connects into the dryer. I need to find a part number for that hose if anyone has it.
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Tragic. That’s why driving should always be defensive not offensive in a truck or car. We’ve all encountered bonehead drivers of both.
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21 minutes ago, rickeieio said:
This is all for naught. You’re over gvwr already. Don’t throw bandaids at it.
Wonder how many don’t consider gvwr?
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RV length ?
in HDT
9 hours ago, rickeieio said:The distance measuring function in google maps is your friend.
👍👍
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Looks like we’re going to be able to make it this year. Nice to be able to see some old friends.
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11 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:
With your background, I would have thought you would have a proctologist or two as a buddy that you would have let you borrow one of those fancy, steerable scopes. 😁
Actually, I did a lot of scopes on both ends in my day. I would love to own a short Olympus scope and light source but don’t have an extra $5k laying around. Talk about the ability to get into some tight places for a look see.
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Got the scope and for the price works pretty well. A bit hard to maneuver in tight spaces and its semi-rigid design must be molded. For tight work really would need a controllable scope but they are going to be much more $$$.
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Around my neck of the woods dealer shop prices are $185/hr. I get a lot of work done at a local shop for fluid changes, air bags etc and they are $125/hr and do really good work. However, don’t do major engine work.
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12 hours ago, Chad Heiser said:
I haven't used that particular one, but I have a similar one I bought off Amazon back in 2017. It is a wireless connection to an app on my phone rather than a hard connection so if you have a different physical connection on a different phone, it still works. It creates a local wifi signal that you connect your phone to and then it sends the video to its app on your phone. I have been very happy with it and use it a half dozen times a year or so. Here is the link: https://a.co/d/1knGm18. I bought this case to keep it in and protect it when not in use: https://a.co/d/9gXoXS8. I figured I would give this one a shot because it was inexpensive with the idea of buying a better one some day. This one has worked well enough that I never got around to buying a better one.
Thanks Chad. Since these are Chinese, I’ll bet the scope itself is built by a single company with multiple name rebrands. Anyway I ordered it and will post a review after use.
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1 hour ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:
Are you still using an Iphone? That camera doesn't work with Android or Pixel phones.
I have iPhone.
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10 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:
Carl, are you going to be anywhere near me anytime soon? You can use mine.
Thanks, David, but I need something cheap just to have around for a couple of times per year. This just looked pretty good and has fairly good reviews.
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46 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:
Bought a scope at Walmart, while on the road. $15 or 20 out the door, 3' of probe, built in display. For what I paid, it's earned it's keep. I think it was Frog brand, or something like that. Toad, maybe. The one you linked is considerably longer, so if that's important, yours is probably better, otherwise, I'm cheap. Especially for a rare use tool.
In automotive section?
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Anyone ever used one of these and if so your impression? I’ve got to locate and fish a wire in a very tight place in my bass boat and have no other way to do it. Nobody around here rents bore scopes and I don’t want to spend a lot for occasional use.
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On 10/4/2023 at 2:30 PM, aknavy said:
Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of. I'm gonna put it off till we settle down for the winter and roll the dice.
The shop (or you) can sometimes silicone around the leak. I have a 2006 D12 and that’s what had been done to mine. It still leaked but the head mechanic at the Volvo dealership I use said he would continue to drive it until it started leaking more. I replaced it at the next PM which was a year later. It’s costly a couple of thousand I think. They do make a patch kit to help keep it from leaking into the ECM. Early this year I had to replace my ECM and when they opened the back it had water and oil in it but also the sealant around the back plate of the ECM was deteriorated, crumbling and had gaps. My thoughts are the original “leaking” harness was not the culprit just old sealant. In summary, you pay your money and take your chances but in all likelihood will be fine until you can replace it. What I would recommend is, if you are mechanically minded, remove your ECM and look at the sealant on the back and reseal if necessary. OTR performance has a video on YouTube titled “Volvo Truck/Replacing ECM on D12”. Doesn’t look like a hard job. Might want to review this thread for the repair kit
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On 9/28/2023 at 10:26 PM, Big5er said:
Do an internet search for the Texas Registration Manual, the Texas Title Manual and also the Texas Occupations Code, section 2301 and look at the definition of Motor Home.
The Registration Manual and the Title manual tell you what the DMV wants to register it, and how/what they will do. Section 2301 tells you what "it" must contain to be a MH.Naw not Big5er, lol. If my old man’s memory is correct it was “Gargoyle “! 😂(sorry only the old timers will get the inside joke).
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20 hours ago, Brad & Jacolyn said:
You will all be happy to know that I got dirty today and changed the suspension dump solenoid. Everything is working again. I did come to the conclusion (I forgot since the last time I changed one) that this would be an easier job if I did not have a bed on the truck.
👍
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7 hours ago, Brad & Jacolyn said:
Hi Carl,
That could probably be done by someone that knew what they were doing but since I don't I would not know if it was right or not (there are about 8 connections on the back of the switch). I have looked and I have 2 additional switches that have the same lock button but just a different picture on them. I'm guessing that they are the same but will have to wait until I get the switch pulled out to see the connectors.
Brad
Understandable. I rely on Chet or Randy to steer me when it comes to electrical issues.
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1 hour ago, Brad & Jacolyn said:
Had not thought of the switch. I think I have an old switch kicking around for another function that was not needed and removed when the dash was rearranged. It does not have to have the little button to prevent it being flipped accidentally just to do a test does it.
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Brad,
Could you not just pull your old switch and test with a multimeter to see if you’re getting current across the poles?
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Randy,
Not arguing but trying to learn. I thought the spring in the brake cannister was compressed by a diaphragm when air was applied. Absent that air compression the springs decompress applying the brake shoes. Have I got that wrong? It’s just not making sense to me that the emergency spring would not be applied at zero psi.
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4 hours ago, rickeieio said:
I noticed that the drums that were not in the shadow of a trailer or fender tended to rust/stick more. Having a bed on the truck helps. Having a commercial trailer that sits low relative to the tires helps. Parking under a roof really helps. I never tried draping a tarp over the wheels, but would imagine that would also help.
Having a DW that can crawl under the truck really helps, lol.
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15 minutes ago, lappir said:
I'm wondering if there is a different way to remove the "Roll Pin" that holds them in place. I did it many years ago on the Gold truck using a pin punch and a small hammer. Not sure if that caused the occasional leak I have noticed over the years since. It always stops with a bit of a wiggle of the knob.
Rod
I have one of these.
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16 hours ago, RandyA said:
I've encountered this problem more times than I care to count. It does not take a year for the brake shoes to freeze to the drums. It can happen in a much shorter period of time, depending on humidity and weather. My Volvo is singled and does not have a locker. When "at home," I park on a separate "Volvo-only" gravel driveway. So, when the brakes freeze, one generally will break loose easily while the other stays frozen. I dig a DEEP hole in the gravel until the tires finally hit more solid ground, and as Darrel said, you hear a loud bang and all free up on the stuck side. While it is not something you can do just anywhere, I now set the brakes, get out, and chock the rear wheels with 4x6 blocks. Once chocked I release the brakes and shut the truck down. I would never do this on an incline or where some foolhardy being would remove the chocks. They are too big and heavy to carry around with me anyway (four 4x6 pieces, each long enough to cross two tires - front and back of the rear tires - really overkill for what is needed). To make it easier to place them, I have a looped section of rope fastened to each end that I can grab with an extension pole and hook to pull in any direction.
Randy,
Don’t the brakes automatically apply (via springs) when the air pressure bleeds from your tanks? How do you keep that from happening?
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10 hours ago, rpsinc said:
Me too!
😳😳
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10 hours ago, Av8r3400 said:
Amen.
I carry some filters, air governor, some air line repair supplies and a modest (embarrassing by David's standard) tool kit...
Yeah, I’m kinda embarrassed to pull out my Kobalt, Husky, and Craftsman around him, especially when he pulls out his Louis Vuitton Snap-On tool box. But you know those Kenworth folks. 😀
Air Compressor to Air Dryer Hoses 2006 Volvo 780
in HDT
Posted
That was Rickeieio’s suggestion also but he’s kind of shady and didn’t know if I could trust him. 😂😂